The words "Independence Day" bring forth memories of sacrifice, struggle, war, death and joy.
To the victor go the spoils.
In 2022, 15 August was special, as the country celebrated 75 years since we threw off the British yoke. Usually I am more excited on Republic day. Put it down to all the pomp and splendour and magnificent display of our Faujis marching in perfect unison. Compared to this Independence Day celebrations are the beige version, the only colourful highlight being the hoisting of our beloved Tiranga and singing of our National Anthem.
But since this was a momentous milestone, I decided to actually drag myself out of bed and do something special. As the nation geared up for the Diamond jubilee celebrations, I was reminded of these immortal lines.
Crush your enemies
See them driven before you
And hear the lamentation
Of their women
~ Conan, the Barbarian, Cimmerian
Sadly I am no warrior nor a Terminator to crush enemy skulls. Also it is highly illegal and my mom is too old to bring me
Gajar ka Halwa in jail. So I let that part slide.
As for wailing women, howling their lamentations, I have never seen one in my 50+ years of walking this earth.
Ok, perhaps one. There was this girl, who made a huge scene, after I threw her doll out of the window because she called my toy car "stupid". Pallavi, if you are reading this, I am still not sorry. So there.
But that was decades ago, when we were in Kindergarten and I don't think it counts.
Anyway, figuring out I didn't have any realistic options left, I decided to do the next best thing.
I would visit the St. Mary's church. Which is 196 years old. And it was built by the British.
For me it was the perfect way to gloat on Independence day.
Where were the Gora Sahibs now eh? That's right, nowhere to be seen.
Freeeedooooooooom!
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St. Mary's Church is a very old institution. It is so old, that it's also known as the Mother Church of Deccan. The foundation stone was laid down in 1825 by one Reginald Heber who was the Bishop of Calcutta who, probably after seeing the design plans, described it as spacious but in bad architectural taste. The actual construction work was done by Lieut.Nash of the East India Company’s Engineers.
This is how it looked in 1870
This is how it looks today
Since it was built by the British as a garrison Church, it's located in the cantonment, which by definition is a British military area. Today of course, this area is the HQ of the Southern Command of the Indian armed forces.
Main entrance
As you enter the premises, you are greeted with this riot of colour which screams one word;
antique
Ok, to be fair the carpets are new, but still.
Note the ceiling fans. Only two blades. Most probably imported from England decades ago.
Also note the wooden ceiling. Most probably genuine teak.
Military colours have always played an important part in military pageantry. Probably because bright colours held aloft were easy to spot amongst all the dust and din of the battle. These colours were "retired" and thus offered to God.
The Hyderabad mentioned on the plaque is
not the one we know as Bhagyanagar in Telangana, but the one in Sindh, Pakistan.
The 125th Napier's Rifles was an infantry regiment of the British Indian Army. At various points in history it was also known as the 1st Extra Battalion Bombay Native Infantry, the 25th Regiment of Bombay Native Infantry (1826–1889) and the 25th Bombay Rifles. Amalgamated with five other regiments in 1922, it is now the 5th Battalion, Rajputana Rifles. The Battalion celebrated its bicentenary on 17 Feb 2020.
The Battle of Miani (or Meeanee as the British called it) took place on 17 February 1843, where Charles Napier and his troops clashed with the Baluch army of Talpur Amirs of Sindh, led by Mir Nasir Khan Talpur. The end result? East India Company victory and the annexation of Sindh into British India.
Abyssinia is the old name for Ethiopia.
Abyssinians, of African persuasion, were called Habshis in the vernacular.
Abyssinia > Habsan
Abyssinians > Habshis
The Pews. I am no expert but looked like teak. Very well maintained.
The main altar. Do note the beautiful stained glass in the background.
Also note the memorial plaques on the walls. Those are dedicated to assorted British war heroes, as well as some Indians.
Amongst all these, two deserve special mention. Lieutenant Colonel Brevet and Major William Morris. Both were one of the very few survivors of the Battle of Balaclava, where the Russians trounced the British on 25 October 1854. This battle has been immortalised as a poem, The Charge of the Light Brigade by Tennyson.
Since this was built as a Garrison church, it is but natural, military standards and motifs would be part of the design.
The eagle as a military symbol is very old in Western culture.
It was a standard of every Roman legion. Known as Aquila, a legionary known as an
aquilifer, (literally "eagle-bearer"), was charged with carrying this standard. The eagle was not just a symbol or a rallying point. It was also the
prestige of the legion, and losing it meant great shame and dishonour. In fact, after the annihilation of three legions at Teutoburg Forest, the Romans spent decades retaliating for the defeat while also attempting to recover the three lost eagles.
HBO Rome fans will also remember, how Julius Caesar had his standard stolen and being the savvy and cunning commander that he was, how he used this incident for a political chess move.
Over the years this found it's way into the of the Holy Roman Empire, which in turn made it to the Prussian coat of arms and of course the Nazis. As a matter of fact, even today, the eagle is the emblem of the Federal Republic of Germany.
Bharat, has worshiped the eagle as the divine being Garuda, who is the choice mount of Lord Vishnu. All this of course predates the Romans.
Stone base topped with teak wood. As per norms, the priests deliver their sermons from this location.
The Churches, usually have a cemetery in their premises. But never have I seen people buried
inside the Church. Normal people that is. Usually, as per my catholic friends, this honour is reserved for Bishops.
But St. Mary's Church, Pune is an exception.
Inside, are not one, but
two graves.
Edward West, an economist, who also served as a judge
Robert Grant, who was the Governor of Bombay. Those familiar with Grant Road or Grant Medical College, this is the same dude.
No, the medical college was not built by him. He merely proposed building such a college. The financial expenses were taken care of by two Indians, Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy and Jagannath Shankarsheth Murkute, who were extremely, and I mean
extremely generous in their philanthropy (1 Lakh plus each. Mind you this is the lakh plus of 1838)
Grant died, in Dapodi, 9 days before his proposal was formally accepted by the East India Company administration. Since he was instrumental in seeding the idea, the college was named after him.
View of the main door, looking back from the altar.
Besides the altar, there is yet another stained glass window, just as beautiful.
The structure in the foreground is the dedicated place for baptism. The upper wooden structure opens up. Then the priest will hold the baby and perform the baptism ritual. The water used is drained out via the stone base which encloses the drain pipes.
Practical and very aesthetically pleasing.
A close up view of the imagery
For anyone wishing to visit, please note the weekly off is
Monday.