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My first DIYs on my Skoda Octavia: Brake bleed & periodic maintenance

26th December 2023, 09:45 by Utkarsh Chaudhary

I couldn't raise the vehicle enough with those scissor jacks and I was getting scared to work under the car.

BHPian Driver 33 recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

I always wanted to work on my cars when I was younger, but I was always scared I would mess something up. I've messed up my bicycle quite a few times when I was a kid. I got some inspiration from watching Hollywood movies such as "Rush," "Ford VS Ferrari," where Ken Miles is a mechanic and also a race car driver, which is super cool to watch. I also found motivation from "Fast and Furious," where Paul Walker prepares the Skyline for race day himself. My regular service advisor, where I give all our cars for maintenance, told me to start getting my hands dirty, saying it's fun working on cars, and he offered to help in case I messed up something. That did give me some confidence and motivation to work on cars.

I started working on my cars doing generic maintenance in June 2023. It was a long process for me, but I believe in acquiring the right tools first and then starting working on the necessary job. The things I acquired first were a ½ ratchet and socket set by Stanley. Then, I ordered a few Torx bits because European cars are known for having a lot of Torx bits.

My First DIY

One of my car's brake fluid was completely contaminated, and I wanted to flush it myself. ChrisFix on YouTube is my first go-to DIY YouTuber, but jack stands were missing from my toolset. I ordered two pairs of Amazon Basics 2-ton jack stands, and the first lesson I taught myself was about safety when working on cars. I didn't have a trolley jack then, so I learned to lift the car on all four sides with a scissor jack and put jack stands in the respective areas.

Car on 4 jack stands – Success

The brake fluid on my Škoda Octavia had never been flushed in almost 6 years, and I decided to do it myself. I borrowed my friend's parking in his apartment, and I started working on my car. I opted to use ATE Dot 4 SL6 brake fluid. I called my other friend to pump the brake pedal so that the fluid could flush out.

Step 1

The car on 4 jack stands, wheels were removed and placed under the car for safety. I gave it a solid shake to check if everything was stable.

Step 2

I opened the brake fluid reservoir and emptied all the contaminated brake fluid into a bottle with the help of a 10 ml syringe. I put in new brake fluid, closed the lid, and went to the farthest wheel from the reservoir, which is the rear left of my car.

Step 3

I attached my thin pipe (which is usually available in a hardware shop) to the bleeding valve, routed it into a bottle, and cracked the bleeder valve open with a round-ended spanner. My friend kept pumping the brakes until I told him to stop. Around 6 to 10 pumps were enough for clean fluid to enter the brake lines. After each wheel brake calliper flush was done, I refilled new brake fluid in the reservoir and moved to the next farthest wheel, rear right now, did the same process and went to the front left and then front right wheel. It took me around 3 hours in total because it took time for me to open the wheels and keep the car on jack stands. I was using a scissor jack to raise the car, put the jack stand, and open the lug nuts. I was using the wrench given by Škoda.

Extremely contaminated brake fluid

Step 4

I told my friend to keep pumping the brakes, and I went around checking for leaks at all wheel bleeder valves and checked the master cylinder thoroughly.

Step 5

I put the wheels back, lowered the car onto the ground, and then went for a test drive to check if everything was performing well. The job was finished successfully, and all happy smiles for me. I treated myself to some shawarmas and went back home.

My Second DIY

Next, my car's periodic maintenance was nearing, and I wanted to perform this myself. Oil change on my Škoda Octavia at 1,16,000 km.

Engine oil change (opted to use Liquimoly Toptec 4100 along with
Liquimoly Ceratec
Oil filter (Opted to use Mahle)
Air filter (Opted to use Mann)
Cabin filter (Opted to use Dusseldorf)

I needed a few more tools, and I ordered them from the US as my uncle was coming. I needed a breaker bar and torque wrench, which are much cheaper in the US comparatively. I got myself a Tekton ½ torque wrench and ½ 24-inch breaker bar.

My new Tekton 1/2 torque wrench. Can tighten anywhere from 13.5nm to 203.5nm of torque

Step 1

The car's 4 jack stands and wheels were removed and placed under the car for safety, and I gave it a solid shake to check if everything was stable. I don't know why I removed the wheels, but I removed them and placed them under the car.

Step 2

Removing the engine guard, which has nearly 8 to 9 bolts and Torx bits.

Step 3

I got access to the engine sump, but the problem was I couldn't cross my hands underneath because I couldn't raise the vehicle enough with those scissor jacks, and I was getting scared to work under the car. I managed to crack the oil bolt loose and opened the drain plug. As there was no space at all to work underneath, I unknowingly dropped my ratchet in the drain pan. I thought I placed it on the ground, but it fell into the drain pan. I managed to take it out and clean it with brake cleaner, and I continued putting back on the new drain bolt and torqued it down to 30 nm.

Step 4

The oil filter on this car is in a tricky place. It's located near the radiator and in between all the coolant pipes. I opened the oil filter, and when I was pulling it down, the oil started coming onto my watch. I was worried about the Gshock, and I started to remove it with my other hand, but the worst took place. The oil pan was right underneath the oil filter, and my hand was above. My other hand was greasy as well, and the watch slipped into the oil pan. It was a messy job. I didn't care about the watch; all I wanted was my car to be serviced well at that moment. I've replaced the filter with new O-rings and lubed it up. After refitting the new oil filter and tightening it to 25nm I took out my watch from the drain pan, and it was a complete mess. It's working, but the oil is in all the edges. I sprayed some brake cleaner and left it aside.

Step 5

Filled engine oil and Ceratec in the vehicle. My car takes about 5L engine oil.

Step 6

Replaced the air filter, which is held inside Torx bolts, and it was an easy replacement.

Step 7

Pulled out the dashboard and got access to the cabin filter. It has simple pull-out tabs, and I replaced it as well.

Step 8

Started the car and let it run for a while. I switched it off and then checked for leaks and engine oil level. Everything was good.

Step 9

Put the undertray, and I lowered the car onto the ground and went for a test drive. The car was much smoother on this LiquiMoly top tec 4100 combined with Ceratec. The next day I went to my usual garage, and I got the oil light reset, I didn't fit the underbody pan properly; they did it for me.

This was my experience changing engine oil and filters for the first time, which took me around 5.5 hours. Throughout the time I was under the car I was scared, the lighting was poor in my friend's parking and I struggled to put the underbody pan back.

I've recently done it again with more convenient tools such as a trolley jack, through which I lifted my car higher and had much more room to work underneath. BHPian viXit was also there to help, and we did the job in just 1.5 hours. Also, I discovered that I could reset the oil change interval through the cluster itself. I did the oil change first time alone and couldn't click pictures because of my oily hands. It was easy to put the underbody pan back 2nd time for me as I had experience and this time I also raised the car to a higher height with the help of a trolley jack.

Here are a few pictures of when I replaced the oil for the second time at 1,26,000 km.