To watch, to hear, to experience, to understand, to imbibe, to find those spots where your heart wishes you to be, to feel the joy inside, to say to yourself "This is it". Journeys are not just passages from Point A to Point B or simply saying "I saw X or Y or I was at Z." Rather, journeys are those moments you travel within yourself, maybe finding out more about yourself.
Roads would be my pick at any time, for I love to be behind the wheels, especially in rain, and the more the merrier once the border is crossed to Tamil Nadu which has more open horizon/ fewer unmindful concrete structures, and wide roads without congestion.
Rails—as with most of us, railways remain an enigma to me. I don’t fancy traveling by train, yet I love to follow the rails – the paths taken by the trains as they carry thousands of people along with the myriad stories and the varied landscapes they pass through. Given a chance, I won’t travel by train, and yet, there’s something alluring about the locos since the day we grew up reading the erstwhile Imperial legacies through Malgudi Days or the writings of Ruskin Bond/ Mark Twain.
Often, words fail to express the feelings of such impulsive journeys, often ignited by the grey sky across the Western Ghats into Tamil Nadu. The cool breeze, the occasional day breaks for sunrise in the sky throwing up multitude of golden hour colors just to disappears behind the clouds again, the intense sunsets the moist & wide Highways, the steaming cardamom-tea & Ghee Roast combo by the Highway restaurants watching the rain, the deviations to the drenched villages that still remains like pictures from the 70s/80s, the narrow paths leading to the forests, the green fields & vegetation, the ‘whys & hows’ of the people around, the faces we come across and the occasional peek into their life some allow, the rails through the mountains and plain lands, the lone traveler in the station, the chugging of unseen diesel locos through the mountain passes, trains in rain..
I hope the pictures will express themselves along with the notes.
On an early morning drive to Thirunelveli, the clouds break up for the golden hour near Nagercoil. It was drizzling from Trivandrum all the way upto the Nagercoil, when suddenly, the sky broke up for some time to let the raising sun cast shadows and colors. Just love those short breaks which is often followed by the change in sky/ weather to bring in more rains to accompany the drives.
Won't ever miss the breakfast setting at SAV near Kavalkinar in NH 44. It's an experience, to sit by the open varendah table and enjoy the steaming tea & ghee-roast combo as it rains.
Morning 'gold' from Gangaikondan near Madurai along NH 44.
Atop the Rettiarpatti Gap in NH 44 at Thirunelveli, offering miles of aerial view to the beautiful road stretch
The ever refreshing rain drops and the favorite mile-marker. For some reason, this point is always a halting point for few minutes during the drives.
The sunsets at Thirunelveli - Madurai (NH 44) and Madurai - Trichy ( NH 38)
Same place, different machines, one feel - bliss. Years have passed along with machines having different driving characteristics and yet, the desire to feel the wind and drizzle at Mekkarai remains the same.
Catching up with the 'tribe' along the descend in the Aryankavu Pass to Shenkottai
The 'Other one'
Persons such as Duraisami & Muniyamma carry the unending reserves of stories inside them through the decades and seasons. Under the overcast sky, it's a treat to listen as they tell the lore's of the area.
Kadayanallur - Long after the harvest and festivals, the rays from the setting summer sun scattered by the mountain ranges impart a dusty feel to a once lush and moist field. As we looked onto the sunrays tilting & shifting by the moment, we could hear her footsteps getting close behind us. She paused and asked us what we were trying to click in the emptiness of the space. Our intention was not to click but to experience the place enriched by myriads of sounds from the mountain wind, rustling leaves, bells from the temple nearby, the birds, and the distant sound of animals.
No matter what the season is, be it summer or monsoon, the place is always a green haven, that stands as a testament to the will of the people who used every resource at their disposal to cultivate. With the summer cultivation in full swing, the ‘emptiness’ she had mentioned is gradually being turned into emerald space, and the path she is treading now would once again turn green...
The drives through NH 744 from Thenmalai is often marked by parallel runs to the erstwhile Punalur - Shenkottai rail line. Inaugurated around 1904, the meter-gauge line was in service till 2010 before being converted and reopened as broad-gauge in 2018. The legacies still remain despite the modernity creeping in slowly as the line is being electrified too now.
The Shenkottai - Thirunelveli rail-line is probably one of the most beautiful rail lines in India now, right up there with the Konkan line though with different characteristics. Bordered by the might Western Ghats and endless greeneries, the line holds a treasure-trove of sights & sounds, lives & colors to be experienced. Seen here is the WDG - 3A rolling down the Aryankavu pass to enter Tamil Nadu section
An inexplicable nothingness, or the name alone, seems to bond a quaint little railway station to the floating cumulus clouds above. A speaker pointed to infinity and wakes up the sleepy village three times a day for the arrival of trains, only to crawl back to a silence filled with the incessant wind and chirps of birds. Fences from the past reveal the rain clouds looming over the nearby mountains as the wind carries them closer to us.
Tale of two seasons and one place. The water-management needs to be appreciated as there is paddy cultivation even in summer.
Bhagavathipuram Railway Station - the first Station in Tamilnadu side, used to be lined by trees before they were cut down for electrification recently. yet, there remains something enigmatic about the place, especially in rain. A station where often trains halt to let off passengers than take in and, like a contrast, the view to the other side of the station is a treat, a hidden gem.