[pyrodrive]

We have always been captivated by the enchanting beauty of Kashmir. As kids growing up in the 80s and early nineties, thanks to the magical portrayal of this region in old Bollywood movies, my imagination was ignited with visions of snow-capped mountains, lush valleys, serene lakes, and a cultural tapestry that left me in awe. The way those actors and actresses of yore danced and sang among the flowers with the mountains in the backdrop will perhaps always remain in our memories. Some of those actors are either no more now, or are quite old and Kashmir itself has slowly lost some of its beauty in the face of development and the once pristine meadows are now choc a bloc with buildings, hotels and lodges.

We did visit Kashmir before and in 2014 during a Ladakh drive, we stayed a night Sonamarg. The meadows although charming, had too many man made structures, in my view and I thought that in another 10 years the beauty may be fully gone.

But then, as they say, the real beauty of kashmir lies in the hidden valleys, away from the popular tourist destinations. A couple of years ago, I happened to see a picture in a travel group, of Gadsar lake in Kashmir, I was transfixed. I had seen only one lake in Kashmir, the Dal lake, of course. It is a part of the city scape of Shrinagar and although pretty, not really that spectacular or something. But this lake held me spellbound. The colour, the glacier in the background and most of all, the wildflowers leading to the water, was straignt out of a fairytale. A quick google check confirmed that this was accessible only by a "moderate to difficult" trek.

A picture to inspire a dream.

Some research was done and finally the plan began to form. My wife, Jinee was won over thanks to multiple pretty pictures downloaded from the internet
We did not ask any of our friends to join us, prefering to meet new people and make new friends. So it was just us as a couple.
Now only thing left was to prepare mentally and physically for what was going to be our first multi day high altitude trek.
We both were quite fit, but any trek needs some weeks of dedicated preparation. Two months before the scheduled dates we started long walks beginning with 5-6 kms and going on to 12-15kms on at least 3 days a week. The days when we could not manage time, we did a quick half an hour late night run. Jinee played badminton and had represented the state in the civil services tournaments the previous few years and so she also did some training with the team. Near the end of the period we upped the game a bit and walked all over the nearby hills and did some longer walks.
Mental preparedness is also paramount. We are so used to basic luxury that spending a week camping, without gadgets( no charging points anyway and power banks can only go so long), not bathing for a week, sleeping in a tent on hard uneven ground on a piece of foam all need mental preparedness. Most of all, using a hole in the ground for the morning business and using toilet paper instead of water needs the maximum mental adjustment for most of us. A trek teaches us how many of our seemingly indispensable things we can actually do without.

Regarding the trek organisers, we did not want to go with the more popular ones like trek the himalayas or indiahikes since their goup sizes wer too large. In hindsight this was a very good move. We had seen their chaotic campsites on the trek and would not want to be in one of them. Peace and quiet for me please! We went with a company called trekmunk and it turned out good.

Finally the day arrived, we took a flight to Delhi from Guwahati and arrived late evening, and then went for dinner to a close friend's place nearby and by the time we got back to our hotel it was 2am. After some inadequate sleep, we were back on a flight. This time headed to Shrinagar.
On reaching Shrinagar, we found out that most of the folks in the group had already left for Shitkadi (near Sonamarg) where the base camp was. But luckily met one trekmate, a navy submariner at the airport and three of us could share the fare of an innova arranged by our trek coordinator and reached Shitkadi by early evening.
The evening was spent on getting to know our trekmates, all of them were decent folks from different background and professions but with real enthusiasm for travel and trekking.

After an early dinner, we turned in for the night inside surprisingly cozy sleeping bags in the tent.

Here are some pictures of the base camp located at Shitkadi, just a few kms before Sonamarg. This was Day1.




Nearby area.


Day2-
Shitkadi to Nichnai table top hill.
Time taken-7.5 hours.

We woke up at 5.30, breakfast was ready by 6.20am, and after a bit of warm up and stretches, we were off on the trek!


The initial climb of the day was a few hundred feet but it took our breath away..literally! It was the altitude more than anything else that was tiring us easily. However the secret is to push on steadily using small steps. So push on we did and as we climbed higher, the more breathtaking the views became, we were climbing on rolling meadows now and could see the sleepy town of Sonamarg below us bathed in the morning sunrays.

Sonamarg in the distance.

The gradual climb over the meadows.


and some wildflowers dotting the grass.

There was an army checkpost here and after verifying our documents we were on our way to the first stop of the day..maggi point.


Wish there were such maggi points on each day of the trek! But no, such luxuries were afforded only on the first and the last days.

It was located on top of a hill and it took us 4 hrs to reach here. After a refreshing cup of kehwa ,apples and of course, maggi, we were on the way again. We left the valley with the sonamarg view behind and entered another new valley. We filled our water bottles with water from the numerous meltwater streams that were cascading down the rocks.




The last of the trees. After this point, the landscape changes and there are hardly any trees.




The next valley.


A lunch stop and a much needed rest.




Some goat traffic

Some way to go..



Walking on.

Finally we reached the day’s campsite, on the Nichnai table top hill. Nice location on flat ground with the stream nearby, but quite windy. Over tea and bread omlettes, we regained our energy and explored the place and was surprised that daylight stayed on till almost 7.30 when it was dinner time. At night the night sky was a sight to see, with the infinite stars and the twinkling milky way. But no fancy camera to catch it with.



A million star hotel, campsite on day2


Day3- Nichnai campsite to Vishnusar lake via Nichnai pass.

Distance approx 14 kms. Time 7-8 hrs.
Altitude 13000 ft.

In the KGL trek, you cross three mountain passes and today was one of the pass crossing days.
We woke up at 5 am to the sound of our guide Murad bhai clanging the kettle (with black tea)

Similar routine with breakfast of roti sabji, warm up and stretches and hit the trail by 7. The climb up to Nichnai can be arduous but the scenery on route makes up for it. With frequent breaks- to admire the view, we made it up the pass and into the next valley.



It now felt that we were really in the middle of nowhere.


The climb to Nichnai pass.






Views from the pass

After the descent from the pass, the terrain eased to the gentle meadows again with the gushing stream in between.



An artist's palette of colours, thanks to the shifting clouds.

We walked across these meadows and finally reached the day’s campsite near a stream which originates from the vishnusar lake which was just half a km away.


The campsites from a distance, by the stream which originates from the vishnusar lake.

After tea, most of us trudged on wearily to see the lake.


That is me standing by the lake.

The sky was overcast and so we missed out on the dazzling colours somewhat but felt fully refreshed by the sight of the calm waters and the emerald mosses and the sound of the tiny crystal clear streams pouring into the lake. After spending an hour or two here, we walked back to the camp.

There was an army camp nearby and just as we tucked into our sleeping bags at night, we heard two shots fired. But we had been told this was normal and so did not bother much. Only worry was that it had rained a bit during the day and dark clouds were gathering on the horizon. The next day was supposed to be the most difficult with Gadsar pass to cross and we had been told it might not be possible to cross the pass in case of further rains, because the trail becomes slippery and dangerous both for humans and the mules who carry the tents and equipment.

[pyrodrive]

Day4-
We woke up to a light drizzle and there was tension in the air as the pony and mule guys said it was too risky to cross Gadsar pass, and the trek guides from different groups were at a loss as to what can be done. If it wasn’t possible to go ahead, it would mean we use the buffer day there itself and/or even turn back without competing the trek. But kudos to our guide, Murad bhai, experienced guy that he was, he suddenly called out that the clouds are shifting and we start in 5 minutes! So off we went, and emboldened by our move, the other groups nearby also hurried to pack their tents n move out.

The first climb of the day was from the campsite across a rain sodden field and up the sides of Vishnusar lake and on towards Krishnasar lake.

After Krishnasar lake the trail became very steep and narrow. Now the actual climb to Gadsar pass had started.

The trail leading up to the pass

The trail was either loose or slippery and very steep, and the strong wind threatened at times. Without the trekking poles I am sure I would have fallen at least once.

Finally after a few hours of strenuous climbing we reached a point where both the lakes were visible. There was a slight drizzle and strong winds.



Finally we were at Gadsar pass.

The descent frm Gadsar was even more challenging..it was all muddy and slushy, and quite slippery again. Many of us had falls but thankfully no injuries. Surprisingly none of us took any picture of this section. All were busy trying not to slip and fall!

Finally the terrain eased up as we approached Gadsar lake.

This is one of the prettiest lakes here. There were an abundance of wildflowers, bumblebees, small lizards etc around it giving a magical feel. We had our lunch stop by the lake and enjoyed the serenity

Finally.


Gadsar lake, surrounded by wildflowers.

The difficult ascent and descent from gadsar pass, were forgotten after spending the best part of an hour at the lake, then it was time to move on. The trail here was very pretty with flowers everywhere and even the weather lifted.


Trail through paradise.


Wildflowers everywhere you look.

Slowly we walked through this beautiful valley for another three hours and finally we could spot the days camp at the distance..


The campsite in the valley ahead meant we could rest and take in the fleeting sunshine. How fast the weather changes up here!
As we got to the campsite, the sun disappeared and storm clouds had gathered again.


High winds, open valley and storm clouds sure gives a surreal feel.


Then there was a shower and then suddenly it cleared up and a rainbow appeared.


The valley with the campsites, if you look closely you can see the campsites of some of the popular trek organisers in the distance. Quite crowded, but thankfully far from our location.

Day 5 -

This was supposed to be one of the easier days but alas, constant rain all day made it the most difficult and miserable day for us.

The ponchos were out right from the start.


A perspective.


Fields of gold and green.

And then it started pouring. After 5-6 hours of walking through the rain,water finally started to enter our boots by way of soaked pants and socks, and fingers were numb with cold. With little "lakes" forming inside our boots, we couldn't even take pictures of the satsar lakes. After hours and hours we pulled into camp wet, cold and miserable.

Campsite.

Everything was wet, tents were pitched over wet ground, the foam “ mattress” was wet as well. The rain stopped at around 5 and all of us frantically tried to dry our gear in the wind..without much success, I should add.

Everybody trying to dry their things.

In the end we had to place our rain ponchos over the foam and place our sleeping bags on top of that to prevent those getting wet. That night we slept wearing our jackets, glad that the day was finally over.

Day6- The weather lifted and so did our spirits, enjoyed breakfast with a trekker’s appetite and after the routine warm ups and stretches, we started the day’s walk. Wet boots was the problem but nothing a little jugaad can’t solve.

we wore polythene packets over our socks to keep our feet relatively dry!

The day started with a difficult ascent over fields of boulders, some of the trekkers had a tough time navigating through these.




But the views at the top were rewarding..we could see trees again.


Then there was a long ascent up to Zaj pass, which took us 3-4 hours but the views from the top were out of this world.. The twin lakes of Gangbal and Nandkol were ahead shimmering in the sunlight with the rolling fields between them, mount Harmukh with its glacier in the background. What a stunning vista.



Sunny weather at last.


After some way down from the pass.

After a couple of hours, we were on the plains near the lakes. This time, the fields were dotted with pretty yellow flowers.


Finally we were at the gangbal lake itself. Dipping our feet in the ice cold water, we had our lunch.


Our campsite location wasn't far off from here.
The next and final lake was Nandkol, just a few kms away and the campsite was near that lake.


The glacier fed lake nandkol.

After pitching tent, five of us had a silly idea and we tried to climb the scree slope near the glacier to drink water from the glacial run off. No success, but filled our bottles
This was our final night on camping mode. A bittersweet moment.

[pyrodrive]

Day 7-
This was going to be a long day, as most of it was continous descent. The initial phase was easy, over gentle slopes.

Mt Harmukh with a plume of cloud.


The trees beckon.

The last day is where you lose most of the altitude, gained over the previous few days. From above the tree line we descended into the majestic firs, then the pines started few hundred feet lower.


A lone giant fir, standing tall among the yellow flowers, the first of its kind on our trail.


The yellow hue on the grass is due to the innumerable flowers.


Alpine scenery, as the trees get nearer.





Long sections of continous descent, some over rocky terrain which can be hard on the knees. Two of our guys were really struggling with knee pain already.



Some narrow and steep sections.


There was an Assam rifles army checkpost where the Id’s and bags were checked , and we were greeted in Assamese by the jawans, they even offered tea and snacks to us and one of the guys turned out to be from our hometown. Pleasant experience for us. Army guys really work hard for our safety. Kudos to them.


The final few hundred meters!
Finally we reached Naranang and set foot on paved roads after a full week. Mixed feelings, since we were at the end of such an amazing trek, happy that we could complete it without too much difficulty and also the thought of a hot bath and proper non veg food were equally appealing.

We reached Shrinagar at 5.30 and 6 of us checked into the same hotel, one more guy joined us in the evening and we had a grand party at the hotel lawns and some much needed indulgence on the gustatory aspects of life!

A parting shot of Shringar, pic credit : Saurav, an architect by profession and a veteran trekker and fun guy.

To sum up the trek-

It is one of the most beautiful treks in our country. Each day there is a new alpine lake to look forward to. The meadows, valleys and wildflowers are extraordinarily beautiful.

It is not an easy trek. Although not technically difficult, long distances are to be covered daily without a break for one full week, can leave one breathless after hours of continous uphill climbs at 13000+ feet. To prepare for the trek it is best to do long walks and also run/ jog at least 5-6 kms most days of the week, few weeks in advance.

Warm up and stretches, both at start and at the end of each days trekking is essential, to avoid cramps and muscle soreness.

We are lucky to have the himalayas right in our backyard. The possibilities are endless and trekking gives us the option to go off the beaten track, to go where wheels have never rolled, and finding peace and tranquility within ourselves.
As Sir Edmund Hillary famously said- "It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves"
Thanks for reading.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[Rajeevraj]

Nice travelogue and write up. Thanks for sharing. My wife did this trek last year with one of the trekking groups and loved it. As you have mentioned in the end, while it is a hard trek, it is technically not a very difficult trek requiring special skills, which means people who are interested in trekking can do it by putting in the necessary prework and effort.

Being out of any kind of network coverage for 5-6 days is a worry though

[Night_Fury]

This is amazing. The great lakes trek is on top of my bucket list. Thank you for the write-up; this is very helpful. I have shied away from the trek in the past because I wasn't physically ready. Planning to take it on this year, ideally.

[ashish2135]

Amazing thread! Thank you for sharing so many pictures of this piece of heaven on Earth. Somehow these pictures could make me feel the physical pain and struggle of getting there but the views must have made everything worth it.

Kashmir Great lakes has been on my bucket list for the past couple of years.
I had registered for the trek with Indiahikes in 2018 but as luck would have it the trek got cancelled due to some political issues in Kashmir at that time.

Since then I have kept on trying every year to make it to the trek but it has not been realised yet! Your thread is a push in the right direction.

[Yogi..Reeturaj]

What awesome pictures. Even a lazy bum like me can be excited enough to contemplate a trek��
Your trips are always interesting Hrishi and an awesome read as usual.
Keep travelling bro.

[vinya_jag]

Wow! Amazing pics. I guess I could never do that. I have been on night teaks with camping, for a day at max, and never enjoyed those windy sleepless nights. How can a multi night trek, that too at an altitude be covered?
The campsite with dark clouds gave me shivers just by reading.

Incredible photos though. Thanks for taking us through your journey

[Mustang Sammy]

Engrossing write up and beautiful pics. Who needs to leave India to travel when we have such amazing places in our own country.

God willing these places always stay inaccessible to vehicles (is that a wrong thing to say on this forum )

[YanTra Makto]

Wow, Lovely pics. Thanks for inspiring me to move up the Great Lakes Trek into my bucket List

[shankar.balan]

What a beautiful series of photographs of this experience!
Thank you for sharing!

[vijayols]

@pyro drive.Rated the blog 5 stars.The photos are simply stunning.Missed doing this with YHAI due to political issues and instead did the equally stunning Valley of Flowers then.

Want to do this soon and your write up inspires me to do this sooner than later.

Happy trekking in the future too.

[Jajabor]

Amazing writeup and pictures Hrishi during your prep for this trek I too joined you on some of the long walks know the preperation for such a trek well. I somehow presently not veing able to join a trek as some of the aweaome landscapes and terrains can be seen only by walking...

[haisaikat]

Trek of a lifetime, what an inspiring and awesome set of scenery to refresh the morning. I went several times over the photos cherishing them for the greater part of this morning. You have rightly given the hint of the mental hardship required to endure before undertaking such trips. But the end reward is definitely worth more than the effort as is evident from your photos. Kudos to you and your wife, the photos in this thread deserves nothing short of 5 star.