We have no international travels for now and I was just wondering if we can do some adventure tour within India. It has always been in my mind for some weird reason to avoid large public gatherings for fear of stampeding etc. This is one of the reasons we avoid going to Tirumala on the most auspicious days of Brahmotsavam even though we are donors and have access to some privileges and it is our home state.
Maha Kumbh mela comes after twelve 12 year cycle kumbhs which means once in 144 years. I am not sure if anyone on this planet had ever witnessed this last time. I told my wife that we should now dare to attend the Maha Kumbh as the exclusive Kumbh app I have downloaded has information which gives some confidence. On further research, I came to know that one crore people attending per day and some 40 crores attending over the complete duration is something hard to imagine on how any city can handle the same.
I was doing my research on teambhp as usual for route map from Visakhapatnam to Prayagraj. For some reason I am not comfortable with this route. Meanwhile my wife said we need to go to Hyderabad immediately for some personal family reasons. I told her that I am comfortable with the route from Hyderabad on to Prayagraj and we decided on the route. Then comes the next question when we are returning back. As I am retired, there is no need to come back by a fixed date and there is no agenda for the tour. We prepared as usual for our long drives with our portable coffee making machine etc and we know the drill as Jimny unlike my other car Crysta has limited real estate and we have special baggage which fits into Jimny for 3 people to survive for multiple weeks long drive.
I asked my mother in law who is 85 years old if she is OK with long drive to north India, she immediately said NO but after telling the route of Prayagraj, Varnasi and Gaya, she immediately said YES. Then she asked by which car we are going as she travelled on many long drives in captain seat of Crysta and she was not able to sleep like in traditional 3 seater at the back. I told her this time we are going in Jimny and she immediately packed her baggage with pillows etc to lie down in the backseat for few hours just in case. For some reason she says Jimny is more comfortable than Crysta.
Day1: Started at 7 am from
Visakhapatnam. We wanted to cover Visakhapatnam to Hyderabad on a single day optimistically but not very sure as all 3 passengers are senior citizens. Fortunately the spirit is very high due to the excitement of participating in one of an event on this planet namely Maha Kumbh. We reached Hyderabad by 5 pm same day. The traffic in the city is crazy as usual to our night halt stay.
Day2: Fortunately, our personal family issue turned out to be good and nothing to worry. We felt this is good sign which brought positive vibes for our next destination. The family obligations delayed our long journey to post lunch which made my plans change as I don't usually drive more than 10 day light hours in a day as I am the lone driver. We had to stop at Adilabad instead of Nagpur for an overnight stay. The route is very scenic with forest etc.
Day3: Started as usual at 7 am from Adilabad without any plan for our next night halt. The route is very scenic with a tiger reserve forest on the way. Surprised to see the highway fenced on both sides so that wild animals don't cross the highway. The only major city I am aware on route is Jabalpur but we crossed that in broad daylight and still have few hours of drive left for the day. I asked my wife to ask ChatGpt for an advise and she spent some time and made sure we are not deviating too much from our Srinagar - Kanyakumari highway for overnight stay. Usually all important towns are located at least 10 kms distance from major highways. We did a night halt at Katni. This city seems to be the largest rail junction in India.
Day4: We started from Katni at 7 am and reached Prayagraj by afternoon. This is when the drama started with traffic. This day being Republic Day, every car we see has a different state registration and looked as if whole India is on the path to Prayagraj. I expected traffic restrictions to Triveni Sangam due to the most auspicious day of 29th January (Mouni Amavasya). But fortunately the special traffic restrictions start only 48 hours before January 29 and 48 hours after. This is kind of scary as it seems cars will not be allowed beyond 30 kms from sangam ghat. Fortunately we just missed this restriction and were allowed to park our car upto 2 kms to Sangam ghat. The last 10 kms to Prayagraj took us 4 hours. This really tests one’s patience to limits. I parked my car near Yamuna bridge amongst a sea of cars in the parking lot. The entrance is controlled by fast tag and is secured and they give a receipt which needs to be validated on exit. We should appreciate UP Govt for making this massive arrangement with temporary iron plates on the ground so that cars don't get stuck. Only VIP cars were allowed on the last 2 kms and for the rest it is a walk. We asked police for help as we have 85 year old senior citizen. I cannot communicate in Hindi properly as my second language is French and my pre engineering education is abroad and never had an opportunity to learn Hindi in Indian school. My wife is a double post graduate in Hindi literature and she is my spokesperson. The police helped for the last 2 kms connection for our 85 year old senior citizen and myself and wife walked. Later we observed that unofficially some local people with pass are giving some rides on their personal scooters and charging Rs 150 per person for 2 kms.
We reached the Sangam ghat at 4 pm and just in time for the last boat ride. There are about 2000 boats to ferry people to the Triveni sangam for a dip to the holy waters. Usually they charge Rs 1000 per person and each boat can handle about 6 people. Life jacket is a must and a lot of special life guards are all around for emergencies. It is sea of people and boats all around and the crowd management is good and never had the feel that safety is compromised.
We negotiated the price of 4.5 K rupees for complete boat exclusively for us and reached the sangam. There is a distinct change in colour of the water where Yamuna meets Ganga. We performed the special puja to the holy rivers and had a dip. (There are a lot of opportunities for people around us to cheat but I am spared because I don't understand their language fortunately). My observation is that everything is done in a very systematic way like clock work by the locals and there is a deep devotion and gratitude amongst all tourists. The manual paddled boat ride is an experience by itself and the boat rider was telling us that they have been in this profession for many generations.
We came to the parking lot and wanted to have dinner as we never had any food for the day due to my wife insisting that we do this puja and dip at sangam without eating. My priority is leave the city ASAP before the mouni amavasya crowd comes in and special traffic restrictions come to effect.
We were stuck on the Yamuna bridge for 3 hours on way out to Varnasi due to some collision. Finally we came out of the city with traffic moving inch by inch. We had finally something to eat after midnight. We stayed overnight in a hotel on the outskirts. All rooms are being charged double or triple of the normal days.
Day5: We started to Varanasi as usual at 7 am from Prayagraj. The journey is supposed to take less than 3 hours but it took us 7 hours. It took us 2 hours for the first 10 kms to exit Prayagraj and 2 hours for last 10 kms to reach our place of stay at walk distance from temple in Varnasi. I think the tsunami of humans at Kumbh are also coming to Varanasi as next destination. We are planning to stay for 9 days in Varanasi as my wife believes that anyone staying for 9 days in this holy city will not have any more births and gets moksha.
It is surprising to see the signboards in Varanasi written in our language Telugu besides English and Hindi. I felt it’s is a great honour. I realised later that there is a huge presence of people from Andhra in this holy place. We had our lunch and dinner at one of the Telugu ashrams where they offer free food and accommodation.
Small break on highway:
Map showing the last leg connectivity:
Yamuna bridge with train crossing:
Ghat entrance:
Big boat only for viewing and not for dip in sangam:
View from our small boat on the river:
View from our small boat on the river:
View from our small boat on the river:
View from our small boat on the river:
Return journey at sunset:
Dip in river after the puja:
Below are some photos from Varanasi, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabitable cities. Unbelievable sea of humanity (mainly due to Maha Kumbh crowd) and great street food. Many streets are closed and I had a great time moving my narrow bodied Jimny in the narrow lanes as detour competing with two / three wheelers. I think Jimny is best suited for such streets near to the temple.
Had a nice and peaceful Darshan of the Lord. I see a stark difference in architecture between Tirumala and Varanasi. This is my first visit in 60+ years at Varnasi and we grew up visiting Tirumala every year. I also observed huge difference in the way crowd is managed at both places. Both look efficient and effective in their own ways.
We finished our dip in Sangam at Prayagraj and also had Darshan of Lord at Varnasi just in time before the Mouni Amavasya crowds come in.
It seems there is a stampede as per
news below: https://www.indiatoday.in/india/stor...659-2025-01-29