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10th February 2025, 17:07
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| Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Note: It has already been a month, and I’ve only been able to upload a small portion of the videos so far. I’ll continue uploading them as I find some free time, but I don’t think it’s a good idea to delay the blog for the videos. For those interested in watching, please stay tuned for new uploads and updates—I’ll link them periodically as they go live. In December 2024, as winter cast its icy spell, we finally set out on the long-awaited journey to Manang—a trip that had been postponed for two years. What was meant to be an adventure in December 2022, testing the limits of our THAR, now proudly named "Snow Leopard," took an unexpected turn due to an accident. Instead of navigating the rugged trails of Manang, we found ourselves exploring the beauty of Kashmir during the same period. If you've followed our travelogue https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...r-kashmir.html, you already know how plans changed. But every setback has its silver lining—over the past two years, my brother gained the confidence and skill to take on any road with ease. And now, with experience on our side and an unfulfilled dream calling, we knew it was finally time to conquer Manang. Manang is often called the "Crown Jewel" of the Annapurna Circuit Trek, offering breathtaking views of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Manaslu, Mt. Annapurna, and the iconic Mt. Machhapuchhre, also known as the "Fishtail Mountain." Locals refer to Manang and Mustang as “Himal Pari Ko Jilla,” meaning "the district beyond the Himalayas," a name that beautifully reflects the charm of these places. The journey felt like stepping into an entirely different world. At times, it was as though we were exploring a unique part of the Himalayas, completely separate from the regions we had visited before. While both Manang and Mustang are fascinating destinations in Nepal, to me, they feel completely different. Mustang offers wide views that give you a true sense of a cold desert. On the other hand, Manang feels narrower in many areas, as if you're traveling through a tight space surrounded by tall mountains on both sides. The lush greenery along the way makes it hard to believe you’re in a cold desert. It's only a few kilometers before reaching Manang that you begin to feel the desert vibe. I'll share more details and pictures of Manang as I describe the journey day by day, but for now, let me finish up a few other things. Legacy: It was March 2017 when I visited Mustang, accompanied by my trusted companion, Lazy Turtle. Back then, there was hardly any information available about Mustang, and I wasn’t sure if my RWD Bolero would be up for the challenge. Interestingly, even after 7 years and 9 months, people continue to post videos on YouTube with thumbnails claiming “1st Indian road trip to Muktinath.” Organizations like India Book of Records even issue certificates for such trips, including one from November 2018:
Claims of "first trip," "epic journey," and the like will always exist. But honestly, if you’re someone who loves traveling and exploring new places, does it even matter? Whether it’s the car, the hotel, or the camera, what truly counts is how deeply connected you feel to the place and how much it ignites your passion for discovery. Enough of the philosophy, though cause I hate it — let’s dive into the journey and relive a slice of what we experienced! Preparation: It's winter, and we were heading to Manang, so there was a lot to prepare. The most important things were getting the vehicle ready and taking care of our health. I didn’t spend much time researching the place or watching videos, but my brother did. He spent hours watching videos about the roads and even memorized the names of most of the villages on the way to Manang, which I realized during the trip. Meanwhile, I focused on packing essential items we might need to ensure a safe journey back home spent the first day of 2025 with family. The price of a Mahindra THAR-LX 4x4 MT in Nepal ranges between NPR 65,00,000 and NPR 80,00,000. Therefore, it’s crucial to ensure the vehicle is in excellent mechanical condition to avoid breakdowns, as recovery or repair can be very expensive. Below are the list of things that we carried on the trip which might be useful:
Camping Equipment:
Other Utilities: Permit Procedure:
You can get a vehicle permit, called "Bhansar," at the border itself. All border crossings provide this service. The cost is NPR 600 (about INR 375) per vehicle per day. I’m not sure if you can extend the "Bhansar" while in Nepal, so it’s better to pay for 1-2 extra days beyond your plan just to be safe.Sample Permit -  
You don’t need a tourist permit to visit Nepal. For Manang, you need a permit from the "Annapurna Conservation Area" office, located a few kilometers after Besisahar. The office is easy to find because it’s right next to the road with a big signboard. A picture of the office is shared below to help you recognize it. Office location picture -    Sample Permit -   Currency Exchange: Although this is not part of any permit process, it might be useful information. You can exchange your money at the border with an exchange rate of 1:1.6, and there’s no limit to the amount you can exchange. However, the Indian BSF may check the cash you’re carrying. Typically, they allow INR 20,000–30,000 per person, but this can vary depending on the duty officer’s discretion. In our case, we didn’t face any issues and carried 48,000 NPR and 5,000 INR with us. Most fuel pumps accept INR, usually at an exchange rate of 1:1.5, although some may agree to 1:1.6. Glimpse: Feeling overwhelmed by all this information and procedures? Same here! Let’s take a break and dive straight into some highlights and the story.  A serene escape into nature.  Modernization connecting people and nature  Mountains of clouds  Standing with PRIDE  Where time stands still  HIDE & SEEK  Who doesn't want that BACKDROP  Escaping from the grasp Itinerary:
  to be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:56. |
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10th February 2025, 19:18
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10th February 2025, 23:17
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Journey: Day 01: Kolkata - Forbesganj (Bihar) Nothing special happened today. We decided to use the Koshi Barrage entry point instead of the Raxaul-Birgunj border to avoid the crowd, as it’s less busy. Also, the road from Kolkata to Dalkhola has improved a lot, so it was much easier and faster to get there. We started a bit late because we knew we wouldn’t be able to cross the border the same day. Still, we reached Forbesganj quickly and had a comfortable drive. We could have gone a bit farther after Forbesganj, but we weren’t sure about hotel availability, so we decided to stop there for the night. Day 02: Forbesganj - Bhimnagar - Koshi Barrage - Mahendra Highway - Bharatpur ( Napal ) The plan was to reach Pokhara the same day, but I had a health issue. While taking a bath, I suddenly got a muscle cramp in my neck and left shoulder. At first, I thought it would go away in a couple of hours, so I asked my brother to drive while I rested to recover. Before we got to the Koshi Barrage, the Indian BSF checked the vehicle. They asked about the cash we were carrying, but the officer didn’t check it (amount of cash) and told us to go to the Nepal Bhansar office. The Bhansar office was 2-3 km from the BSF checkpost and was already open, so we didn’t have to wait long for the permit. At first, the officer didn’t want to give us a permit for more than 7 days, but after hearing our plan, he agreed to give us a 10-day Bhansar as we requested. Near the Bhansar office there are few agents available for money exchange, we did the exchange there only for the entire trip. As time went on, the pain in my neck got worse. When we were driving on the rough parts of the Mahendra Highway, the pain became too much. I had to stop at a medical shop and buy a cervical collar for support. I spent most of the time in the co-passenger seat to rest. We reached Bharatpur in the evening. Although we could have easily made it to Pokhara, as finding hotels there is never a problem and I already had some contacts from my previous visit, my health wasn’t good enough to continue. So, we decided to stop early and rest in Bharatpur. We checked into a comfortable hotel, had dinner at a nearby restaurant, and called it a day. We decided that if the pain continued, we would head to Pokhara and rest for another day. If I felt better, we could skip Pokhara and take the Manang road, planning our next stop somewhere between Besisahar and Manang.  No Camera Day, only one snap Day 03: Bharatpur - Pokhara ( Nepal ): The distance to Pokhara was short, but this trip felt very different from my last visit. As we got closer, I could recall the views from before, but everything else had changed – the roads, traffic, and surroundings were completely different. There was dust, smoke, road construction, and traffic jams, making the journey very tiring. By the lake, there was a big crowd. We checked into a hotel close to the lake, and after freshening up, we found a restaurant with a lovely view of the lake. A walk, some lunch, and a bit of shopping helped us relax. To show how crowded the lakeside has become, I recorded a couple of videos (shared below). Honestly, Pokhara now feels overcrowded and has lost its earlier charm.                 Pokhara is known for its stunning view of the Fishtail Mountain, which is still as beautiful as ever. However, even in late December, there was no snow, which didn’t match what I had imagined. Adding to the disappointment, unorganized electric wires and optical fiber cables were everywhere, blocking the views. Finding a good spot for a clear photo feels like a special skill – one I don’t have. Overall, the wires everywhere are ruining the beauty of Nepal, even in remote areas. To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 14th February 2025 at 22:35. |
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11th February 2025, 22:26
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 04: Pokhara - Udipur Valley - Bagaicha, Simpani - Dharapani ( Nepal ) After resting for a day in Pokhara, my shoulder and neck felt a bit better. At least I could turn my head slightly to check the side mirrors or lean out of the window if needed. That was manageable for a highway or hill drive on tarred roads, but for Manang, it was going to be tough. We didn’t have much choice since we had already used up one buffer day and needed to save another for weather or vehicle issues. We left Pokhara early in the morning and headed toward Besisahar. The first 15–20 km were similar to the previous day, with roads full of dust and wires. It was so dusty that stepping outside or even finding a spot for breakfast was difficult. We kept wondering if the road would stay like that all the way to Besisahar. Thankfully, after 15–20 km, we reached beautiful roads with stunning valley views, which continued up to Udipur Valley. Driving through Udipur Valley felt a lot like being in the valleys of Uttarakhand at times. The name "Besishahar" comes from two Nepali words: "Besi," meaning "lowland" or "plain," and "Shahar," meaning "city." It is the last lowland city where people returned during winter after traveling around the Manang circuit. It is also the last place where you can buy trekking gear like hiking poles, shoes, and jackets before heading to higher altitudes. We didn’t stop there because we had everything we needed for our journey.             A few kilometers later, we found the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) office to get our permits. It was easy to spot, right next to a smooth tar road, which was the last paved road of the Manang circuit. We already explained the permit process earlier, so we won’t go over it again. After getting the permits and driving 2–3 kilometers, we officially entered the Manang circuit. Sometimes it felt like there was no road ahead, but wooden arrow signs showed us the off-road path. You don’t need a 4x4 vehicle to travel here, but if it rains or snows, a 2WD vehicle might struggle.  To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:51. |
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11th February 2025, 22:32
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 4 continued ... After crossing Syange, it felt like we had entered a new world. The only Indian vehicle we saw was the Bolero Pickup 4x4. Most other vehicles were "Foton Tunland." There are many hydropower projects in the area run by "Power China," and most of the construction work is done by Chinese engineers and supervisors. To get a great reward, you have to choose the right path. There may not be a "wrong" path, but the easy one is always the opposite of the right one. Once again, just like before, wonderful rewards awaited us. The cool, clear rivers, blue and green, flowed beside us, always there. Sometimes, after a turn, a snow-covered mountain peak would appear, and we passed many different waterfalls, each one special in its own way. The journey was tough, but with rewards around every corner, it was so inspiring that I forgot about the pain in my shoulders and my poor health. We took several breaks along the way, just to get a little closer to nature since we weren’t in a rush. Finally, we reached the famous "Octopus Waterfall." I had seen it in videos and photos before, but it wasn’t until I was sitting right in front of it that I truly understood its beauty. It took me a couple of minutes to realize that I was sitting right there, with the water droplets falling on my face and head coming from the very same waterfall. By the time we got there, it was already 4:45 PM, so we decided to stop at the nearest place to stay. The closest option was Tal, but we saved that for the return journey since it was another beautiful spot to explore. We drove another 10 kilometers to reach Dharapani and ended the day there. This was the first night of our trip where we entered the zone with negative temperatures.       Octopus Falls    To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:54. |
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11th February 2025, 22:45
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 05: Dharapani - Koto - Pisang - Manang ( Nepal ) The morning was sunny but very cold. We had breakfast with some food we brought along to save money. We realized how expensive food was in the circuit when we asked for two flasks of hot water and were charged 200 NPR. The farther we moved from Beshisahar, the higher the food prices, while room prices became cheaper. We continued our journey and soon reached a place called Danaque. Along the way, we saw many waterfalls on both sides of the road—some were frozen, while others were flowing. Then, we came across the most dangerous part of the road, where we had to cross a temporary metal plate over a waterfall. Earlier, this bridge was made of bamboo and wood, as seen in old videos. Construction was underway, and a permanent bridge would likely be built soon.           After crossing this section, the landscape changed dramatically. Snow-capped mountain peaks became visible in front of us and in our rearview mirror. We passed through Timang and Koto before finally reaching Pisang. A few kilometers before Pisang, the landscape changed again, and we saw a massive mountain made of a single rock. It looked like a giant stone wall. The road conditions improved, with a new concrete road under construction.                    To be continued ... |
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11th February 2025, 22:50
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 5 continued ... As expected, food prices continued to rise with distance. In Pisang, a simple meal of rice, dal, and mushrooms cost us 750 NPR (470 INR) per person. Though basic, it was delicious. Initially, we planned to cook our own food since we had all the necessary equipment, but we decided to save our effort for later in the journey. Thankfully, filling our flasks with hot water and having tea along the way didn’t cost much, thanks to our camping gear.                              to be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:43. |
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11th February 2025, 23:32
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 5 continued ... As we continued our journey, the landscape changed again at a sharp turn. It felt like we had suddenly entered a different world. Until now, we had been traveling through forests with high mountains on one side, making the view somewhat narrow.   the different world But here, the landscape opened up wide, revealing an endless range of mountains in different colors. It felt as if we had been waiting for this moment, and we finally understood why Manang is so special. From where we stood, Manang was visible but still far away. Yet, there was no doubt in my mind—it was truly beautiful. As we continued driving, we realized we had crossed a high-altitude pass. Moving downhill, we reached a flat area surrounded by towering mountains. There were very few people around, and the vast open space reminded me of Wun Weg Wun Dar Wun from Game of Thrones—it felt like a giant’s football field.         Giant’s football field We decided to save Green Lake for the return journey, as Manang was just a few kilometers ahead. To make the most of the daylight, we took several breaks between Bhraka and Manang. We spent time sitting beside a frozen lake, walking across wooden bridges, and listening to the sound of the flowing river. The silence of the place was the most peaceful part of the journey. Once we had soaked in the beauty, we drove the last few kilometers to Manang.                  To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:42. |
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11th February 2025, 23:46
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 05 continue ... Finding a place to stay in Manang was easy, as most lodges were empty. We chose one close to the parking area. Cars are not allowed inside the village, so we had to park outside the Manang gate, where the overnight parking fee was 200 NPR. It was around 4:00 PM when we arrived, and the temperature had dropped to -18°C.    Almost there ..      When we leave Chame, UN manang it was -18 degree Near the parking area, we found a restaurant that stays open all year. The owner was a kind man, and we had a great time chatting with him, learning about life in Manang. Since we had brought extra diesel, we left our jerry can and drinking water storage in his shop overnight to prevent them from freezing. Then, we checked into the ‘Manang Hotel’.   Manang Hotel      Some of the menu item. The cost of water and tea here was shocking. Earlier, we were surprised to pay 100 NPR for a flask of hot water, but here, it was 700 NPR. Staying hydrated is essential at high altitudes, but the price was too high, so we made our own hot water. For tea, coffee, and light snacks, we used our own supplies and only ordered one plate of dinner to share between the two of us.  Mobile capture  To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:30. |
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12th February 2025, 22:20
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 06: Manang - Khangsar - Gangapurna lake - Green Lake - Pisang - Tal (Nepal) Spending the night without a high-quality sleeping bag or proper winter clothing could have been a real challenge. When I woke up in the morning, the temperature had dropped to a bone-chilling -27°C.  Morning at Manang I had faced such extreme cold before during my winter trip to Kaza, but back then, the rooms were well-prepared for it. The walls were made of mud, the beds had heated mattresses, and room heaters were available. But here, things were different—no heated mattress, no room heater, and the walls were made of cold stone. If nothing else, I had one thing to be grateful for—my decision to buy a -20°C sleeping bag from the Indian Army canteen at a very low price. That single choice saved me from a freezing night and sleep peacefully! At the same hotel, we met a couple from the Netherlands who were trekking the entire circuit. Their guide told us that visiting Tilicho Lake wasn’t worth it because it was completely frozen. The lake and the surroundings looked the same, like a white carpet. He suggested that we first visit Gangapurna Lake in the morning, as it was in Manang itself, and then decide whether to go to Tilicho Lake or not. We didn’t have a strong plan to visit Tilicho, but since it’s unlikely we would return to Manang again, we were considering it. So, we packed everything before leaving Manang Hotel and decided to plan further after visiting Khangsar and Gangapurna Lake. As I mentioned earlier, the owner of the restaurant near the parking area was a very kind man, so we decided to have breakfast there. It turned out to be a great decision! The food choices were limited, but the cost was only a half or even a quarter of what hotels in Manang charged, and the owner was very caring.  Naturally frozen, inside the small restaurant After breakfast, we drove to Khangsar. From there, Tilicho Peak and many other peaks looked very close. At times, it felt like we could reach them with just a few steps! But of course, that was just an illusion—I had no idea how much effort it would actually take to get there.       Khangsar            Random snaps while returning from Khangsar Next, we visited Gangapurna, which was an easy hike of just a few steps. We spent a little time there and then decided it was time to wrap up our Manang journey and head back.    Gangapurna Lake To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:28. |
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12th February 2025, 22:30
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 6 continued ... Sitting inside the car, we couldn’t feel how cold it was outside. But every time we stepped out and walked around, we could feel the freezing temperature, made even worse by the strong, chilling wind. The real force of the cold wind hit us while crossing the hanging bridge on the way to Green Lake.   Last couple of snaps from Manang After parking the car, we crossed a long hanging bridge over the river and then hiked a short distance through a pine forest to reach Green Lake. The view was breathtaking! The lake’s fresh, vibrant color was so beautiful that it instantly lifted our spirits and re-energized us for the rest of the day.     Green Lake and the way to Except for a few random stops, we spent the rest of the day driving back towards Tal on the same road. We chose a hotel where the beautiful Tal Waterfall was visible from every window.      On the way from Manang to Tal The village itself was stunning, with a river on one side and tall mountains with a beautiful waterfall on the other. The gentle sound of the waterfall could be heard throughout the village, creating a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.         At Tal And that was the end of our Manang journey. We ended the day with a hot shower and a refreshing meal, finally getting some comfort after two days of a tough journey. Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:25. |
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12th February 2025, 22:36
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 07: Tal - Nagarkot There isn’t much to describe about this day—it was mostly spent traveling. We were running low on money because we had done some unplanned shopping in Pokhara. Our plan was to use a credit card to refuel the vehicle so that the remaining cash would be enough for the trip. But we couldn’t find a single petrol pump that accepted credit cards. We then tried several ATMs to withdraw money, as international withdrawal was enabled on our debit card, but all attempts failed. So, we decided to limit our daily budget.  Lunch at Beshisahar We reached Nagarkot at 9:00 PM, and it was completely dark. After checking a few hotels, we found a beautiful place called Fulbari Resort. It was a little outside Nagarkot, with a wide, open view in front.      Random on the way to Nagarkot   Reached Nagarkot What made this resort special was its owner and his three friends. All four were childhood friends, born and raised in Nagarkot. Every evening, they gathered to spend time together, playing guitar, cards, or just relaxing when there were no guests. Their warmth and friendliness made us feel very comfortable. We had a wonderful evening, sitting around a fireplace, chatting, and enjoying their company.    An evening spent with friendly company To be continued ... |
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12th February 2025, 22:43
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 08: Nagarkot - Nagarkot Panoromic Sunrise Point - Panchkhal - Kalinchown / Kuri Village ( Nepal)   View from our stay at Nagarkot In the morning, the first thing we searched for was cash. After looking around, we found a medical shop in Nagarkot Market where Scan-Pay through a UPI app was working. The shop owner kindly agreed to give us all the cash he had, and we paid him using Scan-Pay. I’m sure he must have faced some trouble throughout the day since it was morning, and running a business without cash would have been difficult. But he was so kind that he even told us to come back in the evening if we needed more cash—he was willing to help again to make sure we didn’t struggle during our trip. Thankfully, the cash he gave us was enough for the journey, along with a little extra for emergencies. I am truly grateful to him, and I will always remember his kindness. His name is Race Dudhkhush. I never imagined that Nagarkot Panoramic Sunrise Point could be so breathtaking. Even with a slight cloud cover, making it difficult to capture its true beauty (at least for me, though not for experts), the view was mesmerizing. The landscape seemed to stretch endlessly, with a stunning 270-degree panorama of countless snow-capped peaks. It instantly reminded me of the 360-degree view from Kartik Swami Temple in Uttarakhand. I regret not having any good pictures to share, but even more, I regret not having words rich enough to truly describe the magic of that moment. After visiting Nagarkot Viewpoint, we headed towards Kalinchowk / Kuri Village. This was the most joyful drive of the entire trip. The roads were super smooth, making the drive enjoyable, and we had a continuous wide view of multiple mountain ranges along the way.    Wide view from Nagarkot We passed through beautiful villages, met smiling locals, and felt truly happy ourselves. Though it was a bit cloudy, just like in the morning, it didn’t take away from the beauty of the journey. The last few kilometers to Kuri Village were a bit tricky, but for a Thar, it was an easy ride.      Random snaps while going to Kuri village. The evening was freezing, and for a short while, we experienced light snowfall, but unfortunately, it didn’t last long. It would have been even more magical if the snowfall had continued for hours, turning the place into a picture-perfect winter wonderland. The locals call this place a "mini Switzerland," and from the photos I’ve seen, it looks stunning when covered in snow. However, we weren’t lucky enough to witness that.         At Kuri Village We spent the evening wandering around the village, chatting with some young locals, and enjoying great food—thanks to the cash we got in the morning. The day turned out even better than we had expected. To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 22:00. |
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12th February 2025, 23:04
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 09: Kalinchowk - Kadambas - Dhukikhel - Dumja ( Nepal ) This was the official last day of our trip. After saying goodbye to everyone, we began our journey back home. The past few days were packed with plans and long drives, so we didn’t get a chance to take good pictures of Snow Leopard (our vehicle). We took a few breaks to click some photos—for a little show-off and then continued towards the BP Highway.    Morning at Kuri Village         Returning from Kuri              Showoff time ... To be continued ... Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 21:59. |
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12th February 2025, 23:07
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| Re: Another Driving Expedition through the trekking Trails - Manang, Nepal Day 9 continued ... By the time we reached Dhulikhel, the sun had already set, and we had to decide whether to stop for the night or continue. To make the next day's journey easier, we decided to drive a bit further and cross the bad patch of BP Highway, which had been damaged by the last earthquake and floods.               Random snaps on the way to Dhulikhel The last time we drove on this highway in 2017, it was a smooth and enjoyable road. But this time, there was barely any road left! Most parts were submerged under the river, and we had to cross many rough stretches in the dark. Locals told us that the road after Nepalthok was in great condition, so we decided to stay there for the night and enjoy the beautiful drive in daylight. Last edited by PointZero : 15th February 2025 at 21:57. |
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