[kvamshi04]

Hello members, My name is Vamshi, I am from Hyderabad and I work at a leading hospitality institute under the Ministry of Tourism. This is my second attempt to write a travelogue. The first one is yet to be published.

In 1st week of May, as the academic year came to an end, summer vacations were declared for me as well. This was my first vacation and I wanted to make the best out of it. After a round of consultation with my friends who made plans to Vietnam, they changed it to Thailand and ultimately cancelled it. The next destination was Leh on a motorcycle, but this could seriously dent my savings, considering I undertook a week-long biking expedition in April across Meghalaya.
One night while scrolling Instagram, I across this company, called Wanderon and they were organizing a summer Spiti tour in the month of June, which was quite affordable hence took the plunge (the WhatsApp support was too good even at midnight, the lady was patient enough to reply). The next task was to look for a company to travel with, most of my friends had work or family commitments hence no one joined and I decided to go ahead solo, this isn’t the first time I was travelling solo, so it isn’t a problem. Booked my slot, booked my tickets and started buying all the necessary things needed for this trip. Packed my bags, left for Delhi and met some of my friends before the trip started on the 10th of June.

Day 0,10th June: All the travellers, were advised to reach Majnu-Ka-Tilla by 8:00 PM, most of them reached on/before time, and some of them were stuck in the traffic but they made it to the bus. This is where I met three guys (all were MBA batch mates at a premier college), had an instant connection with them and they tagged me to their group and the solo trip comes to an end !!!. This bus would drop us at Manali, we took the Eastern Peripheral Highway and then took the NH-44 via Panipat, stopped at Urban Turban, Kurukshetra for dinner. Our original plan was to have dinner at Murthal, but being a Friday it was crowded and parking a Volvo-9400 can be a pain, hence Urban Turban, this wasn’t a good experience the menu pricing would put the best fine dining restaurants to shame and the taste made sure, you never visit this place again. Luckily, just before I boarded the bus from Delhi, one of my close friends packed some dinner for me, had my dinner and called it a day. The night ride was nothing short of a GTA experience.

To be continued....

[kvamshi04]

Day 1
With almost 5 hours of journey remaining, woke up and witnessed some of the most scenic views on the way to Manali, one or two short breaks, music and a round of ice-breaking all of us settled down and now we knew each of the 34 fellow travellers by their professions/companies but not names, LinkedIn on the move.


View at daybreak, near Manali.

By 12 noon, we reached Manali, we were shifted to three mini travellers and then taken to our hotel, Snow Bloom Resort. Quick check-in and a round of chit-chatting three of us settled down, got freshened up and had lunch.

View from our room.

After lunch, we had a free day and we could go around Manali, we were dropped and picked up at Mall road by the organizers. With very limited time in hand, we decided to head towards the famous Vashishtha temple, known for its elaborate wooden structure and the hot water springs. the temple wasn’t crowded, hence the darshan was quick and then we moved towards the hot water springs, one can keep their feet in these hot water springs. In the beginning, it feels too hot to handle, but once you get the hang of it is really soothing and can put you to ease after a long journey. After the visit to the temple, we did some cafe hopping and called it a day on the banks of river Beas, while enjoying the sunset.


View from one of the cafe's.


The river bank and the string of headlamps.

The day ended with the briefing from our tour guide on AMS, layering and the tough road to Kaza and not to forget the 5:00 am wake-up. (I didn't sign up for a punishment trip nor to be a part of the Tour of Duty)

Day 2, Manali to Kaza, 185KMS: The adventure begins !!

We started at 7:00 am, towards the Kaza.
First stop, the Atal Tunnel

North Portal, Atal Tunnel, a B.R.O. marvel, we stopped here for 30mins to take millions of photos !! #Julley

Second stop @ Koksar
We stopped at a small eatery, not very far from the river bank dishing out parathas, Maggi, butter toast and the famous butter tea (which provides you with caloric energy suited to high altitudes and may also help prevent chapped lips). Koksar is the last point where one gets network, from now on you can keep your phone in flight mode till Lossar and enjoy the back-breaking ride, taking you across some of the most beautiful landscapes.

View from the river bank @ Koksar.

We took the Gramphu-Kaza highway, the road is nothing less than a nightmare for many, but for an off-roading junkie, it is a dream come true. This road takes you through some of the most serene views, every turn you take, tells you a story and your eyes widen with every turn. Indeed a paradise, but can be deadly if you lose your concentration. Civilization doesn’t exist here, all you see is green and white patches on the mountains, gravel and rocks on the road. You come across civilization at Chhatru, a bridge across the Beas helps you cross the river and shacks welcome you with some tea and snacks. This is also the place where the Hampta Trek ends, hence you find a lot of campsites.


From all roads to no roads !! This traveller will be our ride for the next five days. Do we call it, the Gurkha's grandfather

This road is the lifeline of Kaza and is generally closed from November to July, since the last two years the road is opened in May, giving a larger window to the tourists. On the same road, you come across the famous Chacha-Chachi Dhaba, we reached here by noon and it was jam-packed. I wasn’t aware of this place and its popularity did a little bit of research and found out, that the lovely couple has helped numerous travellers and are saviours in the true sense.

At Batal, a famous stop for lunch on this route.

After a quick lunch at Batal and we head towards the Kunzum Pass located at around 15000ft, as soon as you get down here. A strong, cold wind hits you and wakes you up, a lot of drivers seek blessings from the Kunzum Mata, before going ahead. We offered our prayers here, took some photos and started towards Lossar.

At Kunzum pass, a brief encounter with the bone-chilling winds.

An half hours drive from Kunzum pass, we reached Lossar and this is where our backs breathe a sigh of relief. From here we had good tarmac and mobile network, we stopped here for tea/coffee and started towards our destination Kaza, and enjoyed the mesmerizing, tall sand mountains all along the way.


Welcome to Lossar

We reached our camp at around 7:30 pm, totally exhausted. The camp is managed by Wanderon, the camp was neat and clean and each of the tents had attached washrooms and proper plumbing in place.

At the camp, all the travellers assembled at the common dining area, listening to music and chit-chatting, while yummy dinner was being served, after dinner, our heart rate and O2 levels were checked and recorded. And then we were briefed about the next day’s itinerary(a daily routine from now on).

[kvamshi04]

Day 3, Sightseeing at Spiti
We woke up to an amazing view at around 8:00 am, freshened up had a good breakfast, and a few cups of tea and were all ready to hit the road. We were constantly being reminded to take half Diamox after breakfast and then go ahead. Before we started our sightseeing, the team captains had organized some team-building activities, and our heart rate and O2 levels were checked and recorded(a daily morning routine, from now on).


Wanderon Camp, Kaza

First stop, Chicham Bridge
The highest suspension bridge in Asia, at the height of 13596ft. As you look down this one, you'll find yourself gaping below a 1000 feet deep gorge, known as Samba Lamba Nallah.
We clicked some photographs here and I took this opportunity to interact with some international bikers.
Taking photos here can be challenging, as to get the perfect shot, one may have to either stop the traffic or wait for the traffic to clear.


Second stop, Key Monastery or Kye Gompa
The most famous tourist destination in Spiti valley. At around 13668 ft, this 1000-year-old monastery is the largest Buddhist learning centre in Spiti. We visited the monastery and the prayer rooms within. The shrine on the top of the monastery gives you a breathtaking view of the valley. We were offered some herbal tea, I took it and sat in of the corners soaked in some bright sun and wanted to settle there, the peace and tranquillity at this monastery can make you forget everything in life and also make you wonder, how tough life could be for the lamas during the winter months.


Third stop, Hikkim Post Office
Situated at 14567ft, this is the world’s highest post office. In a place where mobile or internet fails to reach, the Indian postal service does its job effectively. Wrote and posted some postcards, the one addressed to myself reached home after a week, while I was writing this travelogue (that’s quick). Never imagined, that a post office can be a tourist place too. Clicked some customary pictures, and had a cup of sea buckthorn tea (must try), as my other friends were busy writing postcards to their families. All was well till here, the fun element fizzled out when we had to walk up a steep climb to reach our traveller, it’s an experience to remember.


Fourth stop, Himalayan Nectar Kitchen, Komic
We stopped here for our lunch break, this is believed to be the highest restaurant in the world at the height of 15050 ft. The food was amazing here, tried some momos, Thupka and a cup of tea and It was worth it. A special thanks to all the 3 captains, who ensured, our orders were made on time and delivered to the right person. Indeed an uphill task, to manage around 40 different orders. Cheers to the three of you !!


Fifth stop, The Langza Buddha Statue
The surreal experience can leave any traveller spellbound at this place. The gigantic golden Buddha statue is situated at the height of 14500ft and guards the little and serene hamlet of Langza. It’s a must-visit place, and be sure to be welcomed by fierce cold winds. The interesting thing is that Langza and most of Spiti valley were under the ancient Tethys sea many millions of years ago and it was home to ancient marine flora and fauna. Today, the Tethys ocean is no more, but the fossils of these ancient marine animals still exist in and around Langza and quite possibly other parts of Spiti valley too, just don't get scammed while buying one.

The Langza Buddha Statue.


The surreal view from the Langza Buddha Statue

Sixth stop, the local market at Kaza
At around 6:30 pm, we were dropped at the local market, and we had good 3 hours to go around and explore the market, some of us went and brought souvenirs and chilled at a café. A small market, but you will find most of the things needed for the trip and also things to take back home.

After a short walk, we reached our camp, had dinner and the daily routine continued.
Later most of us settled near the bonfire, enjoying the clear open sky. In the meanwhile, a lady stood up and delivered an emotional speech on friendship dedicated to her best friend (lady), who was also travelling with us. The showstopper was the performance by one of the team captains, who with his guitar and storytelling skills entertained us, some couples came forward and danced, and after this, we called it a day by midnight.

[kvamshi04]

Day 4, Sightseeing at Spiti Conti.
Woke up at 8:00 am, the previous night the temperature had dipped and the harsh weather had started showing its effects on some of us. Few travellers rested and the remaining ones had breakfast, did some team-building activity and hit the road again.
It was a sunny day and our first stop was Dhankar monastery or Dhankar Gompa.

First stop, Dhankar Monastery
Situated at 12,774 ft, it overlooks the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers, it’s a scenic place. The major concern at this monastery is, that it is sinking due to swift erosion. At the monastery, we were greeted by a Lamaji, who gave us some insights into the Buddhist culture and traditions.


Second stop, Mudh village
Mudh is situated near the boundary of the Pin Valley National Park. In order to reach here, you will have to drive across the Pin Valley National Park and its broken road. This is the place where the Pin Parvati Trek ends. We had our lunch at a restaurant here, overlooking the picturesque landscape of the Mudh village.

The picturesque landscape of the Mudh village.

Final stop, Hanging Bridge @ Tailing
You need a little bit of balance to cross this bridge, with strong cross winds and the river flowing below. One could feel the bridge swaying with the winds, not an experience for the faint-hearted. Once you cross the bridge, you can enjoy the panoramic view of the valley along the river bank. This place offers the best landscapes for shutterbugs. After taking some photos and making some reels we head back to our camp.

The hanging bridge

The landscape

At the camp, we were served hot tea and two travellers from Surat opened their travel bag full of Khakras, It was indeed a memorable tea party. Some travellers played cricket and some of us were discussing anything and everything under the sun. The discussions and storytelling continued till dinner.

After dinner, remember the lady who gave an emotional speech?? She asked all of us to gather and celebrate the bachelorette of her best friend, with a chocolate cake baked in-house by one of the team captains, Cheers !! The celebrations went on past midnight, with everyone dancing and singing.

[kvamshi04]

Day 5, Kaza to Chandratal.
Today we travel towards Chandratal Lake at 14,100ft. The road from Kaza to Lossar is amazing, and you would be spellbound by the amazing views it offers, the changing landscape will keep you engaged throughout your drive.

We reached Losar at around 11:30 am, we were forced to eat something or at least pack our lunch as this is the last point, where we could find food, also we would not get network for the next 24hrs, till we don’t reach Koksar the next day. All of us made calls to our families and some attended their work calls. After a good hours break, we started and on the way, we offered our prayers at the Kunzum Mata temple and moved towards Chandratal lake. Around an hour’s drive from Kunzum pass, we reached the Moonlake camp, our stay for the night.

We freshened up at the moon lake camp and started our drive towards the lake, a steep road with a few hairpin bends takes you to the parking near the lake. This was the assembly point for the entire group, we were briefed again on the rules to be followed near the lake, as it is considered to be auspicious. At the lake, one is welcomed by the gushing cold winds, a calm and very clear lake. The views are surreal; one could just sit there and introspect about a lot of things in life.

A small trek takes you on the banks of the lake, mind you please wear warm clothes and walk slowly as oxygen is scarce here and travellers do report breathlessness and discomfort, luckily none from our group reported it. As a precautionary measure, the organizers did carry an oxygen cylinder.


View at Chandratal Lake

After spending some time near the lake, we walked back to the parking lot and were taken to our camp. At the camp, we were offered tea and cookies. The staff at the Moon lake camp was proactive and took care of all our needs to make it a memorable stay for us.

The Moon lake camp too was amazing, with clean and weatherproof tents, each tent has attached washrooms with plumbing in place but the water is freezing cold. Despite all the odds the food was delicious and was served hot. Hails to the entire team at the Moon lake camp for the wonderful experience. The camp is powered by a generator from 7:00PM to 10:00PM only and none of the camps have any charging points. so do not forget to charge your phone and power bank.

We had our dinner by 9:00 PM. settled down in one of the tents and shared sharing stories, since this was our last night together, we didn't want to leave any stone unturned.

The Moon Lake Camp, Chandratal

Chandratal Lake is one among the only few places in India, from where one can see the milky way galaxy at around 2:00 am, unfortunately, due to rain we were not able to witness the Milkyway galaxy. This was a major letdown for me and for others as well. While I was compiling this, there were reports of snowfall at Chandratal, again we missed it !!

[kvamshi04]

Day 6, Chandertal to Manali and then to Delhi, the final day.
At around 9:00 am we started from Chandertal towards Manali and by 1:00 PM we were in Koksar for lunch. This is where it hit me, that the trip is coming to an end and within a few hours I'll be on my way back home, not the best feeling and things do take time to sink in.

This looks like a seabed, somewhere near Batal.


Departing shot of the road, which took us to Koksar.

We spent a lot of time at Koksar and in a hurry to make it to Manali, we left without our team captain, of course, he joined us in 15mins after hitchhiking on the next traveller at around. By 2:30 PM, we were at the North Portal of the Atal Tunnel.

The North portal was filled with tourists, as we crossed the tunnel, we did inhale some strong vapours from the vehicular exhausts and exited from the Southern Portal, rains welcomed us back to civilization. The traffic was moving at a snail's place till we crossed Solang and the streets were bustling with tourists.

At around 3:30, we were dropped at our hotel for a quick wash and change and we had time till 6:00 PM to go around. After changing, I and another traveller went to Mall road, brought some jams, and fruits and rushed back to the hotel, packed our bags and boarded our bus to Delhi.

Bye-Bye Manali, seen you next year !!

I Bid adieu to our very supportive team captain and all the travellers who choose to stay back at Manali. The overnight bus journey was uneventful and the next day, we were dropped at Delhi by 7:00 AM, all of us bid a final goodbye to each other, and we promised to stay in touch. I became a solo traveller again and continued my journey to Hyderabad.


This trip wouldn't have been an amazing one, without the support from the responsive sales team, who replied at midnight (not anticipated) and encouraged me to take this solo trip. The ever-helpful team captains, who went beyond their call of duty to make this trip a wonderful one for each of us. From waking us to ensuring all of us had dinner, Diamox and ensuring we stay fit and healthy during the trip, you guys have a lot riding on your shoulders and you deliver it without breaking a sweat, hails to the three of you !!! You guys have done a wonderful job !!

And yes, how can I forget my fellow travellers, The Monk, the Lovely Couple, UI/UX Designer, the Marketer, the Architect, the Business Consultant, the Business Analyst, the C.A., Naruto, the friends from Surat and the Skincare Specialist and everyone else.
You guys have been an enjoyable lot to travel with, never felt like a solo traveller thank you for the snacks, dry fruits, intense talks, pictures, reels and of course Mafia on the move, hope to see you all on the next trip !!

The trip was really exciting for me, if given a chance I would do it again and with Wanderon but this time on a motorcycle. On a motorcycle, you are more attuned to the environment and is it more engaging. As an introvert, it is easy to ride a motorcycle the whole day and enjoy the breeze hitting your face, that's something, I can't explain in words !!!

As,a reader if you have reached here. I would like to thank you putting your valuable time and ofcourse a lot of patience!! Thank you members !!

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[Rajat347]

Nice !!
I want to do a same Leh tour ( solo traveller on a group tour ). Any pointers ?