[hummer]

Malnad is a region in South India known for its beautiful forests, rivers, mountains and the ever amazing western ghats range. It is the hub for tourism and popular holiday destination for many. Malnad consists of Shivamogga, Chikkamagalur and Hassan districts.

Shivamogga is popularly known as the gateway of Malnad, fortunate are the people who have a base at Shivamogga to enjoy the heavenly world around, all through the year !!

This short travelogue has two parts:
(1) Hike to Kavaledurga fort at Thirthahalli (April 2022)
(2) Monsoon drive to Chikkamagalur (August 2022)

Part1 - Hike to Kavaledurga fort:

The Kavaledurga fort, also known as the Bhuvanagiri fort, is situated in Shivamogga district, 20 kms away from Thirthahalli town.

The fort was built in the 9th century, and it was renovated in the 14th century by Cheluvarangappa. Kavaledurga, was a stronghold of the Nayakas of Keladi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kavaledurga_Fort

3 of us started from Shivamogga in my friend’s Hyundai Creta at 5pm, reached Thirthahalli around 6.30pm, the drive of ~60kms is itself an experience through thick forest with very little habitat. We traveled alongside Thunga river all the way, crossing Gajanur dam, Sakrebailu elephant camp and reached Thirthahalli. We had booked a room at Thirthahalli Malnad club, our local friend joined us for coffee, we took a stroll in the main market street, returned to club, had dinner and hit the bed. During dinner we planned for a small sunrise trek to Sri Siddeshwara Swamy Gudda nearby club.

Got up early at 5am and headed towards Sri Siddeshwara Swamy Gudda which is about 5 mins drive from the club.


Parked Creta at the base and started to climb:


Within hardly 30 mins we were at the top witnessing the mesmerizing sunrise. We could see the amazing panoramic view of the Thirthahalli town, Tunga river/iconic bridge and the glimpse of Western ghats range.




We could see the quarry attempts and left overs:


There is a small Siddeshwara temple at the top (it was closed), we walked around, spent some time and came down.




Finished the breakfast at a restaurant on main street, met our Thirthahalli friend’s family and headed to his farmhouse.

Small map in hotel has a lot of information on nearby tourist attractions:


Reached the farmhouse after traveling about 10kms, it’s a beautiful farm and house nestled between real forest, they have retained real forest trees and surroundings without harming the natural habitat.


This is the old farm house (To be renovated):


We were walking carefully to avoid leaches, but it caught couple of us.


Food was getting ready on traditional fire:


We took a small walk around farm and returned to main house. All houses at Thirthahalli have a typical architecture due to heavy rain, we spent some good time there and started drive towards the Kavaledurga fort.

My local friends didn’t want me to write this travelogue about Kavaledurga fort fearing about tourists flocking and spoiling the cleanliness, but I couldn’t stop myself from sharing such a beautiful treasure. Let us keep this heavenly place plastic free and clean.

Roads were surprisingly in great condition in that remote area even with heavy rainfall during the season. Within 30-40 mins were at the base of Kavaledurga fort. Started the hike slowly, we could experience steep rise at some places. We were talking, stopping at important points, taking pictures and reached the top without feeling tiredness. There were many lakes inside the fort and saw cows grazing at that height.

Kavaledurga fort resting on the top of a hill amidst forest and lakes. It requires a hike of at least 4 km to reach the top, you can keep a good 2 hours. It’s an awesome combination of history and natural beauty, there are several temples inside the fort including a mosque.

The old palace is completely ruined, but you can appreciate the architecture and thoughts behind certain planning in that era.

Entrance of the fort hike:


Brief history:




Gradual steep:


Big steps:






One of the many lakes inside the fort:


Ruins of the palace:




Royal pool:




What is special about Kavaledurga fort:
• Wonderful architecture of the fort and palace
• Fort has 3 rounds of strong rock wall defense system
• Royal bedrooms, bathrooms, wells & water system, guard/weapon rooms
• Freshwater pond on top of the summit is a beauty
• There are Hindu temples, Jain temple and Mosque inside fort
• Hiking till the top of Kavaledurga fort is a great experience
• From the top, one can see sunrise/sunset in Arabian sea on a clear day

Information for visitors:
• Exploring Kavaledurga fort takes 2-3 hours depending on how fit you are physically
• Entry closes by 5 PM, there is no entry fee, ample parking is available
• Do carry sufficient drinking water, fruits and healthy food
• There is only a small stall at the base for water, coffee, biscuits and tender coconut
• Proper shoes are recommended with hats and umbrellas as necessary
• Fort is located just 20 kms from Thirthahalli town well connected by good roads up to the foothill

Appreciated the ancient architecture of the palace remains, sat there for a while and started our descend. Returned to the base to meet rest of our friends who traveled from Shivamogga. It was an awesome get together at such a serene place.

Get together after the hike:


All of us together returned to farmhouse for lunch. We were so hungry after the trek, we ate like never before and returned to Thirthahalli by evening. Took shower at the club, vacated, had a nice coffee and traveled back to Shivamogga for dinner.

In front of the club:


Though short, it was an awesome experience, test of our physical strength, right from the 5am trek, the whole day was filled with so many activities till we retired for the day. We don’t feel strained in the good company, we will go again there with families to cover “Kundadri betta” next time.

Part2 to be continued...

[hummer]

Part2 - Monsoon drive to Chikkamagalur:

It was pouring heavily in most of southern Karnataka during August 2022, moreover there was an orange alert in Shivamogga and Chikkamagalur. Waterlogged roads, landslides, submerged bridges were a common sight in the region.

We were already in Shivamogga for a function and it was a grand get together after a long long time. Living with heavy rains is not new for people in this region, life goes as usual, I remember walking to school in rain with duckback rubber shoes, school bags and rain coats, can still feel smell of that rubberish duckback school bags 😊.

We decided to drive to Chikkamagalur in friend’s VW Vento (later to be joined by others in a Toyota Innova) without worrying about the landslides or waterlogged roads. All were excited to explore a new place “The Mellows” on top of the hill Devirammana Betta.

We started from Shivamogga after the function around 5pm via Lakkavalli Bhadra dam to reach Tarikere and took diversion towards Kemmannugundi.

Somewhere after Tarikere:


From that diversion, it was just green world everywhere and the drive was awesome with empty twisting roads through forest and coffee estates, Vento did really well. Some roads were very narrow, it was almost dark by the time we reached the place, it was drizzling, we couldn’t see much, but place was small, serene and not much flat area being on top of the hill.

Parking:


We got our cottages allocated, had a long coffee talk, by then it was already 8pm.

View from the balcony:


We asked the care taker to prepare some specific food, played TT for a while, camp fire was on in a separate area (top covered) and our other friends in Innova joined us at 9pm. We got the tasty food served at the camp fire place, dinner & discussions went till midnight. Since it’s a small property, entire property was ours for that night.


We could only appreciate the beauty of the property in the morning. Cottages were facing east with a breathtaking valley view, though cloudy we could get the glimpse of the sunrise from our cottage balconies, it is the most amazing thing about those cottages.







Guest at the balcony:


We had morning coffee, went for a short walk up the forest through the slippery muddy stretch, generally when there is no rain, they take visitors for a guided trek it seems.













It was such a pleasant morning, we could hear the sound of nature, such a blissful place.

This is how the cottages look from a distance:






With the king of jungle:




Hot breakfast was ready with multiple options, followed by strong coffee. Sat down again chitchatting, we realized the time only when visitors started arriving, we were busy playing TT.


It was breathtaking view from the balcony:


Staff is really well mannered provided the great service, customer oriented nature, overall it was really a memorable experience.

Dining hall:




Bid goodbye to the staff, visited Deviramma Temple, had prasadam there and started the return journey.


We can see the Mellows from the temple:




Somewhere on the way to temple:




On the way back, gave a quick visit to Bhadra dam at Lakkavalli, all gates were open due to heavy rain water inflow, it was pretty picturesque.




Reached Shivamogga by evening. It was a memorable trip during this harsh monsoon.

Wear seat belts and drive safe !!

[love_travelling]

I couldn't find the name and address of the Cottages in Chikmangalur. Please will you post that.

The place looks really beautiful.

[hummer]

Place is really beautiful, but small & cozy, nothing much to do outdoors other than treks and visit to nearby places. It's a great option if you like to stay indoors, enjoy the nature and no crowd at all.

Here is the website of the property:
http://www.themellowshomestay.com/

[abirnale]

Originally Posted by love_travelling

I couldn't find the name and address of the Cottages in Chikmangalur. Please will you post that.

The Mellows Homestay
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HuhuPbxi1acp8EY8A?g_st=ic

The road to this place is beautiful too - when I went there a few weeks ago, we spotted an Indian Gaur there in the plantation. The Deviramma Temple is undergoing renovation though. The roads around that temple has lush gren paddy fields around!

Sri Deviramma Temple
https://maps.app.goo.gl/j4ouTmdJggFeaq9j6?g_st=ic

[VikramCS]

Originally Posted by hummer

Part2 - Monsoon drive to Chikkamagalur:
It was pouring heavily in most of southern Karnataka during August 2022, moreover there was an orange alert in Shivamogga and Chikkamagalur. Waterlogged roads, landslides, submerged bridges were a common sight in the region.
Wear seat belts and drive safe !!

Your signature says it all 'Malnad Wanderer'. Yes, beauty of Malnad is during rainy season, and, it's really a great experience staying in this region during rains.
The homestay's location is tempting me Did you visit any other places in Chikkamagalur...any spotting of Neelakurinji?

I too try and visit this region once a year, would love to get in touch..

Regards.

[hummer]

Originally Posted by VikramCS

Your signature says it all 'Malnad Wanderer'. Yes, beauty of Malnad is during rainy season, and, it's really a great experience staying in this region during rains.
The homestay's location is tempting me Did you visit any other places in Chikkamagalur...any spotting of Neelakurinji?

I too try and visit this region once a year, would love to get in touch..

Regards.

Thanks VikramCS, we didn't visit any other places as we have visited Chikkamagalur many times before, moreover we didn't have time.

We were there at the right season but surprisingly couldn't spot "Neelakurinji" anywhere on our way, not sure if it is only towards Mullayyanagiri side.