Land of the Rising sun: 14-day Arunachal road trip in a Tata Nexon

This time we planned for the eastern sector and what could be the best option other than “Arunachal”, the land of the Rising Sun.

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Lost in the Land of the Rising Sun

There is something undeniably fascinating about a Road Trip. The ribbon of asphalt that stretches out before you, always promises adventure, a sense of freedom and the thrill of the unknown. A road trip always gives you a chance to escape the mundane and create memories of lifetime. After completing our Zanskar Road trip in June. I was longing for another Road trip and looking for an opportunity to plan for one more Road trip this year. Durga Puja gave me that opportunity and presented the perfect window for another Road trip. Having driven to the Northern part of India for last couple of years, this time we planned for the eastern sector and what could be the best option other than “Arunachal”, the land of the Rising Sun. Once the destination was fixed, it was time to plan the itinerary. Like Ladakh, the travel map of Arunachal too is spread across vast area starting from the Tawang at the western part to Dong, at the eastern most part of it. Our Arunachal itinerary finally boiled down to Shergaon, Bomdila, Dirang, Tawang circuit. This circuit needs no introduction. Probably the most famous region in Arunachal Pradesh. Popular for the friendly Monpa population, Buddhist Monasteries, High passes, and Lakes.

While driving from Kolkata, Arunachal has two popular and most availed entry points. One is through Balemu and the other one is through Bhalukpong. People travelling from Kolkata normally prefers the Balemu entry point as it gives the opportunity to travel through Shergaon, a beautiful place famous as the Apple Bowl of Arunachal Pradesh. Shergaon has many stay options, most of them are homestays. I too planned for entry via Shergaon and accordingly started looking for accommodations so that they can be booked in advance. However, the time being October (Durga Puja Holidays) I couldn’t find a single homestay with availability of room for the date of my arrival. Finally, had to reschedule the itinerary and planned our entry via Bhalukpong. Getting ILP is a straightforward process nowdays. With the help of online option the ILP was done in advance.

The following itinerary was prepared:

Day 1: 11.10.2024 – Kolkata to Bongaigaon – 867 Km.
Day 2:12.10.2024 – Bongaigaon to Jamiri – 367 Km.
Day 3: 13.10.2024 – Jamiri to Sangti Valley – 90 KM.
Day 4: 14.10.2024 – Sangti Valley – Dirang.
Day 5: 15.10.2024 – Dirang to Tawang – 144 Km.
Day 6: 16.10.2024 – Tawang.
Day 7: 17.10.2024 – Tawang.
Day 8: 18.10.2024 – Tawang to Zemithang – 70 Km.
Day 9: 19.10.2024 – Zemithang to Shergaon – 207 Km.
Day 10: 20.10.2024 – Shergaon to Guwahati – 219 Km.
Day 11: 21.10.2024 – Guwahati.
Day 12: 22.10.2024 – Guwahati to Jaldapara – 352 Km.
Day 13: 23.10.2024 – Jaldapara.
Day 14: 24.10 2024 – Jaldapara to Kolkata – 707 Km.

However, as the trip progressed, we had to modify the itinerary according to the situation.

Some pictures to begin with.

Chasing horizons and dodging deadlines.

Untold stories ahead.

Every road leads to new stories with my favorite adventurers.

Roads were made for journeys, not destinations.

Drive, discover, delight.

Odometer going up, worries going down.

Escape and breathe the air of new places.

Day 1: 11.10.2024. Kolkata to Bongaigaon. 870 Km. 18 Hrs.

It's time to write a new Chapter!!

First day of our trip and we had to cover a long distance. So, we planned to leave at midnight considering the fact that at night traffic will be comperatively less and we can cover some distance freely. However,the day being Maha Asthami, we expected to encounter heavy traffic till we leave Kolkata. There is only one route that will take you to North Bengal. The erstwhile NH-34 and new NH-12. There are multiple choke points on this route till Barasat where, probably NH-12 is at it's worst state.

We took blessings from Maa Durga and the wheels rolled at 12.30 A.M. Driving through Kolkata during Durga Puja can be challenging due to traffic rerstrictions and other road rules. We drove through the lit up and beautifully decirated roads, giving a feel of festivities.

Fortunately, we did not encounter any traffic congestion and our exit from Kolkata was smooth. After crossing NSCBI Airport, joined NH-12. From here till next 50 Km we drove through single lane road, whcih did not give a feel of National Highway. After driving 50 Km, we reached Barajaguli and hereon started driving on full fledged four lane NH-12. The surface was smooth and First Pitstop was planned at Krishnanagar. Recently I have discovered a food joint named Shankar Mistanna Pratisthan at Krishnanager conveniently located at NH-12. Kudos to NHAI for the quality of work they have done.

Reached krishnanager at 3 A.M. Coming to Shankar Mistanna Pratisthan, this is a famous stop amongst people travelling between Kolkata and Siliguri, specially the Volvo Coaches. While being on the road for long hours during roadtrips the most common problem is finding clean washrooms for relieving oneself. This food joint has thoroughly impressed me with its amenities. Something which I had seen at the food joints at Murthal. Those who do road trips would easily understand why I am emphasising on this point. Nevertheless after sipping hot cup of tea we continued our journey onward.

Ready to move after first Pit Stop.

The surface at Baharampur Bypass has disappointed me. This Bypass was thrown open for operation a year back roughly but the surface has deteriorated so much so that at some point it gave me a feeling like I was offroading. At the break of daylight we crossed Malda. We had planned to stop at Pardeshi Dhaba at Malda for breakfast. However, it was closed by the time we reached Pardeshi Dhaba. As the day progressed, our stomachs grumbled in unison but we couldn't find a place for breakfast. Although we passed by many dhabas but none of them had started their business at that time. So, without any option I continued driving and crossed Raiganj Bypass. This bypass has saved roadtrippers from the ordeal of driving through the congested lanes of Raiganj. The surface on NH-27 before and after Kisanhanj is in bad shape till Islampur. Finally, managed to locate a dhaba at Dhantala, few kilometers ahead of Islampur. It was 11 A.M and all of us were feeling very hungry. Ordered for hot tawa roti and dal tadka and filled our stomaches so that it can withstand our energy requirements for next 4-5 hours.

Smiling faces after recharging our batteries.

Crossed Islampur without any issue. Thanks to the bypass. Took the diversion from Ghoshpukur and drove towards Jalpaiguri following G Map on NH-27. At Dhupguri I made a mistake of following G Map on NH-27 and it took me through a single lane broken road towards Alipurduar. Although this stretch of surface is called NH-27 but it does not have any quality of a National Highway.

Some beautiful moments near Fulbari.

The surface is in pathetic shape here. Had to negotiate heavy traffic while crossing Alipurduar town and after strugling for couple of hours, joined NH-317 (which I should have taken from Dhupguri itself) somewhere near Majherbari tea estate. Here on the road was good and gradually we started approaching Bengal Assam Border. Sankosh river demarcates the border between the two states here. After crossing this river , we were welcomed into Assam.

Cockpit view.

When we approached Bongaigaon it had become dark. We reached the hotel, Cygnett Park Meghna around 6.30 PM. After being on the road for almost 18 Hrs all of us were tired and specially feeling Hungry. The rooms were cozy and comfy. Initially we had planned for going to the city to witness Durga Puja but cancelled that as all of us were running low on battery Hence the plan was cancelled and it was early dinner and bedtime for us.

Day - 2: 12.10.2024 Bongaigaon to Jamiri. 367 Km. 11 Hrs.

Never underestimate the FOG !!

Review about Cygnet Park Meghna.

Location: 4.5/5
Ambiance: 4/5
Comfort: 4/5
Food: 4.5/5
Staff Behaviour: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5

All set for the journey ahead.

After driving for more than 18 Hrs yesterday all of us needed some good amount of sleep. The hotel did not give us any chance to feel uncomfortable and we had nice and tight sleep. Today’s plan was to start by 8 A.M and reach Jamiri in daylight. There are two routes to enter Arunachal Pradesh from this part. First route is via Shergaon and the other one is via Bhalukpong. Most of the people prefer to travel via Shergaon so that they can explore this beautiful place enroute Dirang or Tawang. Many people are not aware that Arunachal Pradesh has most delicious apples! Shergaon is known as the Apple Bowl of Arunachal Pradesh. Shergaon has been recognized as the Best Tourism Village 2023 in Silver Category.
We left the hotel at 9.30 A.M. Skipped the Breakfast at the hotel as we planned to do it on the go. Initial 95 Km on this route runs on NH-27.

Highway on my plate.

We had a sumptuous breakfast at Barpeta with handmade roti and tadka on the way. Thereafter, Diya did a bit of Pandal Hopping on the go. We crossed some beautiful Puja Pandals while moving towards our destination and stopped by them, so that Diya can enjoy some moments at the pandals. Here, the Durga Idol is decorated with the Gamosa which symbolises the Assamese identity and culture.

Diya enjoying her moments at a local Durga Puja Mandap.

I was thoroughly enjoying the drive but didn't expect that to last for initial 95 Km. From our Hotel at Bongaigaon, after driving for 95 Km Google Aunty shown me a diversion from NH-27. The other route was a longer one which runs through Nalbari and meets with this route at Orang. I followed G Map and took the diversion and after driving for just few Km discovered that it was State Highway 10 and it runs through villages. It was narrow and at certain points the surface was completely broken. But the surrounding views were mesmerising. Drove many kilometers with lush green paddy field on both of the sides of the road. For once thought of flying my drone over here but resisted the temptation and continued driving. From the point of Diversion drove next 175 Km through the State Highway. In between drove past many tea estates. Finally joined the BCT Road (Balipara Chariduar Tawang) road and heaved a sigh of relief. I was longing to get on to the Highway again. Hereon the drive was comfortable. So, after driving on the broken and dusty roads, past Balipara and the Nameri National Park, the hills of Arunachal, till now looming in the distance, started coming into view. Quite naturally, the weather changed along with the landscape – we could feel the chill in the air as we crossed Assam-Arunachal border at Bhalukpong. We reached Bhalukpong after sundown. A small town located along the southern reaches of the Himalayas, Bhalukpong was the location for the inner line check post. The formality of ILP checking was smooth and we entered the Land of the Rising Sun. The journey resumed after the clearances; the Kameng chu (river) was our constant companion. However, dur to the darkness around, we could not enjoy the mesmerising view of this river resembling a silver ribbon meandering across a sea of green.

Had it been daylight I would have enjoyed the views but as it became dark and we started climbing up to the hill I couldn't do anything but to concentrate on the road and drive on. As I continued to drive upward the visibility started deteriorating due to the fog. After crossing Tippi and Sessa we approached Nechiphu, which is famous for extreme foggy conditions prevailing around Nechiphu Pass, causing hindrance to general traffic and military convoys for many decades. However, after construction of the Nechiphu Tunnel conditions have improved a bit but that may be during the day time. While driving towards Nechiphu Tunnel, negotiating the curves on the road, suddenly, had a glance at the G Map on my infotainment screen. It was all Red for next 14 Km till entrance the tunnel. For once I thought there might be huge traffic congestion due to which G Map was showing the road as RED. I was completely unaware of what was in store for us for next one hour of may be more than that. I did not have an iota of idea that we were going to pass through the scariest moments of our life. Perhaps this is what road trip is all about.

So, cutting short to the story as I entered the Red Zone (as shown in G Map) all of a sudden, the visibility reduced drastically. it almost became zero. I could barely see the bonnet of my car, leave aside seeing the road ahead. The fog was so dense and gradually the density kept on increasing and to make matters worse for me, here the road had multiple hairpin bends with gradual ascent. I tried to follow the white marker at the middle of the road and told Sharmila to look for the left shoulder of the road which was the mountain side. My right side was the danger zone and the edge of the road was hardly visible. One moment I could locate the middle marker and the next moment it was discovered that I had come close to the right extreme. Slowly and cautiously, I kept on driving while regretting for not chosing to stay at Bhalukpong for the night. I had no idea that fog could play this havoc. As the road was moving upward, I had to maintain a bit of momentum to move up as I could not afford to stall the car in between under that condition. Not a single vehicle crossed me, neither from behind nor from the opposite side as well. The ordeal lasted for more than an hour and finally after driving for more than 10 Km through the nightmare, finally we broke through the fog and entered the Nechiphu Tunnel. It appeared to us like we had discovered water in the middle of a desert. Such was the level of relief. It was scary. A lifetime experience perhaps. After crossing the tunnel, it took us another 40-45 mins to reach Jamiri Homestay. As it was downhill drive after the tunnel, it was not difficult, especially after driving through last 15 Km.
We were welcomed with tea and snacks at the homestay.

Relieving the stress.

Nicely decorated Jamiri Homestay.
The rooms were prebooked. It was almost dinner time. We had nothing much to do. It took some time to get out of the Nechiphu Trauma. Finished our dinner with Red Rice, Chicken Currey and local dishes. The weather was cold but bearable. We were getting a hint of what to expect hereon. It was raining when we went to bed. An eventful day went off well.

Day - 3: 13.10.2024. Jamiri - Bomdila - Mandala Top - Sangti Valley.
150 Km. 7 Hrs..

The gorgeous and secluded Sangti Valley !!

Review about Jamiri Homestay.

Location: 4.5/5
Ambiance: 4.5/5
Comfort: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Staff Behaviour: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 5/5

Third day of our trip. The alarm clock went off at 6.30 in the morning and it was raining outside. Jamiri is a small village on the BCT (Balipara - Chariduar - Tawang) or NH-13, roughly 50 Km ahead of Bomdila. The homestay that we stayed is beautifully located at an elevation overlooking the road running parallel to the Tenga River.

Dul Dul Tharpa Ling Gompa on top of the hill, the road and tenga river. A complete canvas witnessed from Jamiri Homestay.

The Homestay also gives a clear view of a newly constructed monastery on top of a small hill. It is known as Dul Dul Tharpa Ling Gompa, which has been constructed by the villagers. I had planned to fly my drone over the homestay to get a bird eye view of area but as it was pouring heavily, had to drop that plan. Due to the rain the whole area was covered under thick fog. While talking to the homestay owner over a cup of morning tea I was told that the weather was like to deteriorate further and the rain would continue. So we chose to leave a bit early. Although the distance to be covered was not much as compared to what i did in last two days but driving on hills is a different ball game altogether. There is a stretch on the road around Bomdila which is also famous for dense fog. The memory of Nechiphu fog was still playing at the back of my mind, so we left Jamiri at 8.30 A.M.
The road is very good. Being a National Highway and being used by the Indian Army regularly, it is in pristine condition. Driving on this surface is always a pleasure. As we approached Tenga, the weather suddenly cleared off and natures canvas was clearly visible. Gradually we crossed Tenga which is a combination of majestic peaks, verdant valley and the crystal clear water of the Tenga river. Tenga can also be a very good option to spend a day. Nature's artistry can be observed in every corner of these scenic spots, where even a simple walk can turn into an unforgettable moment.
We took first stop at Bomdila Monastery which was just 40 Km away from Jamiri Homestay. After crossing Tenga the road started moving up. A bit narrow and moving through locality, a bit tricky to negotiate. Bomdila Monastery was established in the year 1965, it also has a school which teaches monk kids, which is a common phenomena at all the buddhist monasteries. We have noticed it at Karsha, Hemis, Stongdey and other monasteries too. Weather at hills are always unpredictable.

Falcon parked at Bomdila Monastery.

As we reached Bomdila Monastery, it suddenly started to rain and the area again engulfed by fog. Visibility went down drastically. After speding some good amount of time we left the monastery for our next destination.

Some views of the Bomdila Monastery.

Creating memories. One frame at a time.

There is a place on the road called Bomdila View Point, the highest point which offers breathtaking views of the landscape around including Nechipu Pass. West Kameng Valley spreads out in front of your eyes when viewed from here. But the area being covered under thick fog, it was not possible. So driving forward was the only option available with me and I kept on doing that towards our next destination, Manda La Top.

It was fog all around, but the atmosphere was amazing.

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