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Old 20th April 2025, 23:57   #1
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Chasing stripes in Ranthambhore

Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve (RTR) was instrumental in kick starting the Project Tiger when it was in 1973. The conservation efforts put in at that time had given the impetus to this noble cause.

I, being from Jaipur, have a special place in my heart for Ranthambhore. The recent trip to RTR came during the Holi visit to Jaipur. Booking gypsy safari at RTR is recommended as Canter makes too much noise and with half hearted drivers and guides of Canters, they enter later than the safari time and leave from the safari gate early. However, booking a gypsy seat in a prime zone of RTR (Zone 1-5) needs to be done well in advance as they fill up as soon as the booking opens. The booking experience has been very good since Rajasthan Wildlife department has come up with a new website to book safaris (Website link: https://obms-tourist.rajasthan.gov.i...-Tiger-Reserve).

Though the efforts since Project Tiger have proved fruitful as it has put RTR on the world map for Tiger sighting, a few drivers and guides here seem unserious about the job, which really sours the visit sometimes. My first visit to RTR was in December 2016 just three months after the world-famous tigress Machli (T-16). Often called “Queen of Ranthambhore”, RTR gained global fame due to iconic sightings of Machli.

During this visit I was reading the book ‘Living with Tigers’ on Ranthambhore by Valmiki Thapar. The book mainly revolves around Zone 3 of RTR and so all the famous Tigers’ stories I was able to imagine while doing safaris. Fortunately, I had booked 3 out of 5 safaris in Zone 3 which is the prime real estate of RTR as most of the famous tigers of Ranthambhore ruled this area which has picturesque backdrop of Ranthambhore fort and Jogi Mahal. Zone 3 has always been a favorite ruling area of the Tigers with an abundance of water due to three lakes in the area, Padam Lake, Rajbagh lake and Malik Lake. With water comes prey base for the Tigers which are plentiful here.

The current queen of this area is Riddhi tigress, and she has three sub-adult cubs. With the cubs now confident to roam around on their own and on the verge of separation from mother, there is bountiful sighting in Zone 3 mainly and at the peripheral Zones 2 and 4. Out of 3 safaris in Zone 3, I had blockbuster sightings in each of the three. The unique thing about sightings at RTR is that the jungle is so dry that sightings are unobstructive. So, whenever there is sighting, it is very good!

During the time of this visit I was reading book “Living with Tigers” by Valimik Thapar which is primarily the Tiger sighting experience of the author in the initial years of Ranthambhore. The incidents revolve around places primarily in Zone 3 & 4, like Jogimahal Gate, Padam Talab, Rajbagh, and since I had safaris in these zones, I was almost able to picturize the book which elevated my safari and book reading experience.

The thrill of the jungle always has me counting down the days till I return.

Here are some snaps from December'24 and March'25 trip:

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One of Riddhi's cubs in morning safari on a December morning.

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Riddhi's cubs in playful mood.

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Ocelli: Nature's built-in rearview mirror.

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All three of Riddhi's cubs lazing around Rajbagh lake, one of them looking curiously at potential prey.

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Are you here for me?

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Female cub from Riddhi's litter from Mar'25.

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Male cub of Riddhi who was on the lookout for his mother.

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The male cub above moved to cool off in water.

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Frail Arrowhead! She has taken refuge near the Jogimahal gate.

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Royal Riddhi with her two male cubs. Sadly, couldn't get clear image!

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Dynamic duo of Zone 3!
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