[Kashief]

When everyone booking tickets to watch Ponniyin Selvan: II, we were packing our bags for historical Cholas and Pandiyas temple trip between 29th April - 1st May. It was a long pending must watch place in our travel list and we finally made the trip.

As a regular habit, we usually start our trips by 6AM from home and pack our food for breakfast/lunch. We live in south part of Chennai and reaching Grand Southern Trunk Road is easy. There is a drastic change in traffic recent times. School vacation/long weekend, made things worse almost till Ulunthoorpettai. 7 out of 10 vehicles in the highway was cars and struggle to pass the multi-axle trucks and buses where they hardly maintain lane discipline. We stopped around 9AM for a quick breakfast and started again as the temple inner sanctum closing time was 12pm.

We reached Gangaikonda Cholapuram by 11:30AM and its very hot outside almost 40 degrees. One major issue visiting this historical monuments in summer time that too at noon is you can't set your foot in the ground more than 5 seconds. Pavers are carved out from rock and it was boiling. Either we have to walk quickly or run. We brought socks for the kid so managed it. There was reasonable number of tourists and we are the last person to watch deity before the authorities close the sanctum at 12pm.

Source: Google/Wikipedia - Not a historical person but like to see the historical monuments so referred these pages.

Gangaikonda Cholapuram is a village located in Ariyalur district, Tamil Nadu. It became the capital of the Chola dynasty in c. 1025 by Chola emperor Rajendra I, and served as the capital for around 250 years. It has been recognised as a World Heritage site by UNESCO. The translation of the city's name may be split into Gangai (Ganga) Konda (Obtained) Chola (Chola) Puram (City). It is now a small village, its past eminence only remembered by the existence of the Temple.

Visited the temple for an hour and mesmerized with the architectural design and construction which was made 1000 years back.

Beautiful Entrance





Ancient Well



Monument from different angles









Old Sculptures and Nandi







Parting Shot



Had our lunch under some tree shade inside temple compound and rested for sometime before we start to our next destination. Ariyalur to Thanjavur is 90 mins drive and road looks recently laid. Very minimal traffic, Curd Rice for lunch, Cruise control and Good suspension setup was singing lullaby to my ears and we reached Rams Inn by 4pm. This place is less than 4kms from the historical monumnent Thanjai Arulmigu Peruvudaiyar Temple otherwise called as Thanjai Periya Kovil (Thanjavur Big Temple). Parked the vehicle safely inside the hotel premise.

We took auto to the temple and reached around by 5:30pm. First thing you notice is the magnificent temple structure. It gave goose bumps when I saw fist time in person and you cannot miss the Gopuram (Temple tower) from anywhere near the surroundings. Previously had this kind of experience when we visited Eiffel Tower. But both are different in their way be it construction or age. One good thing is we don't need to worry about our foot like before as it is sunset time . There are lot of tourists from different parts of India/World to visit this Monumental beauty.

Peruvudaiyar Kovil built in a Chola architectural style located on the south bank of the Cauvery river in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu. Built by Chola emperor Rajaraja I between 1003 and 1010 CE, the temple is a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It took 45 mins in queue to visit the inner sanctum of the temple and had a good time seeing around sculptures of the heritage temple. By the time we reached the entrance after circling around, there was Sittirai Thiruvizha (Cultural Festival) programmes started. Spent an hour listening to live performance of Devaram and Thiruvasagam, later Bharatanatyam by Thanjavur Sinnamelam team. Had dinner in nearby restaurant and purchased Thanjavur thalayatti bommai (Doll) and went back to the hotel. I had a plan that if I can wake up early next day then I should visit the Temple alone once again in early morning so that I can avoid the crowd and take pictures.

Next day, got up early, refreshed and took the Civic to visit temple. Opening time is 6AM and I was there on-time but I believe temple opened some 15-20 mins before as I was able to see good amount of tourists/worshippers in the early morning hours. Spent more than an hour peacefully, captured some pictures and returned to hotel.

The Entrance with 2 layers











The BIG Temple and its Nandi carved out of single rock















Ancient pillars with Tamil Vatteluttu from 1000CE



Some irresponsible tourist left his signature



Architectural Beauty

[Kashief]

Parting Shot:





Rams Inn also have their own restaurant next to the stay and breakfast was complement. We had our breakfast and started to Keezhadi Museum and reached by 12pm. There was no designated parking place but found a place adjacent to the Museum compound to park the car.

This Museum was recently opened in the month of March by Tamil Nadu Government and it houses over 15,000 unique artefacts unearthed between the 4th and 8th phases of excavations by the Tamil Nadu State Department of Archaeology since 2018. The museum has the artefacts and crafts used by the urban civilization from the 6th century BC. The antiquities that provide the missing link between the iron age and the early historic period.

We spent 2 hours and watched the artefacts, after coming out we decided to see the excavation site which is 3 kms away from the museum. Village road was narrow and route to excavation site is through some farm so we took a auto to visit the place. The place was inside a Coconut Farm and the archaeologists have excavated up to 20-25 feet. They have left as it is for the tourists and rest of the sites are closed after excavation.

Underground well water rings and pots:





Weighing stones and coins









After reaching back to Museum, we hopped into the car and started to our stay JC Residency in Madurai. On they way, we stopped for lunch in a restaurant. Checked in into the hotel and rested for sometime. In the evening we planned to visit Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal, by the time we reached it was already closed and came to know about light show organized by the heritage building authorities. First show is in English and second one in Tamil. We bought tickets and went inside. The program is about telling the story of Thirumali Nayakar with colorful lights in action. Speakers were poorly calibrated and couldn't hear well and top of that mosquitoes were taking charge of our legs. As it was boring, we decided to spend remaining time in Madurai famous Mela masi streets. The city was gearing up for Kallalagar Festival and there was lot of crowd in the streets to witness the Deity in Chariot. Had Madurai famous Jigarthanda/Karidosai and returned to hotel.

Last leg of the trip was to visit Meenakshi Amman Temple. We reached the temple around 10 AM and there was huge crowd due to Meenakshi Thirukalyanam Event in Temple. I had visited this temple twice before, however things are changed now. Any type of electronics is not allowed, even they took my kids fairy wand as it had small battery cell. This may be due to the fire accident which has happened in 2018. Anyway we surrender our electronic items in safety locker and went inside after thorough scrutiny like we see in airports. We spent some time in the temple pond and returned to hotel for check-out.

In the return journey we took a stop in Trichy to get savouries from Famous Mayil mark sweets and take away Dindugal briyani spot near Trichy Junction.

And the Historical temple run ended with good memories.

[Bala02]

Thank you for sharing the beautiful photographs. This gave me nostaligic memories as I have been to both these places multiple times. They are great pieces of architectural marvel built in granite. If we read Udaiyar and Gangai Konda cholan by Balakumaran, the story gives an account of how these temples were built and the history behind it. There is one more lovely temple on the route you took. This temple is located near Kumbakonam and was built by the great grandson of Raja Raja cholan. Its the Darasuram temple also as Airavatesvara Temple. Though its smaller in size this also is made out of granite and looks like a Smaller version of the Thanjai Periya Kovil, it has more intricate carvings and sculptures which are worth seeing.

I am not a great fan of Ponniyin selvan though. The movie and the novel distorts history and actually portrays Aditya Karikalan and Paluvettaraiyar in poor light. The fictional character of Nandini never existed. In reality Aditya Karikalan was a genius who expanded the Chola territory and Subdued the Pandyas and Rashrakutas and laid the foundation for Raja Raja Chola to achieve great heights. He was killed by pure decit and this is documented in inscriptions as well. Paluvettaraiyar was a brave war general as well and to show that these two magnificent brave men strayed away from their duty and got bewitched by Nandini's beauty is absurd and disrespectful. (This is just my opinion upon reading other novels and doing little more google research. I hope I am not offending anyone with my views)

[Kosfactor]

One of my favorite subjects, knowing our past always helps in deciding our future course of action. Thank you for the wonderful travelogue.

Tanjai Periya Kovil is an incredible cultural heritage, a jaw dropping XXXL sized architecture in granite, in my eyes the absolute pinnacle of ancient architecture.

It is said to be based on the layout of Tiruvarur thyagaraja temple, that can be your next road trip.

[raju2512]

Originally Posted by Bala02

Thank you for sharing the beautiful photographs.

I am not a great fan of Ponniyin selvan though. The movie and the novel distorts history and actually portrays Aditya Karikalan and Paluvettaraiyar in poor light. The fictional character of Nandini never existed. In reality Aditya Karikalan was a genius who expanded the Chola territory and Subdued the Pandyas and Rashrakutas and laid the foundation for Raja Raja Chola to achieve great heights. He was killed by pure decit and this is documented in inscriptions as well. Paluvettaraiyar was a brave war general as well and to show that these two magnificent brave men strayed away from their duty and got bewitched by Nandini's beauty is absurd and disrespectful. (This is just my opinion upon reading other novels and doing little more google research. I hope I am not offending anyone with my views)

True, while the novel is gripping to read, it is not history. Unfortunately, we learn our history (the wrong one) through movies and novels

While Ganagaikonda Cholapuram and Thanjavur temples are architectural master pieces , there is a temple every 10kms in the composite Thanjavur district, which are much older and religiously more significant. While the Navagraha circuit and Chidambaram are well known, no tourist visits Thiruvarur, Thiruvidaimarudhur and others which are steeped in history

[RaviKBobba]

Good pictures. I liked the second picture where the Dwajasthabham is parallel with the temple gopuram.

The Thanjavur big temple is in my travel list from a long time. Since we moved from Bangalore to Hyderabad, unable to do a road trip to this city.

Similar temple structures could also be found in Kanchipuram as well. However, I felt they were neglected by the concerned authorities. If they improve the facilities they could attract so many more tourists and increase revenue.

[AutoDowntowner]

Incredible Bharat. There is nothing like this. Few months ago I visited Kanchipuram. I walked to a temple nearby, then I saw another temple there. and surprisingly I walked the whole city only to watch the ancient Hindu temples. It was the best experience of my life.

[sgmuser]

Originally Posted by Bala02

Thank you for sharing the beautiful photographs. This gave me nostaligic memories as I have been to both these places multiple times.

I am not a great fan of Ponniyin selvan though. The movie and the novel distorts history and actually portrays Aditya Karikalan and Paluvettaraiyar in poor light. The fictional character of Nandini never existed. In reality Aditya Karikalan was a genius who expanded the Chola territory and Subdued the Pandyas and Rashrakutas and laid the foundation for Raja Raja Chola to achieve great heights. He was killed by pure decit and this is documented in inscriptions as well. Paluvettaraiyar was a brave war general as well and to show that these two magnificent brave men strayed away from their duty and got bewitched by Nandini's beauty is absurd and disrespectful. (This is just my opinion upon reading other novels and doing little more google research. I hope I am not offending anyone with my views)

Seriously some great photos and write ups.

You know what, I am very happy that I not alone when I told my circle that I don't like the novel PS but like the story telling style. PS is not a history book but rather a story/novel and it is not true story even though it has lots of characters with names that are once real. Wish the wisdom prevails with these writers and movie makers to communicate this first.

If you have not read yet please read Karithundu by Mu.Va. This is the style of writing where it shows the capability of the writer and the skill with which he keeps glued and just can't keep the novel away. I still remember reading the book non stop after I found it in my dad's book box when I was around 10 or so.

Yes, PS distorts the facts of history and the biggest problem is that these kids and young adults think that this is the real history. I felt so helpless with that.

[Kashief]

Originally Posted by Bala02

Thank you for sharing the beautiful photographs. This gave me nostaligic memories as I have been to both these places multiple times. They are great pieces of architectural marvel built in granite.

Thanks Bala02! I’ll try to get my hands on Balakumaran book. Agree that movie has not justified the novel. However I believe that’s the best they can take in 5.5 hours in 2 parts. A web series might justify, by explaining all characters in detail.

[Kashief]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

One of my favorite subjects, knowing our past always helps in deciding our future course of action. Thank you for the wonderful travelogue.
It is said to be based on the layout of Tiruvarur thyagaraja temple, that can be your next road trip.

Thanks for your kind words! This is my 1st travelogue in this portal And I’ll add Tiruvarur in my travel list. It is also good for my kid to know the history, heritage of our ancestors.

[vennarbank]

Originally Posted by Kashief

Thanks for your kind words! This is my 1st travelogue in this portal And I’ll add Tiruvarur in my travel list. It is also good for my kid to know the history, heritage of our ancestors.

Felt good to see the pictures of PeriyaKovil, which i used to visit daily when i was young as that was one of the few places where we Thanjavur people can go in those days.
Also do write about other temples of architecture like Darasuram, Pattiswaram etc.

[shankar.balan]

This is a beautiful series of photos of our wonderful architecture of ancient times.
Thanks for sharing.

[Kashief]

Originally Posted by vennarbank

Felt good to see the pictures of PeriyaKovil, which i used to visit daily when i was young as that was one of the few places where we Thanjavur people can go in those days.
Also do write about other temples of architecture like Darasuram, Pattiswaram etc.

Thanks for the kind wishes! I have those places in my list

[TheSpadgieDrive]

This is so well covered, I will be driving from Varkala to Tamil Nadu ( Rameshwarma - Dhanushkodi, Thanjuvar, Pondicherry, Mahabalipuram). It would be truly help if you can help me with the best route and the road conditions.
I have a polo 1.2 and will be driving alone!!


Regards,
TheSpadgieDrive

[Kashief]

Originally Posted by TheSpadgieDrive

This is so well covered, I will be driving from Varkala to Tamil Nadu ( Rameshwarma - Dhanushkodi, Thanjuvar, Pondicherry, Mahabalipuram).

I haven’t travel beyond Madurai via road. So I can suggest below route option if you are visiting/going through Madurai.

1. Madurai - Thanjavur via Trichy through NH 785 and 38
2. Thanjavur - Pondy via Perambalur, Ulunthoorpettai, Viluppuram through NH 136 and NH 38. Shortest route is NH 36 but the road is under construction and it’s worth taking extra 30 kms to avoid this route.
3. Pondy - Mahabalipuram you can take East Coast Road.