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This travelogue is dedicated to the Indian Armed Forces deployed in the Union territories of Jammu and Kashmir, & Ladakh. Special thanks to the Indian Army who hosted us at many places and for providing us special permission to drive through some areas normally out of bound for civilians. We are truly indebted to them.


A photograph taken by an astronaut aboard the International Space Station.
This photograph shows one of the few places on Earth where an international boundary can be seen at night. The winding border between India & Pakistan is lit by security lights that have a distinct orange tone.
Source: https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/im...order-at-night



Come 1960’s, the Indian Film industry played a major role in boosting tourism in Kashmir. A spate of Bollywood movies, like Junglee (1961), Kashmir ki Kali (1964), Jaanwar (1965), Jab Jab Phool Khile (1965), Bobby (1973), Kabhie Kabhie (1975), Aap ki Kasam (1974), Noorie (1979), Silsila (1981) and Betaab (1983) captured the true essence of Kashmir. These movies were shot all around Kashmir valley mainly at Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Dal Lake, Shalimar Gardens, Betaab valley etc., which led to Kashmir being a favourite among Indian travelers. In fact, Betaab valley was named after the 1983 Sunny Deol starrer Betaab which was shot in the Hajan valley. Another instant is the Gulmarg hut in which the famous song 'Hum tum ek kamray main baand...’ of Rishi Kapoor's debut film ‘Bobby’ was shot, which became famous as the 'Bobby Hut'.
Kashmir was also the favored honeymoon destination for many young couples, expressing their love in the same way Shammi Kapoor romanced his heroines on the houseboats and shikaras of Dal Lake or in the lush green forests of the valley. This was boom time for tourism in Kashmir. In 1987, according to a government survey, 7 lakh tourists visited Kashmir. Three years later, the number fell to just 6,000.
In 1988-89, insurgency and later militancy & terrorism erupted in the Kashmir Valley. Thanks to the efforts of our neighbouring country. Then the Indian Armed Forces moved in to counter the insurgency, resulting in a cross-border and internal conflict which has claimed the lives of thousands of locals and military personnel. With the Armed Forces entering the valley, eventually turned the land, often called “Heaven on earth” into the world’s most militarised zone, with a ratio of one Indian soldier to every ten civilians.
Today as we speak about tourism in Kashmir, only few places come to our mind - Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam. However there's lot more to Kashmir. Ditching the regular tourist spots, we headed into areas which are sensitive and near the Line of Control. These places were not explored mainly because of terrorism and insurgency across the valley and hence kept out of bounds for civilians. There are many places which will leave you mesmerised. Each place has its own distinct charm and each valley has its own beauty.
There’s much more to these heavenly locations, which has lost its sheen in the labyrinth of politics, terrorism and social unrest. Still in these testing times, the nature has survived and retained its natural exquisiteness.


Date of travel: 06th Oct. to 19th Oct. 2023.

Route:- Delhi - Panipat - Kurukshetra - Ambala - Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Pathankot - Jammu - Akhnoor - Bhimber Gali - Poonch - Chakan da baug (LoC) - Mughal road - Peer ki Gali - Shopian - Pulwama - Tangmarg - Uri - Kaman bridge (LoC) - Baramulla - Reshawari - Bangus valley - Teepee - Sadhna top - Teetwal - Ragini sector - Pharkiyan Gali - Keran (LoC) - Kupwara - Zamindar Khan Gali - Machil valley - Dudi - Kalaroos - Lolab valley - Kupwara bypass - Wular lake (western side) - Bandipora - Razdan pass - Gurez valley - Dawar - Niru - Chakwali - Bandipora - Wular lake (eastern side) - Srinagar - Ramban - Jammu - Pathankot - Delhi.


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Index: -

Introduction:

The formation of the LoC and the division of Jammu & Kashmir:

Akhnoor:

Poonch area & Chakan da bagh on the LoC:

Mughal road & Peer ki gali:

Uri & Kaman bridge on the LoC:

Bangus valley:

Tut Mari Gali / TMG:

Sadhna Pass, Karnah valley & Teetwal on the LoC:

Pharkiyan Gali & Keran village on the LoC:

Zamindar Gali & Machil valley:

Kalaroos caves & Lolab valley:

Razdaan Pass:

Gurez & Tulail valley:

The Permit system:

Conclusion:


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Highlights:-

1. Apart from the regular online permits, we were assisted by the Indian Army for permissions of various places.

2. We stayed at various Army mess' in some areas, names of which are not given here.

3. We have not taken photos of any Army installations etc. Some photos were taken with permission.

4. These areas were notorious for terrorists and militants at one point of time. Hence security is a big issue.

5. These are the four major places visited right on the LoC - Chakan Da Bagh, Kaman bridge, Teetwal and Keran.

6. For each valley you need to cross a pass - Eg. Sadhna top / NC pass for Teetwal, Pharkiyan Gali for Keran, Zamindar Gali for Machil, Razdan top for Gurez.

7. Pass is locally called "Gali" in Kashmir. The Army and locals use shortcuts for the passes. eg. NC pass for Sadhna pass, P Gali for Pharkiyan Gali, Z Gali for Zamindar Gali.

8. We made this trip in October which is Autumn. The greenary had slowly turned golden and it was truly a wonderful sight to see.

9. This area is still raw and lot of infrastructure is coming up for tourism.

[ruzbehxyz]

Introduction:

The current ceasefire along the LoC between India and Pakistan, which came into effect in February 2021, is one such step towards peace and development in the region. Tourism and infrastructure development is another step. As a step towards facilitating border tourism, the Government, in collaboration with the Indian Army, is rapidly undertaking the task of opening up and developing infrastructure in certain border destinations and unknown valleys which have the potential for tourism. Over the past 2 years, Kashmir has seen a significant surge in visitors to lesser-known spots, some of which are close to, and some right on the Line of Control (LoC). This accomplishment owes it's success to the reduction of infiltration to near zero and thus establishment of peace in the valley. With the security situation improving in the valley, the border areas which used to be out of bounds for civilians, have been gradually opened up, prompting the locals to convert their houses into homestays. Consequently, this transformation has breathed new life among the local Kashmiri population, who are tired and for decades have seen the worse by way of insurgency, terrorism and political conflicts, which have ruined their day to day life and also loss of near and dear ones.

Some of the areas on the border which are currently opened for tourism are - Teetwal (Karnah valley), Keran (Keran valley) and Machil valley. Gurez valley was opened sometime back. We will look at each place in detail.


Rough Google map representation of the area of travel.

The area of travel revolves mainly around the Shamshabari Range of mountains (SSBR).
The little known Shamshabari is the northern most mountain range of Kashmir, spanning the entire north of the valley, like a crown capping the head. It is an offshoot of the Great Himalayan range. SSBR emanates from Kala Pahar in the west and joins the Great Himalayas near Kaobal Gali in the east. This snow clad range which is approximately 220 km long, is with a varying elevation between 11,000 to 14,500 feet. The important passes on the SSBR from west to east are Tut Mari Gali, Nastachun Pass, Pharkian Gali, Zamindar Khan Gali and Razdan Pass. Each pass marks the boundary and has a unique valley on the other side. From SSBR several minor ridges run towards the Kishanganga (Neelum) river into PoK. From east to west some of these ridges are Hajibal, Naushera, Tand, Mungerkala, Gugaldhar, Gujardur, Singer, Guthur and Kalsuri. In Tangdhar sector, the Sari Ridge emerging from the SSBR runs in a North South direction from Teethwal to Gabdori nar and forms the LoC opposite Lipa Valley. Lipa or Leepa valley is straddled between Kafir Khan ridge running west from Kala Pahar and the Sari ridge.

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The formation of the LoC and the division of Jammu & Kashmir:

This is a very vast topic and out of the scope of discussion here. Hence I will explain in brief with some diagrams.


Source: Indian Defence review.
Link: http://www.indiandefencereview.com/w...lash_Point.jpg

When British India gained Independence in 1947, two separate nations were created - India & Pakistan. However Maharaja Hari Singh, the ruler of the princely state of Jammu & Kashmir decided to remain Independent. In October the same year, the Maharaja faced a rebellion from the locals in Poonch, in favour of Pakistan. Taking advantage of this, Pakistan started arming the rebels and began invading Kashmir under Code name 'Operation Gulmarg'. The Maharaja then appealed to the Indian government to send troops and sought desperate help. It was Lord Mountbatten who said to the Indian rulers that it was improper for the Indians to send their troops to Kashmir, until such time that the Maharaja accedes to India. This was readily agreed by the then PM Jawaharlal Nehru and his ministers. Finally the Maharaja signed the Instrument of Accession on 26th Oct. 1947. The very next day, an Infantry Battalion was flown to Srinagar using many civilian and Air Force aircrafts, as in those days the Jammu- Srinagar road was just a track.

Then on 31st Dec. 1947, India approached the UN Security council to resolve the Kashmir issue. The Security Council established a UN Commission (United Nations Commission for India and Pakistan — UNCIP). After negotiations with the two sides, the Commission passed a resolution in August 1948. The resolution dealt with ceasefire, terms for truce, and procedures for negotiation regarding the plebiscite. Both the countries accepted the resolution and a ceasefire was achieved on 31 December 1948. Finally the Karachi Agreement was signed in 1949 by the military representatives of both countries, thus establishing a Cease-Fire Line (CFL), most of which became the LoC in 1972.

In Aug. 1965, Pakistan launched 'Operation Gibraltar' which eventually led to the 2nd Indo-Pak war. This war caused thousands of casualties on both sides and witnessed the largest engagement of armored vehicles and the largest tank battle since World War II. Hostilities between the two countries ended after a ceasefire was declared through UNSC Resolution following a diplomatic intervention by the Soviet Union and the United States.

The 1971 war which was the 3rd Indo-Pak War was an armed conflict between India and Pakistan that occurred during the Bangladesh Liberation War in East Pakistan from 3 December 1971 to 16 December 1971. During this war, Pakistan opened the Western front in Kashmir. Some areas were taken by India. The ceasefire subsequently led to the Shimla agreement in 1972. The Line of control (LoC) came into existence from the Shimla agreement signed between India and Pakistan on 02nd July 1972. Both nations agreed to rename the ceasefire line as the "Line of Control" and pledged to respect it without prejudice to their respective positions. Hence the LoC is a military control line — a line which does not constitute a legally recognized international boundary, but serves as the de facto border. Apart from minor details, the line is roughly the same as the original 1949 cease-fire line.

Though it is conveniently called a line, on the ground it breaks all the laws of linearity. It follows no regular principles, such as, watershed in the mountains, defined natural features in the plains, or river edges. The meandering, and at places militarily illogical, LoC moves mindlessly on mountain spurs with a few high and low posts held by opposing sides on a single mountain. It is not uncommon to find an Indian post in a depression surrounded by Pakistani ones on a high ground and vice-versa. Some posts are as close as 100 metres of each other. Apart from causing geographical divisions, such as, mountains, farmlands and rivers, the LoC has divided families, with one half living across the line which has known no control ever since it came into being.
Given the unbridled nature of the LoC, those who are bound by duty to keep vigil at the treacherous forward posts prefer to keep their heads down. Any uncalculated move has the potential of getting punished by the enemy fire, especially on ranges where some posts are so close to one another that on a good day the foes get into a friendly banter.

Source: https://forceindia.net/line-no-control/

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The Division of the erstwhile state of Jammu & Kashmir:


Source: Created by the US Central Intelligence Agency and hosted by the University of Texas-Austin Perry-Castañeda Library Map Collection.

The former princely state of Jammu & Kashmir is divided into various parts, all of which are rightfully claimed by India.

1. Union territories of 'Jammu and Kashmir' and 'Ladakh': These territories were under India since Independence in 1947. Formerly the Union territories were called Jammu & Kashmir state till 2019, prior to abrogation of Article 370.

2. PoK: India calls the territory occupied by Pakistan as PoK or Pakistan occupied Kashmir, while Pakistan calls it as Azad Kashmir. They even have a separate flag for it. This area borders Pakistan's Punjab area to the South and Kyber Pakhtunwala province to the west. PoK also includes some border areas of old Kashmir, mostly centered around the Neelam valley. To the East, PoK is separated by the LoC with India. The capital of PoK is Muzaffarabad while Mirpur is the largest city.

3. Gilgit-Baltistan: Formerly called as Northern Areas, remained an amorphous entity for many decades. This area is under Pakistan. It borders PoK to the south, Khyber Pakhtunwala to the west, Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan to the north, Xinjiang region of Tibet to the east and Ladakh to the South-east. This area was taken by Pakistan in 1947-48. After the Karachi agreement of 1949, this area came under direct control of Pakistan. However the region did not find mention in the Constitution of Pakistan. Gilgit is the capital of this region, while Skardu is the largest city.

4. Trans-Karakoram tract or Shaksgam tract: This area was transferred to China by Pakistan in 1963 according to the agreement between the two countries. Although the Shaksgam tract was never under the control of Pakistan since 1947, in the 1963 Agreement, Pakistan recognized Chinese sovereignty over the Shaksgam tract, while China recognized Pakistani sovereignty over the Gilgit-Baltistan area, and a border based on actual ground positions was recognized as the international border by China and Pakistan.

5. Siachen glacier area: The northernmost point of the Line of Control is known as NJ9842, beyond which lies the Siachen Glacier, which became a bone of contention in 1984. India holds favourable positions in the glacier. The conflict led to a new line which is called AGPL (Actual Ground Position Line). Siachen is the highest battlefield in the most world, with Bana top being the highest outpost at 20,500 feet. The 1949 Karachi Agreement and 1972 Simla Agreement did not clearly mention who controlled the glacier, merely stating that the cease-fire Line terminated at NJ9842. UN officials presumed there would be no dispute between India and Pakistan over such a cold and barren region.

6. Aksai-Chin area: Aksai Chin area is largely a vast high-altitude desert bordering Ladakh. In the southwest, mountains up to 7,000 m. extending southeast from the Depsang Plains form the de facto border or LAC (Line of Actual Control) between Aksai Chin and Ladakh. Despite this region being nearly uninhabitable and having no resources, it remains strategically important for China as it connects Tibet and Xinjiang. In 1951-57, China built a road connecting Xinjiang and western Tibet, of which 179 km. ran south of the Johnson Line through the Aksai-Chin region claimed by India. Aksai-Chin was easily accessible to the Chinese but was more difficult for the Indians to reach due to steep mountains. The Indians did not learn of the existence of the road until 1957, which was confirmed when the road was shown in Chinese maps published in 1958. The construction of this highway was one of the triggers for the Sino-Indian War of 1962.

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Out of the total area of Jammu and Kashmir (2,22,236 sq. km), about 35 per cent (78,114 sq. km) is under illegal occupation by Pakistan, and about 2 per cent (5,180 sq. km) has been handed over by it to China, which is already in illegal occupation of an additional 17 per cent in the Aksai-Chin area (37,555 sq. km). The total area of PoK excluding Gilgit-Baltistan is about 13,297 sq. km. This implies that India controls about 46 per cent (1.01 lakh sq. km) of the erstwhile state of J&K. Out of this area, about 26 per cent forms part of the Jammu division, 16 per cent the Kashmir division and the remaining 58 per cent the Ladakh-Kargil division. But the proportional distribution of the population in these divisions is 43 per cent in Jammu, 55 per cent in Kashmir and 2 per cent in Ladakh. India controls 46 per cent of the land area and 61 per cent of its population. Pakistan controls 35 per cent of the land while China controls the remaining 19 per cent including the Shaksgam Valley area.

Source: General N.C. Vij, The Kashmir Conundrum. The Quest for Peace in a Troubled Land, 2021, p.8 &9.

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Akhnoor:

On Day 1 of the trip, we drove from Delhi to Akhnoor in J&K. We were 7 of us in two SUV's - Ford Endeavour 3.2L 4x4 and Toyoya Hilux 4x4.



At the meet point in Delhi.



The group.



The entry to J&K.



View from our room at JKTDC, Akhnoor.


Sightseeing in Akhnoor includes the Akhnoor fort.


Source: Daily Excelsior.
Link: https://www.dailyexcelsior.com/akhno...site-in-north/

On the banks of the Chenab river stands the Akhnoor fort in the town of the same name.
ASI has declared it as a protected site. Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India have excavated items and pottery belonging to the Harappan period and established the fact that Akhnoor was one of the last bastions of the Indus Valley civilization.
The town was named Akhnoor by Mughal Emperor Jahangir who once visited the area and the fort on the advice of a saint when his eyes got infected while returning from Kashmir. Amazingly, Jahangir’s eyes were cured by the fresh air of the town, blowing over the river Chenab. Hence he named the town Ankhon-ka-noor (The light of the eyes) and since the place came to be known as Akhnoor.
Tha latest construction of the Fort was started by Mian Tegh Singh on the pattern of Mughal forts and completed by his successor Raja Alum Singh in the early 19th century AD and later it was repaired by Maharaja Gulab Singh also in 19th century AD. The Raj Tilak ceremony of founder of J&K State-Maharaja Gulab Singh-was held here on June 16, 1822. On a raised platform of Jiapota below the Fort, Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab performed the coronation ceremony and enthroned Gulab Singh-the Maharaja of Jammu.

Further reading: https://www.tribuneindia.com/1999/99...day/head13.htm

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Poonch area & Chakan da bagh on the LoC:

On Day 2 of the trip, we headed towards Mughal road and diverted to Bhimber gali - Tota gali and onto Poonch.

Route taken: Akhnoor - Sundarbani - Naushera - Rajouri - Bhimber Gali / BG - Tota gali - Jarra wali gali - Poonch. This is NH44A which runs from Jammu to Poonch. We stayed at Poonch and on the next day visited Chakan Da Bagh.




Bhimber Gali / BG:
Bhimber Gali is a village in the Poonch district of Jammu and Kashmir. It is often called BG locally as an abbreviated form of Bhimber Gali. It is named after a mountain pass "Bhimber Gali" on the mountain ridge separating the Poonch River and the Rajouri Tawi basins. Bhimber Gali lies close to the LOC and is a junction where four roads meet, one from Hamirpur Balakote, second from Rajouri, third from Mendhar and fourth from Poonch. Being close to LoC it is heavily guarded by the Bhimber Gali Brigade of the Army. This area borders PoK and thus the surrounding areas often used to remain in news for cross LoC ceasefire violations but now the guns have fallen silent.



Sangam complex at Bhimber Gali.



Rabbits inside Sangam complex.



Rabbits inside Sangam complex.



Opening plaque.


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Poonch:
Poonch (or Punch) is a town and the administrative headquarters of the Poonch district. The town is at an elevation of 1,021 m (3,349 ft), on the banks of the Poonch River. The Poonch river originates in the Pir Panjal range and flows west until the town of Poonch, after which it turns southwest. The Pir Panjal range of mountains separates the Poonch Valley from the Kashmir Valley. With the completion of the Mughal Road in 2010, via the Pir Panjal Pass, there is now a direct road link between the two areas.




Poonch Fort has a rich history and cultural significance in the region. The fort was built in the 16th century and was later expanded by various rulers, including the Mughals and the Dogras. The fort was strategically located on a hilltop overlooking the Poonch River and served as a defensive structure to protect the region from invading armies. The importance of this Fort was many fold when Poonch was a separate state which was ruled by the Raja’s of the time it may be noted that the poonch was a separate state before 1947.

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Chakan Da Bagh:-
This is a trade center opened in 2008, located on the LoC and on the Poonch-Rawlakote road at a distance of about 8 kms. west of Poonch Town. Loaded trucks from PoK would arrive every week and unload for onward transportation. Similarly, the loaded trucks of Jammu and Poonch would cross the LoC for unloading on the other side. Apart from this, persons of divided Kashmiri families would cross the LoC from the either side, also halted at this place for security checkup and Immigration.










Ahead of Chakan Da Bagh centre, is the Zero Line on the LoC. We took special permission and were taken in an Armored Army vehicle to the Zero Line, which was within a thick wooded area.


Photo taken with permission.

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Mughal road & Peer ki gali:

From Poonch, we headed east towards Mughal road via Peer ki gali and ended the day at Tangmarg, below Gulmarg.

Route: Poonch - Surankot - Bafliaz - (Mughal road) - Peer ki Gali - Shopian - Pulwama - Srinagar bypass - Tangmarg. (210 kms).













Mughal road:
Jammu-Srinagar National Highway or NH44, is the main road connecting the cities of Jammu and Srinagar. It is indeed a better and shorter way to travel between the two cities but it is definitely not the only one. There actually exists another route that is far more scenic, less crowded and takes you through some internal parts of Kashmir. It has existed for far longer than the regular NH44 highway. This is the historical Mughal road, which was build during the Mughal era. The route today is as follows: Jammu - Akhnoor - Naushera - Rajouri - Bafliaz - Peer ki gali - Shopian - Srinagar.

Mughal road is the route that was used by Mughal Emperor Akbar's Army to conquer Kashmir in 1586. It is a road that climbs up the Pir Panjal range, at an astoundingly beautiful pass called the Peer Ki Gali, before descending into the Vale of Kashmir at the town of Shopian.
The Mughal Road actually started in Gujrat (now in Pakistan) and travelled to Bhimber (just across the border in India), from where it went to Rajouri. Then it crossed a place called Chingus. This is a villge, off the main road, in the forest. The Chingus serai (resthouse) is one of the many medieval Mughal serais built on this road. On November 8, 1627, Emporer Jehangir died here en route to Delhi. Little ahead is Rajouri, from where the road twists and turns down to Bafliaz, and then starts the beautiful ascent to the Peer Ki Gali. Legend has it that in June 326 BCE, Alexander's beloved horse, Bucephalus, died here from injuries sustained in the battle against Porus, which put an end to Alexander's dreams of world conquest.

With various hi cups before and after Independence, the Mughal road was finally opened in 2010.


Source: The Culture of Travel on the Mughal Imperial Road by Parshati Dutta.
Source link & further reading: https://www.sahapedia.org/the-cultur...-imperial-road





Peer Ki gali:-
Peer ki Gali, also spelled as Pir Ki Gali, is the highest point on Mughal Road, at an elevation of 3,485m (11,433 ft) above sea level. With Bafliaz on one side and Shopian on the other, this pass is almost the midpoint of Mughal Road.

The 1890 Gazetteer of Kashmir records the name of the pass as 'Pir Panjal', which in fact is the name of the Mountain range. The Gazetteer also records the presense of the grave of a saint who use to reside on the summit during the summer months and from whom the pass gets its name.

There is a shrine at the top of the pass, due to which it gets it's name as 'Peer Ki Gali'. It belongs to a saint, Sheikh Ahmed Karim, who is believed to have meditated here in ancient times. The word ‘Peer’ means saint and the word Gali means ‘Pass’. Hence the name Peer ki Gali. Contrary to common belief, the shrine at the top is not actually a Mazaar but a meditating place only.

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Uri & Kaman bridge on the LoC:

Uri is a small town and a tehsil in the Baramulla district of J&K. Prior to the partition of Kashmir, the road linked Uri to Rawalpindi and Srinagar. The small town of Uri has long been in the line of enemy fire with soldiers controlling access from the Line of Control between India and PoK. There is also a Bollywood film called "Uri", which is based on India's surgical strike after a terrorist attack in J&K.

If you the see the map below, we travelled in a circular detour route from Poonch to Uri (about 270 kms.), whereas the direct distance is just about 56 kms. The area in between is inside PoK and hence not accessible from India. The route goes above the Haji Pir pass which was taken by Indian Army in the 1965 war, only to be handed over in 1966, back to Pakistan.
The Haji Pir Bulge provides a direct ingress to both the Jammu region and the Kashmir Valley. And it is through this area where heavy infiltration of terrorists takes place. Handing over the area was one of the biggest diplomatic blunders by the Indian Government and regretted till date by the Army. As late, Lieutenant General Dayal (then Major), the hero of the Battle for Haji Pir, subsequently said, “The Pass would have given India a definite strategic advantage. It was a mistake to hand it back. Our people don’t read maps”.



For further reading: Operation Gibraltar, Operation Grand Slam, & Operation Bakshi.

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Kaman Post / Kaman Aman Setu:
Kaman Post is about 18 kms. from Uri town. It was named so in 1956 after Late Lieutenant Colonel Kaman Singh Pathania, MVC, the hero of Battle of Tithwal (1948). It is the first post of Indian Army on National Highway 1A, the Baramulla - Kaman road and leads to Muzaffarabad in PoK. Kaman bridge or 'Bridge of Peace' is a 'bridge over troubled waters' and lies over the Jhelum river, which acts as the LoC. It is about 220 feet long.

On April 7, 2005, the then Indian prime minister, Dr. Manmohan Singh had flagged off the first cross-LOC bus service called 'Karwaan-e-Aman', or peace caravan that connected Srinagar and Muzaffarabad in PoK. Later, the cross-LOC trade, established as a barter trade, began on October 21, 2008, across two routes i.e. Uri-Muzaffarabad and Poonch-Chakan Da Bagh-Rawalakot. Traders on either side of the LOC were permitted to exchange 21 mutually agreed items. In 2018-19, India suspended all cross-LOC trade and human crossing on grounds that the trade routes were being misused for funneling illegal weapons, narcotics, terrorism and fake currency. However, their suspension in April 2019 was seen as a regressive move and many believe it was linked with the government’s decision to abrogate Article 370 and 35A five months later on August 5, 2019.

Off late, the Kaman Post has undergone a transformation, with new features including a 60-feet-high national flag, viewpoints equipped with binoculars, a kiosk offering local items, cafeteria and a new resting place. The Army has also put up busts of 1947-1948 war martyrs enroute to Kaman, at what is now called ‘Veer Path’ to inspire and educate the younger generation. A large map of ‘Akhand Bharatvarsh’ has also been put up with pictures of Indian rulers and a map showing Pakistan as part of India.

People can now visit the Kaman Post by providing their Aadhaar card or Government ID card to the authorities. About 18 kms. before the post, you need to register yourself and your vehicle, obtain a token which has to be shown at all checkposts, and you are good to go. Visitors are only permitted to tour the area during daylight hours in order to maintain the sensitivity of the region. The local administration is also considering arranging school trips to the Kaman Post as a means of instilling a sense of patriotism in young students.

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Bangus valley:

On the third night, we stayed at Reshawari JKTDC rest house on the banks of the Mawar river. This is a convenient place to explore places like Bangus valley, Tutmari Gali etc., as there are currently no stay options in the Bangus area.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/HfcKDTz42TCPhnZU9

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKHs...?feature=share

Bangus valley:-
Bangus valley is the new upcoming destination near Handwara. The valley is bowl shaped with green meadows having immense beauty and heart throbbing landscapes. Word Bungus is derived from joining two words ‘Bun’ which means forest and ‘Gus’ meaning grass. The old Gazetteer of Kashmir and old maps refer to this place as 'Bangas'.

Infamous for the cross-border infiltration, the Bangus valley has witnessed fierce gunfights between the militants and security forces in the past. Dozens of militants were killed in these encounters.Today it is one of Kashmir's best kept secret.

The principal valley is locally known as "Boud Bangus" or Bada Bangus (Big Bangus) and a smaller valley known as "Lokut Bangus" or Chota Bangus (Small Bangus) lies on the northern side of the main valley. The valley has an estimated area of about 300 sq.km. and approx. at 3000 m. altitude. It consists of a linear elliptical bowl aligned along the east–west axis and is surrounded by thick forest. This marvellous valley consists of a number of small streams, which include the Roshan Kul, Tiliwan Kul and Douda Kul being fed by the waters of the Qazinag and Satkulnag springs. During the winter season, the whole of Bangus Valley is covered with a white carpet of snow, consequently turning the valley into a world of white beauty.

Bangus is full of diverse variety of flora and fauna. The meadows and the slopes of the side plateaus are covered with a range of flowers and medicinal plants. Fresh water fishes of moderate size and their fingerlings inhabit the streams. The valley's forests and plains serve as the breeding, feeding and protection grounds for many wild animal species. The animal species include the musk deer, antelope, snow leopard, brown bear, black bear, monkeys, and red fox. A large number of residents and migratory birds can also be found feeding and breeding in the valley. A field study carried out in Bungus in 2013-15 reveals that 75 species of plants belonging to 44 families were used as traditional medicine by the local Gujjar community for curing several diseases.

The unexplored and virgin Bangus valley is actually a hidden paradise in north Kashmir and has a low tourist influx. But once the area is commercialised, it will be impossible to save and protect the hidden paradise from the tourism mess. The valley has a very fragile ecosystem and if proper steps are not taken, we will soon see a disaster unfolding.

Till recently there were two approach roads and now the third one is linked as well. An online travelogue of 2011 and 2012 revealed that there was no road upto the valley and the visitors had to take a pony or trek through which would take more than 3 hours one way.

Route No.1: From North - Teepee Forest rest house (enroute to NC pass) - Bari Baikh - Lokut Bangus - Boud Bangus. Tar road till Lokut. Lokut to Boud Bangus was under construction.
Route No.2: From West - via Handwara, approx 30 kms. Last stretch is a dirt track which should be ready soon.
Route No.3: From West - Handwara - Kandi Khas - Qalamabad - Reshawari Guest house - Lokut Bangus. Just before the Kashtwar bridge, there is a right turn. You will not miss this as there is a prominent signboard. The road ahead goes to Tutmari Gali. After taking the right you will cross Nildori and then reach Bangus valley.

As per the sign-board, the total distance --- Kashtwar - Nildori - Boud Bangus - Lokut Bangus - Teepee is about 41 kms. (Route 3 to 1- south to north route). We did this route. With various bends around Bangus valley, the actual route seemed much longer.


The Bangus area for reference only.



























Road construction in full swing between Chota & Bada Bangus.



The signboard on the Teepee side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a_wq3MBJJs

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Tut Mari Gali / TMG:

This area is very close to the LoC and hence restricted. Special permission is required to visit and no photography.

Route: Handwara - Kandi Khas - Naugam - Reshwari guest house - (Diversion for Bangus valley) - Kashtwar - TMG - Peer baba shrine - Kaiyan.



Tut Mari Gali or TMG as called by the Army, overlooking the Lipa / Leepa valley is a very strategic area for the Army from the Defence point of view.
Tutmar Gali is also listed in the 1890 Gazetteer of Kashmir. It was described as being a level path, but obstructed in places by fallen trees. The Gazetteer also mentions that the pass remains closed for four months in a year and that the Kashmir side of the pass offer excellent pasturage for the Gujars inhabiting in the Karnao valley.

In the 1949 agreement, the Cease-Fire Line ran through TMG and the area was to be shared by both sides, posts to be held 500 yards on either side of the Gali.
In the 1971 war, across Tutmari Gali, the 9 Sikh from the Indian Army captured Thanda Pani and the Kaiyan bowl area, which was later renamed as Three Pimples. 'Bowl’ in military jargon implies a small valley surrounded by steep mountain ridges. About 46 sq.kms. of area was captured. However a small enclave was still in the enemy's hands, when the cease-fire was announced.



Fast forward to May 1972, Three Pimples or Heights witnessed high-intensity battle. Pakistan launched a surprise attack with over two battalions supported by heavy artillery support — a ratio of nine attackers to one defender. Some peacetime activities had started, thus the 9 Sikh company was pretty under-strength, but egged on by Major Pancholy, they fought it out till most were killed or wounded. Pancholy, critically wounded, was evacuated along with only a handful of men.
Read full story here: https://www.ssbcrack.com/2018/04/sto...-pancholy.html

In 1972, there was a deadlock in certain places along the LoC especially along certain key areas like Thako Chak near Jammu and the Kaiyan area across Tut Mari Gali. To resolve the issue Field Marshal Sam Maneckshaw flew to Lahore and had two separate meetings with the Pakistani counterparts. Though the then PM Indira Gandhi authorized him to give away Thako Chak, FM Sam would not give away so easily. Finally he managed to get back Thako Chak in return of some area in Kaiyan that was not so valuable. (Leadership in the Indian Army by Major General V.K. Singh).

The Leepa Valley in PoK was long considered a “safe haven” for terrorists. Tut Mari Gali was one of the four locations used by the Army for the 2016 Surgical Strikes by India. Terror camps in Leepa Valley in PoK were the main targets of the September stealth operation.

From a viewpoint at India’s Tut Mari Gali (TMG) post, one gets a good view of the Lipa valley in the distance. In place of an underground Pakistani medical post in the Kaiyan bowl, at present, the Indian army has a full-fledged medical Field Surgical Section, which is the army’s only surgical unit in the area before flying a casualty to the corps hospital in Srinagar.
In the mountainous sector of the LoC, the importance of the Lipa Valley for both India and Pakistan equals that of the Haji Pir pass alone.
A look at the Lipa Valley, with a local population of about 35,000 living in about 25 villages, from the TMG post underscores its importance. The Lipa Valley is surrounded by four mountain ranges – the Shamsabari, which runs from east to west and is six to seven kms from the LoC, the Kafir Khan, the Kasinag and the Chota Kasinag. The most important amongst these ranges is the Shamsabari, which slopes into the Valley on the other side. India dominates the Shamsabari range. If Pakistan manages to get a better foothold on the Shamsabari range, it would then be looking into the Valley from the top. This would help Pakistan to provide better support to infiltrators from this area. Moreover, once Pakistan obtains a firm lodgement on the Shamsabari range, its troops could easily roll into the Valley at a time of its own choosing in a war. The converse is also true. An occupation of the Lipa Valley by India would deny Pakistan a major tactical gain of using the Shamsabari range as a lodgement for sending its regular troops into the Valley, and of assisting infiltration.

Source: https://forceindia.net/line-no-control/



Hazardous operations to Kaiyan bowl by the Indian Air Force:-

During the 1971 war in the Western Sector, the Indian Army had captured some territory across the Tutmarhi Gali pass. There was a problem in supplying these troops in the Kaiyan bowl who were face to face with the enemy. Air supply by helicopter was considered the best option. The difficulty lay in maneuvering the helicopter into the bowl as it could not maintain straight and level flight after crossing the pass, as it entailed flying over enemy locations. Our troops were so located that the drop had to be made immediately after crossing the pass.

The greater difficulty lay in crossing the pass at a height above three kilometers and immediately descending about 800 meters while avoiding flying over enemy posts. 109 Helicopter Unit then based in Jammu operated a two helicopter detachment at Baramulla for these operations. After take off from Baramulla the helicopter would climb to 3.2 kilometers, a tricky altitude for a Mi 4 helicopter as it required engagement of the supercharger at that altitude. Once over the pass the helicopter would be put into autorotation to quickly lose height in a spiral auto-rotative descent. Rotors would be re-engaged over the DZ just before the drop, the stick would be eased back, the load ejected by the ejection crew, and the pilots would then search for updrafts along the mountainside to kick the aircraft back over the pass.

This rather hazardous operation continued up to mid June 1972 when one helicopter, flown by two Flying Officers, was finally lost in the operation. Miraculously, there was no injury to the crew. One of the officers involved in the crash recently retired as an Air Vice Marshal. Those young pilots who undertook the sorties to Kaiyan for six months are now grizzled veterans but do consider the operation to be the most hazardous flying that they have undertaken.

Source: https://www.bharat-rakshak.com/cms/s...33396150074515



Peer Baba shrine of TMG:-
Ahead of Tut Mari Gali lies the Peer Baba shrine. The track extends from TMG to Thanda Pani and to Kaiyan bowl.

The Saint ‘Peer Baba’ whose real mame masanag Saad Syed, was born in village Devikot, Muzaffarabad. As per legend, ‘Baba’ was a very carefree person, loved nature and never cared about materialism.

In search of solitude and truth, he used to pray to and worship “Allah”. Nobody ever knew what ‘Baba’ used to eat to keep himself alive. His dress for all session was alike and he never cared for his personal and human needs. Soon his prayers were answered by the Almighty and ‘Baba’ became a sage by his virtues because he could cure disease, wipe off sadness, bless people with good luck fertility and prosperity. Due to the endowment of these religious virtues, he was bestowed with the serene religious rank of ‘Peer’ The Sage.

As per folklore, in late nineteenth century, The entire area of Baramulla, Devikot and Naukot witnessed a severe drought, taking the lives of many humans, livestock and wild animals. The 1ocal population approached the baba with this problem. Saddened by the plignt of the people, the Baba created a crack in a big boulder from which a cold stream of water gushed out thus putting an end to the miseries of the local population. It is believed that the source of water was at Thanda Pani Spur and it still remains a perennial source of water in this area. Even after his death, the legend of “Peer Baba” remained alive and people worshipped him and continued offening prayers. During the partition in 1947, the place where the legend resided went to Pakistan. Till the Second Indo – Pak war of 1965, people from Indian villages like Patwari, Reshwari and Naugam used to offer prayers and attended the annual celebrations of the ‘Peer Baba’ festival.

But after the war, this religious transit of local populace ceased. Even when the attendance of villagers dwindied at the actual location, the legend remained alive and people continued offering prayers and as per local lore, majority of their prayers were answered fruitfully. After the 1971 Indo -Pak conflict, the valiant actions of Indian Army saw this piece of historical and symbolic land being recaptured. Even today, people have tremendous faith in the legend of ‘Peer Baba’ and they continue to offer their prayers to him.

Source: https://www.radiochinar.in/kaiyan-bowl-peer-baba/

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Sadhna Pass, Karnah valley & Teetwal on the LoC:

Did you know that there is a pass in Kashmir named after the Bollywood actress Sadhna ? Read on.

After crossing Bangus valley, we reached Teepee near Chowkibal and then turned left on the Kupwara - Teetwal main road. As we take a left, the climb to NC pass / Sadhna pass starts.


Sadhna pass / Sadhna Top:
Other names: Nastha Chun Pass / Nathi Chapa Gali / NC pass.
The Kashmir Gazetteer records this pass as 'Nattishannar Gali'.
Altitude: 10,020 ft. above m.s.l.



Located 48 kms. from Kupwara via NH701, the Sadhna pass seperates the Kashmir valley from the Karnah valley, and is located on the Shamsabari range of mountains. It was previously called Nastha Chun Pass which literally means “Cut Nose Pass”, as people don’t feel their nose here due to strong and colds winds blowing throughout the year. The Kashmiri name of this Pass is “Nathi Chapa Gali” which means “Numb Nose Pass” due to the same reason. The Army referes it as NC pass. In the older days, when the pass would be snowed out, the locals would use a detour route via the Kakua Gali slight North.

The pass is popularly known as the Sadhna pass, named after the famous Bollywood actress Sadhna Shivdasani who visited the Pass after the 1965 Ind-Pak war to interact with soldiers.



Late Sadhana Shivdasani, popularly known by the mononym Sadhana and also known as the 'Mystery girl', appeared in many successful Hindi films of 1960's and 70's. Acknowledged as one of the top leading actresses of Hindi cinema, Sadhana was the highest-paid actress of her time.

The name 'Sadhna' does not end here. Recently on May 18, 2023, a baby girl was delivered under daunting circumstances wherein the Indian Army Chinar Corps medical staff at Sadhna Pass sprung into action and assisted in the emergency delivery, ensuring the safety of both mother and newly born child. The baby girl was named 'Sadhna' by her parents in recognition of the location and to honour the efforts of the Indian Army.

The older generation of Kashmiris living in the shadow of the pass believe that blind and deaf fairies who live high on the mountain, kill people in winter.

Recently in 2023, The Indian Army has created a transit facility at Sadhna Pass to mitigate the inconvenience and hardships of local population and tourists. The transit facility includes a waiting area and a refreshment corner. A number of informative boards have also been placed depicting Army operations, the rich history, culture and traditions of Karnah valley. The view point offers a panoramic view of the picturesque valley of Karnah. The tourists can also collect souvenirs and mementos which have been made available at the facility.

The pass is heavily guarded by the Army and all persons and vehicles are scanned for any illegical items like Narcotics, Arms, Ammunication etc.











About 20 kms. from Sadhna top is Tangdhar and about 14 kms. ahead is Teetwal, the village on the LoC.

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Teetwal:-
Teetwal (also spelt Tithwal) is a small village on the banks of the Kishanganga river which is the LoC between India and PoK, and whose residents are constantly under the shadow of enemy snipers.
The 1890 Gazetteer of Kashmir, records Titwal village with only 10 families. Today 187 families with approx. 1035 souls live in Teetwal (according to the 2011 Census).
Before 1947, Teetwal was a trading hub where hundreds of shops lined up selling ghee, honey, walnut kernels, rajmash, apricot, skins of sheep and goats, woollen blankets etc. Those commodities would reach Teetwal from Karnah, Leepa and Neelam valleys. Traders were associated with the business until 1947 and pilgrims used to travel through this route to reach Sharda temple, now in ruins in Neelum valley of PoK. Today Teetwal has no commercial importance. The place changed after the 1947-48 war. The Indian Army captured Teetwal on May 23, 1948, the date annually celebrated as 'Teetwal day'. But that war forever changed Teetwal. Teetwal is one of the only regions in Kashmir valley that doesn’t receive snowfall. Its inhabitants would spend summers along with their livestock in Leepa valley’s Rishiyan Gali and temporarily settle there. Most of them couldn’t come back after 1948. Today the village on the other side is called Chilhana.

As per the Karachi Agreement of 1949, no construction is permitted within 500 yards of zero line on LOC and this "no construction zone" is considered a "no man's land" which is secured by both countries with landmines within their respective areas. India has constructed an Anti-Infiltration Obstacle System (AIOS) along the LoC. AIOS is a three-tiered fencing system with checkposts and wire fences where villagers are given passage based on the smart card based identity cards issued by the Indian Army. Teetwal is one of the villages which lie between the land-mined zero point on LoC and the 3 tiers of AIOS.














Local kids enjoying cricket in the Teetwal stadium.



Shaan-e-Titwal Stadium.



The Indian flag in India & the Pakistan + Azad Kashmir flag in PoK.


Teetwal bridge:
The 175-feet suspension bridge was initially used to exchange relief material on both sides. The Teetwal bridge was originally built by the British in 1931 on an older bridge, but was destroyed in 1948 when Pakistan tried to occupy Kashmir. However, in 1988, the bridge was jointly rebuilt by India and Pakistan. It had collapsed during the 2005 earthquake but was again rebuilt by both sides the same year.
A white line on the middle of the bridge, separates India from the Neelam Valley of PoK.
The bridge is one of five crossing points along the LoC that India and Pakistan opened in 2005 to allow estranged Kashmiri families to visit each other. Many families were separated when the ceasefire-line was formed in the year 1949. A family living on the India side, has relatives living on the PoK side. Earlier, in order to communicate, they would tie a letter/message with a stone and throw it to the other side of the river. However, later with things heating up, such means of communication turned into a nuisance and so it was prohibited. To give some respite to the families of both sides, an understanding was reached. The bridge over the Kishan Ganga River is officially opened, almost twice a month, for family members, who are then allowed to meet their relatives from the other side for a brief period of time. Until 2019, relatives from both sides of Teetwal would get a permit to go up to 'Meeting Point' on the bridge that connected two villages under the supervision of the Army. Those who did not get the permit sat on the narrower bank of the river and chatted endlessly. Except for the rains, the river is silent and one can hear what a person from across the river says. However, after the Pulwama attacks, 'Meeting Point' permits are not allowed. One village, two Nations. This is the story of Teetwal, a Kashmir village separated by a Bridge, which is no longer in use.

Tourists can now visit the bridge. Whenever there are visitors to the bridge, the Indian side informs the Pakistani soldiers on the other side on a local hotline so they don’t open fire.













Sharda temple in Teetwal:-
The Sharda Peeth temple in Teetwal was inaugrated on 22nd March 2023. The construction work on Sharda Peeth base temple at Teetwal started after locals handed over the land for construction of the temple in 2021. They also remained part of construction of the temple and it’s inauguration. A Gurudwara in the temple complex was also inaugurated on 01st May 2023.
Teetwal temple of Maa Sharda Devi was the base camp for Sharada Peeth yatra prior to partition. The temple was destroyed by tribal raiders in 1947. Sharada Peeth is situated barely 40 kilometers from Teetwal.


History of the Temple.



The temple with PoK in the background.



Inside the temple.



The route of the Sharda Peeth yatra.


Sangam Point, Teetwal:-

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Pharkiyan Gali & Keran village on the LoC:

From Teetwal, we retuned back towards NC pass. About one km. before the pass is 'Karnah kitchen', a Cafe recently opened in May 2023, with the efforts from the Army. There is no such facilty available from Chowkibal to Tangdhar and this will be a blessing for the locals and tourists who pass by from here.
Right from here a Military road bifurcates and ends at Pharkiyan Gali. This route is called the 'Ragini Sector' and the route is as follows - Karnah's kitchen - SM Hill - Taya - Ragini - Rangwar - Domari Gali - Fateh Gali - North Hill - Peer baba - Pharkiyan pass. This road running at an approximate altitude of 11,000 feet, traverses the Shamshabari ridge line, on the east, and offers a bird's eye view of the Shamshabari range and the valleys. Recently this route is converted to a tar road. On this route we cross the Ismail de dori peak at 3818 metres from the east, which is the highest point on this sector. This route is totally out of bounds for civilians and special permission is required. No photographs were taken due to restrictions.



Karnah's kitchen.



BRO board at Karnah's junction facing NC pass.



BRO board at Karnah's junction facing the valley.



Ragini taken from the car

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Pharkiyan Gali / P Gali / Firkiyan Gali:-
Pharkian Gali, also known as Pharkian Top, is a mountain pass at an altitude of 9634 ft. It is located at a distance of 35 kilometers from Kupwara. The road across the pass connects the valley of Keran with the rest of Kashmir. As per the 1890 Gazetteer, the pass is called 'Puthra Gali'.
Pharkian Top is a lot different than any other pass that we visited. While the rest of the passes are just the top of a mountain, Pharkiyan Gali is actually an Army base, heavily guarded with gates on both sides. The top of this pass, and the entire mountain for that matter, is occupied by the Indian Army. Hence, photography is not permitted at Pharkiyan Top, unlike the other passes that we visited.
The breathtaking 360 degrees view from the top leaves visitors in awe, with lush green forests, meadows, and glistening streams creating a truly enchanting experience.
To the East is Kaiyan ki Gali from where a new alignment road is coming up to Puta Khan Gali.









The junction just after Pharkiyan Gali. Left goes to Ragini sector from where we came and right goes to Keran.

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Keran village:
Keran is a Village which lies divided right on the LoC with one part in India in the Kupwara District of J&K and the other part in PoK which is called as Neelum valley. And the River Kishanganga (called Neelum by the other side) runs through it.

As travellers venture deeper into Keran, they are greeted by the unique architecture of wooden houses, some of which are abandoned and which have withstood the test of time. These architectural marvels stand tall as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the region and must be preserved for generations to come. Keran village has an interesting but tragic history that started with Partition, and it is still taking its toll. Some old houses also have bunkers to prevent the family from shelling. Frequent firing and heavy bombardments near the LoC forced many people to migrate from the region to the other side.

The village on the PoK side was literally just a stones throw away. The difference between the standard of living in the border villages of both the sides was stark. Same observed in Teetwal as well. The reason for such flourishing village on the PoK side was the creation of the highway with the aid from China, which passes through PoK. It is a shame that on the PoK side we have resorts, while on the Indian side we do not even have a hotel. Such was the neglect of these areas, which is slowly changing now.

As we entered Keran, we did not get the feeling of being on the LoC. The looks of the river and the resorts on the other side looked as if we are near some Himachali town. Loud music and disco lights till 10 PM., is what we witnessed. The music was so loud that we could request the DJ to play us some songs of our choice

On the PoK side, at one corner we could see the Pakistani flag and slogans like “I Love Neelam valley” and “Kashmir = Pakistan”.

At Keran, there is no network for cell phones and hence no internet. Its a restricted zone.

Our stay was arranged by the Army at a local's Homestay, who also runs a tented place right on the banks of the river.


Keran Post office.



Ancient architecture.



CCTV board near Flag area.



Ancient architecture.



Ancient architecture.



Owner of the Homestay.



View of PoK.



View of Fortuners, Marutis and Jeeps in PoK.



View of PoK.



Disco lighting.



Earling morning view from Homestay.



Locals kids posing for a photo.



Locals kids posing for a photo.



Posing for a photo.



Locals kids posing for a photo.



Proud to be Indian.



LoC view.



LoC view.



Sipping 'Kahwa' at the LoC.



Having breakfast on the LoC.



At the Post office.



At the Post office.



Zoomed in image of a slogan on the opposite side.

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Zamindar Gali & Machil valley:

Machil valley, another valley close to the LoC can be reached from Kupwara by crossing the Zamindar Gali or Z Gali.

Route: Kupwara - Kalaroos - Sarkuli - Z Gali - Dudi (Machil). The road continues upto Gautam for which Special permission from the Army is required.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG2wYjqRgdI

Zamindar Gali / Zamindar Khan Gali or Z Gali:
Zamindar Gali or Z Gali is situated at 10,662 feet, separates the Kashmir valley from the Machil valley. The Zamindar inhabitants of the Machil valley gave Z Gali it’s name. On a clear day you can see the Nanga Parbat (8126 m) peak in the background.

From Kupwara, one needs to head for Kalaroos. The road leading beyond Kalaroos is narrow and passes through rice fields. The road then reaches Sarkuli, the last inhabited village on the Kashmir plains side. After passing through dense conifer jungle, it emerges out at a Ziyarat, only to get into an unending lush pine forest. Finally, the road opens out at Zamindar Gali. The pass is home to a large army base.
The road remains open till the first winter snowfall. The area around Z Gali is flat and is called Koker Seena (the chicken chest) by the locals. It’s slopes are thickly wooded with Fir and Pine.







Peer Baba of Z gali:-
On the scenic mountain road from Kupwara to Machhal Valley, 3 km. short of Z Gali lies the Dargah of Baba Sayeed Kalandar Sahib. Popularly known as the Peer Baba, the Dargah exudes a spiritual aura and is considered sacred by locals. Baba Sayeed Kalandar is believed to have travelled from Baghdad to Machhal during the British times. He fell in love with the Machhal valley and settled at the location of the Dargah. During his lifetime, Baba acted as a protector of the people travelling to and from Machhal. The Dargah was established in the year 1965 and in the year 1985 a BSF Company occupied the area adjacent to the Dargah and looks after the shine.
A popular legend regarding the power of the Peer Baba as narrated by Sudarddin Dedar (Caretaker since 1998) pertains to the time when the road to Machhal was being constructed over the Z Gali. The original alignment of the road was very close to the Dargah and would have involved some damage to the dargah. The legend has it that the dozers were unable to carve the alignment and three dozers were irretrievably lost in the process. The caretaker then suggested changing the alignment and the road bypassing the dargah. The road was successfully made thereafter as per the new alignment. The old cutting of the road is still visible near the Dargah.
(Radio Chinar).

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Machil valley:-
After Z-Gali comes Machil, or the "fish" valley. This picturesque village abundant with streams and meadows is a nature-crafted landscape for all. Isolated and beautiful, Machil, also written as Matchil or Macchil valley lies very close to the LoC. Machil is basically a Dardic word meaning fish. Local folklore is that the name was given to the place on account of the abundance of fish in Machil streams.
Sitting at an altitude of approximately 8000 feet, Machil valley is a cluster of 15 villages with Matchil itself holding the central place of the valley. It is surrounded by Poshwari, Dabpal, Misri Bahak, Katwara, Chuntwari, Dudi, Hardurang etc. The population of this tehsil is above 2000. Most of the governmental offices and main market of the tehsil are at Dudi village.

In 1947, tribesmen from Pakistan had managed to reach Machil. However, they left with the onset of winter around November, after which the Indian Army secured Machil. In the past, Machil was known for being shelling-prone. The worst shelling was witnessed in 1999. The inhabitants even today live in constant fear of border shelling. The various bunkers in the villages indicate the crisis. In Chuntwari Bala, there are ancient caves which are used by the villagers for shelter during border shelling. The particular mountain has abundant caves and that is why people call it Hoi Bal, the mountain with caves.

In 2020, under Sobagyi scheme, electricity has reached Machil for the first time in history. Cell phone network has also reached the valley.
Since the Z Gali closes in Winter, more than 50% of the population migrates to Kashmir mainly to Lolab valley, for half of the year to escape the isolation.




















Shivaji Maharaj statue installed in 2022 at Machil by Maratha LI.

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Kalaroos caves & Lolab valley:

Kalaroos caves:
About 10 kms. from Kupwara is the village of Kalaroos famous for its caves. The Kalaroos caves are one of the most mysterious sites in the valley.
Kalaroos has come from the word 'Qil-e-Roos', which means Russian Fort.
The Satbaran Rocks sit above the Kalaroos village at around 1900 meters (6,234 feet) elevation. The stone has seven doors, known as 'SathBarr' in local parlance. Legend says that the doors symbolise seven distinct routes to Russia and other countries. A few meters away from the stone are some other caves, one of them being the Tramkhan, a crimson-hued copper mine cave. Inside this cave, there is a discoloured board with some foreign language written on it. Others believe that Satbaran was a temple of the Mahabharata era where the Pandavas used to worship. In reality no one knows the history behind the structure, who built it, or its age.

The myth was busted in Sep. 2018 by American explorers.

It was the Virginia based couple Amber and Eric Fies who led the exploration. They live in Purcellville (Virginia). Apart from Elite Power Stables, a stud farm, the Fies own and run North Star Adventure Consulting, LLC. They were accompanied by Dustin Kisner, their Ohio based Expedition Caving Adviser and an Indian expedition interpreter Vamsi Ramakrishna, a Kerala engineer who works with a software company, InfoCepts. Their support team comprising Tyson and Letha Anderson came from Maryland.

Eric Fies is a Fellow-Royal of the Geographical Society and has retired as Sergeant Major in the US army.
The team landed in Srinagar on September 20, and after getting support from the local population and the tourism department, they drove to Kalaroos on September 22. After a preliminary visit to the terrain, they eventually got into the caves on September 23. Before and after getting into the caves, they spent days in Srinagar, exploring the natural beauty, meeting people and understanding Kashmir. After they explored the caves, they gave a presentation about their findings to the local school students also.

The Satbaran Rocks sit above the Kalaroos village at around 1900 meters (6,234 feet) elevation. “There are seven carved openings in the rock and one carved opening on a smaller rock to the right, all oriented generally southwest,” the team later wrote in a detailed report about the expedition. “No one knows the history behind this structure, who built it, or its age. There is a local theory that this may have been a part of a larger structure, possibly a temple, which collapsed or was intentionally destroyed.”

The report carries a brief status report of the three cave systems. Here is what the team has written:

Cave-1

Cave-1 is the first cave reached beyond Satbaran Rock at 1,980 meters (6,496 feet) elevation. The first 50 meters are a narrow up-trending passage that is pinched down in some areas. This leads to a 15-meter shaft that opens to a small room. From here there is a 10-meter shaft, which opens to another room. Beyond that is a 5-meter up-trending passage that leads to a narrow horizontal passage terminating within 15 meters. We explored all leads off of the main passage and near the main entrance which all quickly terminated.

Cave-2

Cave-2 is located higher up on the mountainside at 2,020 meters (6,627 feet) elevation. It has the largest entrance of the three caves. The main passage is down-trending and terminates in 50 meters. It looks to have been filled in from a landslide or years of erosion. Local elders did not know if/when this cave was ever open.

Cave-3

Relative to the other caves, Cave-3 sits at the highest elevation on the mountain, 2,260 meters (7,415 feet). There is a 40-meter down-trending passage that leads to a pinched horizontal passage, which terminates in 20 meters. All leads off of the main passage were explored and all quickly terminated. The Indian Army attempted to explosively seal this cave, as corroborated by local people and evidenced by blast scarring near the cave entrance. This action was allegedly due to the presence of bears and/or militants. The year in which this happened is unclear. No signs of bears or recent human passage were present; however, the cave is currently being occupied by at least one mating pair of Himalayan porcupine.

Findings

Apart from recording the precise locations of the caves using a calibrated global positioning system (GPS), the team said that “all three main caves, secondary entrances and leads were explored until termination points were reached”.

They noted the possibility of “Cave-1 and Cave-2 could have been connected at one time, as Cave-1 is upward-trending and Cave-2 is downward trending, both on similar azimuths and elevations”. The explorers said that they cannot determine if the Cave-3 was like prior to the reported explosive demolition by the Indian Army.

“The team trekked along the ridgeline and thoroughly explored the terrain at each contour in search of other openings, but none were located,” the report says, insisting, “There are insufficient significant findings to support launching another expedition to map the caves”.

“We thoroughly explored both caves and did not find any passages going beyond several meters,” Eric Fie, one of the explorers told Video Volunteers, in a short Youtube video. “We went to upper and lower caves but did not find the tunnel that people speak about…It is a shame we cannot get into the longer tunnel that was blown up, demolished because that could have some longer value to the caving system, might have some archaeological significance deep back of the cave.”

Eric said the caves are very beautiful, and there are mineral deposits. “Beyond that, I do not see any archaeological value to any of the formations that we saw in the caves but definitely some geological value to a professional geologist,” Eric said. “We will request the Indian military if they could give us permission to do some limited excavation in the main cave to make a passage so that the cavers can pass that and see beyond that and come with maps of the caves and give it to archaeology department and the military if they need.”

Source: https://kashmirlife.net/american-exp...-myths-192317/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVFZ8BbWXyk

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Lolab valley:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0gX4RltR5M

On returning from Machil, we turned left to Lolab valley, just before Kupwara town.

For the past many years, the encounters between security forces and terrorists were the order of the day in Lolab, as the valley is a link to the areas along the LoC and used to be a transit area for terrorists. Today as the guns have gone silent, thanks to our Armed Forces, we can visit one more paradise on earth.

Lolab or 'Wadi-e-Lolab' is a beautiful valley located at the base of the Shamsbhari mountains. Lolab valley is not on the LoC and it's entrance is located east of Kupwara town. It is an oval-shaped valley about 24 kms. long with an average width of about 5 kms. The Valley is at an altitude of roughly 5,200 ft. above m.s.l. The valley is home to 9 numerous archaic springs and is covered with thick woodlands of pine and fir. Products like apple, cherry, peach, apricot, and walnuts grow in the area and hence the valley is also called "The fruit bowl of Kashmir". Lolab is also the home to Hangul (the state animal of Jammu & Kashmir), Leopard, Himalayan black bear, Himalayan brown bear, ibex, markhor, musk deer and different species of birds. The Hangul or Kashmir Stag is the proud Mascot of Kashmir. Today, it is an endangered animal and runs the risk of extinction.


Source: https://www.jagranjosh.com/general-k...s-1613141913-1

The Lolab valley is one of the most thickly forested sub valleys of Kashmir with dense undergrowth. It is not without reason that soldiers of the Indian Army, have christened Lolab as the ’Valley of Shadows’. (In the Valley Shadows by Abhay Narayan Sapru, ex Indian Army, Special Forces officer).

Legend has it that Lolab valley was once a lake, which formed part of a bigger lake, called Satisar or Satisaras, the waters of which covered the present Kashmir valley. Satisar was the ‘Lake of Sati’ (Durga or the consort of Lord Shiva). Early European travellers noticed that ‘Kashmir was in comparatively late geological times, wholly or in part occupied by a vast lake’.
Presently there are thirteen small lakes in Lolab with a shallow depth. Covered with weeds, they afford great shelter to the migratory water fowl which breeds here.

The Valley has a historical legend attached to it as far as tourism is concerned. The beauty of Lolab has been etched in history by the beautiful lines written by the famous Urdu poet Mohammand Iqbal in the poem “O Valley of Lolab”. In this poem, the poet has very aptly described all the spectacular landforms present in the valley and since then it has attracted tourists all over the world.

Sir Francis Younghusband, who visited Lolab in 1887 described the valley in his book 'Kashmir by Francis Younghusband' as follows:

The Lolab is the western end of the vale of Kashmir, and is remarkable rather for the homely picturesqueness of its woodland and village beauty than for the grandeur of its scenery.
The hill-sides are entirely clothed with thick forests of deodar and pine. In the valley bottom are beautiful stretches of soft green turf. Dotted over it are villages buried in park-like clumps of walnut, apple, and pear trees; and numerous streams ripple through on every side. For forest and village scenery it is nowhere excelled. It is like a series of English woodland glades, with the additional beauty of snowy peaks in the background.

Source: The Himayan Journal.
Article by: Brigadier Ashok Abbey.
Link: https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/70/...alayan-valley/

















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After leaving Lolab valley, we headed for Gurez, via the Wular lake. Enroute we stopped for lunch at Wular resort on the left bank.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/RGWNx1a6aZSe7TwG6
The resort is situated on top of a hill with fantastic views of Wular lake.







Wular Lake, also known as Wolar in Kashmiri, is the 2nd largest fresh water lake in Asia. The lake's size varies seasonally. In addition, much of the lake has been drained as a result of willow plantations being built on the shore in the 1950s. Fish from Wular Lake make up a significant part of the diet for many thousands of people living on its shores and elsewhere in the Kashmir Valley. More than eight thousand fishermen earn their livelihood from the lake, primarily fishing for the endemic Schizothorax species and the non-native carp. Their catch comprises about 60 percent of the total yield of fish in Kashmir.

This lake also has a small island in its centre called the ‘Zaina Lank’ built by King Zainul-Abi-Din in 1444.

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Razdan pass:

Heading out from Wular lake, we reached Bandipora and then towards Razdan pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jB_Y...?feature=share

The old Gazetteer of Kashmir records this pass as 'Tragbal or Rajdiangan pass'.
Rajdhan pass or Razdan pass as it is called now, seperates the Kashmir valley from Gurez valley, which lies on the LoC. The pass remains closed during winter months due to heavy snowfall. It was once an integral part of the Silk route between Kashmir and Central Asia.

When we crossed Razdan pass towards Gurez, we got dry weather and on the return we got fresh snowfall at Razdhan pass.


































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Peer Baba of Razdan pass:

Located approximately four kms short of Razdhan Pass on the way to Gurez Valley is the famous Shrine of Peer Baba.

It is believed that Peer Baba came from a place called Malsar (Pakistan) in 1933 and established himself in a cave at Durmat (POK) at an age ot approximately 35 years. His religion, caste etc were unknown and he did not have any food or water for months together. When he came to Kanzalwan, he asked for food from locals, who considered him a Saint. Peer Baba never refused anything offered by the locals and accepted them with love. Peer Baba was known to speak and hear less and was popularly known by the name of Nanga Baba. During the winter of 1940, amidst heavy snowfall in the month of February, Peer Baba Came to Razdhan, where he breathed his last. Locals tried to move his body to Bandipore.However, they were attacked by a swarm of bees and therefore, he was buried at his present location i.e. Razdhan by his disciple Mallick and locals. During the year 1950, the Army established a ‘Mazar’ of Peer Baba at its present location. It is believed that whoever visits Peer Baba and offers his prayers, is blessed and his wishes are granted.

All security forces during their move in and out religiously visit Peer Baba to offer their prayers. As a sign of respect, security forces and locals do not consume non vegetarian food and liquor on Tuesday and Friday as these are considered to be Peer Baba days. The money offered by the visitors to Peer Baba is utilized for the welfare of the locals and education of the children.The Amy maintains the Shrine with the help of a detachment who offer tea and prasad to the visitors.

Source: https://www.radiochinar.in/razdhan-peer-baba-shrine/

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Gurez & Tulail valley:

Gurez valley:
Gurez is the valley that you enter once you cross Razdan pass. Gurez is divided into three regions. The area from Toabat to Sharda Peeth is administered by Pakistan as Neelum District in PoK, that between Kamri and Minimarg is part of the Astore District, Northern Areas, Pakistan, and that from Toabat to Abdullae Tulail is known as Tehsil Gurez, and is part of Bandipora district of J&K.

The Gazetteer of Kashmir mentions Gurez as 'Gurais' situated at an approximate altitude of 7000 - 8200 feet. The Kishanganga River flows through the Gurez valley before merging into the Jhelum River near Muzaffarabad in Pakistan. The LoC lies slight north and not along the river here. The main town is in Dawar which is about 40 kms. from Razdan top. Here is where you will find many hotels and homestays.

We witnessed the valley in Autumn. The Valley, a hidden gem, beckons adventurers and nature enthusiasts with it's untouched beauty and awe-inspiring landscapes.

In 2022, Gurez Valley bagged the Gold Award 2022 for the best offbeat Tourist place in India during an award function organized by "Out Look Traveler's Magazine" in New Delhi.

You do not need a permit to visit Gurez Valley if you are an Indian citizen. You will, however, need to register yourself at several Army check posts between Srinagar and Dawar. You will be required to produce your Aadhar Card at all of them.

The winter season in Gurez area lasts from November to April, and the locals get isolated due to the closure of Razdan pass. Winters here are very harsh with about 10 to 20 feet of snowfall and temperatures dropping all the way to -35 degrees Celsius. Because of this, the locals stock groceries, firewood and other supplies during the summer. During the winters, the villagers spend most of their time indoors and engage themselves in singing, dancing, winter sports and weaving by the ladies.

Gurez valley is famous for the Gurez kala jeera (Black cumin) besides other medicinal plants. Black cumin is the heritage crop of Gurez and has high market value. Kala jeera is one of the most important spice crops in the world. According to a research article of 2021, a set of 252 diverse kala jeera germplasm accessions were collected during an exploration mission from hot-spot regions in the Himalayas spead across the LoC and LAC. Gurez kala jeera and Rajma (also produced here), were displayed at the G20 summit held in Srinagar in May 2023.


Habba Khatoon peak:
Gurez’s most daunting summit, Habba Khatoon, is named after the famous poet and Nightingale of Kashmir. The pyramid-shaped mountain lies to the east of Dawar approximately at 4000 m. above m.s.l. Habba Khatoon, or Zoonie, is said to have stolen the heart of Kashmiri king Yusuf Shah Chak (1580-86), eventually becoming his wife. While Yusuf Shah Chak was imprisoned by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, she roamed these parts yearning for him, and the area abounds with the legends of Habba and the king.

Read the full love story here: https://ekaxp.in/2023/03/13/the-lege...alley-kashmir/


The peak seen from Log Hut Cafe.

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Tulail valley:
The Tulail / Tilel Valley also known as ‘Little Ladakh’, is a sub-valley of Gurez. This valley was carved out of the Gurez Valley in the year 2014. Going east from Gurez town towards Drass, the first and the last villages of Tulail Valley are Burnai and Chakwali respectively. After crossing Burnai, the narrow valley opens up with clusters of traditional mud and log houses clinging to the hillsides on either side of the river, under the shadow of snow clad peaks. At one point after Gurjan, you need to take a small U turn towards the main road, or else you will end up on the dirt track going to the LoC. We finally reached Chakwali which is the last village on the Kashmir side, or the first Kashmir village if you are coming from the Dras side. The military track goes further 17 km. to reach Kaobal Gali, then runs just by the side of the LoC to reach Mushko Valley (famous for 1999 Kargil war) and then finally meets Srinagar – Leh highway at Drass. We were not allowed to drive ahead of Chakwali as the weather was bad and it had started snowing. A Maharashtrian soldier posted there speaks to us in Marathi and was very happy to see us.
The track is being converted in to a proper road to allow civilian traffic. This will be like a bypass for Zoji La, where one can directly reach Drass.



Route: Dawar – Burnai – Purana Tilel – Sheikhpora – Niru - Dukar – Badugam – Saradab - Buglinder - Hussaingam – Baruab – Gujran – Abdulan - Chakwali. This entire stretch till Chakwali is about 56 kms.


We were fortunate to witness the change from Autumn to Winter. It snowed in the night before and we woke up to a white morning. The snow did not last and melted away by afternoon.


View of the same place at Dudi, depicting the change in weather.








































































Inside Log Hut Cafe, Dawar.



At Log Hut Cafe, Dawar. The Log Hut Cafe is an idyllic spot in Dawar, inaugurated by the Indian army in 2021. The popular and scenic coffee shop overlooks the Habba Khatoon peak. It is dedicated to the locals and visitors of Gurez as a “model cafe” to promote tourism.