29th June 2024, 02:59
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| BHPian  | California to Yellowstone - A drive across Six States In 2024 June first, quarter, we did an exciting road trip to Yellowstone National Park from the bay area. Starting from California, this journey across the country to the heart of the United States is a road trip I've eagerly anticipated for years. While some of my friends recently opted for a quicker route—flying into Jackson or Salt Lake City and then renting a car to explore Yellowstone, saving themselves 3-4 days of driving—my approach is different. For me, the road trip itself is an adventure. I cherish the experience of driving, discovering new places, and immersing myself in the changing landscapes along the way. Thus, I chose to do the full-length road trip, making the journey as enriching and memorable as the destination.  The West Thumb Geyser Basin  The Icon of Yellowstone – American Bison Yellowstone National Park, established as the first national park in the United States, is situated on top of a dormant volcano. Renowned for its stunning geothermal features and diverse wildlife, the park stretches across three states: Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana. The Idaho and southern Wyoming regions are particularly notable for their geothermal activity, with steam vents and fumaroles dotting the landscape. In contrast, the Montana region and parts of Wyoming, especially Hayden Valley and Lamar Valley, are teeming with wildlife. Given the vast expanse of the park, it has four main entrances from different states. We plan to strategically base ourselves in different locations to maximize our exploration and minimize driving. Our itinerary includes a day in West Yellowstone, Wyoming, another in Cooke City, Montana, and two days within the park at Canyon Village. This approach allows us to efficiently cover the park’s numerous attractions, which are accessible via the North Rim Drive and South Rim Drive. As we drive from California towards Yellowstone, it gives us the wonderful opportunity to visit another stunning national park which is on the way, The Grand Teton National Park, located just south of Yellowstone on the Idaho side. Many travelers include Grand Teton in their Yellowstone itinerary because of its striking natural beauty and the breathtaking and picturesque Teton mountain range.  The Grand Teton Mountain Range  The Grand Teton Mountain Range - another shot In mid-2023, I began planning our trip, mapping out potential routes, key stops, and points of interest, while also making hotel reservations and ensuring our car was ready for the journey. A crucial part of the preparation was managing the car’s mileage to avoid needing a service mid-trip. Given the significant stretches through the arid deserts of Nevada, Utah, and parts of Wyoming, I bought a car refrigerator to keep refreshments. Purchased a "Beautiful America" pass, allowing access to all Federal Parks for one year.. Our vehicle, a 2015 Toyota Highlander 3.5 V6 AWD, underwent a periodic service, including a transmission fluid change. In addition to standard travel gear, we packed a tire repair kit, an inflator, and snow chains, anticipating the diverse and potentially challenging terrains we might encounter. Day1: - Bay Area, CA to Winnemucca, Nevada: - ~400 Miles We began our journey at around 5 AM, traveling primarily along Interstate 80 (I-80) until we reached Idaho. Once outside California, the speed limit on I-80 increases from 70 mph to 80 mph. Our route took us through familiar territory, passing by Lake Tahoe and Reno, Nevada—both of which we skipped this time, having visited them often before. Instead, we made a stop at Costco Wholesale in Reno. Stopping at Costco provided clean restrooms and the opportunity to save on fuel costs. Beyond Reno, the landscape transitions into a dry, mountainous terrain, accompanied by a small river that parallels our route. Unlike typical sand deserts, this area features a rugged, bushy terrain reminiscent of the Wild West, with occasional rest areas or small towns breaking the solitude.  Interstate 80 Our first overnight stop was planned in Winnemucca, a small town nestled in the heart of Nevada. Though small, Winnemucca is known for its nearby sand dunes, a tempting spot for exploration if you’re interested in desert landscapes. However, upon arrival, we were greeted by a scorching temperature of 91°F (31°C). Given the heat, we decided to forego visiting the sand dunes and opted to relax and recharge for the next leg of our journey instead. Day2: - Winnemucca, Nevada to Twin Falls, Idaho: - ~291 Miles As we continued our journey into Idaho, the landscape gradually transformed from the dry, bushy deserts of Nevada to lush, green farmlands. Large-scale agricultural fields became a common sight, equipped with advanced sprinkler irrigation systems that hint at the region's shift towards more fertile terrain. During this time, the area was experiencing a significant invasion of Mormon crickets, a type of flightless insect about two inches long, known for their dark red and brown coloring and the unsettling noise they make when approached. This swarm of crickets, spanning parts of Nevada, Idaho, and Wyoming, was so intense that stretches of the road appeared almost entirely red, caused by countless insects crushed by passing vehicles. Driving on these roads presented its own challenges. Parts of the route were single lanes with bidirectional traffic, and we frequently encountered long lines of semi-trucks closely following one another. This made overtaking difficult, often forcing us to patiently trail behind these convoys until a safe passing opportunity arose.  Idaho  Single Lane Road @ Idaho We stayed in the city of Twin Falls, Idaho, a charming stop known for its proximity to the impressive Shoshone Falls, often referred to as “The Niagara of the West.”. Falling from 212 feet and stretching 900 feet wide, Shoshone Falls surpasses Niagara Falls in height, making it one of the largest natural waterfalls in the United States. Nestled on the Snake River, the falls cascade dramatically through a deep basalt canyon, offering a breathtaking spectacle of nature's power and beauty.  Shoshone Falls, Twin Falls, Wyoming  Basalt Canyon, Twin Falls, Wyoming Day3: - Twin Falls, Idaho to Jackson Wyoming: - ~248 Miles. From today onwards, the landscape transitioned completely to lush greenery. We made a brief stop at Idaho Falls, known for its urban waterfall, though not as spectacular as Shoshone Falls. Continuing our journey, we opted for a more scenic route, venturing onto mountain roads purely for the pleasure of the drive. Specifically, we chose Moose Wilson Road towards Jackson, Wyoming, covering a longer 91-mile stretch due to a landslide that had closed the shorter 30-mile direct route the day before.  Idaho Falls, Wyoming Route from Idaho Falls to Jackson  Along these mountain roads, we serendipitously discovered a dirt path beside a stream leading to an empty campground. Nestled amidst towering mountains and beside a tranquil river, the campground offered a stunning and peaceful setting. It was here that we decided to enjoy our packed lunch, taking in the natural beauty that surrounded us.  Idaho Falls  Our Lunch Break We arrived in Jackson around 5 PM, the closest town to Grand Teton National Park. This town has a small park adorned with archways crafted from elk antlers, an iconic sight of Jackson, Wyoming. After settling the family into our hotel, I went on a solo drive toward the park as dusk approached. The weather, reportedly unpredictable in these parts, started out mild but swiftly transformed upon entering the park. Suddenly, heavy winds accompanied by thunder and torrential rain enveloped the area. The gusts were so fierce that I feared my car might overturn. Amid the wind and downpour, it felt as though hail might follow, threatening my windshield. I decided to pull over, and soon others did the same, seeking refuge from the sudden tempest. The intense weather lasted only 30 minutes before subsiding, returning the surroundings to calm. Despite sunset being 9 PM, the darkened skies by 8 PM prompted my decision to retreat to the hotel.  Towards Jackson, Wyoming  Iconic Elk antlers Arch of Jackson, Wyoming Given the presence of grizzlies in the area, it's advised for travelers to carry bear spray as a precautionary measure—I made sure to have one on hand. The road winds through the Teton Mountains on one side, with snowy peaks contrasting sharply against the lush green plains and distant mountains on the other. Day4: - Exploring Jackson and Grand Teton National Park: - I'm an early riser, unlike my family, so I woke before sunrise for a solo drive through Tetons in hopes of spotting wildlife. While I did encounter some elk and pronghorns along the way, the highlight was the breathtaking morning view of the Grand Teton Mountain Range with a rainbow arching over the peaks. There’s a serene water body formed by a river in the area, resembling a small lake, known for frequent moose sightings. Despite waiting patiently for hours, I didn't spot a moose, but elk seemed to be everywhere.  The Grand Teton with a Rainbow  Pronghorn  Elk  Waiting for Moose Sighting – Nothing Happened  Still waiting  Yellow Warbler - Got while waiting for Moose  Grand Teton and my tween After returning to the hotel for breakfast, we resumed our exploration of Grand Teton National Park. The scenery, while still stunning, didn't quite match the early morning magic I had experienced. The golden light that did the magic on the landscape earlier had given way to the advancing day. We ventured to areas where American bison and elk are protected, spotting numerous herds along the way. However, the highlight of the day from a photography perspective occurred when a red fox appeared before my camera. More remarkable was, the fox caught four rats, providing me with some memorable shots.  A friendly Red Fox  Hunting for Moles In the evening, we went on a hike around Jenny Lake Trail with the kids. We began around 7 PM, knowing that sunset was at 9:00 PM. After trekking about 1.5 miles, we encountered hikers coming from the opposite direction who alerted us to a moose on the trail. I was prepared for bears with bear spray in hand, but Moose was unexpected. Subsequently, another group of hikers also cautioned us, providing details about the moose's whereabouts to prevent any surprises. Moose are considered one of the most dangerous animals to encounter in these forests, even more so than grizzlies, as they can attack without provocation, based on what I've read. Elk, on the other hand, is typically only dangerous during mating season or when protecting their calves. Despite never having seen a moose in person, I decided to take the opportunity.  The Bridge crossing Jenny Lake  Moose From Jenny Lake Trail I instructed the kids to stay on the trail at a safe distance while I cautiously approached. There it stood—a dark, majestic beast standing about 7 feet tall at the shoulders, its color darker and more imposing than in any photos I had seen. The moose's antlers, not yet fully grown from the previous season, added to its formidable presence. Keeping a respectful distance, I managed to take a few quick photos with my phone, opting not to risk using my DSLR given the proximity and noisy clicks (D500). Sensing the need to prioritize safety, especially with the kids in mind, I slowly retreated and decided to conclude our day's adventure and we returned to trail head. Day5: - Jackson, Wyoming to Yellowstone South Entrance to West Yellowstone: - ~212 Miles Today's drive was relatively short but had plenty of key stops. As we were leaving Grand Teton National Park, we noticed several cars pulled over with people peering into the woods, cameras at the ready. There, I caught sight of my first wild grizzly bear. The majestic creature appeared briefly before retreating into the forest.  My First Grizzly Bear Sighting The South entrance, where most of the park’s geothermal activities and geysers are concentrated. Our first stop was at West Thumb Geyser Basin, a fascinating area filled with small pond-like formations. These pools displayed crystal-clear or bluish water, often rimmed with multicolored edges. The distinct smell of sulfur permeated the air in certain spots, a reminder of the thermal activity below. Some areas were exceptionally hot, necessitating fenced-off trails to ensure visitor safety. Aside from the well-known attractions, we also noticed intermittent steam vents releasing fumes from the ground throughout the area. West Thumb Geyser Basin Next on our itinerary was Old Faithful Geyser, the largest and most renowned geyser in Yellowstone National Park. Known for its predictable eruptions, Old Faithful spouts boiling water at an average height of 145 feet periodically. Its name reflects its reliability, with eruptions occurring within a window of about plus or minus 10 minutes, making it a popular attraction for visitors who gather to witness its spectacle. The approximate time of the next eruption is displayed at the visitor center, where wooden seating arrangements allow spectators to comfortably await and marvel at this natural wonder.  The Old Faithful Erupting Following Old Faithful, we visited the Grand Prismatic Spring and Midway Geyser Basin Hot Springs. These sights can be overwhelming for some and repetitive for others, but as a wildlife enthusiast, my focus and excitement lie elsewhere. After our visit to Grand Prismatic Spring and Midway Geyser Basin Hot Springs, we headed to our hotel in West Yellowstone, the largest town near the park's west entrance in Wyoming. Following check-in and dinner, with daylight still lingering at 7 PM, I went on a solo drive to Hayden Valley, renowned for its wildlife sightings, particularly bison. Arriving before sunset, I witnessed a spectacular scene: hundreds of bison peacefully grazing. Nearby, I noticed a group of people focused through a large monoscope, searching for a pack of wolves. The pack, consisting of nine adults and three pups, had recently made an elk kill and dragged the carcass to the other side of a hill. One of the observers graciously allowed me to glimpse the activity through the monoscope but was out of reach for my 500m on a crop sensor body. As I observed the bison in Hayden Valley, they gradually moved closer to the road and eventually blocked it for a few minutes. Among them, I witnessed some males engaging in mock fights to assert dominance. Being the first car near the traffic jam caused by the bison was a bit nerve-wracking. Now, it was time to make the drive back to the hotel.  Hayden Valley, It’s about Bison  The Mock Fight Continues.. Last edited by arunrajk81 : 29th June 2024 at 03:15. Reason: Added youtube link I shot |
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29th June 2024, 03:12
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| BHPian | Re: California to Yellowstone - A drive across Six States Day6: - Exploring from West Yellowstone, Wyoming towards Cooke City Montana- ~90 Miles. After checking out of the hotel, we headed towards Norris Geyser Basin and for a hike along the trail. Being hot, sunny weather, the hike wasn't particularly captivating, and I returned exhausted from the heat. Later, at Lamar Valley around noon, we were greeted by herds of bison, a couple of pronghorns, and elks. In Yellowstone, if you're not adept at spotting wildlife on your own, the next best strategy is to stop where others are using binoculars or cameras—exactly what I did. Here, people were searching for mountain goats, which were introduced to the area long ago for hunting purposes. These goats, white in color, blend into the steep mountain rocks, especially where patches of snow linger. Despite the challenge, this time my camera managed to capture images of the distant mountain goats.  Mountain Goats, far for my Lens  Bison and Red Fox from Lamar Valley Tonight, we're staying in Cooke City, situated on the Montana side just outside the north-east entrance of the park. Cooke City is a small, seasonal town that comes to life outside of winter when road closures are lifted. Cooke City lacks mobile reception throughout the town, making hotel Wi-Fi the sole means of communication. The town is characterized by local restaurants and shops and the absence of corporate-owned establishments. After checking into the hotel and resting for a while, I set out on my usual evening drive to Lamar Valley for wildlife sightings. Along the way, I noticed a fresh roadkill of a red fox and decided to move the body off the road. Several other cars stopped as well upon seeing this. As I approached the fox, I was surprised to see it was still alive and lying in an unusual position, soaking up the warmth from the sun-heated pavement. Moments later, was surprised when two tiny fox pups emerged and joined their mother. She remained in view for quite some time, allowing me to capture memorable photos of this heartwarming scene.  Fox and Pups  In Lamar Valley, I encountered a massive male grizzly bear, despite being far away up in the canyon. Throughout the valley, I spotted several more grizzlies in the distance. Bison and elks roamed everywhere. Additionally, I had the opportunity to observe a coyote, which appeared noticeably paler compared to the ones I've seen in California.  Coyote From Lamar Valley  I came across a spot where a car had stopped, and a man was walking alone into the woods. Sensing the presence of wildlife like a grizzly or wolf, I grabbed my bear spray and cautiously followed in the same direction. It turned out that he had planned to spend the night in the woods observing bison and elk. I too stayed nearby, out of his sight, observing the bison for some time. As night fell, the bison gradually approached closer and closer, unaware of my presence. Sensing it was time to leave before I became surrounded, I quietly moved away from the area. On the way back to the hotel, as it was getting darker, I encountered three moose: a bull and two cows. Now I am alone, so I comfortably waited and took the pics  Moose Male  The next morning, I woke up early for a solo wildlife drive in Lamar Valley. With four packs of wolves known to inhabit the area, my chances of a sighting were promising. Using information I had learned the previous day about a den site, I arrived at the spot just in time. After patiently waiting, I noticed a group of elk behaving anxiously, looking at a particular area. Sure enough, a gray female emerged—she was the alpha female of one of the packs. Eventually, a black wolf also emerged from the shade of a nearby tree. Still, they remained too distant for my camera to capture clearly. After returning to the hotel, we checked in and enjoyed a delicious American breakfast of scrambled eggs, pancakes, and toast. It was quite satisfying. What struck me as unusual in a small, seasonal town like Cooke City was the diversity of its patrons. Despite its remote location, the shops and restaurants we visited were populated mostly by Asians, particularly of Chinese ethnicity. This hinted at a possible migration that happened long back.  Our Stay at Cooke City Day7 and 8: - Exploring from Cooke City towards Canyon Village. On our way once more, we stopped at Lamar Valley and were fortunate to spot a tiny grizzly cub. According to what I heard, a mother grizzly with three cubs had encountered a wild boar, and this cub got separated during the fight. It has been wandering the valley alone for the past one week.  The lone Grizzly Cub Up until now, we've stayed in accommodations just outside the park. However, for the next two days, we'll be staying inside Yellowstone at Canyon Lodge, located in Canyon Village. The cost of our stay here is more than double what we paid outside the park per day, but the lodge offers conveniences such as a general store, gift shop, and restaurant. It may not be as scenic as Lamar Valley or Cooke City, but Canyon Village has the highest concentration of bears in Yellowstone National Park.  A “Brown” Black bear   Pronghorn We encountered a mother black bear with two cubs—one cub and the mother were brown, while the second cub was black. A park ranger joined us as we observed them. After a while, the mother bear began sniffing and showing signs of concern in a particular direction. The ranger noted that she had sensed something she disliked. Soon enough, a male black bear appeared. The cubs quickly climbed a nearby tree, and the mother ascended halfway before realizing her role as a protector. She descended and bravely confronted the male bear. In response to the escalating tension, the ranger urgently instructed everyone to retreat to their vehicles, and we promptly complied.  Mom and Cubs  Mom sensed an Intruder  Another Male Elk In Yellowstone, there's a petrified tree that offers a glimpse into the park's warmer and more violent past. This fossilized redwood tree dates to the Eocene period, about 50 million years ago. It was covered in lava during a violent eruption, avoiding decay by microbes. Genetically, it’s like today's California redwoods, this ancient tree stands alone, protected by a fence. Interestingly, the initial discovery journal mentioned a second petrified tree nearby, which sadly fell victim to vandalism by early visitors. An old archive photo later revealed a third petrified tree in closer proximity to the surviving one. It's a sad reminder that while these trees endured 50 million years of forces of nature, their ultimate destruction came to the hands of humans within the last century.  Petrified Tree Canyon Village sits at approximately 7,980 feet of elevation, offering several viewpoints where visitors can enjoy bird’s-eye views of Yellowstone National Park. Nearby, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and has hiking trails close by. Along these trails, you can discover several waterfalls, adding to the area's natural beauty. During our visit, we went on a boat ride across Yellowstone Lake. While the scenery wasn’t particularly striking, our guide's narration about the lake's history and notable incidents was both informative and engaging. From a certain point on the lake, we could even glimpse the Grand Teton Peak. Interestingly, there are geothermal features at the lake's bottom. The Story goes like that during first try, the temperature-measuring device melted after registering a temperature around 370°F, highlighting the lake's intense geothermal activity. On the way back from the lake, we came across a gathering and decided to stop. Just as we did, a female elk darted across in front of our car. We were initially puzzled about what was happening, but soon realized that a hunt was underway. A grizzly bear was pursuing an elk calf, while the mother and another elk, possibly the aunt, were trying to divert the grizzly's attention. The chase unfolded right next to where we had parked, though the calf was caught within the woods, out of our sight. We were astonished by how fast the grizzly could move, given its size. Unfortunately, despite the adults' efforts, the grizzly captured the calf. We could hear the calf's distressing cries for several minutes afterward. It was unexpected and I couldn’t capture any of these. Day9: - Canyon Village to Salt Lake City, Utah: - ~360 Miles We are now beginning our journey back home, with a few more points to explore along the way. There's a route via Teton that would add only another 20-30 miles, but it would take an additional 2 hours due to the winding mountain roads. We decided to skip this route since we have already visited Grand Teton. During the return journey, we stopped at Bear World, a private park featuring animals found in Yellowstone National Park, excluding wolves. It offers a unique drive-through experience, along with small rides and dinosaur exhibits those kids thoroughly enjoyed. We spent a few hours there, making it a delightful break in our journey. Most of this drive takes us through Idaho, with just a brief corner of Utah along the way. Day10: - Salt Lake City, Utah to Winnemucca Nevada: - ~353 Miles Shortly after departing from Salt Lake City, we encountered expansive salt flats, where we even spotted unauthorized 4x4 tracks in some areas. This stretch includes the renowned Bonneville Salt Flats, where numerous land speed records have been set.  Tree of Utah  Bonniville Salt Flats  After rejoining Interstate-80, despite having taken the same route on our way there, we found it to be the most monotonous part of the entire trip. With a speed limit of 80 mph, the landscape stretching endlessly with bushy desert, and miles of straight road ahead, I once counted a stretch of 19 miles without needing to turn the steering wheel except for overtaking. Day11: - Winnemucca Nevada to Bay Area California: - ~400 Miles. Nothing much, just driving back with a few breaks in between. Home is waiting for us... In total, we covered 3,200 miles, approximately 5,149 kilometers.  My Old Faithful |
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29th June 2024, 07:30
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29th June 2024, 22:51
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30th June 2024, 11:45
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