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Old 10th July 2023, 12:34   #1
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Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

To watch, to hear, to experience, to understand, to imbibe, to find those spots where your heart wishes you to be, to feel the joy inside, to say to yourself "This is it". Journeys are not just passages from Point A to Point B or simply saying "I saw X or Y or I was at Z." Rather, journeys are those moments you travel within yourself, maybe finding out more about yourself.

Roads would be my pick at any time, for I love to be behind the wheels, especially in rain, and the more the merrier once the border is crossed to Tamil Nadu which has more open horizon/ fewer unmindful concrete structures, and wide roads without congestion.

Rails—as with most of us, railways remain an enigma to me. I don’t fancy traveling by train, yet I love to follow the rails – the paths taken by the trains as they carry thousands of people along with the myriad stories and the varied landscapes they pass through. Given a chance, I won’t travel by train, and yet, there’s something alluring about the locos since the day we grew up reading the erstwhile Imperial legacies through Malgudi Days or the writings of Ruskin Bond/ Mark Twain.

Often, words fail to express the feelings of such impulsive journeys, often ignited by the grey sky across the Western Ghats into Tamil Nadu. The cool breeze, the occasional day breaks for sunrise in the sky throwing up multitude of golden hour colors just to disappears behind the clouds again, the intense sunsets the moist & wide Highways, the steaming cardamom-tea & Ghee Roast combo by the Highway restaurants watching the rain, the deviations to the drenched villages that still remains like pictures from the 70s/80s, the narrow paths leading to the forests, the green fields & vegetation, the ‘whys & hows’ of the people around, the faces we come across and the occasional peek into their life some allow, the rails through the mountains and plain lands, the lone traveler in the station, the chugging of unseen diesel locos through the mountain passes, trains in rain..

I hope the pictures will express themselves along with the notes.

On an early morning drive to Thirunelveli, the clouds break up for the golden hour near Nagercoil. It was drizzling from Trivandrum all the way upto the Nagercoil, when suddenly, the sky broke up for some time to let the raising sun cast shadows and colors. Just love those short breaks which is often followed by the change in sky/ weather to bring in more rains to accompany the drives.

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Won't ever miss the breakfast setting at SAV near Kavalkinar in NH 44. It's an experience, to sit by the open varendah table and enjoy the steaming tea & ghee-roast combo as it rains.

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Morning 'gold' from Gangaikondan near Madurai along NH 44.

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Atop the Rettiarpatti Gap in NH 44 at Thirunelveli, offering miles of aerial view to the beautiful road stretch

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The ever refreshing rain drops and the favorite mile-marker. For some reason, this point is always a halting point for few minutes during the drives.

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The sunsets at Thirunelveli - Madurai (NH 44) and Madurai - Trichy ( NH 38)
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Same place, different machines, one feel - bliss. Years have passed along with machines having different driving characteristics and yet, the desire to feel the wind and drizzle at Mekkarai remains the same.

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Catching up with the 'tribe' along the descend in the Aryankavu Pass to Shenkottai

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The 'Other one'

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Persons such as Duraisami & Muniyamma carry the unending reserves of stories inside them through the decades and seasons. Under the overcast sky, it's a treat to listen as they tell the lore's of the area.

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Kadayanallur - Long after the harvest and festivals, the rays from the setting summer sun scattered by the mountain ranges impart a dusty feel to a once lush and moist field. As we looked onto the sunrays tilting & shifting by the moment, we could hear her footsteps getting close behind us. She paused and asked us what we were trying to click in the emptiness of the space. Our intention was not to click but to experience the place enriched by myriads of sounds from the mountain wind, rustling leaves, bells from the temple nearby, the birds, and the distant sound of animals.

No matter what the season is, be it summer or monsoon, the place is always a green haven, that stands as a testament to the will of the people who used every resource at their disposal to cultivate. With the summer cultivation in full swing, the ‘emptiness’ she had mentioned is gradually being turned into emerald space, and the path she is treading now would once again turn green...

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The drives through NH 744 from Thenmalai is often marked by parallel runs to the erstwhile Punalur - Shenkottai rail line. Inaugurated around 1904, the meter-gauge line was in service till 2010 before being converted and reopened as broad-gauge in 2018. The legacies still remain despite the modernity creeping in slowly as the line is being electrified too now.

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The Shenkottai - Thirunelveli rail-line is probably one of the most beautiful rail lines in India now, right up there with the Konkan line though with different characteristics. Bordered by the might Western Ghats and endless greeneries, the line holds a treasure-trove of sights & sounds, lives & colors to be experienced. Seen here is the WDG - 3A rolling down the Aryankavu pass to enter Tamil Nadu section

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An inexplicable nothingness, or the name alone, seems to bond a quaint little railway station to the floating cumulus clouds above. A speaker pointed to infinity and wakes up the sleepy village three times a day for the arrival of trains, only to crawl back to a silence filled with the incessant wind and chirps of birds. Fences from the past reveal the rain clouds looming over the nearby mountains as the wind carries them closer to us.

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Tale of two seasons and one place. The water-management needs to be appreciated as there is paddy cultivation even in summer.

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Bhagavathipuram Railway Station - the first Station in Tamilnadu side, used to be lined by trees before they were cut down for electrification recently. yet, there remains something enigmatic about the place, especially in rain. A station where often trains halt to let off passengers than take in and, like a contrast, the view to the other side of the station is a treat, a hidden gem.

Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu-img_9309.jpg
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Old 14th July 2023, 10:53   #2
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Beautifully written and very nice pictures. Following the off beat countryside roads and rails have an undeniable charm about it. Lot of it is getting lost now with the construction of large highways and expressways which makes us zoom over these quaint sites and experiences.
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Old 14th July 2023, 11:41   #3
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Wonderful wonderful thread and beautiful pictures. Thank you for sharing. If you don't mind, can you put across the route you took - I have been meaning to do a trip down south of TN for quite a while. This would be a good reference thread to pick places/routes as feasible.

Last edited by ninjatalli : 14th July 2023 at 11:49.
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Old 14th July 2023, 13:57   #4
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Awesome pictures telling the story with great narrative. Lovely scenes and wonderful photos of Duraisami and Muniyamma Enjoyed reading it.

Swami
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Old 14th July 2023, 16:27   #5
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticeyes View Post
A speaker pointed to infinity and wakes up the sleepy village three times a day for the arrival of trains, only to crawl back to a silence filled with the incessant wind and chirps of birds. Fences from the past reveal the rain clouds looming over the nearby mountains as the wind carries them closer to us.

Tale of two seasons and one place. The water-management needs to be appreciated as there is paddy cultivation even in summer.
A station where often trains halt to let off passengers than take in and, like a contrast, the view to the other side of the station is a treat, a hidden gem.
This is so rare.. to enjoy reading a thread with great writing and equally great shots. Superb.

As a person from Tamil Nadu, my POV has always been Kerala is scenic and when someone from Kerala appreciates the beauty on the other side.. it feels so good.

And we are so used to highway rides, 4 lane, 8 lane and what not. I think your post has opened the mind to explore the pretty side for real indulgence and beauty it holds.

Really appreciate the nuances you'd captured.. like paddy in summer. To my plain eyes, I would've have not processed it beyond some green field. I think this is going to add a dimension to observe more keenly on my next drive

Rated this thread five star even before reaching the end.
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Old 14th July 2023, 20:21   #6
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Breathtaking pictures! I was just in awe of the monsoon clicks. Feel really proud of our country. So many beautiful places in every state, I wonder why people venture to foreign lands!
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Old 14th July 2023, 21:19   #7
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

What a STUNNING thread ! Just the ones I love to read and travel. I have been on the lookout for such off-beat, peaceful places where you can have a lot of personal space.

Great pictures too - thank you for sharing.
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Old 15th July 2023, 20:29   #8
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Thanks for this amazing collection of places/photos!
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Old 16th July 2023, 15:37   #9
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

In the sea of "Been there, done that, seen all" content all around the connected world, this thread is a breath of fresh air. Exceptional pictures, amazing narrative and a very subtle hint about the sweet, memorable things that we are surrounded with that we more often fail to notice, all in the guise of a "Pace of life is too rapid, our schedules are jam packed, lots to check off the To-do list etc.".

Expressions of Duraisami & Muniyamma truly capture the essence of travelling. I have always felt that we have always been a species that has travelled to explore, to experience and to expand not just our geographies but our thoughts, our emotions and enhance our ability to connect with the different intangible elements that we are wrapped around with.

I would like to sum it up in two words - THANK YOU!!
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Old 17th July 2023, 15:12   #10
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Oh, can we please have more of these travelogues? No crowded mainstream places, no unwanted personal details, no bravado. Only simple, beautiful, straight from the heart account and a great style of writing. God bless.

It happens to be one of my favourite stretches too. The Shencottah-Thenmala stretch is absolutely beautiful during the rains. Southern TN with it's wonderful landscapes, simple, affectionate people and the diversity of terrain ( from hills to rivers to deserts to beaches ) is a traveler's delight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticeyes View Post
Tamil Nadu which has more open horizon/ fewer unmindful concrete structures, and wide roads without congestion.
And fabulous food of course. I'm one of those that orders 2 idlis and consumes a bucketful of Sambar and they now no longer place the bucket in front of me, they just serve and take it away.

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Won't ever miss the breakfast setting at SAV near Kavalkinar in NH 44. It's an experience, to sit by the open varendah table and enjoy the steaming tea & ghee-roast combo as it rains.
Wasn't aware of this place SAV, adding to my list. Also my favourite place in these stretches used to be the Ottai Panai Tea shop (https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ot...77.4453212,13z), not far from the SAV place you point out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticeyes View Post
Persons such as Duraisami & Muniyamma carry the unending reserves of stories inside them through the decades and seasons. Under the overcast sky, it's a treat to listen as they tell the lore's of the area.
No trip is complete without meeting new people and listening to them

You made my day!
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Old 17th July 2023, 22:00   #11
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Thank you for the post, this has brought back my own memories of travelling in trains back home from college for vacations. Those tiny little and empty railway stations, surrounded by fields and especially the smell of that soil after a slight drizzle. Our villages are truly a sight to behold during monsoons. Cant help but shed a tear for the nostalgia of those good old days!
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Old 13th August 2023, 02:38   #12
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

A very interesting and relevant blog indeed for someone planning offbeat trip to this area. The details shared should surely help some of us in planning a similar trip. Brilliant pictures and thank you for taking the time to share about this trip with all of us.
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Old 13th August 2023, 08:11   #13
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Re: Offbeat Wanderings - Following the roads & rails along Southern Tamil Nadu

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticeyes View Post

An inexplicable nothingness, or the name alone, seems to bond a quaint little railway station to the floating cumulus clouds above.

Bhagavathipuram Railway Station - the first Station in Tamilnadu side
Those are excellent photos!

I have read Ravanasamudram village was named after one Ravanappa Naicker who was a minister in some Nayak dynasty and supposedly founded the village. The railway station that came later was given the same name! Ironically the place is located on the bank of a small perennial river named Rama nadhi flowing down from the western ghats, a tributary of Tamraparani.

I have heard of Bhagavathipuram station but not seen it so far! In the late '80s a movie named "Bhagavathipuram railway gate" was released and the name has struck in my mind! The Shencottah - Punalur train journey is on my to do list.
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