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BHPian kumar_nm recently shared this with other enthusiasts:
I lived my dream through my XUV700 and even after the trip is over, I am still in those dreams. Of course, I can write a whole book on this trip however, I would try my best to keep it short and pointed to make it quick and reader friendly with different sections. This is my first ever blog hence, give me the benefit of doubt on how to write a good blog without any judgement and please ignore typing errors, if any.
(1) Trip details: Duration: 4 Months (16th Feb 2024 to 24th Jun 2024), Distance: ~18000 Kms, States travelled: 8+, Type: Mix (with family till Jaipur and then Solo.
(2) Trip vehicle: Mahindra XUV700 AX7L Diesel AT AWD
(3) Trip Route (Mentioning names of only major towns/cities where I stayed or famous tourist places where I took my car): Bangalore – Pune – Mumbai – Nagpur – Varanasi – Patna – Saharsa (Hometown) – Patna – Varanasi – Ayodhya – Lucknow – Agra – Jaipur – Ranthambore – Ujjain – Mount Abu – Udaipur – Jodhpur – Jaisalmer – Longewala Border – Jodhpur – Jaipur – Gurugram (20000 kms servicing) – Haridwar – Rishikesh – Tehri Dam – Ghamsali – Uttarkashi – Harshil Valley – Gartang Gali – Dharali – Gangotri – Yamunotri – Uttarkashi – Mussorie (Kempty) – Dhanaulti – Chakrata – Lokhandi – Tiuni - Mussorie (Kempty) – Dehradun – Rishikesh – Rudraprayag - Guptakashi – Sonprayag ( Kedarnath 24 kms trekking on foot) – Badrinath – Mana – Joshimath – Chopta (Tunganath 5.5 kms trekking on foot) – Ukhimath – Ransi (Madhyamaheshwar 19 + 2 kms trekking on foot) – Sagar village (Rudranath 23 kms trekking on foot) – Niti village (Indo-Tibet border) – Urgam valley – Karnaprayag – Nandaprayag – Rishikesh – Gurugram – Manali – Darcha – Baralacha La - Sarchu – Leh – Nubra Valley – Turtuk (Thang village till India Pak border) – Pangong Lake – Spangmik – Hanle – Umling La – Demchok (Till India-China LAC) – Nyoma - Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Sarchu – Kyelang – Near Chandratal (Decided to keep it a reason for future trips) – Kaza/ Spiti valley – Key – Cheecham – Langza - Komic - Hikkim – Tabo – Reckong Peo – Kalpa – Chitkul – Jibhi – Shoja – Chandigarh – Gurugram (30000 kms servicing)
(4) Short intro about me – I am sure that people may ask me that what do I do for living and how did I manage to do such a long trip. Therefore, giving my short intro in advance. I belong to Bihar but now I am settled in Bengaluru for my job. I work as AGM – Global Marketing (Europe) in a US based firm where I have flexible working hours as well as Work-From-Home but need to go to office for attending Senior Leadership Meetings every 1-2 months. Unfortunately my this trip had ended due to my office meetings only when I got a call from office while chilling at Shoja (HP).
(5) The car and it’s performance – Little bit background about this. When I was buying my car, I had shortlisted Kodiaq and XUV700 and then finally went ahead with XUV700 only due to advantage of service network because I knew that someday I will drive across India, so I needed a car with wide service network. And XUV700 didn’t disappoint me during the trip. Now coming to the trip, the odo was at 12000 kms when I started my trip. I would rate XUV’s performance as 4.9 out of 5. (a) Positives: Trustworthy, confident, and robust performance by XUV700 in this whole 18K trip. Didn’t face even a minor issue from car’s side except the typical Ladakh sticky sand sticks to your brake pad and makes little sound while running for some distance. EWS was visibly handy at multiple places due to uneven highways or expressways. AWD mode of XUV700 came quite handy even with stock tyres at multiple places in Uttarakhand, Ladakh and Spiti, especially sand beds on the way from Pangong to Hanle. The power and the pull, even at mighty Umling La, never disappointed with 4 people and full load. Even though thin air affected the braking time and distance on off road terrains in Ladakh, a good driver can easily adjust and drive. Such an impressive machine that gave me confidence of driving at high speed even in mountains. (b) Negatives: I deducted 0.1 rating for majorly 2 issues which are manufacturer related (a) Soft suspension gives you good amount of body rolls during severely rough patches like Baralacha La. (b) Automatic gear shift needs to be calibrated little better.
(6) Long trips taken during the trip: Mahindra should thank for multiple real life endurance test (i) Urgam – Badrinath – Karnaprayag (Aadi badri) – Gurugram: Completed this ~650 kms trip in one go in 18 hours (11:30 AM to 05:30 AM) with 1 break of 1 hr (office meeting) and 2 breaks of 15 minutes each for lunch and dinner. (ii) Delhi to Old Manali ~500 kms with just 1 tea break in 9 hrs ( 10:00 AM to 07:00 PM) (iii) Bengaluru (Marathahalli) to Mumbai (Andheri) ~1000 kms in 14 hrs with one break of 20 mins (06:00 AM to 08:00 PM) (iv) Nagpur to Patna ~1000 kms in 12 hours with one break of 5 minutes (06:00 AM to 06:00 PM) (v) Manali to Spiti ~180 kms in 12 hours with one lunch break of 30 minutes (07:00 AM to 07:00 PM) (vi) Darcha to Leh ~350 kms in 7 hours with multiple stops for clicks and foods (09:00 AM to 04:00 PM)
(7) Managing the trip – (a) Work along with travel - My login time is around 12 noon so, got plenty of driving time in the morning hours specially in mountains where the mornings are quite early. 1-2 hours at 12 and then then 1-2 hrs late night used to be enough for my daily work along with attending meeting on the way while driving. I had 1 Jio plus 1 airtel postpaid sim so, network was never a challenge except going to an absolute non-network area, like Darcha to Leh or Manali to Spiti valley where I used to take leaves. Wifi availability at restaurants helped to attend meetings whenever needed. (b) Food - Never faced any problem with the food except that it was not so easy to find non-veg in Uttarakhand. Can’t forget the taste of Rajma rice in Army canteens specially Kalidhar Canteen on Pangong to Hanle route. And whole Rajasthan was full of tasty foods. Local Bhaang Chutney which is used in winters in all homes in Uttarakhand, is a must try.
(c) Stay – Stayed mostly in designated homestays or explored places in villages. It happened 3 times that I had to sleep in my car and XUV700 didn’t disappoint there too. (d) Safety – No safety concerns at all from local guys in mountains. I left my car on roadsides randomly for hours and days and no one ever touched it. From terrain perspective, yes, the mountains throw multiple challenges, and you must be a skilled driver specially when driving 80+ even in mountains. XUV gives you that extra confidence boost. You must know the mountain way of driving when it comes to overtaking or giving sides or using indicators. I got so confused initially when local vehicles used to give right indicator to ask you to overtake and go ahead, which in general means that the other vehicle will change its lane. There are many such things which we need to learn while on road with your eyes and ear open. Even giving lift to local people, not travelers, is absolute safe.
(8) Unforgettable moments of the trip: There were many such moments which make you smile in awe or give you that serotonin release or required adrenaline shot but I would keep it limited to top 10 moments only.
(i) Here comes my #1 dream moment. Imagine staying in a wooden cottage at the top of mountains in a dark night surrounded by pine trees with no civilization around and cooking wild chicken with bon-fire with strangers becoming your good friends. What an enchanting experience surrounded by those towering pine trees, the cottage felt like a cozy refuge from the outside world. At dusk, the air gets filled with sounds of rustling leaves and howling sound of nocturnal wildlife. The place greets you with a breathtaking canopy of stars, the scent of pine, the pure natural wind, making you feel deeply connected to nature. And guess what, you must carry your luggage on a 45-60 mins steep trek via dense pine trees and a waterfall to reach this cottage. It was a magical escape. The moment I would carry to my death bed.
(ii) The 2nd best moment was the whole drive from Manali to Spiti Valley (Kaza). Manali (6000 ft) to Kaza (11000 ft) is an upward journey hence brings more challenges. It was an unforgettable journey through the breathtaking landscapes of the Himalayas. The route, known for its rugged terrain and stunning vistas, takes you through riverbeds full of stones and water bodies, dramatic mountain passes and uncertain narrow paths. While navigating the winding roads, the mesmerizing beauty of snow-capped peaks and azure rivers, with each turn were revealing new panoramas. The drive is challenging, particularly at higher altitudes, but the sense of adventure and the serene isolation of the Spiti Valley make it a truly remarkable experience. Stopping along the way to explore ancient monasteries, snow beds and Chacha-Chachi Dhaba (at Batal) added to the allure of this remarkable road trip.
(iii) Having read about it in books since childhood and then standing there in my own car gave me a sense of achievement for a minute at Khardung La. And experiencing the heavy snowfall was an icing on the cake. It makes you feel to get lost in the winter wonderland. The soft, powdery snow blankets the rugged mountains and winding roads, creating a serene and almost ethereal atmosphere. Watching snowflakes gently fall while surrounded by towering peaks and dramatic vistas was a magical moment. The thrill of navigating through the snow, with the vehicle crunching over the fresh layers, adds to the excitement. This enchanting experience is not just about the beauty; it's also a reminder of nature's grandeur and the challenges of high-altitude travel, making it an unforgettable highlight for adventurers and nature enthusiasts.
(iv) The way I drove in mountains, local taxi drivers started recognizing my car from distance. So, I literally got famous in Ladakh as “Karnataka XUV guy”. The point is that local drivers consider outside drivers as nothing and hence, they always overtake outside cars to show that we are superior drivers and have more skills. They literally call outsiders as highway/ Maidan (Plain/Field) drivers. However, I challenged all local drivers in speed, handling, control everything which made me famous among locals. So here comes the moment which made me smile. I was driving from Nyoma to Hanle when 3 different biker groups stopped and told me that local people of Hanle were waiting for you last evening saying that Karnataka XUV guys is coming and even they had reserved a bed for me without asking. For those who have been there in peak season, know that finding a stay in Hanle after 4-5 PM is very difficult so, they did this out of respect and courtesy. Because I was scheduled to reach Hanle last evening, but I chose to stay in Nyoma because wasted 3 hours in saving a stuck Innova. And this story of stuck Innova is my 5th best moment of the trip.
(V) while driving through river and sand beds, after crossing Rezing La, it’s very difficult to find the exact way to move ahead hence I waited and started following 2 local taxi drivers carrying 2 rich families from Delhi with army and political background. After following them for almost 40-45 mins, the started figuring out the path and hence thought to move ahead of them. But both started blocking my ways in rhythm and weren’t allowing me to go. Then finally I overtook both and then the chase game begins for next 2-3 hours. They kept trying but couldn’t catch me then while chasing me in the deep sand bed of Indus River between Thangra and Loma Bridge, the chasing Innova got stuck till axle. The fun fact was that no one stopped for him so, I took reverse and came for his help. When asked him that why did u take this path, he replied that your XUV did it so I thought that my Innova would also pass. It was an Innova 4*4 and that’s when I realized the true performance of XUV 700’s AWD feature. There were children in other Innova and hence I decided to help them which took almost 3 hours and hence I got delayed for Hanle and decided to stop in Nyoma for the night. Loved this moment just because of XUV’s performance.
(vi) Trekking or driving monstrous mountains of Uttarakhand to visit 5 Kedar, 7 Badri and 4 Dhaam visit is a lifetime spiritual goal for many of us which I completed in this trip. That feeling of no existence in front of nature while going through those long treks is mindboggling. But still, I would choose the Budha (Aged) Madhyamaheshwar trekking of 21 kms (~11500 feet) as the most beautiful one. That view of mighty Chaukhamba Peak (23500 Ft) may stop your breath. Also, not giving any discount to mesmerizing view of Kedarnath view at the top.
(vii) Experiencing the evening Ganga Aarti in Varanasi was a surreal experience. As dusk falls, the ghats come alive with flickering lamps and the rhythmic chanting of mantras. The vibrant lights of the ceremony against the backdrop of the darkening sky make it a truly unforgettable moment, evoking deep reflections on life, death, and the eternal flow of the river especially when you cross Manikarnika ghat and know more about it.
(viii) From Road and Drive perspective, though RJ and UP had most amazing highways, 2 best highway terrain where I drove was (a) Jaisalmer to Longewala Indo – Pak border. It’s a captivating journey through the heart of the Thar Desert. As you set off from the golden sands of Jaisalmer, the landscape transforms into vast stretches of undulating dunes and rugged terrain with glimpses of traditional Rajasthani villages. The sense of isolation and tranquility enhances the experience, with the sound of the wind and the endless horizon providing a unique serenity. As you approach the Longewala border, the terrain becomes even more dramatic, marked by historical significance and the spirit of resilience. (b) Samruddhi Mahamarg - Driving on the Samruddhi Mahamarg makes you witness the beauty of modern infrastructure in India. Such a well-maintained highway, the scenery shifts from lush green landscapes to rolling hills and serene farmland on both sides give you a thrilling drive experience. Though it was little boring too due to very less vehicle and long straight part.
(ix) Off-roading in the sand dunes of Jaisalmer is an exhilarating adventure that promises both thrill and breathtaking beauty. As you navigate the undulating dunes in the age-old cult Thar 4x4, the rush of adrenaline combines with the stunning landscape of golden sands. The experience is a blend of skill of the local driver and excitement, as you conquer steep slopes and sharp turns, feeling the vehicle dancing across the shifting terrain, further complimented with the stunning sunset and experience local culture with traditional music and dance in the desert camps. The rugged charm of the dunes, paired with the spirit of adventure, makes off-roading in Jaisalmer an unforgettable experience for thrill-seekers like me.
(x) Spending the night in Darcha in my car at -6O temperature was an unforgettable experience. Left Manali in the morning around 11 AM and reached Darcha police post at 1.30 PM. The police were not allowing any private vehicle to go to Baralacha La/ Sarchu/ Leh due to bad weather and heavy snowfall. After waiting for 3 hours, they announced that they would leave us tomorrow morning at 7 AM. The wait game suddenly became an unwanted adventurous experience with complete uncertainty. There were 2 small huts giving dinner and rented blankets. Spent the whole night in my car at -6O temp under mesmerizing celestial display with 3-4 kms long queue of vehicles. The cold night created the warmth of the memories forever. Departed finally at 8.30 AM next morning and reached Leh hotel at 6 PM. 31 hours with absolutely no shit, the real one, Phewwww!!!
(7) Dangerous moments: out of 4-5 moments, would love to share top 3 moments where I had near death experience.
(i) After crossing Batal on Manali – Spiti route, I was negotiating through a narrow curve with slippery soil and flowing water stream and suddenly heard the honk of a big monster HRTC bus. I too honked but of no use as we know that these normal low-pressure horns are not that much effective at such high altitude. The bus stopped closer to the curve point. Easier to write than doing when it happened, I literally had my left rear wheel in air for 1-2 seconds on the side of deep gorge. The car guy behind the HRTC bus came out and saluted my skill. This made me happy as a driver, but I still feel that I should have found another way than taking this adventurous way. But again, I could do this only because I had that trust on XUV700. This may sound foolish to many of us and indeed it is, but no complaints. The thrill of that moment gives me goosebumps even now.
(ii) Chopta (~9000 feet) is famous as Mini Switzerland as well as one of the most notorious traffic places in Uttarakhand specially during weekend. It has narrow roads and people coming to Chopta for weekend trekking make it further narrow by parking on roadsides causing 4-5 hours long traffic jam in the hills. I drove through Chopta 7-8 times during my trip, and I always made it a point to cross Chopta during weekdays. For once I crossed it during weekend and got my 2nd most dangerous moment of the trip. Half of the left lane was overtaken by parked vehicles and the incoming bus driver took his bus to his right lane which means he was driving in front of me. He said that bus won’t be able to go from his left lane due to less space and the deep gorge on his left side and he was right. To make it worse, there were 3 buses in the queue in next 10-12 vehicles. The bus driver was kind enough to lock the bus and go for evening snacks to make it worse as the queue behind me too had already got longer. I had no option but to try going by right side with the gorge on my right side. When half of my vehicle crossed, I suddenly felt that my right rear wheel is slipping and going down. XUV700 activated its AWD mode automatically and I instantly pressed the accelerator, and all these happened in sync within a second. Goshhh, what a moment it was. Another goosebump moment for me as a driver.
(iii) While driving from Jaipur to Ujjain, I took a flyover and the moment it started descending, the undulated roads made the vehicle jump in air 2-3 times. The magnitude of undulation was so much that the vehicle was in air for >1 feet and jumped 2-3 times to settle down. Thankfully the EBS got activated instantly and XUV700 hardly got affected. I stopped and looked at the road condition which made me suspicious. After few kilometers I stopped at a toll plaza and asked about it and got to know that the flyover is under maintenance and closed for public. Some miscreants might have removed the barriers in night with some ill intention. Such a dangerous moment, specially being a solo driver on that day.
(8) Best routes to drive during the trip: Pune to Mumbai, Samruddhi Mahamarg, Udaipur to Jodhpur, Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, Jaisalmer to Longewala, Ajmer to Jaipur, Poorvanchal expressway, Lucknow Agra Expressway, Jaipur to Delhi (part of Mumbai Delhi Expressway), Haridwar to Rishikesh via Cheela Dam Road, Delhi – Chandigarh, Nyoma - Hanle – Photi La - Umling La route.
(9) Fun routes which I loved but may or may not be pleasant for everyone: Manali to Leh via Baralacha La/ Sarchu, Manali to Spiti, Mandi to Manali via Bhuntar and Kullu, Leh to Nubra/ Turtuk, Nubra valley to Pangong via Agham Shyok road, Pangong to Hanle, Tso Moriri to Leh via Puga, Kalpa to Chitkul, Kalpa to Shoja and Jibhi via Jalori Pass, Joshimath to Niti valley via Dronagiri mountain, Helang to Urgam Valley
(10) Unpleasant/ Bad routes (with reasons): Kolhapur to Pune (almost the whole route is under construction simultaneously and diversions are full of potholes), Mumbai to Nasik route - where it joins the Samruddhi Mahamarg (Bad roads with big size potholes and then too many large sized trucks on hilly sections make it dangerous for LMVs), Jabalpur to Rewa (Too many cattles sitting or walking on the road or grazing on both sides including the divider), Patna to Varanasi (2 lane road and dense population area makes it tiring and unskilled drivers), Agra to Jaipur (2 lane road with unskilled drivers), Haridwar to Kedarnath and Badrinath route are too crowded for 6 months during char-dham yatra and can make you wait overnight in a traffic jam, Guptakashi to Joshimath via Chopta is a nightmare in weekend evening during summer.
(11) Future trips in Plan within next 12 months – (i) Patna – Varanasi – Indore – Baroda – Nasik – Pune – Chattrapati sambhaji Nagar – Bengaluru (ii) 2-months Whole South India tour including Mangalore coastal roads. (iii) Bengaluru – Bangkok – Patna (iv) Bengaluru - Dhanush Kodi (separate family trip) (v) Patna to Nepal where I will cover complete Nepal including upper Mustang. (vi) Mumbai – Delhi Expressway non-stop (vi) 2-3 months long tour of North-East India (once the situation of Manipur gets normalized).
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