[Majumdarda]

So what do you do, if you have your leaves approved but a not so satisfactory experience from last year's Motoverse experience?

You still travel! (but with updated plans and destination)

Somewhere around Ooty and Gudalur



I had in-fact submitted my leaves probably around May/June, though both the heart and mind wanted to try something else. You see, the last year's MoteVerse experience still pales when I compare with 2014's, but I am sure its primarily because the mind has not been able to keep up with the pace. Anyways, though the leaves were approved, the location wasn't.

Then one day, while going through a session of ShuMar, a word stuck me, Bucket List. Yes, do I have anything to add to my bucket list of rides. The Sun rise to Sun set ride (Puducherry to Mahe), though it fascinated but in order to fulfill that ride, my agility has to be increased. After all, it will have to be from Pune and back. So what next!

How about the much talked about Coastal Ride then, kissing the Arabian Sea? Well it would probably start from the southern most point of India and extend all the way till Gujarat, but then how about a subset.

Kozhikode till Gokarna seems to be satisfying the urge and Google suggested a distance of approximately 450 Kilometers. So yes, its a addition to my Bucket List.

In trying to decide as to how to reach Kozhikode from Pune, I considered the option as Pune, Hospete, Mysore, Ooty, Kozhikode, Gokarna, Pune.

While the plan was still being drafted, one of my RM buddies called me up and this topic popped up. He also wanted to try out something other than Goa in November and thus I ended up suggesting this trip.

A plan was agreed and we decided to add in a few more days to the itinerary, if we can move out by a Saturday from Pune. So, the updated planning was as follows

D1 Pune to Hospet via Solapur
D2 Hospet to Ooty
D3 Rest
D4 Ooty to Gokarna via Udupi
D5 Rest
D6 Gokarna to Goa --> Customary Goa Stop, thanks to my buddy
D7 Rest
D8 Goa to Pune

Complete liberty for me to decide the route while he would be taking care of the food and lodging, but on the go and no advance booking.

While this was still being finalized, I also got to know that there are two ways to reach Ooty, one will be via the Masinagudi and the other via Gudalur. There are 36 hairpin bends in the stretch via Masinagudi and therefore there is also an entry restriction in times of timings. I had missed photographing the Gata loops as I was racing with the KTMs of our group, but this time, I would not forget to cherish these loops.

So back to the drawing board and the updated route plan turned out to be as follows. First Rest day gone (and to be followed by many as the plans changed)

D1 Pune to Hospet via Solapur
D2 Hospet to Mysore
D3 Mysore to Ooty via Masinagudi
D4 Ooty to Gokarna via Udupi
D5 Rest
D6 Gokarna to Goa
D7 Rest
D8 Goa to Pune

With my riding partner's leave finally getting confirmed, we decided to start on 9th November early morning. A few more iterations though were required, but the route plan fortunately was not required to be changed much, albeit the fact, could we try Hampi.

Buddy had come up with the name and so did the flashback from History pages of the Chariot (little did we knew that in order to see the Chariot one has to travel further and we could not, owing to time)

Moving to the Day1 --> Friday 8th November. Start time approx 03:30 AM with Odometer reading at 16023





Since I stay at PCMC and the day's destination being Hospete (Hampi), we have to travel towards Solapur and therefore we decided to connect in front of Nobel Hospital. While practice makes a man perfect, the daily practice of taking a right at Wakdewadi wasted much time, since Army movement was happening and the "U" turn was restricted. Thankfully when I had reached the junction, the last of the Pontoon-Bridge trucks were moving.



After the customary photo shoot , we embarked on this memorable ride only to be rattled continuously by the moving trucks and the chilling cold. Its always a good idea to wear the Raincoat over the riding jacket, but that is something, which I chose to keep in my tank-bag though continuously I wished to have it worn. Height of being lazy

We stopped at this location so as to ensure if we are still on the right path and this location, per google, seems to be near to Patas. Its another experience to drive in the the cold winter morning with the bladder requesting to make a stop every now and then, which follows by a bout of chilling cold.



The second stop was on the Solapur highway since our tummies were crying out loud and Tea/Poha was the need of the hour. Morning rides with nothing as a fixed destination has its wonders, I must agree. Since we had to bypass Solapur we were also thinking that should we take the bypass or go straight. Traveling without the live Gmaps (intentionally) was a decision very difficult to keep up with.



The Solapur bypass lacks even a simple food joint and together with the rising sun, 10 AM seemed to be 12. Thankfully we got a roadside Rajasthani Dhaba, though the food was not tasty, but with the accompanying road conditions, it tasted awesome.



At one of the petrol pumps to cool up both the ride and the riders.



Hospet was not much far from here and since we had ample time in hand, we pushed towards Hampi and finally reached around 5:30 PM. Though the road goes through the city but since traffic was less, we could reach in time since the Mandir complex gets closed by 6PM (is what we were informed.)

We rode straight towards the Group of Monuments at Hampi and managed a night stay for a little less than 1000. Food-ing is just around the by lanes, though not much options are available. Since we were informed by the locals that the enclosure will close by 6PM, we just parked our Bullets and Baggage and went straight for the sight seeing.













After moving around the place for sometime and coming to a conclusion that there is actually nothing much apart from a few hotels for food and gift shops, we had our dinner.

Odometer reading : 16643
Distance travelled : 620 Kilometers
Route : Pune to Hampi via Hospete

We will now travel to Mysore, enjoy the Palace and the surprise part!


Day 2 --> Sunday 10th November. Start time approx 05:30 AM with Odometer reading at 16643

Getting a comfortable sleep in a small bed is quite a distant dream, more so if you are to think about your Bullet parked under the open sky, though thankfully not too far!

We woke up early and was ready to move out around 5:30 ish, though we could have moved out earlier, but tying the bag proved some task under the very dim lighting. Since the exit road is just by the side of the Virupaksha mandir, the idea of seeking blessings from Lord Virupaksha could just not be avoided.



Had our breakfast at the sole eatery we found opened at around 8 AM just after crossing over to NH48 from NH50





We also observed couple of riders from some group doing this stretch early in the morning and that prompted for a quick photoshoot for Amun-Ra too, somewhere near to Hiriyur





For the urge of adventure and as a result of misunderstanding we had left the NH at some point and ended over on SH 150A, which is still being developed. Now once I refer the map and the points, I reckon that we should have probably gone towards Sira, Tumakuru and then towards Mysore, but we had went towards Huliyar after Hiriyur. Anyways, the roads are not bad but there is a lack of working petrol pumps in this section. Also Amun-Ra had hit the reserve. After riding for nearly 35 odd kilometers with mounting discomfort, I finally located a pump Only to realize that it caters to the trucks. Good part is that there was another one available at some distance which had fuel. Suddenly, I also started to feel dehydrated after fueling up Amun-Ra and therefore a stop for Sugarcane juice proved much energizing. Mysore is not far from here.







Finally we entered Mysore somewhere around the afternoon and after winding through city traffic ended up staying at Mysore Royale (1400 per night). The hotel is good but covered parking might be a constraint for big cars. Bonus is that this hotel is within walking distance of the Palace.

Getting refreshed and post filling our tummies we ended up at the palace around 4:30 PM and with a ticket price of 100 (or was it 120?) we could visit the Palace halls etc. It was a rejuvenating experience. I would let the pictures express themselves.

















Being a Sunday, there was considerable crowd at the premise and I had read somewhere that crowd management should be a concern for the management. Somewhat agree to that! But overall nice experience.

[Majumdarda]

While coming out of the palace around 6PM, I casually asked one of the vendors as to why such a huge crowd is still pulling in. In fact, it seemed that there is a total different section of crowd who are just arriving.

And this is the surprising part of the day. I was informed that being a Sunday, the palace lighting show will continue for an hour and its free! For rest of the weekdays, the lighting show is just for 10 minutes. Wow, it would have been a grand miss had we just left that day.

And what a marvelous experience we had; such grandeur accompanied by the hum of the band, would have been a killing miss, had we just left that day. Thanks to the kind vendor!











After spending some more time at the premises we left around 7:30ish, walked the lanes as the hotel is pretty near to the city circle before calling it a day.


Day 3 --> Monday 11th November. Destination would be Ooty via 36 Hairpin bends (Yes, I needed to feel those bends, no matter which ever route it takes)



There are two route options to reach Ooty, and the one I am interested is via Masinagudi. Distance for the day is not much (approx 130 KM) and we decided to keep it slow! Also the route would cover tiger reserves like (Bandipur, Mudumalai) so the added excitement to be able to catch a view of a tiger or an elephant.

Its another story as to what we could have done if indeed there was a Tiger / Elephant spotted while we are on the Bullets. I am sure the Bull is mighty but is that mightier! Moreover, I am definitely not! And I am sure Ra would not have been able to locate me here from Egypt!

Nevertheless, the first stop was at Bandipur Tiger reserve. We stopped here since we saw a couple of families in cars looking at something. Later we realized, its the ancestors they were secretively admiring (the monkeys!)





Travelling a bit further we saw some deer and quickly clicked a few.





As we continued towards Masinagudi there was a check post, but with none manning this, we just crossed it. One is advised to have a online pass from (epass.tnega.org) while entering the Nilgiris, but since none requested to show the pass, we just moved along. At night I got to know that buddy was not able to create the same.

As we continued to climb, a completely different picture started to develop. Willys! I have never seen such a plethora of colorful Willys ever, and they are all working, with a few working service stations just to cater to these mystic cute machines. Unfortunately, I was so engrossed to see these beauties chugging around here and there, otherwise parked shinning like a diamond, that I missed clicking a single image of these. That's a miss for sure. If ever I do this stretch again, I will for sure remember to click these Willys. They are just too good to be forgotten. The thing missing was probably a Mahindra Classic, and that was also fulfilled when I saw an old gentleman driving the Classic wearing a tweed coat up the slopes at Coonoor. The vehicle, the driver and the environment are all "just one".

Anyways, we entered the 36 hairpin bend section after this, and understandably there are no still pictures clicked but I had started the video before entering. The loops are quite fascinating, though the ones at Gata are quite wide (as there is open space all around) these seemed to be narrower since there were occasional vehicles plying and overgrown everywhere. I am sure this road would have looked far better around the blooming season accompanied by mystic fog. But I am satisfied.

36 Hair Pin bends > Check Marked !

Amun-Ra soaking in the morning sun, basking in glory while I decided to click the veggies around.





Around mid day we entered Ooty and urbanization has hit the habitat hard.



After entering Ooty, my buddy took over the responsibility of finding a heart satisfying stay and we ended up travelling to and back from Coonoor, a good tiring part of approximately 40 kilometers, to come back to the original one where we had stopped initially

It so happened that after we reached Ooty, the accommodation rates seemed to be on the higher side and non-satisfactory. So after looking at a few, buddy decided to move towards Coonoor. So we headed towards this dream place. Enroute we crossed the Wellington station and identified the photo-op location where I am sure many click images of the toy-train travelling and a bridge. I always assumed that one is required to jump off the train to capture that image, but the sweet spot is available just on the road, besides the underpass. One just needs to climb a few steps and then wait for the moment for the train to cross.

Anyways, Coonoor seemed to be more hustle bustle with local crowd; we tried a small hotel at Checkinn Today, which is located at a bit secluded place. Since the establishment was closed we called up the number displayed and My God! What a barrage of questions and inquiries, even before someone is willing to show the room? The manager/owner then wanted us to wait, while he fetches someone to show us the accommodation. Since none contacted us even after 15 minutes, we decided to move on. We checked at a few more but they were all full. At last, buddy proposed to again go back to Ooty

Anyways back to Ooty (this time I rode very slow so as to enjoy the beauty to the fullest, with cloud, cold winds, wow) while buddy tried his choice at a few locations, before settling down with Welback Residency. This facility is very near to the center of Ooty tourist location, right on the road that leads towards the station. Also there is covered parking, but might be an issue if there are more number of cars. Saw a couple of drivers struggling with clutch release, though the location is not that steep after all. The room rate was INR 2500.

We had plans to enjoy the Toy Train but that had to be cancelled because we were informed that the last train leaves from Ooty around 6PM, which does not return the same evening; thus we have to take the bus from Coonoor back. Also tickets have to be booked in advance and therefore even if we want, we can only take the ride for the next day. With Toy Train trip getting cancelled, the next spot we decided were the Botanical gardens, just a mere 2kms from the hotel. Decided to walk the way, though its not that far, but walking on the slopes requires a strong back. Anyways, this place was good, quality time can be spent with family here, though we blokes moved around aimlessly.









We also encountered this picturesque church while going to the garden



My back pain resulted my mid to realize that enough of local info has been gathered, resulting in prevailing of better sense, forcing me in hiring the services of a Auto to come back to the hotel, paying INR 100.

Since there was nothing else to do, post completing dinner we decided to call off for the day around 10:30ish. But before this, I had to again alter the route. Reason is buddy is not feeling comfortable with these stretch rides and wants to break this before reaching Gokarna. Back to the drawing board and referring google, below is what we finally agreed. Google suggested a near to sea line experience post Kozhikode; locals also informed that its better a road to reach Kozhikode and then take the route onwards, rather then going via Udupi. So updated plan as follows

D1 Pune to Hospet via Solapur
D2 Hospet to Mysore
D3 Mysore to Ooty via Masinagudi
D4 Ooty to Payyambalam Beach via Gudalur, Kozhikode
D5 Rest
D6 Gokarna to Goa
D7 Rest
D8 Goa to Pune

Day 4 --> Tuesday 12th November. Destination would be Payyambalam Beach



We started around 08:30 AM and this time it was a different route, the change happened around Vinayagar Temple. While coming we had come from the right side and this time we would be going towards the left side, which goes towards Gudalur. There is a police post over there, which was busy checking for car documents while we had entered the city, the other day.

And the scenic beauty just started from the corner. After a few turns, I imagined myself to be teleported from Ooty to Sonmarg with these tall trees and their light brown bark. Not sure how many times I stopped in this stretch till Gudalur, but every turn opened up a different view altogether. I was probably in this belt till 10:30ish.

















Right after we crossed into Kerala there was a mobile check post which noted down few details and wanted to confirm if I am going towards Kozhikode. While I wondered for a considerable time as to how are the authorities aware of my itinerary little did I assume that it my buddy who had informed the authorities. I was so engrossed with the beauty, that this little logic never materialized. Only at night when I was sharing my side of the road experience, did I realize this connection.

We had stopped for lunch at a food joint on the Mavoor Calicut Road called Kissa Restaurant around 2 PM before heading towards Kozhikode. While we waited for the lunch, encountered slight rain over here, thankfully the roads did not turn slushy.

Distance from Kozhokide till Payyambalam Beach is not much and we reached Hotel Blue Nile Resort around 5:30 PM. This time I directly entered the premises and buddy was surprised with this deviation in approach. Well, Ooty and Coonoor experiences were still fresh Anyways, not much of options are available on this beach and we got a sea side facing room for 2000.

The room experience was hilarious, something we realized late at night. Basically we had requested for a room which is sea facing and since we were the only one, we got one too. From the balcony, the sea is visible 70% but there was another dilapidated building too, which will anyways capture your attention with its broken windows, frames etc. Later on we discovered that this sea side facing glass facade does not close at all and other than the wind, its the experience of staying very close to a dilapidated building with open doors, worked wonders at night. Somehow your attention always ends up where it should not be, which resulted in we getting up quite early (4 am). In fact by the time I woke, buddy was wide awake!

The Bullets parked under the sky, but within the premise



The sea side view, not too far actually



And the door which worked as morning alarm.

[Majumdarda]

Day 5 --> Wednesday 13th November.

Now, as per the original plan, it was plan for a rest day, but then after we arrived at the beach, this one seemed to be too small. Though this was a clean beach, but hardly there were any eating joints nor anything. Plus, the old blokes got bored.

Buddy proposed to move in the morning since he feels that the distance between the beach and Gokarna/Goa is too long; wanted to check the possibility of a mid way halt.

Chalked out that Murdeshwar falls someway in the middle and that being a tourist spot too, should not find it difficult to get suitable accommodation.

Therefore, updated plan as follows:

D1 Pune to Hospet via Solapur
D2 Hospet to Mysore
D3 Mysore to Ooty via Masinagudi
D4 Ooty to Payyambalam Beach via Gudalur, Kozhikode
D5 Payyambalam Beach to Murdeshwar
D6 Murdeshwar to Gokarna / Goa
D7 Rest
D8 Goa to Pune

We started around 5:30 in the morning and by 6, Amun-Ra got its tank filled up. Stopped for a quick break for tea & snacks around Talapady toll Plaza around 8:30 AM, where I also saw "Touch Me Not" plant. Was not expecting this plant at this location, never the less a video was shared with daughter.

We moved off quickly and around 11 AM we reached a place (Google later helped me identify the name as Mugali. Here the Panvel-Kochi-Kanyakumari highway, after some twisty turns, opens up directly parallel to the Arabian Sea.





I took some videos here, worth mentioning is the section where I was driving on the road, Arabian sea on my left, the road takes a dip and apparently the sky just vanishes, with a feeling that you are going to go into the Sea, straight line. Do not have the literary skills to describe this moment, but its something to realize. A mobile camera does not do justice (Might be a Go-Pro for next time) but the feeling with the Blue sea on your side, the elliptical Earth's surface, and sky behaving as if it has melted with the Sea, is something worth relishing. Not sure if others have realized such behaviors and what is this Geo-Phenomenon called, but its definitely worth a mention and worth sharing with you all.

We reached Murdeshwar around 11 AM and had our lunch at RNS highway Hotel. This is a big facility with food and lodging, but apparently had a deserted look when we reached there.



After spending close to an hour here, my question to my buddy was, do you want to stop here, Gokarna or Goa and the response "Goa". Quite satisfied with the crunching of approx 300 kms in approximate 5.5 hours

So Again

D1 Pune to Hospet via Solapur
D2 Hospet to Mysore
D3 Mysore to Ooty via Masinagudi
D4 Ooty to Payyambalam Beach via Gudalur, Kozhikode
D5 Payyambalam Beach to Goa via Murdeshwar
D6 Rest
D7 Goa to Pune

I have not clicked any pictures after this but its worth mentioning that if the target is North Goa, then enter via Mapusa and not other sections, as it will take you through the city, tiring out completely. Remembering Shumar's words of wisdom that maximum accidents happen when one is close to destination as there is loss of guard, kept me quite attentive, irritated nevertheless.

Since we had stayed at Whooper's Hostel during one of our visits, we decided to go to the same place. We reached at 05:39 PM and then my buddy went to check with the manager for accommodation etc.

The manager informed that there are no free bunks available other than two top berths, but from the look of the place, it seemed empty. Nevertheless, we checked another one just across the road, and rates were damn shocking. 4000 for one night, with not a single ghost of a tourist around and no covered parking. Well, we decided to move ahead and finally got a decent stay booked at JW Heritage at the rate of INR 3000 per night.

See I have been ultimately able to click a picture of the room as we enter





After getting refreshed, we headed out for Anjuna Beach and had a good time over there; somewhat enjoyed a private beach with no tourists around, but many WFHs

By the way,

Coastal Road > Check Marked and One item from Bucket List Ticked

Day 6 --> Thursday 14th November.

The child in me is pretty active and therefore could not resist this colorful palette



For breakfast we visited Sai Cafe located besides Bharat Petroleum Fuel station. Amun-Ra also got its tummy filled up. What a nostalgic composition it turned out with the logo on the shutter and a standard (probably burping merrily)



Visited the Mapusa market after this since wife needs a few spices and the shopkeeper has relocated from Anjuna to Mapusa main market. This market is huge and is a paradise for market lovers. Anyways, before getting lost, I somehow was able to locate the shop, got the stuff and like a goody goody boy with oiled hair, I quickly returned to my parked Amun-Ra, which was parked behind a few buses, probably laughing out at my condition.

The evening was spent purchasing small gift items for daughter while for the dinner, we visited Salt. The food and the ceiling work was quite commendable



While we spent the day and the night pretty well, with memorable experiences, it was time to wind up and head back to Pune. I decided to hit the bed around 11ish. Its going to be a long ride home.

Day 7 --> Friday 15th November.

I woke up around 4:30 AM and below is the view of the neighboring accommodation. Not a single tourist, yet lights are all brightly lit up, from overnight



Finally we started around 5:15 AM with the odo reading for the return at 18086.



There was an overnight drizzle and as a result soon we had to stop since buddies TBTS was acting wierd. It would start and then cough up to a halt. From the sound, it seemed that water has somehow gone inside the sparkplugs. We stopped at a crossing around 5:30 AM and Amun-Ra inspired confidence to the TBTS to keep running. Have a look



Finally after some Mater coughs, the TBTS was ready. For the return journey we first of all reached Mapusa and then onto the NH66 till Puragaon. The NH66 was excellent till now. After having a quick snack and tempted with the road condition, we decided to enter Pune via continuing a bit further with the NH66.

And this decision proved costly. The road surface immediately changed to Lunar Craters and so did my buddy's. I checked with a local over there and was informed that NH66's condition will continue to remain the same for a few kilometers more. We were advised to reach Pali bus stand, then take a right for Malkapur and then towards Karad. The stretch between Pali and Malkapur was quite rejuvenating for the bones and before my buddy could say anything, I just sped off till I reached Malkapur. I miss clicking an image of him as he reached Malkapur with his choicest expletive's, that could be heard even before I saw him!

Anyways, this experience of riding over part broken tarmac, gravel and through clouds of mud was thoroughly enjoyed, the missing part was the rains. From Malkapur till Karad its again pretty smooth, post which we turned on the usual stretch for home.



I reached home by 5:30 PM with the odo reading at 18617.



Ultimately few parting images of my beloved Amun-Ra covered in little mud.







A thorough cleanup was performed on the 17th and Amun-Ra is all ready now








And lastly, Amun-Ra Spec Summarization

Total Distance covered from odometer perspective: 2594 kilometers
Total Fuel: 67.5 L (+/- 4.5 L)
Total Fuel Expense: INR 7155
Actual Odometer Reading post ride completion: 59692+18617=78309

Until another ride then....

Overall Route Summarization

[Aditya]

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