In photos: My epic ride to Myanmar on my Royal Enfield Himalayan 450

Near Mile 14, Bagheera took the first fall. Luckily no harm to both of us barring a few scratches on the engine guard

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Trip to Pangsau Pass and Namdapha National Park with Bagheera

This trip was one more from the bucket list of North East destinations. So I took a week off and set course for two locations :-

• Pangsau Pass : at the Indo-Myanmar border on the historically important Stilwel Road and \
• Vijoynagar, one of the remotest locations of Arunachal Pradesh. The road doesnt exist on Google Maps till date, that goes on to say how rarely traversed it is.

Heartfelt thanks to Bhpians ChiranjitP, Yogi..Reeturaj and Guninfor the guidance in planning the route and accomodations enroute.

The original intended itinerary was :-

• Day 1 : Tezpur - Joyrampur
• Day 2 : Joyrampur - Pansau Pass - Miao - Deban (Forest Rest House)
• Day 3 : Deban - Vijoynagar
• Day 4 : local sightseeing at Vijoynagar
• Day 5 : Vijoynagar - Miao
• Day 6 : Miao - Tezpur

However, I had to turn back midway from Mile 22 (a location between Deban and Vijoynagar).

So, the final itinerary was :-

• Day 1 : Tezpur - Joyrampur
• Day 2 : Joyrampur - Pansau Pass - Miao - Deban
• Day 3 : Deban - Mile 22 - North Lakhimpur
• Day 4 : North Lakhimpur - Tezpur

As usual, to obviate things becoming monotonous, the narration is more like a photo essay.

Day 1 (09 December 2024)
Route was Tezpur - Bishwanath Chariali - Gohpur - North Lakhimpur - Dhemaji - Bogibeel Bridge - Dibrugarh Bypass - Digboi - Margherita - Ledo - Jagun - Joyrampur

Till Jagun, the route was the same as the Mechuka trip. Thereafter, I continued straight towards Dhemaji and then crossed over to the South bank of Brahmaputra via the Bogibeel Bridge.

Measuring 4.94 kms, Bogibeel is the longest rail-cum-road bridge in India over the Brahmaputra river

Bogibeel bridge connects Dhemaji and Dibrugarh districts in Assam through NH15

Shri Jagannath Temple on the Dibrugarh Bypass Road

Crossing Digboi, the birthplace of Asia's Oldest Oil Refinery

Patkai Gate : named after Chawlung Sukapha the first king of Ahom Dynasty

Crossed Margherita and followed the famous Stilwell or Ledo road from Ledo via Lekhapani and Jagun to reach Joyrampur, the destination for the day. More information about these places will come up later in the post.

Day 2 (10 December 2024)
Route was Joyrampur - Nampong - Pangsau Pass - Joyrampur - Kharsang - Miao - Deban Forest Rest House

Approaching the Pangsau Pass. The barricaded road to the right leads to Myanmar

View from the Indian side. In the far distance, one can see a water body which is the "Lake of No Return"

Finally - At the Pangsau Pass

With Bagheera on Myanmar soil. The board behind demarcates Indian territory

This beautiful gate welcomes you to the town of Miao

Entrance to the Namdapha National Park & Tiger Reserve : the fourth largest National Park in India. It is home to various exotic species of mammals including endangered ones like the Giant Flying Squirrel and the Red Panda

The Namdapha Butterfly Park houses more than 125 exotic species of butterflies and moths

The Anamika Waterfall : between Gibbon's Land and Deban

The Noadihang River keeps flowing throughout onto the left of the track

The first major obstacle somewhere near Mile 14 - Bagheera took the first fall. Luckily no harm to both of us barring a few scratches on the engine guard

Arrival at Deban Camp, destination for night halt

The Forest Rest House where we were accomodated

View of the Noadihang River from the lawn of the Deban Forest Rest House

Day 3 (11 December 2024)
Route was Deban - Mile 22 (enroute Vijoynagar) - Miao - and back via same route to North Lakhimpur.

The plan was to ride from Deban to Vijoynagar. However, it rained the previous night and parts of the road near Mile 22 where the JCB had poured mud to level the caved out patches became like knee deep slush puddles. Since I was riding solo, it was becoming increasingly difficult to ride through the slush patches where I was literally pushing the bike. So, finally at Mile 22, I decided to abandon the ride and turn back.

At the 19th Mile Watch Tower

View from the watch tower

View of the Noadihang River from the 19th Mile Watch Tower

The caved in portion at Mile 22. Zoom in to see the knee deep puddles. At this point I decided to turn back

Rains and exposed slippery rocks made things worse at the slushy patch near Mile 14. Had to literally creep forward to avoid slipping and falling

On the way back, stopped at the Choephelling Tibetan Settlement near Miao

Bagheera at Lekhapani : the Eastern most Railway Station of India

Lekhapani played a significant role during movement of Allied Forces during the Japanese Blockade in World War II

Ledo : the place from where the famous Stilwell Road was constructed till Kunming in China. Also, it is the Easternmost functional railway station of India

Day 4 (12 December 2024)
Route taken was North Lakhimpur - Laluk - Gohpur - Bishwanath Chariali - Tezpur

Back home after 1076 kms and 4 days of pure fun on the saddle

Not being able to make it to Vijoynagar left a sour taste somewhere in the mouth. But, the traffic on this road, especially after Deban, is next to Nil. Plus there is no mobile connectivity after Mile 17 and only 2-3 villages in almost 90 kms stretch. These factors, coupled with the pathetic road conditions, made me decide not to cross the thin line between adventure and foolhardiness. But, I will surely come back to Vijoynagar, maybe with a partner or back up, if not solo.

Happy miles to all

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