[kozhissery]

Day 15 – 11-Jun-2010: Leh to Tso-Moriri
Our initial plan was to take the Manali route. After several discussions and meetings with local drivers at the taxi stand, we learned that the road was expected to open in another day or two. So, we decided to try our luck in reaching Manali via Sarchu and loaded up with an extra 15 liters of diesel (we were averaging 17+ kmpl, but wanted to be prepared). We checked out of the hotel and headed towards Tso-Moriri.

With a full day to reach Tso-Moriri"]Tso-Moriri, we decided to drive slowly and aimed to arrive by evening. We had lunch at Chumtang and visited the hot spring, but since it was very crowded, we decided not to take a bath. We caught our first glimpse of Tso-Moriri, a small lake, around 2 PM. The roads from there were terrible (practically non-existent), so it took us another three hours to arrive at Tso-Moriri by 5 PM. The view was spectacular, though it was very dry and cold. We stayed in a tent for the night.

With no network available, we wanted to call home. The nearby military camp was very helpful, providing us with access to their land phones and treating us to hot tea.

On the way to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


First Glimpse of the lake


On the way to Tso-Moriri


Road to Tso-Moriri


Road to Tso-Moriri


Road to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


On the way to Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


In and around Tso-Moriri


Dinner time@Tso-Moriri


Route: Leh->Chumtang->Tso-Moriri
Total Kilometres Covered: 219
Stay: Tented Accomodation
Accommodation Type: Double Bed Tented Accommodation with attached bathroom.
Rate: Rs.2500/-
Hotel Rating: Very good Stay. Good Service, Good Location. But the price is on the higher side. (Price includes dinner and breakfast – even hot water bag, which is really good and it stayed hot till early in the morning)

[kozhissery]

Day 16 – 12-Jun-2010: Tso-Moriri to Leh (via Pang)
We decided to try our luck to go to Manali via Sarchu. Drove almost 10 kilometers beyond Pang before returning as we met a couple of cars/Sumos/Scorpios returning in a group. When enquired we got the information that its not going to open for another week or so (and it was true – the road was opened only after 10 days of our trying). Unlucky for us, we drove back to Leh via Tanglang-la. Anyway we did cross Tanglang-la which was good.

Tent@Tso-Moriri


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Random Photos on the way to Pang


Hotel on the way from Pang to Leh


@Tanglangla


@Tanglangla


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Random Photos on the way to Leh


Route: Tso-Moriri->Pang->10 Kms towards Sarchu and Back->Tanglang-la->Leh
Total Kilometres Covered: 347
Stay: Traveller’s House, Leh
Accommodation Type: Double Bed
Rate: Rs.400/-
Hotel Rating: Cheap and good Place for stay if you can forego the service aspect (like hot coffee early in the morning, lunch etc).

[kozhissery]

Day 17 – 13-Jun-2010: Leh to Sonamarg

All wonderful things must come to an end, and so was our trip. We decided to drive as much as possible, starting very early from the hotel. The drive was quite fast, allowing us to reach Kargil by 11 am and Dras by 2 pm. However, we encountered a significant delay when the road was blocked for over two hours due to “Farooq Abdullah.” When traffic resumed, it was opened in both directions, leading to numerous blockages. The rain turned into snow and hail as we ascended, adding foggy conditions to the mix. Visibility was very poor, and giving way to trucks became a nerve-wracking experience, taking over three hours to reach Sonamarg.

In some places, I had to get down to check the edge of the mountain. With ice, water, and potholes, it was too risky not to walk ahead and guide the car. By the time we arrived in Sonamarg, we were exhausted, both physically (our shoes were dripping and it was bone-chilling) and mentally, so we decided to call it a day there. Without the blockage, we could have easily reached Srinagar, as it's just 2 to 3 hours from Sonamarg.

We decided to sleep early as we learned that Srinagar was under a hartal/bandh, so we needed to cross Srinagar as early as possible before the bandh participants blocked the roads.

Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Random Photos on the way to Sonamarg


Route: Leh->Kargil->Dras->Sonamarg
Total Kilometres Covered: 354
Stay: Some motel
Accommodation Type: Double Bed
Rate: Rs.500/-
Hotel Rating: Very small room but clean linens (why cringe, you are paying just Rs.500). As the restaurant is just adjacent to the rooms, the smell from the kitchen becomes nauseating and its very difficult for vegetarian person (the hotel is a Non-Veg one).

[kozhissery]

Day 18 – 14-Jun-2010: Sonamarg to Jalandhar
We started off very early in the morning towards Srinagar. At a petrol station, we encountered a police officer who requested a lift to the Srinagar Tunnel. To be cautious, we asked to see his ID card and, once verified, we let him in—a decision that turned out to be very beneficial. Being a local, he guided us through some shortcuts to bypass the hotspots of Srinagar. Although we were initially apprehensive when he directed us to take different routes, his knowledge allowed us to avoid tolls near Srinagar.

We maintained an average speed of almost 60 km/h until we reached Jawhar Tunnel. From there another police officer who needed a lift for about 100 km (who had just relieved by the officer whom we dropped - due to a shift change). Despite our initial reluctance to give another lift, especially after the incident in Srinagar on our arrival day, we were pleasantly surprised by the kindness of both officers. They even insisted on having tea with us at their drop-off points.

We made a brief stop at Patnitop to enjoy the scenery and have some corn. From there, nothing significant happened. We reached Jalandhar by 7 pm and decided to take a break for the night.

Random photos - Did not stop anywhere as there was bandh and we were really scared


Route: Sonamarg->Srinagar->Patnitop->Jammu->Pathankot->Jalandhar
Total Kilometres Covered: 609
Stay: Hotel Gulshan, Jalandhar
Accommodation Type: AC Double Bed
Rate: Rs.1000/-
Hotel Rating: Good Old rooms. Bathroom not very clean. Service O.k. I’d call it a motel rather than hotel (even though they have conference rooms etc).

[kozhissery]

Day 19 – 15-Jun-2010: Jalandhar to Jaipur
Started early in the morning, had breakfast at 5.30am in DRIVE IN Mac Donalds and reached jaipur around 3.30pm. Did our shopping (for better half and family). Decided to have the special Jaipuri Lassi (really lip smacking) and took some snaps of Hawa Mahal too.

Delhi


Entrance to Fort


So sad to see foreigners taking photo of the cattle on the road


Entrance to Fort


Hawa Mahal


Hawa Mahal


Lipsmacking Lassi@Ramchand Kulfi Bhandar, Near Hawa Mahal


Route: Jalandhar->Ludhiana->Ambala->Panipat->Gurgaon->Jaipur.
Total Kilometres Covered: 680
Stay: Some Motel
Accommodation Type: AC Double Bed
Rate: Rs.900/-
Hotel Rating: Good clean small rooms. Service O.k

[kozhissery]

Day 20 – 16-Jun-2010: Jaipur to Manor(Near Gujarat Maharashtra Border)
We started early from Jaipur, but the drive was very slow due to the onset of rain accompanied by heavy wind. Fortunately, after an hour of driving, the weather cleared up, allowing us to increase our speed. As we approached Vapi, the wind picked up again, and within a few kilometers, it began to rain heavily. Luckily, we spotted a McDonald's and decided to wait there for about half an hour to see if the rain would subside. When we resumed our journey, the rain intensified, forcing us to abandon our attempt to reach Mumbai.

Funny Mile stone


Funny Mile stone


Funny Mile stone


Random Photo


Route: Jaipur->Ahmedabad->Manor
Total Kilometres Covered: 1062
Stay: Some Motel
Accommodation Type: Double Bed
Rate: Rs.500/-
Hotel Rating: Horrible Rooms, Bad Service (as it was raining we opted for the first motel in sight – very bad decision). Wanted to take AC rooms (they told that there was not guarantee that AC will work)

[kozhissery]

Day 21 – 17-Jun-2010: Manor to Karwar
We started early after a rough night’s sleep. The drive was very slow due to the rain, and we saw many overturned lorries and cars, so we drove cautiously. We weren't sure if there were many potholes like in Kerala. We witnessed a couple of accidents on the ghat roads, with bodies lying in pools of blood, which made us quite uncomfortable despite our smooth, hitch-free drive. We took a short shopping break in Panajifor the kids. As it was getting late and we couldn't reach Kollur, Mookambika, we decided to stop at Karwar for the night.

Slippery road


Foggy Road


Greenry


Greenry


Route: Manor->Mumbai->Lanjha->Panaji->Karwar
Total Kilometres Covered: 690
Stay: Karwar
Accommodation Type: AC Double Bed
Rate: Rs.800/-
Hotel Rating: Old Room, but neat. Old AC, Too cold and no cut-out (except switch it off – that’s what we did). Good service.

[kozhissery]

Day 22 – 18-Jun-2010: Karwar to Angamaly

As we had decided to visit Mookambika Temple we got up early and reached Mookambika by 9am. Took a dip at Souparnika and spent some time in the temple. The roads were fine till we reached Kerala and we were greeted by the great potholes of Kerala. Decided to visit a relative to have some “Home made Coffee”.
As we had decided to reach home without any night stop, drove continuously and reached home by morning 1am.

Cousin's Home


Cousin's Home


Cousin's Home


Cousin's Home


Route: Karwar->Kollur->Cannanore->Angamaly
Total Kilometres Covered: 700
Stay: Home
Accommodation Type: NA
Rate: NA
Hotel Rating: NA

[kozhissery]

Summary
After a days rest at Angamaly, I proceeded to my home@Trivandrum.

Vehicle: Maruti Swift VDI+ABS
Fuel Type: Diesel
Total Kilometers Travelled: 10432 KMS
Total Fuel: 560.22 Litre
Total Fuel Cost: Rs.21,376.31
Average Cost Per Litre: Rs.38.15
Average Kilometer Per Litre: 18.62 KMPL
Vehicle Performance: Fantastic, No issues, not even a single puncture

[KarthikK]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[VigneshMC]

This is Wow , I would love to see more travelogues like this . It also makes us realize how much we have moved ahead in terms of road infrastructure and petrol price.

[Kashi053]

Beautiful captures.

Any reason why you didn't choose Tso-moriri to Manali route.?

[kozhissery]

Originally Posted by Kashi053

Beautiful captures.

Any reason why you didn't choose Tso-moriri to Manali route.?

Rhotang was not yet open. Actual plan was via Manali, but wheather had different plans

[Vasuki]

Originally Posted by kozhissery

Rhotang was not yet open. Actual plan was via Manali, but wheather had different plans

Thanks @kozhissery for bringing it on Team BHP.

Sigh.. 14 years back, brings lot of nostalgic memories. The road conditions were totally different then. First time experience at a high altitude locale. No crowd at all, compared to today's rush. We literally had the Shanti stupa to ourselves. Drive to Hunder was really exciting. We did not go to Turtuk.

Food was an issue to me, but found the way out in a small cafe in the Leh market. The owner was a cool guy, who used to sell pakoda's , tikkis e.t.c. Now that stall has turned into a mini hotel and the market itself has changed a lot. When I went back to Leh on 2022, it took some time to spot the same hotel.

Swift Vdi performed flawlessly during the entire trip.

[arnieshwartz]

This travelogue is seriously a time capsule of sorts. If someone were to retrace the same routes, so much would've changed over the past fourteen years! It's really heartening that the Swift performed flawlessly, considering the terrain it had to negotiate, and without a single tyre getting punctured is really something!

Quite the adventure, and thanks for sharing with us here.