The traffic was menacing. Could be of the Onam rush, I consoled myself. 2 hours for a journey as short as 50kms became the new normal in National Highway. Less said about the city conditions, the better.
But why rant? I am in the traffic. I am the traffic.
Whatever… I just need to stretch my legs.
“Let’s hit the roads in our neighbouring state. They have proper highways”. Words from my cousin couldn’t have come at a better time. So that’s it. A highway drive.
After a lot of pondering, the best we came up was centred around Madurai. Either a Kollam - Madurai - Kodaikanal or Kollam - Madurai - Kanyakumari circuit. A short drive and we had three days at our disposal. Consensus was reached that we will decide on the circuit once we reach Madurai.
We managed to beat the morning rush hour with an early start and crossed over to Tamil Nadu through Shenkottai in the early hours of the day. Road conditions were smooth except for some craters near the border which could gobble up a mid-sized SUV. Seems like it’s no man’s land which, authorities either side is not bothered of.
Shenkottai was originally part of Travancore Kingdom. Later in 1956, parts of it were transferred to then Madras state. Some old buildings and arches still bear the emblem of Travancore. Discussions inside the car shifted from financial markets to kings and erstwhile kingdoms.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-3-thenkasi.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375117d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-3-thenkasi.jpg)
Weather on the other side of western ghats was exactly opposite. Clear blue skies and bright sun. Rainbow somewhere after Thenkasi.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-2-thenkasi.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375116d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-2-thenkasi.jpg)
Right place for a pitstop.
Conversations about the Royals circumvented the globe from Greeks to Romans to the era of Pallavas and Cholas. We took much pride in our ancient Kings and their valour. After much of chest thumping, we pulled over to Hari’s just before Madurai for a break.
We don’t know whether it was the bespoke double strong coffee or the much-needed loo break that knocked some sense into our brains. Because now we had a new destination and that was unanimously approved - The Brihadeeswara temple! - as we reckoned that a movie was to be released based on the mighty Chola King.
Caffeinated, tanks emptied, and new bearings loaded in maps, we headed towards Thanjavur. But only to be slowed down by traffic. Scores of vehicles, sedans, MPVs, SUVs all lowered, stanced and decorated with a particular flag moving towards we dunno where. Don’t get me wrong. It wasn’t any car show nor the cars lowered with modified suspensions. These were human lowered and skilfully done. Soon we managed to go past the epicentre with much relief. Our only remorse was that we couldn’t have one of those flags to adorn our car.
Talking about flag, the conversation inside the car swiftly changed to politics and before we know it, the air conditioning seemed to be insufficient. I attributed it to the subject rather than the outside temperature or a malfunction. But before it could turn ugly, Lord Ganesha beckoned us when one of us read the signboard for Pillayarpatti. My cousin was quick to point out that it’s a famous temple and suggested a visit which we all obliged.
Wait – when was this supposed to be a pilgrimage?
We made it right on time, hardly a few minutes before the Sanctum Santorum closed and managed a blessed darshan.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-4-pillayarpatti.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375118d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-4-pillayarpatti.jpg)
The tower of the temple.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-5-pillayarpatti.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375119d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-5-pillayarpatti.jpg)
Selfie time.
Although lazing after a decent meal, one can’t really miss the sight of a fort built on an enormous rock formation. It was only natural for us to explore it.
Thirumayam Fort.
Built in the seventeenth century and now maintained well by ASI. A bastion on top of it gives a 360 degree view of surroundings.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-6-thirumayam-fort.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375120d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-6-thirumayam-fort.jpg)
View from the fort
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-7-thirumayam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375121d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-7-thirumayam.jpg)
Another view
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-8-thirumayam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375122d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-8-thirumayam.jpg)
Fort built on rock. A part of the rock is carved to make a chamber in which houses a Sivling. Iron ladders are placed to climb into the chamber for visitors.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-9-thirumayam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375123d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-9-thirumayam.jpg)
GOAT
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-10-thirumayam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375124d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-10-thirumayam.jpg)
Standing strong
We did not explore much other than the fort and later found out that there was more to it than the fort.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-11-thirumayam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375125d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-11-thirumayam.jpg)
The temple on one side of the Fort.
A pitstop at Pudukottai for a grab of locally processed cashew nuts launched the discussion on how we (hailing from the cashew capital of the world) lost the industry hegemony. Soon, we were rolling through streets of Thanjavur on our visit to the Brihadeeswara temple a short while before sunset.
No superlatives would do justice to describe the temple. An architectural marvel and a structure so grand in scale that it captures ones attention from any corner of the city exuding grandeur and richness of a bygone era.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-12-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375126d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-12-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Entrance at blue hour
The Temple was initially constructed around a moat in the 11th century by the Chola dynasty reflecting their culture and style. Later in 16th century, it was fortified.
The complex consists of five main sections including one of the tallest tower in South India and the site is listed in UNESCO World Heritage as one of the largest Hindu Temples.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-13-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375127d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-13-brihadeeswara.jpg)
One of the idols.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-14-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375128d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-14-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Mandapam before the main shrine
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-15-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375129d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-15-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Paintings on the ceiling of mandapam.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-16-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375130d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-16-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Connecting with God
We were so awestruck that we decided to return in the morning for another look.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-17-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375131d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-17-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Corner view
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-18-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375132d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-18-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Seen from the pillared and covered verandah running throughout the perimeter of the temple complex.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-19-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375133d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-19-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Instagram
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-20-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375134d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-20-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Reality
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-21-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375135d1687023023t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-21-brihadeeswara.jpg)
One for the album
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-22-brihadeeswara.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375136d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-22-brihadeeswara.jpg)
Worship
Equally impressive was the stay at Hotel Sangam. An unexpected find and both boarding and the restaurant deserves a special mention.
Knowing that we were in Thanjavur, my cousin’s brother-in-law, a well-travelled gentleman, suggested Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Chidambaram. We obliged and it didn’t disappoint.
Gangaikonda Cholapuram.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-23-gangaikonda.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375137d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-23-gangaikonda.jpg)
A similar architecture of Brihadeeswara temple.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-24-gangaikonda.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375138d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-24-gangaikonda.jpg)
Admiring the architecture.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-25-gangaikonda.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375139d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-25-gangaikonda.jpg)
The scale of the structure is eveident.
Chidambaram.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-26-chidambaram.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375140d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-26-chidambaram.jpg)
One of the entrance towers of Thillai Nataraja temple
It’s a massive complex of marvelous stone carvings. Unfortunately, much of the complex is closed for visitors and is in bad shape.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-27-chidambaram.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375141d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-27-chidambaram.jpg)
Devotion
Since we couldn’t find a stay of choice in Chidambaram, we headed to Trichy after the temple visit.
Streets of Chidambaram.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-28-chidambaram.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375142d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-28-chidambaram.jpg)
Street vendor
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-29-chidambaram.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375143d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-29-chidambaram.jpg)
Resting legs
Late night and no prior booking left us scouting for a place at Trichy. Luckily managed a decent stay in the outskirts of the city. Stay in Trichy called for a visit to Srirangam.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-30-srirangam.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375144d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-30-srirangam.jpg)
One of the mighty towers of Sri Ranganatha Temple.
A simple long drive on open highways thus turned to a temple run. Nothing short of an overdose of culture, ancient architecture, and spirituality, it was time to head back. Having satiated the urge for driving on the open highways, I handed over the wheels to my brother in the return leg. We were really impressed by the highways in Tamil Nadu.
The superb Trichy – Madurai highway saw us being humbled by every other car be it a Range Rover or an Alto.
![To the Land of Temples | Tamil Nadu-31-uno.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/travelogues/2375145d1687023078t-land-temples-tamil-nadu-31-uno.jpg)
It took a while for us to catch up with this 20+ year old Italian beauty.
Being a public holiday, Shenkottai, looked busy with tourists from other side of the mountains. However, we managed to reach our homes by sunset safely with a consensus on destination for the next trip – Mahabalipuram.