[vrprabhu]

That was a long weekend...

... contrary to what anyone else did, just sat home doing nothing (other than watching 'Bridge of Spies' - another excellent movie from Steven Spielberg)....

...which was just to avoid the thronging crowds anywhere and everywhere....

...and took time off yesterday for a long ride - to Kanifnath. Half-a-day drive for Punekars, who want to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city...

(Brace yourself for a long post!)

Route : Shivajinagar - Kondhwa - Bopdev Ghat (& beyond, but that is for another time; don't know if I have the patience to edit and upload so many pictures. BTW, 30 is the maximum picture one is allowed to upload at a stretch. Too bad , because I believe a picture is worth a thousand words!!)

This is how it went -

Took about an hour to reach here from Shivajinagar :



My faithful ride of 10 years!



Glad to get out of this - Pune is fast turning into a concrete jungle





Man made lake and lake side property, at a premium, I guess..



The winding ghat begins - it isn't that twisty, still there a couple of sharp turns, reminding the driver that you are going away from Pune....





Just a small doubt & no offense intended - I have seen all the rural folk riding their bikes with the ubiquitous 'Gandhi' topi, sitting firmly on their heads. How do they manage to do it? In fact, the wind was buffeting so hard, that I was finding to difficult to maintain my balance :-(








At the top of the ghat, I saw this beautiful vista, and a perfect spot to spend a whole day undisturbed


the small temple is the perfect spot I meant, now zoomed in



And, this is what lies ahead...




You crest the ghat pretty quickly -


- only to realise that you have left the city pretty far behind and have climbed quite high!



The climb down after the ghat is moderate.

Keep a look out for the HP petrol bunk to your right. A little later you have to turn left towards Bopgaon, to reach the temple.



And soon, you will catch the first glimpse of the temple (for those who have driven on the Dive Ghat, you would have definitely seen this temple after you cross the turn overlooking Mastani Talav)







Since there were very few vehicles on the road, stopped here and there and tried to click whatever attracted me. Three village boys, riding triples, shouted -"Amche photo gheya, Kaka" - and I obliged!



The 'tilak' on their foreheads-



One of them was smart enough to tell me to share the pictures through whatsapp!!




In a short while, you can reach the top of the hill where the temple is situated, and it welcomes you thus -




On your right, there is a small 'Dutta' mandir, which is where I go first-



To reach the main temple, one has to climb these stairs -




(There is a kutcha road on which you can reach a spot which is behind the temple and park your cars)


This is how the temple looks from below-




(Reached the limit of pictures)

[vrprabhu]

One of the reasons for visiting the temple is its location - you get an awesome view from the top of the surrounding country side. It's generally calm and peaceful, with only a handful of visitors. I learnt that the temple has been named thus because of the saint who discovered the cave was Kanifnath (Kanobha) i.e. one who was born from the ear of an elephant! Eagle eyed readers would have observed an elephant statue in one of the pictures, which depicts the saint being born through its ear.

The second reason is the mode of darshan. The shivling is inside a room, the access to which is through a small window about 2'x2'. Looking at the size of opening, you will wonder whether it will be possible to scramble through - but it isn't as tough as it looks. You go in with your head first and exit feet first - that's it! (only men allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum)

Alas, some kind of commercialism has crept in - one has to discard the clothing and wrap around a saffron dhoti to have darshan, which are freely available.

But, the charm of the temple remains, as these pictures will reveal -

View from the top (towards left) -




Towards the right -




And the temple spire looms over the greenery-






Hanuman paying obeisance to the lord at the foot of the steps...




The are a few steps and not a steep climb, even though the picture looks otherwise



Reaching the top, the majestic temple greets you -



Some random shots of the temple - it was really picture pretty and the blue sky against the colourful spire was a good contrast -











After spending a little time, it was time to return -

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by vrprabhu

After spending a little time, it was time to return]

Thanks for the lovely mini-travelogue, vrprabhu. It looks like a nice spot for a half-day trip. Do you know if it would be crowded on a Saturday?

Cheers,
Vikram

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by comfortablynumb

Do you know if it would be crowded on a Saturday?

Don't think so. Like I said, there wasn't much crowd during any of my visits (four times) and didn't have to wait more than 10 - 15 minutes to enter the cave.

You can go like this -> Kondhwa - Bopdeo Ghat - Hivre - Saswad - Dive Ghat - Hadapsar.

This will be a round trip of about 80 to 90 kms.

Plus point - excellent road (re)laid on Dive Ghat now; blasted down in less than 15 minutes

Minus point - Horrible traffic from end of Dive Ghat till the Bhairoba Nala Chowk (BRTS lane will be empty, but the other lanes will be choc-a-bloc with traffic - this section took about 40 minutes)

There is a Shiva temple (one more!) in Hivre. On the day of my visit, there was some pooja going on, so couldn't spend any time there. It is usually empty. These are the pictures -













One word of caution - don't come back by Bopdeo Ghat in the night. There have been lot of thefts / waylaying reported in this area. On Sundays there are police patrols to control revelers (tipplers, mostly, I guess) and I try to avoid such company :-)

[paragsachania]

Thanks for waking this thread up vrprabhu! Been a while that I saw any updated here.

Bopdeo ghat and the surroundings are just fantastic. Pune itself is located right there on the Western ghats that you get magnificent view of city almost any side you venture except mat be east.

Whether it is Mulshi, Shingahad, Katraj - You don't fail to get the best glimpse of the city when you turn your head back.

What is even more awesome is the fact that it hardly takes an hour or a little more to get to the nearest "Hill Station" from the city center.

Monsoons and the next 2 months after that are perhaps the best times to be in and around Pune.

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by vrprabhu

...and took time off yesterday for a long ride - to Kanifnath.

You had mentioned once about this, haven't been able to visit it yet.

Just a small doubt & no offense intended - I have seen all the rural folk riding their bikes with the ubiquitous 'Gandhi' topi, sitting firmly on their heads. How do they manage to do it?

Wild guess, they would have oiled their hair for topi to stay firmly on their head.

Three village boys, riding triples, shouted -"Amche photo gheya, Kaka" - and I obliged!

You have very good connect with locals, remembered photo of Deepak at Bhigwan.

[rajarams]

And while you are on a trip to Kanifnath, stop over at the Kodit Mhaskoba Temple. A relatively new temple, there are many shrines inside.






Location: https://goo.gl/maps/QvrKPhPrNvq

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by sukiwa

Wild guess, they would have oiled their hair for topi to stay firmly on their head.

Hmm... may be it helps the topi to be "sticky" as opposed to 'slippery' which is normally we associate oil with ??

Originally Posted by sukiwa

You have very good connect with locals, remembered photo of Deepak at Bhigwan.

Rural ambiance is best experienced in Western Maharashtra! (at least in my experience).

Sadly, Deepak and family appear to have migrated. But had a good chat with the owner of the fields during last visit (have been invited for a day's stay there!)

Had been to Bhigwan thrice this season - Diksal was reeling under water scarcity (see earlier posts).

I have found a couple of more spots for bird watching - so planning four trips this winter

Originally Posted by rajarams

And while you are on a trip to Kanifnath, stop over at the Kodit Mhaskoba Temple.

Great. Been a while since I traveled on the road from Saswad to Kapurhol. In fact, the temple at Kapurhol (Ketkavali?) - yet another Shiva Mandir - is another ancient temple worth visiting .....

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Bopdeo ghat and the surroundings are just fantastic.

Thank you for your kind words. Yes, you have to see it to believe it. Pictures hardly do justice to mother nature....

Originally Posted by paragsachania

What is even more awesome is the fact that it hardly takes an hour or a little more to get to the nearest "Hill Station" from the city center.

Exactly. But, sadly, things are deteriorating quickly - if you had seen some of my earlier posts, it will make you wonder where Pune is heading.....

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Monsoons and the next 2 months after that are perhaps the best times to be in and around Pune.

You hit the nail on the head. Come monsoon, the whole atmosphere changes. It even prompted me to share some magical moments!

Will spend tomorrow in arranging some snaps, and hopefully will be able to share a tale shortly......

[vrprabhu]

OK, here goes....

A tale of two forts, which are a study in contrast - literally, figuratively etc. etc.

One trip was done in peak summer and the other during monsoon.

Paragsachania was bang on when he commented on the ideal time for tripping; so part 1 of the tale will be like this -

Destination - to visit the king & his fort :




And, this is where it is -




Some magical moments on the way -




The regular companion!




Some interesting sights....



(the square hole, near the top, appears to be manmade?!)


There are multiple routes to reach the fort (for Punekars, especially!)

The straightforward way - Pune - Khopoli - Pen - Kolad - Mangaon - Raigad. Probably the easiest and fastest way.

Want an adventurous drive / ride? Try Pune - Mulshi - Tamhini Ghat - Nizampur - Mangaon - Raigad (there is supposed to be a route directly from Nizampur to Raigad, but haven't ventured there). Probably the shortest and twistiest route.

Want to test your skills as a driver and the limits of your vehicle? Try Pune - Kapurhol - Bhor - Varandha Ghat - Birwadi - Raigad. (Birwadi in summer looks like an eerie desert, with sparse in-habitation and leafless trees...). Long route with plenty of beautiful scenery and thin traffic. Drive up and down the Varanda Ghat will make it worthwhile....

[vrprabhu]

... cont'd

A general thumb rule which I adhere to during trips is to take a (working) day off and leave before 6.00 AM.

Generally traffic is sparse, and allows you to park at good spots sans the crowds and have a good breakfast - fresh & hot! - at some roadside eatery.

These are some of the scenes (via Khandala, Pen route) :-

Come Monsoon, Western Ghats turns into emerald green - readers from Chennai (which was where I was, before I landed here) can turn green with envy (must be still hot there, any rains?)















On a lovely & lonely ghat road early in the morning!



Mumbai Pune e-way, a couple of shots of the tunnel for the road and the rail






Can you count the number of waterfalls in this picture?



Here is the zoomed shot, to help you


And, if you are really early, you can have this spot all to yourself...

[vrprabhu]

..... & the climb begins!

To go to the fort, one has to reach the base village called Pachod (Pachad?). As you approach it, there will be hairpin bend, going up - this will lead you to the steps from you start climbing. A slight downward road leads to a few houses, where the rope way is based.

The fare for two way ride, and may have to wait a while. (Working day - so hardly three or four people, when I went). There are two cable cars. Initially it appears to be tiny and much like the ones on a ferris wheel. However, once you are sit inside and the car climbs up, the panorama unfolding will make you forget everything else -

Aerial view of the village beneath. Parking won't be an issue. There will also be several people enticing you with an offer of 'ghar-ka-khana' (gharghuthi jevan, in Marathi) when you return.









Didn't time the ascent, but it was quite short. The wind and smattering of rain and the clouds rolling is still fresh in my mind!








This is what drives / controls the cable / ropeway at the top (the motor is situated further inside a shed, which is also the alighting point)




Definitely not meant for those with acrophobia!

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by vrprabhu

Been a while since I traveled on the road from Saswad to Kapurhol. In fact, the temple at Kapurhol (Ketkavali?) - yet another Shiva Mandir - is another ancient temple worth visiting .....

This should be the Baneshwar temple at Kapurhol. Wonderful serene place. The botanical garden they have developed is wonderful.

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

This should be the Baneshwar temple at Kapurhol

Errr... isn't Baneshwar the one on the right (while going towards Satara) i.e. towards Bhor side?

The one which I meant was towards the left i.e. after crossing the Balaji temple at Narayanpur.

To continue my tale, during the cable car ride you will be mesmerized with scenes like these. The shades of green and the lush paddy fields are treat to watch.

[vrprabhu]

Once inside the fort, there are plenty of things to see.

At least a couple of hours are needed to cover the various points.

Being a working day, the crowds were sparse, and I could get several pictures devoid of people.

Some of the spots reminded me of 'Dil Chhahta Hai' film - the backdrop was similar (I think it was shot in Goa)

Must have been quite an imposing structure in its hey days, as it was the king's palace...

Remember the tale of Hirkani? A brave mother climbing down the hill in the dark so that she can tend to her infant son (the gates were closed after sunset in those days and no one inside was allowed to go out)? A trip to the fort is essential to understand the courage of that woman.

Of course, other reasons to visit was to see the kings 'Samadhi' and take a look at 'Tak Mok Tok' point (supposedly the place from where prisoners were thrown off!!)

Here are the first lot of pictures, the first set -

[vrprabhu]

This was the residence of the queens.

The pictures don't do any justice to the actual monument (especially the eyesore in the form of some houses / sheds built later)

Also felt sad that such epic structures aren't being preserved and given the care they deserve.











From afar, one can catch glimpse of the final resting place of the great Maratha warrior....