After a long 7 months in Kolkata, we returned to Delhi on 19th March. Started from Kolkata on 17th, took a break on 18th in Varanasi and reached Delhi on 19th. To avoid city traffic, we planned an early start at 4:30 AM, but sadly, was immediately caught in a HUGE truck snarl even before we crossed Dankuni. After 10-15 minutes, finally the road cleared. The road till Panagarh is 4 laned, and 6 laned afterwards. The small potholes which we encountered 7 months back, appears to have been repaired. Tarmac was excellent till Dhanbad.
After Dhanbad, we were expecting horrible roads, like we witnessed 7 months ago. To our very pleasant surprise, we saw this:
Roads have drastically improved by now. Although the Jharkhand stretch was still the slowest since there are many diversions still, overall, the road quality is light years ahead from what we had seen on our way to Kolkata.
Since the road was quite good and the Jharkhand stretch is the most scenic, we took quite a lot of breaks
The bridge over the Sone river did not have too much traffic, but we saw many of these tractors carrying sand. In fact, some parts of the road resembled a mini desert, where the tractors stop due to traffic and sand gets blown everywhere.
The advise I received from this very thread was the Sasaram toll remains generally empty during the afternoon, and I am glad to have followed it.
Since we started at 4:30, we reached Sasaram around 3:30 PM, and it took hardly a minute to cross since I was behind 2 cars.
Another happy surprise was in store, as we didn't see the long line of trucks on the outskirts of Varanasi. Well, we did see this, on the Kolkata side, but honestly, this was a midget at around 0.5 KM. The snarl which we saw on the Delhi side 7 months back was easily 5-10 times longer than this.
So, the only snarl we faced on that day was the horrible traffic before Dankuni, where we least expected it.
We were on the outskirts of Benaras by 5:30, but it took a further 1.5 hours to reach our hotel in the cantonment area. I have driven to Varanasi only once before(while going to Kolkata), and at that time I felt that driving there is same as any other Indian town. Maybe it was because the domestic tourist industry was still almost shut down at that time (ironically, the total COVID count was probably way lower then). This time though, driving in Benaras was a whole different experience. Some time back, I read a survey has said that Kolkata has the best drivers in India and Delhi the worst. I'm sure whoever did the survey has never set foot in Benaras. I did not spot a single working traffic light in 3 days(either they were switched off or were blinking yellow). And as expected, traffic was basically a free for all.
We found this hotel from MakemyTrip and it was quite good as well as VFM. The only thing was: none of the staff wore masks. We found it to be quite strange as nowadays, it must be a rare occurrence indeed.
With no other option, we liberally used the sanitizer spray which we were carrying all over the room.
We spent the whole day inside the hotel as it was too hot outside. The only thing I did was fill the car up and the tires. The weather turned pleasant during the afternoon and we decided to visit what Varanasi is best known for: ghats.
Rail bridge inside the town.
There are many boats offering a ride down the river. My suggestion will be to opt for a manual row boat. They are quite small and you can rent one for yourself only. The boats with a motor fitted and larger and take on almost 20-30 tourists per trip.
The river and the town made for a beautiful sight.
The famous ghats..
This is the Darbhanga ghat with the Darbhanga palace. Now this palace has been converted to a luxury hotel, but sadly, they have demolished almost half the palace while doing so. Kolkata also used to have a Darbhanga palace where 'The 42' now stands. Satyajit Ray's fans will recognize this as 'Machli Baba's' place in
Joy Baba Felunath.
We pulled up alongside dozens of other boats to watch the famous Ganga Arati.
Watching the ongoing Arati..
The fancy boat is the Alaknanda from
Alaknanda Cruise. I was not aware of this company before, definitely something to try out next time you are in Benaras.
After the Arati, we moved upriver till Manikarnika Ghat, after which, the boat will turn back and drop us from where we had embarked
This is the Lalita Ghat, and the construction that you see is for a parking lot (as per our boatman) for the visitors to Kashi Vishwanath Temple
We requested our boatman to drop off near the Dashashwamedh Ghat since we wanted to explore the famous lanes of Kashi. After getting down, the first thing we did was visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Since cameras are not allowed inside, there are no pictures. One thing I must mention is the entire neighborhood of the temple has been demolished, for the construction of the Vishwanath corridor. After paying obeisance to the Lord, we returned to exploring Kashi.
Man Mandir on the Man Mandir ghat, constructed by Maharaj Jai Singh of Jaipur.
Exploring the lanes of Kashi on foot is an experience which is not to be missed at any cost. Unfortunately due to less than adequate light, I do not have any 'uploadable' pictures. But in the evening, with very less people around, we enjoyed it thoroughly, guided only by GoogleMaps. By the time we reached Darbhanga ghat, it was almost 9, so we called it a day and returned to our hotel.
Started for Delhi next morning at 6AM.
The road till Prayagraj is a superb 6 laned highway.
We took a break on the outskirts of Allahabad. The road bifurcates here, one going inside the town while the highway goes to Kanpur.
We actually wanted to try the road via Kanpur, so we went straight. But, soon after, the quality changed with numerous diversions and suddenly, it was Jharkhand all over again. After reaching Kanpur, we looked for a way to reach the Agra Lucknow Expressway but it seemed we had to cross the town to do so. It was almost 2 and traffic was a mess, so reluctantly, we decided to continue on the highway to Etawah. Thankfully the roads improved after Kanpur and we didn't encounter any bad stretch till we joined the ALE in Etawah. In hindsight, though, I think the Rae Bareli route is the one to take, in spite of the slightly longer distance and the bad condition of the road between Allahabad and Lucknow.
Yamuna Expressway at last..
We reached Greater Noida by 6 PM, however, the horrible Delhi traffic ensured that we reached home after another couple of hours. It was a strange feeling, driving on the familiar roads after a long 7 months.
The car performed admirably as usual. Fastag also worked flawlessly. Only thing is the Agra Bypass and the YEW do not accept Fastag, so you have to pay by cash. All the other toll plazas accepted Fastag.
I must say I never thought driving this long is a feasible option in India, especially for me, since I always try to avoid driving during the night. But after this 3000 KM round trip, I will try to drive home again if I get a long enough break
