[adetour]

Day 12 : Guwahati local - 5km on odo

When planning this in Wakro, it was mostly supposed to be a rest day, but that turned out so only for the cars. It was a long day and "typical" touristy day!

First up, we headed to Kamakhya Temple, Nilachal Hills. We knew it will be a dicey situation given the holiday season, as even without the holiday crowd Kamakhya darshan is a mess. One of our trip members who flew in to Guwahati for the trip and had visited that day, was done with the darshan within an hour. But now the scenario was completely different with lots of crowd and the Panda we were interacting with had messed up, hence we skipped the inside darshan and just did the other queue from outside. (Rs. 500 tickets start around 5/530am, so the best way to get tickets is to reach there after 5, get the ticket, and come back later for darshan)


After Kamkhya, we headed to Sagar Ratna (https://maps.app.goo.gl/8VHpRJAMswrVMQBB7) for Breakfast. A lot of "dosa" restaurants have come up in Guwahati, but Sagar Ratna continues to be pretty good, filter coffee was good too, finally South Indian Breakfast after 10 days.


We headed to the Umananda Ferry after a leisure breakfast, we took the Goverment Ferry and just did the ferry ride across Brahmaputra skipping the temple darshan. The Government Ferry point : https://maps.app.goo.gl/UGN3Cq84p9GXcTFSA is here at Shukreshwar Ghat and tickets can also be booked online at https://www.asiwt.in/ (Beware, there are many other Private ferries including the Jolporee one right next to it. The famous Lachit Ghat one too seems to be all private ferries).


After the ferry ride, we went back to the hotel for some rest, and then returned to Michinga Restaurant for Assamese Lunch (https://maps.app.goo.gl/uewYjgrg3cq5m5aq7). All of us loved the food here, whether it was Veg Thali or Chicken or Fish.


Next up, after Lunch was the Sunset Cruise in Alfresco Grand (https://maps.app.goo.gl/zmzU1UeCrhKTRC2v6). The ferry point is <a km from Michinga. We had already booked the Sunset Cruise and Dinner Cruise. Sunset Cruise costs Rs. 750 for the upper deck and Dinner Cruise is Rs. 1700. Reporting time for Sunset cruise was 330pm (varies as per season). It is really organized, we had to collect the pre-booked tickets at the counter and then in the Cruise, a table is already reserved on our name, based on the number of people.


Cruise started at 4pm as the sun started setting. It first went westwards crossing Umananda Island and further towards North Guwahati. It was a nice picturesque sunset. Food is served on cruise at extra cost, we had Masala Chai and some Fries, they were good. We were back to the shore after an hour around 5pm. Overall a good experience.






We had around 1.5 hours, the reporting time for Dinner cruise is 7pm. We headed to Pragjyotika - Assam Emporium for more shopping (https://maps.app.goo.gl/sd36vDgqdU2P8fCW7). It had a good range of collection and we spent easily more than an hour here. They close at 7pm, so the billing at 645pm had a long queue.


Those skipping the Dinner Cruise headed back to the Hotel, while we went back to Alfresco.


Dinner Cruise was a different experience. For Sunset cruise we were on the upper deck enjoying the views around Brahmaputra. While the Dinner Cruise was on the lower deck, with a lot of cultural programmes. We enjoyed the cultural show which went on for an hour, after which buffer dinner was served at a separate dining area below the lower deck, which was also pretty good, but we didn't have much appetite after a heavy Lunch.



Brahmaputra views, and the new North Guwahati - Guwahati Bridge under construction.



We were back to the stay after a looong day by 10pm.

[adetour]

Day 13 : Guwahati - Siju Caves - Jadesil Fish Sanctuary - Emangre : 245 kms

We checked out and started from Guwahati around 630am. This was the first time on NH17 towards Dudhnoi, we have always been taking the NH27 E-W corridor through Nalbari in the previous drives. Roads were pretty empty and it was fast progress till Boko. After Boko we got many stretches of typical fields Fog but it was dense, so we had to slow down.


We reached Dudhnoi around 815am, most restaurants were still not open. As we turned into the Garo Hills road, at the end of town a small restaurant was open for Breakfast.


After Breakfast, in another 10 minutes drive, we entered Meghalaya at Dainadubi.


Winding foresty roads started immediately after that, road conditions were very good. We entered Meghalaya into North Garo Hills district, and then into East Garo Hills. We crossed Rongjeng, the first major town at around 945am. At Darugre, we took the left fork towards Baghmara on NH217. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/LxmMqAiSgjxdLoRp9)


Facilites became sparse as we proceeded further. Road was narrow but good. There were frequent villages amidst foresty stretches, as we crossed Dobu, Nongkhra, Nongalbibra and then entered South Garo Hills district. It was stark contrast with the kind of facilities we have seen in Khasi side of Meghalaya.


Jadi was the next biggest village which we crossed around 1040am, it also has 2 IOC pumps. Few kms after Jadi (https://maps.app.goo.gl/AtCwXcpcWmEiCVE36), there was a board for "Welcome to Baghmara division" and the road conditions drastically changed.


From there, the next 17kms to Siju village took almost an hour. Some stretches had broken tarmac, while some was completely muddy. Although it was fully dusty all the way. No complaints though, this is the typical NE roads that we have experienced in many of our past drives, in Mizoram, Manipur, Tripura, Sikkim.


Once we turned from Siju Village towards the caves, it was good village tarmac. We reached Siju Caves around 12noon. At the entrance, there are guides whom we've to hire mandatorily and they do provide torches on rent as well. After paying the entry fees.etc, we walked in towards the Caves.


The entrance stairs where we came from. Since its winter, the initial portion is filled only with ankle deep water.


There are some spectacular rock formations, these are limestone.


As we proceed further into the caves, it becomes darker, there are bats, and in some stretches water is waist deep. We went in till some sections after which it gets claustrophobic and then returned back. The guide said that a day isn't enough to explore it.


We were done with the caves visit by 1pm. The homestay we had booked at Emangre wasn't able to prepare Lunch for us, so he suggested us a contact at Tolegre.
We checked with the guide at Siju on road conditions whether to take the shortcut to Tolegre or go via Emangre. He suggested that Tolegre road would be faster, as the "highway" down towards Baghmara is in bad shape till Karukol turnoff.
We traced back the route from Siju Caves to Siju village and then took the shortcut, the initial 2-3kms was pretty good and we were surprised. After that, the road gradually turned into a trail, some places steep, some places narrow with bushes, and a water crossing too.


It was a nice adventure and we finally reached Tolegre at 2pm. (Route : https://maps.app.goo.gl/gF7LLdsTXZYS3dTR8). As we reached Tolegre, the PMGSY Road starts (https://www.developmentaid.org/organ...e-tolegre-road)



The entry to Jadesil Fish Sanctuary is through Tolegre Playground (https://maps.app.goo.gl/g6TK96x6V16L8gtk6). We have to park at the playground and then walk.


After parking at Tolegre, we managed to find the person who was the contact given for Lunch. With great communication difficultly, we asked them to prepare just Maggi quickly. Meanwhile we decided to walk to the Fish Sanctuary and come back as the Lunch gets prepared.


The initial walk is along the river for <1 km.


The last part is a small hike up a hill and down to reach the Fish Sanctuary (https://maps.app.goo.gl/ov32vhc3s9deMLnY9)


The Fish Sanctuary was a serene and calm place.




We returned back to the Lunch place near Tolegre Playground, it took another 10 minutes to be prepared though.


After Lunch, we started from Tolegre around 4pm, and it was a 7km 15minute drive on the PMGSY road to our destination, Emangre. The homestay we booked - BS Manda Homestay (https://maps.app.goo.gl/d5XF66pTuXmwgHas5) is at the entrance of Emangre, it is a basic stay, but clean. After Wari Chora got famous recently, some 5+ homes in Emangre village have started homestays, with what ever facilities possible there. There was decent network at Emangre.


We spent rest of the evening, by the bonfire, along with the homestay pet dogs.
We also got to discuss with Mahan(the homestay owner) about how Wari Chora got famous, the poverty of Garo Hills, about Meghalaya, different places to visit in Garo Hills, how South Garo Hills is the most neglected part of Meghalaya, how they're trying to promote Wari Chora without much support, yet they are finally getting some focus.etc. After dinner, we planned the main part of next day - Wari Chora visit, so we asked for the pickup jeep to be ready by 8am.

[adetour]

Day 14 First half : Emangre - Wari Chora - Emangre (Jeep+Trek)

We had breakfast by 730am and were ready. The pickup jeep was at the Homestay by 8am. The road after Emangre Village towards Wari Chora was a dirt track, some sections were easy, some sections were narrow and steep, perhaps manageable by capable vehicles in 4x2 itself with good GC. It was a 10-15km drive which took around 1 hour and we reached Wari Chora Entry point around 9am.
GPS trace of the route : https://www.openstreetmap.org/user/a...races/11312710

Location of Wari Chora parking point : https://maps.app.goo.gl/YpFte8TtKq1C5q1Z6 (25.377523780144607, 90.52960356460397)

The route from Emangre to Wari Chora


Instructions at Wari Chora Entry point. We had to enter details in the register and pay the entry fees. We were the 2nd group for the day.


The pickup Jeep. It was a fun ride standing in the back!


Wari Chora timings


The hike down to Wari Chora takes around an hour, and they are divided into 3 sections, the first 20 minutes or so is just a walk in the forest with very gradual descent but narrow and slippery at sections. After that, we start the actual descent, some sections are moderate, some sections are steep, the mud is slippery in many places and one needs to be careful and slow. The last section is very very step descent, they and made bamboo stairs, around 5-6 of them. And most of it is like climbing down in a ladder. This is actually easier than what it looks in the pictures. The middle section without the bamboo stairs was tougher.



The first glimpse of the river!


We finally reached the River base just after 10am, around 1hour+ for the downhill hike. The boat cost is settled by the guide and we have to pay him at the homestay, we can take as many boat rides as we want, but extra rides are chargeable at Rs. 250 per ride. They have 6 people seater inflatable boats as well as 2 people boat. The smaller one is better as they take you into a narrow gorge waterfalls, not possible in the bigger boat.
Boating point : https://maps.app.goo.gl/h7hvWWo9FBHrfVAXA (25.375689684986767, 90.53918671598282)


The boat ride!


There are no words to describe this place, it is more beautiful than it looks in the pictures. And time stands still.




We reached this shallow rocks point after 10minutes boat ride, the first group was already there. We can spend any amount of time here. For going beyond this, the inflatable boats needs to be carried and then placed again on the other side, not many groups were doing this. In around 15-20 minutes of staying here, more groups started coming. We would've spent around an hour here after which there were too many people, so we started the return boat ride.


The return boat ride was too good compared to the onwards, as sun was up and sun rays were decorating this place magically!




Short videos of the boat ride :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7YlfLtFO1w

The narrow gorge waterfalls (possible to go only in small boats) :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbWaF0RYTQs

We started the return hike by 1130am and it again took almost an hour, and we reached the Entry Point by 1220pm. Food Stalls were set up now which weren't there at 9am. While we waited for others in our group, we had some food.



We reached back to the homestay in Emangre Village by 2pm. It was a wonderful half day from 8am to 2pm. Please ensure to take guides to Wari Chora else one would get lost, and be there as early as possible so that crowds are less.
The final cost for our group(10 of us) for Wari Chora was :
Guide - Rs. 1500, Jeep - Rs. 3000, Boating - Rs. 1000, Extra Boating - Rs. 500, Entry Fees - Rs. 500

Day 14 Second half : Emangre - Bongaigaon : 220kms

We started from Emangre by 240pm. The return drive back home starts from here. It was going to be a 6hour drive to Bongaigaon, the destination for the day. We didn't take the shortcut through Tolegre and bad off road to Siju like onwards. Instead took the PMGSY village road from Emangre to Karukol. It was a very smooth drive. At Karukol, we reached NH217 Baghmara highway.


The mud road starts right after we crossed the Rongdik Bridge, and we were crawling on NH217. 12kms from Karukol to Siju took 30 minutes. After Siju there is a nice viewpoint of Simsang River. Sun started setting as we crossed this, we tried to push ahead a bit and get to good roads. We crossed Siju at 345pm, and reached Jadi IOC around 5pm, 1hr15min for around 24km.
After the refuelling stop, it was a non-stop drive in Meghalaya, same route as onwards so we were aware of the road conditions which was mostly good. We crossed Rongjeng at 6pm and reached back into Assam at Dainadubi Border around 650pm.


After that was uneventful drive on the plains of erstwhile Koch kingdom. 4 laning road work is happening after Goalpara, some sections were completed, some had lots of work. We crossed Brahmaputra through Naranarayan Setu into Bongaigaon District. There were 2 railways crossings between Jogighppa and Abhayapuri Tinali (2nd one is completed now). After that, most of 4 laning is done and it was fast progress to Bongaigaon. We reached Sona Hotel (https://maps.app.goo.gl/27YQessGZwx5cZsw6) at 840pm, exactly in 6 hours from Emangre and just ~20 minutes breaktime.

[adetour]

Return Drive :
..finally completing the pending post of this log


Day 15 : Bongaigaon - Kalyani : 800kms

We started at 630am from Bongaigaon, it was the start of highway run back home. It was only Ecosport and XUV for the return drive, as Tiguan was continuing on a longer trip to the other side of India.



We skipped stopping at Dabri Tea Lounge as it was early and stopped for breakfast at Amar Vaishno Dhaba, Madarihat (https://maps.app.goo.gl/ELt1ZF5oYusjQuQQ6) around 830am.




We had started after breakfast at 9am, crossed Jalpaiguri around 1020am, and Fulbari at 11am. It was a sedate drive through the barricade highways of West Bengal. At 1252pm we turned off into NH12 at Dalkhola from NH27. We stopped at Paradesi Dhaba for some snacks and Rabdi shopping. Malda - Sujapur - Kaliachak was not too crowded as we crossed before evening peak hours.

Spotted the first run rakes of Amrit Bharat Malda - SMVT train at Farakka Bridge around 330pm


We crossed Berhampore Bypass at 510pm, after which we encountered the peak hour traffic around 2 lane sections of Debagram - Bethudahari area. With a refuel stop in between, we managed to reach Mother's Hut, Krishnanagar for Lunch+Dinner at 7pm. Dinner was the usual Mother's hut fare of Pizza and Biryani, service was quicker than onwards drive.






After dinner, we started around 830pm, it was a quick ~20minute drive to Ranaghat, after which we meandered through some shortcuts to avoid most of the infamous Ranaghat jam, finally crossed it in 25 minutes (PS : this was back in Dec'23, now all the flyovers are open and Ranaghat jams are history). We reached Akshara Regency, Kalyani by 10pm for stay (https://maps.app.goo.gl/hF15T96wNjoDVUP6A)

Drive timings : 629am to 958pm (total breaks ~2hr15min, drive time ~13hr15min)


Day 16 : Kalyani - Rajahmundry : 1091kms

We had decided to stay in Kalyani and not inside Kolkata so that we avoid the night truck traffic jams at Dankuni and then cross it in the morning without much trucks.



It was quick progress as usual. We started from Kalyani at 615am, were at Dankuni at 707am and reached Tarama, Kolaghat for breakfast at 8am (https://maps.app.goo.gl/FxfCLYvhzA6DDPBf6).



Started after breakfast by 845am, and we entered Odisha at 1015am. As usual, the Balasore - Soro - Ranital stretch with diversions was the only annoying section of the day. We were onto 6 laned roads by 1210pm before Bhadrak, after this was continuous 6 laned roads for next 250kms. We crossed Bhubaneshwar around 2pm after a tea break around Chattia Sweet Shops. Crossing Cuttack - Bhubaneshwar was much better than the onwards drive.

We crossed Bramhapur around 415pm, refuelled in the last pump in Odisha and entered Andhra - the best highway roads of the trip, average speeds increased without much pushing. By 630pm we were crossing Srikakulam Bypass. There are hardly any restaurants in this stretch, finally we found one after Nathavalasa Toll - Maa Nethi Vindhu (https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZaGNm7kayVi1jAFfA) where we had this day's Lunch + Dinner.




After Dinner, we decided staying around Rajamundry, in the same place where we stayed during onwards drive. We entered Vizag Bypass at 821pm and were at Anakapalle by 855pm, by then the peak hour crowd of Anakapalle - Rajamundry 4L had reduced. But, what a stress relief Vizag Bypass has become! Easily saves 1-2hours and lots of pain.
We crossed Tuni at 950pm and then reached our stay after Rajanagaram at 1107pm.

Drive stats : 615am to 1107pm (total breaks ~2hrs, drive time ~15hrs)


Day 17 : Rajahmundry to Chennai/Bangalore : 627/830kms
It was the last day of NE 2023 drive and also last day of the year. Both the cars drove together till Naidupeta before splitting off towards Chennai and Bangalore. Entire NH16 over the years has become well-known and home run stretch.

We started from Rajanagaram at 610am. One Food Court at Annavaram would've been early for breakfast, so we proceeded ahead and stopped after Gannavaram at 750am at a local road side cart, which seemed quite popular. Usually in Andhra we find such carts/vans serving good breakfast. After quick breakfast, we crossed Vijaywada before peak hours traffic and were at Krishna Bridge by 840am.

Rest of the NH16 stretch was usual cruise mode 6 laned roads till Nellore (PS : hoping Chilakaluripet Bypass and Vijayawada new Bypass opens before the next NE drive). We were on Nellore Bypass by 1155am, pretty early for Lunch at Nellore Grand, so we decided to try another new place - Manvitha Mana Oori Ruchulu after Gudur (https://maps.app.goo.gl/tgK8B2whRMz6Tpxv8). We reached here at 1pm and were out by 155pm. Andhra meals was very good.


After Lunch, we drove together for another 20 minutes till Naidupeta, 210pm and bid bye to each other till the next drive. From Naidupeta, XUV reached inside Chennai at 355pm. But it was a longer journey for us in Ecosport, especially driving through Tirupati Day pilgrim return crowds. We crossed Tirupati Bypass onto 6laned NH140 at 350pm.

The last pit-stop of the trip was at Balaji Bhavan for Namma Filter Coffee which we missed for many days.


Last sunset of 2023



After the Coffee stop and mandatory refuelling after entering KA, we reached Hoskote Toll at 715pm, it took another hour to reach respective places inside Bangalore. And thus completes the NE 2023 drive for Ecosport and XUV.

Tiguan had branched off at Bongaigaon and was on a longer 2 week drive covering Deogarh - Bodh Gaya - Varanasi - Prayagraj - Jhansi - Rann of Kutch, Dholavira - Khavda - Bhuj - Narayan Sarovar, Koteshwar Westernmost roads of India (covering East and West in a single drive) - Nageshwar - Dwaraka - Somnath - Trimbakeshwar - Bhimashankar - Pune - Hyderabad - Bangalore.


Trip Odometer
XUV500 (Chennai) - 8087kms
EcoSport (Bangalore) - 8472kms
Tiguan (Bangalore) - 13500kms (extended trip)

And that concludes yet another trip to North East, more new places covered and a lot more pending in the list in NE itself!

[haisaikat]

A dream of a road trip I must say. I have been following this thread for months now for regular updates, hoping to see the subsequent episode getting published.

Arunachal and Meghalaya are such beautiful places of this earth and one must make a visit in their lifetime. Your photos were spot on and the ones especially around the landscape and roads were awesome.

Your narration needs special mention because it has all the details and petty things that a traveler must consider while undertaking such ventures Like you have documented in many instances how certain decisions were taken.

Hats off to the extensive research you guys have done especially around roads and their conditions. You referred even satellite imagery to check progress of road repairs and constructions in remote areas. Never seen anyone before with such degree of preparedness, shows what level planning can be taken to.

Also, the way you researched about urban roads and their condition (especially while traversing through Bengal, the way you dodged traffic using shortcuts in Ranaghat and then stooped at Kalyani for the night) that is highly commendable and can stand shoulders with those who are regulars on this route.

West Garo Hills is many a time excluded from the itinerary by most travelers visiting Meghalaya from other states. You have not only hit that region but also explored to the crown of this district, the Wari Chora. I read a lot about Nokrek biosphere. Probably yours is the first narrated experience on this forum of personally accomplishing a Wari Chora visit.

Hats off and take a bow all of you. Would have loved to see a in-person groupfie !! Nevertheless, keep travelling and wish you more of such trips.

[adetour]

Originally Posted by haisaikat

A dream of a road trip I must say. I have been following this thread for months now for regular updates, hoping to see the subsequent episode getting published.

Arunachal and Meghalaya are such beautiful places of this earth and one must make a visit in their lifetime. Your photos were spot on and the ones especially around the landscape and roads were awesome.

Your narration needs special mention because it has all the details and petty things that a traveler must consider while undertaking such ventures Like you have documented in many instances how certain decisions were taken.

Hats off to the extensive research you guys have done especially around roads and their conditions. You referred even satellite imagery to check progress of road repairs and constructions in remote areas. Never seen anyone before with such degree of preparedness, shows what level planning can be taken to.

Also, the way you researched about urban roads and their condition (especially while traversing through Bengal, the way you dodged traffic using shortcuts in Ranaghat and then stooped at Kalyani for the night) that is highly commendable and can stand shoulders with those who are regulars on this route.

West Garo Hills is many a time excluded from the itinerary by most travelers visiting Meghalaya from other states. You have not only hit that region but also explored to the crown of this district, the Wari Chora. I read a lot about Nokrek biosphere. Probably yours is the first narrated experience on this forum of personally accomplishing a Wari Chora visit.

Hats off and take a bow all of you. Would have loved to see a in-person groupfie !! Nevertheless, keep travelling and wish you more of such trips.

Thanks @haisaikat for the good words and also the keen observations, good to see someone following the Tlog in detail.
Yes, every time we do extensive planning before the trip, it is as enjoyable as the trip itself for us.

Garo Hills is indeed a gem, but quite overlooked compared to Khasi Hills, by tourists as well as otherwise. There are many more places to be covered like Balpakram, Nokrek, Darechikgre, Pelga.etc around Baghmara, Williamnagar, Tura.

Originally Posted by pypkmsrikanth

Good to see you here finally Adithya. Am jealous how you guys make these trips religiously year after year.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jithin23

Wowwww! The attention to detail and the way you have documented is gonna be bookmarked by all including me for my next trip!

The irony is I have hardly planned something like this. Almost every drive is unplanned. My last visit to NE was half complete and I had to head back due to time and bad weather conditions (Red alert was issued in NE on Oct 2022).

Kudos to your trips and energy! I know JK in person and I’ve heard the trips you guys have pulled of over the years. Take a bow for organising such massive drives in groups!

Thank You. Have heard a lot about Ecosport club from JK.

Originally Posted by NPV

Wow, this is E-P-I-C, thanks for sharing with so much detail
I’m tuned in to read every single word you post as the journey and experience unfolds, pictures are brilliant

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Turbosailor

Adetour, Seeing pictures in the introduction itself made me to say You hit the ball out of the park. Looks like surfing through NatGeo website. Truly commendable effort in sharing these in details. Welcome to TeamBhp and will be keeping a close watch on your travelogues.

Thanks for the welcome.

Originally Posted by cpabhijit

Wow!!! This promises to be a blockbuster. I'm all dialed in. This is your 1st TL?! Just the amount of detail available in your thread is amazing.

Thanks. Yes its my first TL on TBhp.

Originally Posted by DasAuto1985

Damn you should write a book with so much information. Kudos to your patience for taking time out to share this with us.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by mpksuhas

Nice to see you here Adetour. Welcome to TBHP

With your detailed route updates and back to back trips, hope to see many more travelogues from you here along with the amazing pics.

Thank You.

Originally Posted by dileep

Adetour, I cannot imagine what lies ahead in your travelogue. There's so much detailed planning and the photos are super - actually delicate and sensitively taken.

Looking forward...

Thanks

Originally Posted by Red Liner

I am writing in now to tell you, thank you, even before reading everything.

Secondly I want to savour this thread slowly like a well smoked North East delicacy, cooked and caressed under the night sky by the hands of the lovely lasses found there.

I think that's enough lol!

Thanks. The TL is completed, it wasn't like your interesting stories from NE, but hope it was interesting enough.

[vijayols]

Simply Epic.A ready reckoner for any NE trip.