Went back to the room and crashed onto the bed. I’m on vacation ain’t I, so I can afford the afternoon nap. Wake up and have a cup of coffee (we ran out of tea bags). Working in an office that provides me free coffee and tea is probably responsible for this. I need a cuppa every morning and every afternoon. Need to get out of this habit and fast.
We leave the resort and walk towards the theatre (can you call it that?). On the way we pass through the front of Cardamon County and see this.
^^ Yup, gotta get my free bees. (Looks like it’s not just Club Mahindra).^^
We’re early at the place as I want to see the Kathakali makeup being applied. The place has two sheds – brick and cement structures with asbestos roofs. The one in the front is the place for Kalari and the one behind is for Kathakali. It’s around 05:15 and after asking at the front we move back to have a look at the Kathakali make up being applied. We’re unable to find this as none of the doors are open and so we go back to the front and ask again. This time someone comes with us and opens the doors. We enter the room and are escorted towards the stage, There are some parts of the costume on the stage.
The makeup is happening in a room behind the stage. We can see it happening though a door but I want a closer look. We remove our footwear and go up on the stage and onto the room. The story for today only has two characters, a male and female. They are both played by men. There are very few women who take up Kathakali. We are provided with some chairs and I observe for a while and then we start talking. This is one advantage of knowing the local language.
The male character has been putting on his make up for some time now.
All the makeup is done by the artist himself, i.e. except for the beard. That is done by a makeup man. And by the way the beard is three or four layers of paper.
For the makeup, all the colours used in the make-up are obtained from natural substances and herbs. For example, the red and yellow colours are made by powdering stones like Chaayilyam and Manayola. A mixture of lime and rice flour made for white. The green colour was made by mixing some powder to the white (so much for the herbs I guess). Coconut oil was used as the base for mixing these stone powders. While I did see them rubbing some stones to get the red and yellow, the rest is information that I gathered from them. They seemed to be using some sort of thin stick (only as thick as a broom stick) to apply these colours. The total package takes a few hours. We were there at around 05:20 p.m. and the male character already was in the above state as in the previous picture. When we came back for the show at around 07:10 he was still not completely done! And for the women reading this here’s something to use against your husbands/boyfriends when they complain the next time on the time you take to get ready. In Kathakali, the male characters require around twice the time to get ready as the female characters!
“So, are there schools that teach you this?” “Yes.” “How long does it take to learn this?” “6 years.” What!!! That’s a B.E. and a M.B.A all rolled into one. Six long years and that’s not all. As we talk more on school life, I get to know that a typical day for them starts at around four in the morning! And end time? Late into the night. Six years of this to learn this ancient art, their dedication really needs to be appreciated. I also learn that they’ve travelled around the world performing and that most of their trips are during Onam. He’s even been to Vietnam one year. The lessons are also based on the seasons. So for one particular season (I don’t remember which), their early mornings are spent doing eye exercises to perfect their eye gestures. The next season it’s something else.
“And your performances?” “Well they are mainly for festivals.” “You mean like Onam?” “No, more for temple festivals. We do get bookings for Onam also but they’re mainly from abroad.” I’ve seen these scenes of performances for temple festivals in some Malayalam movies but I really had no idea on the scale. These temple performances are all night affairs. They can start around eight or nine at night and go on until the wee hours of the morning. That’s how long it takes to tell a story in Kathakali! Add to that a few hours to get into costume and that gives you an idea of what these folks go through. I suddenly have a new respect for them. My only prayer is that they make enough money for all the studying they did and all the effort they put in.
It’s time for me to shut my trap as the main person that I’ve been talking with starts putting on his makeup. He’ll be playing the female role for the day.
It’s time for us to move to the Kalari side as the show is about to start. On the way out we take a picture of the hall.
You can see them applying makeup behind stage.
Next – the Kalari show.