[PointZero]

DAY 10: Garkone - Darchiks - Batalik - Lalung - Hambuting La - Dras - Pandras - Zoji La - Baltal Valley - Sonamarg - Srinagar, J&K

Following the task of packing, we dedicated our morning to a delightful breakfast in the walnut garden of our homestay. Amid the captivating valley, we resolved to explore its historical heritage—a place that had endured for over five centuries. Originally a residence, evolved into a living museum, carefully preserving the rich tapestry of Aryan culture. The owners of the homestay, diligent custodians of this historical gem, graciously guided us through its corridors.

This four-story construction had witnessed centuries of change, and its architecture carried stories of seasons. However, time had taken its toll on the uppermost floor, which had to be removed due to the weight of years. The house was ingeniously designed with separate levels for winter and summer living. The winter floor, intentionally lower in height, was a testament to the innovative strategies to preserve warmth during the harsh winters. Every floor narrated a different chapter of history, with antiques ranging from kitchen utensils to paintings, traditional weaponry, clothing, and even equipment used for the traditional sport of polo.

The road ahead led to Srinagar, a city known for its beauty. However, our previous night's accommodations and meals left us yearning for something better. Amidst discussions on what the next destination should offer, we found ourselves passing through Humbuting La, the gateway to a series of mesmerizing destinations. The journey unfolded through Darchiks, Batalik, and Lalung, with each place leaving its imprint on our memories.

As we pressed on towards Srinagar, our journey reflected time itself, retracing the steps taken the day before. The familiar sights of Dras prompted a stop and the inviting tea at Pandras offered a moment of respite.

https://youtu.be/ixFj0x6iSXY?si=G4iMKqt49MYgRKxR

Few Random while approaching Zoji La

Zoji La awaited, a new pass for Snow Leopard. The winding roads, with their twists and turns, led you to this high mountain pass, where we immortalized ourselves against the backdrop of an enchanting landscape. Our journey continued, but not without a twinge of disappointment. The once-pristine Baltal valley had been tarnished by a bunch of tents, an intrusion that dimmed its natural beauty. Nevertheless, our spirits remained unyielding as we ventured onwards, reaching the captivating Sonamarg.

https://youtu.be/2i3_w_SEkTQ?si=LBD2qmIqzij97uJd

https://youtu.be/1PR-ZD_O1ZU?si=PZw9ngWJEs9WAMPp

Filled with eagerness, we ventured into the city that held memories from a previous winter escapade. Relying on our past experience, we sought out a familiar and reasonably priced hotel, although its rates had increased since our last visit. Despite exploring other options, destiny guided us back to the same refuge. After refreshing, we embarked on a culinary odyssey, returning to a chowk near the Mughal Garden. The enticing aromas of chicken and fish kebabs called out to us—a treat that had lingered in our memories since the previous winter. Indulging in spice, we complemented our meal with cold and hot coffees, creating a blend of flavors that mirrored our diverse experiences. We sat on the bank and we surrendered ourselves into its irresistible beauty. Beneath the starlit sky, my brothers and I engaged in heartwarming conversations, feeling time slow down in the presence of such magnificence.

To be continued ...

[PointZero]

DAY 11: Srinagar - Manasbal Lake - Wular Lake - Bandipora - Rajdan Pass - Gurez Valley, J&K

The day marked the apex of our expedition into unexplored territories, as we eagerly anticipated our journey to the less frequented Gurez Valley in Kashmir. Nestled along the Line of Control between India and Pakistan-occupied Kashmir, Gurez spanned 100 kilometers and featured seven villages within its forested enclave. Recently unveiled to tourists, it stood as a rare and exhilarating destination. The day commenced with the resonating chime of our morning alarm, awakening each of us from our slumber. Fully aware of the untold wonders Gurez held, we prepared ourselves with palpable excitement.

Our initial destination was the breathtaking Manasbal Lake, surrounded by serene landscapes and complemented by a nearby JK tourism restaurant.

Manasbal Lake

Continuing our journey, we marveled at the expansive Wular Lake, capturing the valley's panoramic view from this vantage point. Given the sensitive proximity to the Line of Control, our entry into the valley required thorough scrutiny at a BSF checkpoint, where we submitted our details and received a security token.

We three in some tea break














Random snaps - Wular Lake













Random Snaps on the way to Razdan Pass



Our Permit

https://youtu.be/o3NCH9PQ9XI?si=Nn_vhBQ0CQ26fqpi

https://youtu.be/fRnm8veYYbg?si=PJnE9MdbSTLetSqT

To be continued ...

[PointZero]

Day 11 continued ...

During and after hailstorm

https://youtu.be/7VRpNh1zt5c?si=4Gber8g09r2hO2cB

https://youtu.be/D2L64wTN4Lc?si=aOQojz_66hbT-4BA

Amidst our exploration, a tea shop tempted us with delicious fried kebabs and Kashmiri Khawa, creating an unexpected but delightful pause in our journey. A sudden hailstorm and rain shower added an element of unpredictability, yet the lush greenery of Kashmir captivated us. Beyond the Razdan Pass, a brief rugged stretch led us to a CRPF checkpoint, where we again submitted our details and received another token.

Razdan Pass

In the Gurez Valley forest block, we navigated through the bazaar area, providing information to the Indian Army and receiving yet another token. Glimpses of the Line of Control fence in the mountain areas served as a stark reminder of the region's geopolitical significance. Our first sight of Gurez Valley prompted an awe-stricken pause, capturing its mesmerizing beauty through our eyes and lenses.

On the way to Gurez

https://youtu.be/a4R8XMux34c?si=Ugw148L1wDOBd1Is

https://youtu.be/bTHrfg75KEc?si=j3oNj1txeRzIKfB_

Driving deeper into the valley beside the Kishan Ganga River, we encountered camps along its banks and inquired about accommodation from a local. Graciously, he offered the newly established Gurez Eco Lodge, directing us to a recommended viewpoint. Our exploration unfolded as we snapped photographs of the pristine valley, the holy mountain peak Habba Khatoon, and climbed to a tabletop vantage point, relishing the European countryside-like scenery.

https://youtu.be/LM7mAkMmMrg?si=gvgY7sZAYo69OUDD

https://youtu.be/8tcWFmRPD5U?si=czSPpkRkV-kZ_dak

https://youtu.be/Z3Bv0sCGA3I?si=sFmnEgfICz6rLHG6

The maximum I could capture is Gurez. In real its much more

As the day transitioned into the evening, we contacted the local host who had offered accommodations. Checking in, we settled into the comfortable quarters of the homestay, enjoying a quiet night as the sole guests. Engaging in spirited conversations with our host after dinner, we delved into the rich cultural tapestry of the valley, forging meaningful connections through the exchange of stories.

To be continued ...

[PointZero]

DAY 12: Gurez Valley - Banihal - Ramban - Udhampur, J&K

Commencing the day in Gurez Valley, a locale that felt like a world apart, we sensed a step closer to home. After a tranquil night's sleep, we rise up from our beds with a lazy revival. We found that our generous host had prepared breakfast. The charm of the valley in the soft morning light beckoned me outside. The landscape unfolded in breathtaking beauty—a serene canvas of greenery and mountains. Before bidding farewell to the village, we visited the riverside just beyond our homestay. Our host suggested the possibility of camping here in the future, an idea we embraced as a commitment to return and delve deeper into the remote and mesmerizing Gurez Valley.

Retracing our steps from the previous day's journey, we opted to minimize small stops, mindful of the lengthy and challenging journey ahead. At various checkpoints, we dutifully presented the tokens provided by the Indian armed forces—a reminder of the controlled access to this sensitive border region.

Our route guided us through the Razdan Pass and along the vast expanse of Wular Lake in Srinagar. Eventually merging onto NH44, a well-known highway leading us to our day's final destination, Jammu, we paused for a much-needed lunch in Banihal. Unexpectedly, the journey took a turn when we encountered a traffic jam just after crossing the Banihal tunnel—a seemingly endless sea of vehicles that consumed five precious hours of our time. By the time we reached Ramban, night had fallen, and the traffic showed no signs of relenting. Despite the setback, our determination propelled us forward from Ramban towards Udhampur.

As the clock struck 1 AM, we arrived at Udhampur, a town cloaked in darkness. Exhausted from the day's chaotic journey, we began knocking on hotel doors in search of a place to rest for the night. After several attempts, we finally found a welcoming inn that provided us with the shelter and well-deserved rest we sought.

DAY 13: Udhampur - Jammu - Pathankot - Jalandhar - Ludhiana - Ambala - Kurukshetra - Panipat - Sonipat - NIT Delhi, Delhi


At 5:30 AM, we departed from our hotel. However, our first task was to ensure the Snow Leopard was ready for travel. Therefore, we made a pit stop at a nearby petrol pump to fuel up, ensuring we had sufficient fuel for the journey to Delhi.
Jalandhar became our next significant halt, prompting us to address the air filter, a necessity after enduring the dusty roads. Continuing our travel, we relished the flavors of Punjab, passing through Ambala and Kurukshetra before reaching Panipat. Crossing Sonipat marked our entrance into the vast expanse of Delhi. Our night's destination was the NIT Delhi guest house, a comfortable haven thoughtfully booked by my sister. After checking in and freshening up, we eagerly anticipated catching up with my sister.
Her boundless hospitality shone as she treated us with delightful spread of Muri and Peyaji. We exchanged stories and reminisced about the incredible journey. For dinner, we indulged to some Bengali favorites, savoring every bite that transported us back home. With full stomachs and hearts, we bid my sister good night, making our way back to the nearby guest house to settle in beds.



[b]DAY 14/15: NIT Delhi - Kolkata, WB
After a restful night at the NIT Delhi guest house, our fantastic stay left us unhurried to begin the day. My sister, employed at NIT Delhi, was headed to her office, prompting us to see her off before starting the final leg of our journey to home around 8:30 in the morning.

As we bid adieu to Delhi and its warm-hearted residents, we seamlessly merged onto the Yamuna Expressway. The Snow Leopard glided effortlessly along the well-maintained expressway, guiding us to our initial destination, Agra. The drive, although lengthy, proved remarkably pleasant as we traversed cities like Etawah, Kanpur, Prayagraj, and Varanasi, each possessing its unique character and charm.

The 15-day Zanskar Valley expedition had reached to its conclusion and reflecting on our journey, a deep sadness permeated that it had come to an end. We had explored rugged terrains, marveled at awe-inspiring landscapes, and shared countless moments of laughter and wonder. The camaraderie among our travel companions had deepened, and we had immersed ourselves in the beauty of diverse cultures and places. Yet, there was also a sense of happiness, acknowledging that this marked just one chapter in our travel narrative. Eagerly anticipating new horizons, destinations, and the promise of more adventures, we admitted that the Zanskar Valley trip had been an unforgettable journey—a reminder that the world is brimming with wonders waiting to be discovered.

As we unpacked our bags and settled back into the comforts of home, the memories of Zanskar Valley eternally imprinted in our hearts and we knew that our wanderlust would soon thrust us onto another exciting expedition. The anticipation of our next trip would fuel our dreams and aspirations, solidifying the Zanskar Valley trip as a cherished chapter in our saga of adventure.



Thank You

PointZero

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[ruzbehxyz]

Excellent travelogue @PointZero. The photos and videos are equally good. Reminded me of my travels to Zanskar in 2020 and 2021, and to Gurez in 2023. If you want to know more about these places from the historical and geographical point of view, then you can go through my travelogues.
This part of the world is different all together and is raw as was Ladakh till 2010. However a lot is changing in Zanskar and probably Padum is the next Leh.

[//M]

This is such a terrific travelogue. There are so many travelogues on Zanskar / Ladakh on TBhp, yet this stands out in its own sweet way. Lovely captures.

The Thar looks absolutely at home in these terrains. How was the highway performance of the vehicle? Were there any DPF related issues you faced in the hills?

[AKTransAM]

Amazing pics and great travelog!

[PointZero]

Originally Posted by ruzbehxyz

Excellent travelogue @PointZero. The photos and videos are equally good. Reminded me of my travels to Zanskar in 2020 and 2021, and to Gurez in 2023. If you want to know more about these places from the historical and geographical point of view, then you can go through my travelogues.
This part of the world is different all together and is raw as was Ladakh till 2010. However a lot is changing in Zanskar and probably Padum is the next Leh.

Thank you, ruzbehxyz! I've already bookmarked your 'Unseen Kashmir' thread for reference. It will undoubtedly be invaluable for planning my next trip to Kashmir.

Originally Posted by //M

This is such a terrific travelogue. There are so many travelogues on Zanskar / Ladakh on TBhp, yet this stands out in its own sweet way. Lovely captures.

The Thar looks absolutely at home in these terrains. How was the highway performance of the vehicle? Were there any DPF related issues you faced in the hills?

Thanks //M,
In terms of performance, it handles well on the highway despite of lot of body-roll. As mentioned earlier, we opted for the THAR over the Bolero specifically to withstand the heat of June. Fortunately, we didn't encounter any DPF issues during the trip.

Originally Posted by AKTransAM

Amazing pics and great travelog!

Thank you very much AKTransAM,

[ABHI_1512]

Brilliant pictures and superlative travel PointZero, you have mentioned everything so lucidly that I now know what to refer to when I do get a chance to visit Zanskar. The visit to the Aryan valley was even better and the pictures of the celebrations have come out so well. Will get back to you at some point for further inputs. Keep travelling, your logs are always a delight to read.

Regards
ABHI.

[Mustang Sammy]

Lovely write up and amazing pics. Truly a journey of a lifetime.
In your experience is this a trip that 10-14 year old kids can handle?

[PointZero]

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Brilliant pictures and superlative travel PointZero, you have mentioned everything so lucidly that I now know what to refer to when I do get a chance to visit Zanskar. The visit to the Aryan valley was even better and the pictures of the celebrations have come out so well. Will get back to you at some point for further inputs. Keep travelling, your logs are always a delight to read.

Regards
ABHI.

Thank you so much ABHI for your kind appreciation.

Originally Posted by Mustang Sammy

Lovely write up and amazing pics. Truly a journey of a lifetime.
In your experience is this a trip that 10-14 year old kids can handle?

Thanks Mustang Sammy,
You can plan the entry from Kargil side and start from Padum instead of Purne as there are very less accommodation option in Purne and/or Gumbok Rangan as of now. However, I have seen many new cottage construction was going on. So in a year or two it will transformed to a resort.