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Northern Italy (Chiavenna, Lake Como, Stelvio Pass, & Dolomites) | Austria (Innsbruck) | Germany (Munich & Füssen)

For me, ideal holidays are a mix of exploration, downtime, and of course a bit of driving. The family thoroughly enjoyed the German holidays last summer, and it was an easy decision to visit Europe again. The whole planning took around two months, worked out an itinerary that included a couple of places we wanted to revisit, some known tourist places, and some unknown territories.

At Singapore Changi Airport to catch our midnight/early morning flight to Munich:




Table of contents

1. Munich, Germany
2. Munich to Chiavenna, Italy – Driving through 5 different countries
3. Exploring Chiavenna, Italy
4. Bernina Express, Switzerland
5. Bellagio, Lake Como
6. Varenna, Lake Como
7. Another day in Bellagio
8. Lake Como to Dolomites, via Stelvio Pass
9. Seceda, Dolomites
10. Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
11. Lago di Braies, Dolomites
12. Sassolungo, Dolomites
13. Innsbruck, Austria
14. Füssen, Germany
15. Back to Munich

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Days 1, 2, & 3: Munich, Germany

Touched down in Munich early afternoon on the same day, passport check and baggage clearance were smooth, we took the S-Bahn (suburban train) from the airport, and in around 40 mins we were at our hotel. Spent the next couple of days relaxing in Munich, walking through the alleys, absorbing the local vibes and of course, some good food.

We stayed in Munich for a few days in the last summer holiday and absolutely loved it. And that was one reason to keep Munich as the entry/exit point for this holiday. And the other reason was related to car rentals (more on that in the next post).

Munich has the right mix of modernity and culture. You will be walking on a busy city street, and a short detour can take you to some silent green space, devoid of the hustle and bustle of the city.

Stepped out for a lazy evening stroll...




The Isar river flows literally next to the hotel












Back to city streets










And soon at the famed Marienplatz - Munich's most popular square




The Hackerbrücke - a nice evening hangout place to catch the sunset




The tiredness of 16 hours long flight was kicking in, had an early dinner and called it a day.

Woke up late next day, went for leisurely breakfast at the hotel, and then stepped out for lunch and some shopping for the next two weeks.

From the hotel room...




Lunch at a quaint pizzeria







Marienplatz from the window - from the 4th floor café in Galleria, a department store in the old square.




A couple of more city shots






Woke up early next day, and went on short walk in the neighbourhood








A well-kept Lada




An untouched Alfa Romeo




BMW test mules - the second one looked like the 5. Not sure of the one in front, maybe a new X2?




Got back to the hotel, and lunch time, took the train back to the airport. It was time to pick up the rental car. I had opted for the SIXT diamond lounge pickup, and so the formalities were easy. Literally no waiting time and cars are parked in the priority lots behind the building. Since the trip involved driving to Italy I did not want a big car and had opted for BMW 2-series/Audi A3 class. But when I mentioned that I have 3 suitcases and a couple of small bags, the staff at the counter suggested to look at a slightly bigger option. The choices got narrowed down to BMW X1/Audi Q3 or 3-series/A4. I personally love sedans but the girls suggested on getting a SUV/crossover this time, and since it was Mercedes and BMW in my last two trips to Germany, thought I will go with Audi this time. Selected an Audi Q3 Sportback S Line 35TDI, and soon we were at the parking bay. The car was relatively new, with only around 18,000 kms done.








After picking the car, we decided to drive to Ingolstadt, Audi's hometown. The reason to go there was different though - the girls wanted to checkout the outlet shopping at Ingolstadt Village.






A few hours later, with a substantially lighter wallet, started the drive back to Munich. And as if reflecting my state of mind, it started raining heavily and took almost an hour extra to get back to Munich. On the plus side, the 100 km+ drive helped to get familiarized with the Q3, its behavior in the city as well as on the Autobahn (and even in rainy conditions and chock-a-block traffic).

Got some Turkish Doner Kebab takeaway for dinner and called it a day. Its the road-trip from next day...

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Day 4: Munich to Chiavenna, Italy – Driving through 5 different countries

After the test run to Ingolstadt the previous afternoon, it was now time for the road trip.

The Q3 all set for the cross-country run…




Started from Munich at around 9:30 am, and an hour and a half later, we were at the rest station at Hörbranz, on the German – Austrian border around Bodensee (Lake Konstanz). Filled up the tank, and bought the necessary highway vignette stickers for Austria and Switzerland. Austria vignette costed EUR 9 for 10 days and since our trip was for two weeks, had to get two those, with the second one’s activation date set from the 10th day onwards. The Swiss Vignette was expensive at EUR 42, and with a validity for the whole of 2023.




Continued with the journey and soon we were driving through Switzerland (border crossing is such a seamless experience in Europe). Driving parallel to Rhine river, and the border with Liechtenstein running literally on the river, we decided on a small detour – crossed the bridge and we were in Liechtenstein. Drove up to the Vaduz Castle only to discover that the castle was on renovation works.

Parked outside Vaduz Castle




The castle - all wrapped up!




A vineyard at the foothills




Nevertheless, another country in the visited list, and we were back on Swiss roads. Highway traffic was slow at parts, and around 2 hours later the fun part started – we got on to the Splügen pass; little we knew that twisty high altitude passes are going to be a part of our life for the next 10 days

At the Splügen pass












Continued with the climb and stopped at Berghaus Splügenpass for a quick bite and coffee. Nice place to stop and stretch, and the views were wonderful.










The sun was blazing down and hence we moved indoors...






Even the washroom had a view!




Trying a click from the other side of the road










After a nice break of 30-45 mins and some good chat with the lovely ladies who run the place, we continued with the climb, and soon reached the Swiss-Italian border at the top of the pass.










Once into Italian side, its downhill run, all the way to Lake Montespluga

On the lake side








And by 6pm, we got to Torre Scilano, our Airbnb farm stay for the next two nights, located just on the outskirts of the small Italian town called Chiavenna.

The settings were beautiful and the house was super quirky, with each room placed on different floors, and the bathroom in the basement.




After the long drive of 400 kms that covered 5 countries, and some nice challenging roads, a good rest was all what we needed. For dinner, found this beautiful restaurant called Crotto Quartino, which served some exquisite local cuisine from the region.

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Day 5: Around Chiavenna

Leisurely started the morning, and the couch by the window was perfect for the morning coffee…




The views all around were awesome with mountains, greenery, streams, and waterfalls.


















Later in the morning took the car out to explore the small town center of Chiavenna. Being a Sunday many shops were closed.




Found a nice little café for some coffee and pastries.






Some more walking around
















Got to the river that run right through the middle of the town. And saw this café with a nice balcony. So time for another coffee, and some more food.







While at the café I was looking at options for the afternoon, and saw that St. Moritz (Switzerland) is not too far – around an hour’s drive. During my travel research, had read about Bernina Express train that runs from St. Moritz to Tirano (in Italy). It was almost around 11:30 am, and saw that there is a train that departs St. Moritz at 1:15 pm. But Bernina express being a scenic train ride, required prior reservation. Nevertheless, thought of giving it a shot and if the train was not possible, we can still spend some around St. Moritz in the afternoon.

Chiavenna is quite close to the Swiss border, and within 10-15 mins we crossed into Switzerland. The drive to St, Moritz was quite interesting with nice winding roads, the Maloja Pass especially was quite interesting to drive.

On the way to St. Moritz









Around 1:05 pm we got to the train station in St. Moritz.

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Day 5 (cont’d): Bernina Express, Switzerland

Parked the car at the train station and spent a couple of minutes trying to figure out how to pay for the parking. Couldn't understand much as the instructions were in German. Aborted the attempt and went to the ticketing office to enquire. They said that the Bernina express is about to depart in 5 mins, and most probably we won't make it, but maybe just go to the platform and see if we can locate the officer there. S/he maybe able to help with a ticket onboard. Rushed to the platform and approached the first spotted officer. He was extremely helpful and showed us a coach to board. And later he came to us and helped with the tickets and reservations. He got us a round trip ticket with onward journey in the panoramic coach of Bernina express, and the return from Tirano can be in the regular train that runs in the same route (only difference is it doesn't have the panoramic dome coach, and does couple of additional stops). The ticket for 3 costed us CHF 225 (SGD 360 / INR 21,500). Though expensive, I felt it was totally worth it.

I mentioned to him about the parking situation and suddenly his face went gloomy with all sympathy for us. He said most probably there will be a fine that could range from CHF 40 to 100. Anyway, decided to set aside that disappointment for the next few hours and enjoy the train ride.




The train made a 10 minutes photo stop at Alp Grum station.








Continued with the journey. The views got better and better but clicking photos was not easy with strong afternoon sun glaring through the glass dome












A complimentary drink and a box of chocolate




Before getting to the Italian side, the train goes through the popular spiral arch bridge /viaduct at Brusio. Could see a lot hikers waiting below to take a picture of the train passing through the bridge








After the train ride of 2 hours+, we got to Tirano and we boarded back a regular train to St. Moritz. At some parts, the train track run through the middle of the road and it was quite fascinating to see cars running alongside.






A few more pictures on the way back
























Back at St. Moritz station, asked in the ticketing office about the car parking situation, and they asked to me to go and check in the parking lot of it there is a ticket/fine slip attached to the windshield. There was nothing and I went back to ticketing office to inform that. He laughed and said “that means no fine, you are a lucky man”

Got back to Chiavenna by around 8pm. Stopped by a pizzeria suggested by our host and again, the food was just awesome.






The Q3 at the parking lot in Chiavenna – clicked at 9:00pm!

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Day 6: Chiavenna to Bellagio, Lake Como

Third day in Chiavenna and it was time to check out of the Airbnb and start to the next destination. Our stop for next 3 days – Bellagio, Lake Como was just an hour and a half away, and we had some time to spend in the morning. Decided to walk to the waterfalls we can see from the farm; google map showed around 1 km of walk.

To the waterfalls




Soon it started drizzling, and with a temperature around 12C, thought it is better to track back.





Packed our stuff, and when the rain slightly reduced, we moved the bags to the car, and later left the place by around 9:00am




The rain started playing up again, and since our host in Bellagio was expecting us only around 3pm, we had some time kill. Drove to the waterfalls which we planned to walkdown earlier. It was just a short walk from the parking lot.

Acquafraggia waterfalls




By the time we returned from the waterfalls, the café next to the parking lot was open. Spent around 30 minutes there, looking at possible stops on the way.




Since the forecast was of heavy rains until afternoon, we decided to get back to the car and proceed to Bellagio.




Coffee break on the way




Never had a bad coffee in Italy




Not sure why there is a chair in the toilet...




Lake Como is shaped like an upside-down Y, and to get to Bellagio from Chiavenna was pretty easy with a short drive to Varenna and take the ferry to Bellagio (on the left, in the map below). Since we had time until early afternoon we decided to drive around the lake and take the ferry from Menaggio (map on the right).




It was an interesting drive in the rains, and the whole stretch was dotted with tunnel after tunnel that pierce through the mountains.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdlBn8wadwY

Another spooky tunnel




The lake on the right side






A late lunch stop at Laglio, a small town before Menaggio




I was in constant touch with our host and she messaged that if driving from Laglio, there is another ferry terminal before Menaggio (at Cadenabbia) and that will be less crowded and faster to get to Bellagio. Soon we queued up for the ferry in Cadenabbia and 10 minutes later we (and the car) were on the ferry to Bellagio.






The town of Menaggio from a distance




Approaching Bellagio




Our host Roberta and her friend Gabriel were waiting at the port, with umbrellas. They were so friendly and helpful; showed us a spot to park the car to unload the luggage and Gabriel helped to bring up all the luggage to the apartment. And Roberta was so gracious that she had marked a free parking spot for me.

Q3's home for the next three days

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Day 6 (cont'd): Bellagio, Lake Como

Bellagio probably is the most popular destination on Lake Como, and I can see why. Located right in the middle of the lake, dotted with cobblestoned stairway streets, boutique shops, cafés and eateries. During the day the place is filled with tourists, but still has the charm of a small Italian town.

Our apartment (rightly called The Stairway) was located right at the start of Salita Serbelloni, one of the most photographed passageway/steps in Bellagio.

View from the apartment






A nice gelato shop, right on the ground floor




Sit on the balcony and be a part of the crowd




The waterfront a few steps away






There was slight drizzle, but we ignored that and stepped out to do a short walkaround














Someone was trying to do a Jeremy Clarkson with a UK registered Aston Martin.






Stopped for dinner at one of the restaurant suggested by our host. The food again, was just wonderful.




After dinner, walked around the waterfront for a while














By around 9:00pm we got back to apartment…

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Day 7: Bellagio in the morning...

Early morning is the best time to walk around and explore some of the popular tourist destinations. That’s when you see the locals taking their dogs out for a walk, the restaurants getting prepared for the day, and experience the calmness all around






Spotted a café (Rossi) that opened early in the morning, and that was our café of choice for the next three days – for breakfast, and coffee shots in between.






Continued with the walk...












Soon we reached at the edge of the inverted Y I mentioned in the previous post














Walking back…




Spotted a Stelvio






A family out on a walk






Sun rising over the stairways…

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Day 7 (cont'd): Varenna, Lake Como

After breakfast, stepped out to visit the neighbouring town on Varenna, just a short ferry ride away.

Waiting for the ferry




On board...






Menaggio on the other side






Closing in to Varenna








Started walking through the panoramic walkway by the waterside














The streets and stairways in Varenna got a different vibe to it (compared to Bellagio)






Some more gelato on the way




San Giorgio church




Walking back






Bye to Varenna




A short stop at Menaggio




Back in Bellagio




Spent rest of the day doing some window shopping, dinner etc.

Sun trying to show up one last time before sunset…

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Day 8: Lazy day in Bellagio

Spent the day almost doing nothing – a bit of walking around, gelatos, lunch, shopping etc. In the evening booked for an hour of private boat tour on the lake. Expensive, but great experience, especially with our boat skipper Gianni

In the morning








Lunch at the next door restaurant La Lanterna






At the town center








Boat tour in the late evening








Dinner at Pizzeria La Grotta, another great restaurant suggested by our host Roberta




Nightfall – Basilica of St. Giacomo

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Day 9: Leaving Lake Como

Last morning in Bellagio






On a walk after the morning coffee












Left the apartment after breakfast, with keys and 3 days' city tax (in cash) left on the table




It was time to wake up the Audi, and start the next leg of our journey. Paid for the ferry to Varenna, and queued up.




Bellagio, bye for now...






Only two cars to cross the lake






Back on the road, we made steady progress towards Bormio, the start of Stelvio Pass climb...

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Day 9: To the Italian Alps (Dolomites), via Stelvio Pass!

Google maps show 2-3 different routes to go from Lake Como to Dolomites, and I chose the longest option as that was the only one that goes through the Stelvio Pass, which is considered as one of the best driving roads in Europe. I had a slight doubt that the Q3 Sportback may not be the ideal car to try this loop, but nevertheless decided to go on. After all, this was a family trip, and pushing to the limits was not in the agenda.

After a couple of hours' drive, we were on the SS38 in Bormio, and started the Stelvio climb






This guy held us for about 10 minutes




Arrows pointing both directions – noticed this only on Italian roads!




Bikers zooming past. Note the protective nets to catch the falling rocks






A tunnel with one-way traffic

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SADyRnvnRAQ

A lot of cyclists as well...




And the views started getting better and better. Every other turn was like a photo opportunity
















On the top – pretty crowded with bikers, cyclists, and hikers




Started the descent






Other photo stop!




Our planned stop for a late lunch – seen far away in the middle








At Franzenshöhe Berghotel






Lunch with a view!




After lunch continued down, and for a brief stint, we got on Autostrada A22, after another hour of twisty roads, the signboard of our base for next 3 days showed up








Reached the hotel at around 8:00pm




Dinner from a nearby restaurant, Tabladel






That was such a rewarding day of driving. Stelvio pass was a bucket list item, and even with the family-friendly Q3 Sportback, it was so much of fun attempting the pass.

Next 3 days will be tackling another bucket list location!

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Day 10: First morning in the Dolomites – visiting Seceda

The mighty Dolomites was in my radar for the past couple of years. And this region in the Italian Alps is not something that can be done in a day or two. Ideally one should keep aside at least a full week to spend in the region, but considering the limited time availability, I made the plan for 3 nights, with only 3-4 key places to cover (and set aside some as a reason to return on another time). Driving in the region is extremely challenging as well(more for the passengers), with winding mountain roads.

I chose to stay in the small town of Colfosco in the Alta Badia region. It was centrally located, and within reasonable distance to the locations I wanted visit in Dolomites. Another fun-fact about the region is that almost signboards have the place name listed in three languages – Italian, Ladin (the native language of parts of Northern Italy/South Tyrol region), German due to its history of being a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. So Colfosco (Italian) is Calfosch in Ladin, and Kolfuschg in German.

Enough of history lessons, and now its time to visit Seceda, located in Val Gardena, above the town of Ortisei.

Morning view from our hotel






Stepped out to get a feel of the place – extremely cold summer mornings!




Back for breakfast




Ready to start the drive to Ortisei




The cable car from Ortisei to Seceda goes in two stages. In the first stage it’s a small gondola that can take around 6-8 people, and for the second stage to the summit it is a big box that can take around 40 people.

The large cable car to the summit




Step out of the cable car and we were greeted with this wonderful view!




We started walking up the slope (the station where we got of the cable car is seen behind)










Time to reflect




And reflecting together




A drone disrupted the thoughts...




I decided to get a bit more adventurous








Closer to the Seceda ridgeline – with clouds already touching the ridgeline



Walking towards the ridgeline








Literally walking in the clouds




Paragliders entering the clouds






In a matter of less than 10 minutes, the ridgeline got fully covered by clouds, it was just surreal

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Day 10 (cont'd): Seceda

Walking back from the ridgeline




Another photo stop








Continued walking back












Back at the base for some lunch. The overall distance covered in this walk/hike was around 2.75 kms.




Walking back to the carpark; the small gondola that goes to the halfway mark of Seceda can be seen above




Face-to-face with a speeding scooter – on the way back to Colfosco




Got back to our hotel by early evening. A classic Fiat parked next door




On an evening stroll outside the hotel










Went to a nearby pizza place recommended by our hotel receptionist, but there was like 30 minutes waiting time. Decided to do takeaway...




After dinner on the roadside, the girls went back to the hotel. I decided to check out an event at the church next door. There was this annual event of lighting up a trekking route (subjected to weather conditions), along with a band playing at the church square. Stayed with the crowd for around an hour, and then they announced that the event was cancelled due to fog/bad weather. Still a great experience to mingle with the locals and be a part of that crowd

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Day 11: Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (3 peaks of Lavaredo) is one of the iconic places in Dolomites and a wallpaper I saw on Chromecast was the reason that made me look up about this region. Like the previous day, the plan was pretty relaxed – after breakfast, drive up to Rifugio Auronzo (the parking base for Tre Cime di Lavaredo), spend some time hiking, and plan on the next steps, depending on the energy levels.

View from the hotel balcony at around 7:00am




And it changed in 5 mins or so (before I finished my coffee)




Started the drive, and in an hour we were at Cortina d'Ampezzo – a base town for those who look to spend time at Tre Cime




At Rifugio Auronzo carpark – there is a EUR 30 entrance fees, collected at the base toll booth








Before starting the hike – sunscreen lessons for dad




Signboard to the first rifugio/hut




Started with the hike...








Did a 10 minutes stop at the hut




Continued with the hike










Rock reflections




Far behind – the rifugio where we stopped for a break




The mighty Tre Cime di Lavaredo – with clouds covering the top






Trying a jump




Another hut way below – wanted to hike there, but thought it will be a bit too much for our tall little girl




Started the walk back






A small detour to check another view






Standing in front of these mighty mountains, all that I felt was gratitude – to be able to travel all the way and experience these majestic views




Way below – the town which we drove through




Now its almost like dragging back




Mission accomplished! That was a wonderful hike of around 6.5 kms round trip...