The Slavia's segment rivals include the Honda City, Maruti Suzuki Ciaz and the Hyundai Verna.

Skoda recently revealed its latest mid-size sedan, the Slavia, for the Indian market. While pre-bookings are now open, the car will go on sale early next year. The carmaker has even set ambitious targets for the new sedan.

Zac Hollis, Skoda's brand director has stated that the company aims to sell 2,500-3,000 units per month in the long term. This means, the company clearly has the segment leader Honda City, in its sights. If you look at the average City sales for the last 6 months, Honda has sold over 2,900 units.

The Slavia's other segment rivals include the Maruti Suzuki Ciaz and the Hyundai Verna. On average, Hyundai has sold around 1,800 Verna models in the last 6 months, while the Ciaz clocked just 1,100 units.

Skoda has also confirmed that it will be looking at other volume segments below the Slavia and the best body style to bring to the market.

Source: ET Auto

Today, I bring to you another interesting DIY, which is the replacement of Verna's diesel fuel filter.

BHPian stanjohn123 recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Today, I bring to you another interesting DIY, which is the replacement of Verna's diesel fuel filter. It's the first time I'm doing it, so please bear with some of the mistakes I commit.

For those of you who are not patient with reading this long post, can jump to the video I made here.

Now let's begin, shall we?

Tools Required

1. 10mm and 12mm spanner
2. 10mm socket type wrench
3. Filter Wrench - Cost 270 Rs
4. Diesel Fuel Filter - Cost Rs 1,740, including shipping Part # 31922 4H001

STEP 1: Remove the Car Battery. Just note that there is a 12mm screw at the bottom that requires a T-type wrench to remove. Power Terminals come out with a 10mm spanner.

STEP 2: Remove the ECU Bracket. To get free access to the fuel lines and to remove the bottom 10mm nut from the Fuel Filter housing, you need to move the ECU out of the way.

For this, there are 3 x 10 mm screws which need to be removed. After that you can just pull forward the ECU unit for easy access.

STEP 3: Unplugging the Fuel Lines. By pressing 2 green push buttons you can unplug the Inlet and Outlet Fuel lines.

After Unplugging, the fuel lines should look like the below pic

STEP 4: Unplug the Water Sensor. Just press the clip and pull it upwards to unplug.

STEP 5: Remove the Fuel Filter Housing. This is held in place by 3 x 10mm nuts. The top 2 nuts can be removed with the 10mm spanner while the bottom nut needs the 10mm socket wrench.

The Earth wiring also might need to be removed for easy access to the bottom nut. It is stubbornly held in place by a 12 mm screw. So it's better you remove this one as well.

STEP 6: Remove the filter housing from the engine bay and separate the Housing from the Filter. This is simple. Just remove the 2x 10mm screws on the sides and 2 x 12mm Nuts on the top side. This will release the housing from the Filter.

Also don't forget to unhook the water sensor socket from the Filter Housing.

STEP 7: Remove the Water Sensor from the Filter and then remove the Filter from the Fuel pump top assembly.

Just screw the water sensor in the anti-clockwise direction gently will release it from the filter. Be careful as precious fuel will flow out from the filter. If you don't want to waste it, just capture it using a funnel and bottle. Just don't reuse it for your car though.

Then use the filter Wrench to remove the filter from the top pump housing. This is a bit difficult. In Workshops they use a machine to hold one end onto place but I used Juggad-style of laying it down on the floor and holding it onto place with my foot on one end and rotating with the Filter wrench on the other end.

STEP 8: Replace new Diesel Filter. Reconnect the water sensor connector at the bottom of Filter. Now fill the Filter with Fresh Diesel up to the brim and lubricate the washer with Diesel. Then just screw the new filter back onto the top housing.

STEP 9: Reverse the entire step. Place the filter onto the Filter Housing assembly and tighten it. Then place the Fuel Filter assembly back in the engine bay and tighten all the screws.

An Important step here is to just reconnect the Inlet Fuel Line and leave the Outlet Fuel line open. You need to pump the top of the filter housing to make sure fuel is coming out of the outlet pipe and to free any air bubbles. Once you see fuel coming out freely even after you stop pumping, just reconnect the Outlet Fuel Lines as well.

STEP 10: After Re-connecting the Fuel Outlet Keep pumping the top of the Fuel Filter Housing till you can't pump any longer. It'll become really hard and tight. That's the cue to stop.

Reconnect the ECU Housing, Earth Wire and Battery and you're done.

Hope you guys liked this DIY and I do hope you try it out as well.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The immobilizer light in the dashboard works fine when starting, then vehicle runs for 4-5 mins and shuts down.

BHPian Ashish.Dhagat recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

My Hyundai Verna 2009 SX VTVT 1.6 model (petrol) is having a strange issue. The immobilizer light in the dashboard works fine when starting, then vehicle runs for 4-5 mins and shuts down. After that immobilizer light doesnt work and vehicle doesnt start upon ignition. If I try after 4-5 hours, it again works but only for 4-5 minutes. Any help on what this could be related to? Pics attached.

Here's what BHPian SS-Traveller had to say on the matter:

Could be a variety of reasons:

• water in fuel
• clogged suction-end (bottom of tank) coarse filter
• moisture in HT coil packs
• shorted spark plug(s)
• immobiliser faulty / not communicating with transponder in key.

Can't arrive at a definitive diagnosis without actually seeing the car.

Here's what BHPian vigsom had to say on the matter:

I'm assuming that when you turn the ignition on (not crank), you're able to see the the following:

• Check Engine Light(CEL) - steady
• Immobiliser light - steady and not blinking
• Oil pressure light, battery warning light - both steady
• Brake system light connected to handbrake and brake fluid reservoir switch - steady
• ABS light - steady and must disappear after 2-3 seconds
• Airbag lights - must disappear after 3-4 seconds

Both the pictures you've posted show no CEL. When the ignition is turned on

a) CEL not glowing(or glowing for a fraction of a second and immediately going off) plus

b) Immobiliser light not glowing

is most likely related to a few pins on the ECU having deposits on them, resulting in the communication going off momentarily.

Actions:

• Perform an OBD scan (it is likely that the OBD tool won't be able to read from the ECU if there is a communication issue)
• Check the ignition fuse located in the fuse box for improper contact
• Inspect the main relay (not sure where this is in the Verna but will most likely be in a fuse box in the engine bay)
• Disconnect battery negative, open ECU couplers and check if all contact points are clean on the coupler side and the ECU side.

Ashish.Dhagat put in an update:

Thanks all. Found the root cause - The IC of the ECU was damaged. So, got it replaced and is working OK now. Still do not know how it got damaged. There was indeed lot of moisture in the car a day before, but that shouldn't be a reason for damaging the IC.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The feature is offered on the S+ and SX variants. The top-end SX(O) variant does not get this feature.

The Hyundai Verna now comes with wireless Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. The feature is offered on the S+ and SX variants. The top-end SX(O) variant does not get this feature.

The Verna also comes equipped with LED headlamps, dual-tone alloy wheels, an 8-inch touchscreen infotainment head-unit, digital instrument cluster, ventilated front seats, wireless charging, sunroof and hands-free boot.

It is offered with a choice of three engines. The first one is a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder naturally aspirated petrol engine developing 113 BHP and 144 Nm. It is available with either a CVT or a 6-speed manual transmission. The second engine is a 1.0-litre, 3-cylinder turbocharged petrol unit producing 118 BHP and 172 Nm. It comes paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission. The third power plant is the 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder diesel which makes 113 BHP and 250 Nm. It is offered with either a 6-speed manual or a 6-speed automatic transmission.

My cousin who drove the car told me that the clutch operation was getting increasingly difficult and at one point it was very hard to press and it broke.

sai_crdi recently shared this with other BHPians.

I have been gaining a great deal of knowledge from Team-BHP about automobiles for over a decade now. I have owned Accent Crdi, Fluidic Verna (4S) and a Nissan Rogue (USA). The knowledge gained here has helped me diagnose/prevent/troubleshoot many issues with the cars.

I am at present in the USA. My 4 year old Verna (VTVT) is taken care of by my dad. Not driven often, but jacked up all 4 wheels during the lockdown and was started every other week, battery disconnected etc. It is a closed garage which helps to keep the car clean and away from insects/rodents.

We faced a strange issue with the clutch. Last year when it was taken to the fuel station, the rod in the master cylinder assembly which connects the clutch lever with the master cylinder broke. As the car was in extended warranty, the whole assembly was replaced in A.S.S.

After this, the car was not taken out due to the lockdown and as my parents are senior citizens, the car was not taken out of the garage but was just being taken of care by the routine maintenance of the long term parked cars.

Last week, we had to take the car out as we needed to refuel. Almost half tank of petrol was consumed in the bi-weekly engine start/run in the past 1 year. In effect, the car was driven less than 10 km after the previous clutch MS replacement. The rod broke again. My cousin who drove the car told me that the clutch operation was getting increasingly difficult and at one point it was very hard to press and it broke.

Need help with the below 2 questions

1. I am curious to know what could cause this type of variable hardness which is not there when we start the car but gets harder when the car was driven. Any relevant experience, root cause analysis will help a lot.

2. We are out of warranty now and any repair should be from the pocket. Though the part was used for less than 10 km, as it has been more than 6 months, will Hyundai still honor the warranty of the MC and replace?

I thought I could use some consult from the BHPians. Your help is appreciated.

Note: The car was never abused. Maintained and driven in a very careful manner singlehandedly.

Thanks to sai_crdi once again! Check out BHPian comments for more insights & information.

In comparison, Maruti only sold 1,870 units of the Ciaz.

The Honda City was the best selling mid-size sedan in November 2020.

Honda sold 3,523 units of the City, registering a YoY growth of 134.87%. However, compared to the previous month, sales were down by 602 units.

On the other hand, the Maruti Suzuki dispatched 1,870 units of the Ciaz. Sales grew by 29.14% compared to the same period last year. The carmaker sold 448 units more compared to October 2020.

The Hyundai Verna took the third spot with 1,487 units. Verna sales dropped by 26.02% compared to the same period last year. The carmaker also registered a MoM degrowth of 31.35%.

Team-BHP's detailed sales analysis for November 2020.

The base E variant of Verna costs Rs. 36,000 less than the S variant.

Hyundai has added a new base variant to the Verna line-up. The new E trim is priced at Rs. 9,02,900 (ex-showroom).

The equipment list of the entry-level E variant is similar to the S variant of the Verna. However, it misses out on a few features like the 8-inch touchscreen infotainment head-unit, USB charger and sunglass holder.

The E variant is only available with a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder naturally aspirated petrol engine that produces 113 BHP and 144 Nm. It comes mated to a 6-speed manual transmission.

The updated Verna is also offered with a 1.0-litre, 3-cylinder turbocharged petrol unit which makes 118 BHP and 172 Nm and comes paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission as well as a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder diesel that puts out 113 BHP and 250 Nm. The diesel motor is offered with either a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission.

Source

Specification comparison between the Skoda Rapid, Honda City, Hyundai Verna, Maruti Ciaz, Toyota Yaris and Volkswagen Vento.

Earlier this week, Skoda launched the Rapid 1.0L TSI AT. The car competes with the Honda City, Hyundai Verna, Maruti Ciaz and the Toyota Yaris.

While the Skoda Rapid and the Volkswagen Vento share the 1.0-litre TSI petrol engine, the Honda City, Hyundai Verna, Maruti Ciaz and the Toyota Yaris get a 1.5-litre N/A engine. The Rapid and the Ciaz get a torque converter gearbox, while the City, Verna and the Yaris get an optional CVT. The Verna also gets a DCT gearbox with a 1.0-litre unit.

The City and the Verna are also available with diesel engines. The Verna is the sole car to get a diesel AT.

The Hyundai Verna facelift was launched back in March 2020. With lockdown measures being eased, the car has now gone on sale. It is available in S, S+, SX, SX (O) trims with prices starting at Rs. 9,30,585 (ex-showroom, Delhi).

The new Verna gets a new grille and LED headlamps as well as a redesigned front bumper. The car comes with dual-tone alloy wheels and has a shark fin antenna.

On the inside, the new Verna comes with an 8-inch touchscreen infotainment head-unit with redesigned air-conditioner vents, 3-spoke multi-function steering wheel and a digital instrument cluster. It has features such as ventilated front seats, wireless charging, sunroof and hands-free boot.

The new Verna is available with a choice of three BS6-compliant engines. The first one is a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder naturally aspirated petrol engine producing 113 BHP and 144 Nm. It is available with either a CVT or a 6-speed manual transmission. The second engine is a 1.0-litre, 3-cylinder turbocharged petrol unit which makes 118 BHP and 172 Nm and comes paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission. The third option is a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder diesel which makes 113 BHP and 250 Nm. It is offered with either a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission.

Hyundai has launched Verna facelift in India. The car is available in S, S+, SX, SX (O) trims with prices starting at Rs. 9,30,585 (ex-showroom, Delhi).

The Verna facelift gets a redesigned chrome grille flanked by wraparound LED headlights. The car has a new front bumper that houses circular fog lamps and has a chrome insert below the air dam. At the rear, the car has wraparound tail lights, a new dual-tone bumper and shark fin antenna. The car comes with dual-tone alloy wheels.

On the inside, the car gets an 8-inch touchscreen infotainment head-unit with redesigned air-conditioner vents, 3-spoke multi-function steering wheel and a digital instrument cluster. Other features include ventilated front seats, wireless charging, sunroof and hands-free boot.

The new Verna is available with a choice of three BS6-compliant engines. The first one is a 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder naturally aspirated petrol engine developing at 113 BHP @ 6,300 rpm and 144 Nm @ 4,500 rpm. It is available with either a CVT or a 6-speed manual transmission. The second engine is a 1.0-litre, 3-cylinder turbocharged petrol engine producing 118 BHP @ 6,000 rpm and 172 Nm @ 1,500-4,000 rpm. It comes paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission. The third power plant is the 1.5-litre, 4-cylinder diesel which makes 113 BHP @ 4,000 rpm and 250 Nm @ 1,500-2,750 rpm. It is offered with either a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission.

Variant-wise ex-showroom prices:

Petrol

1.5L S MT - Rs. 9,30,585

1.5L SX MT - Rs. 10,70,389

1.5L SX CVT - Rs. 11,95,389

1.5L SX(O) MT - Rs. 12,59,900

1.5L SX(O) CVT - Rs. 13,84,900

1.0L Turbo SX(O) DCT - Rs. 13,99,000

Diesel

S+ - Rs. 10,65,585

SX - Rs. 12,05,389

SX AT - Rs. 13,20,389

SX(O) - Rs. 13,94,900

SX(O) AT - Rs. 15,09,900