How & why I adjusted the idle rpm of my fuel-injected Yamaha FZ 25

The problem persisted even after getting the throttle body cleaned at the service centre.

BHPian Samba recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Got the 5th year service done at 8,500 km

Due to less running, my bike's battery gave up in Jan this year. But luckily it was just under 23 months, so got a new replacement battery for free from Amaron.

From the last one month, I was observing that while riding in traffic, whenever the bike comes to the idling rpm it was stalling.

As the servicing was due, I took the bike for the 5th year service.

• At the Yamaha service center, they heard about my complaint and said it requires a throttle body cleaning. I gave them the go-ahead. They cleaned it.
• The Spark Plug and the air filter looked fine. So instead of replacing they just cleaned, and put them back.
• The old engine oil was drained and new Yamalube 10W40 (full synthetic) was poured in and the oil filter was replaced.
• The chain was cleaned and lubed.
• They took a test ride and informed me, that the problem is solved.

Total bill came to Rs 2,570.

While returning, I again found the bike to be stalling whenever the rpm came down to idle. I called up the service center guys, and they told me the FI needs to be cleaned.

What I noticed was, this was happening only when the engine is warm, & when the engine is warm the idling rpm was coming down to 1000, which should be at least 1250+.

In my earlier KarizmaR which had a carb, I used to tune the carb myself and adjust the idling rpm, but with this FI engine, I was not very sure how to proceed about it.

So, I did some research myself and interacted with some very helpful guys in the pan India Yamaha FZ25 WhatsApp group. They directed me to follow the owner's manual and do it step by step.

This video on YouTube was very helpful too.

With the help of a number 8 Socket, I opened the front seat.

The left side panel was removed by opening a few screws and plastic clips.

The idling adjusting screw is located inside the marked area.

I rotated the screw anticlockwise and increased the Idling by 1 bar (1 bar = 250 rpm) while the engine was warm. This needs to be done on a warm engine, as while starting a cold engine, the rpm automatically goes up by a bar.

After increasing the rpm, I rode the bike for some 15 km, and it looks like the problem got resolved. Earlier the engine was stalling every time it was going down to the Idling rpm. If the problem returns, then will get the FI checked once. While riding there is absolutely no knocking or hiccups while accelerating or decelerating. The bike rides as smooth as new.

My 5.5-year-old bike with only 8,500 km on its odo!

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