[turboNath]

The tale of Manas National Park in Assam is a spectacular story of recovery from its bloodied past. Starting from the early 1900s when it was used as a hunting ground for the Rajas of Cooch-Bihar & Gauripur to its terrible destruction by insurgents and rampant poaching for nearly two decades, Assam’s Manas National Park had no tigers twenty years ago. The endangered One-horned rhinos & elephants of Manas also met with a similar dire fate in the 90s.

The separatist movement demanding a state for the Bodos(an indigenous community) had slowly wiped off the entire flora and fauna of the park. Due to the unrest, Government officials and forest guards avoided the forest which resulted in large-scale poaching and trafficking of wild animals along the corridor that led to China via Arunachal Pradesh.
In fact the situation was so grim that UNESCO had accredited Manas the dreadful title of ‘World Heritage in Danger' in 1992.

Since the turn of the century, relentless conservation efforts and support from the locals and Government have helped a lot to herald a new dawn for Manas and all the life forms that it sustains.Manas has staged a great comeback in the recent years and we were very much keen to explore it to observe the transformation in person. We heard that large mammals (apart from deer, elephants, water buffaloes, one-horned rhinos, bisons) can be a bit difficult spot but with a keen eye and a good guide, one can expect to find a decent number of birds.

Due to the Omicron wave in January, we had to cancel our trips to Mangalajodi(Odisha) & North Bengal and Manas seemed like a great alternative in the month of February. We booked our tickets and asked our guide, (Rustom ji) to prepare the itinerary with our chosen birds' list. Critically endangered species - Bengal Florican & Golden Langurs were our highest priority and based on that our guide recommended staying close to Bhuyanpara range instead of the popular Bansbari Range.

Our final plan looked somewhat similar to this -

17th March - Early morning Flight from Kolkata to Guwahati. Second half safari

18th & 19th March - Full day Safari

20th March - Early morning safari, drive to Kakoijana and then late evening flight from Guwahati to Kolkata

As the dates drew closer, the wait was becoming unbearable (courtesy - two cancelled trips). Our packing was complete almost a week in advance ! The day finally arrived and two underwing turbofans hurtled us through the blue skies, crossing state borders in a little over one hour.

The airport to hotel transfer was completed in 3 hours (including 30 minutes breakfast break). The roads in Assam were butter smooth and I was sorely missing out on the driving action throughout the entire journey of around 170kms.

We had an early lunch and rested for a bit before meeting and greeting our white Gypsy King which was going to be our chariot for the next three wonderful days.

Day 1 : Second Half Safari

Our plan was to shoot the critically endangered Bengal Florican and thus we were headed towards Kokilabari farm lands bordering the National Park. The Gypsy felt right at home, coasting over the paddy fields as it it were a boat on a river. The vast farm land of Kokilabari hosts a population of 15-20 floricans and is one of the last remaining survival bunkers for this soon to be extinct species and is extremely popular with birders from around the globe. The grasslands on which these birds depend on are disappearing at a rapid pace, pushing them closer to extinction every day. Coupled with habitat loss, they are often poached by the villagers for meat. The Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society trained former poachers to become forest guards around Kokilabari and this has helped in their conservation efforts. Spotting them with binoculars is relatively easy because their black necks poke out from the contrasting brownish paddy field stubs but photographing them is a big, big challenge. They are incredibly shy and they take flight at the slightest disturbance.

Here's the first shot of a male Bengal Florican -

And here's a sequence of shots after a long, long wait of 2.5 hours for slightly clearer pictures.

Seeing these birds in person opened up their connection to our hearts and we felt responsible & guilty at the same time for letting them stay in this extremely vulnerable state. To think that less than 200-300 such individuals exist in our country is a terribly sad thought. Hope it changes soon or else there won't be any left to present to our next generation.

On our way back, we spotted a plethora of raptors including 5 black winged kites, two Short-Eared Owls & one Hen harrier.

A Northern lapwing, a pair of wild jungle fowls, a flock of red wattled lapwings and peacocks rounded up the first session.

We came back to our resort soon after and discussed next day's plan with our guide. Post dinner, we went for night birding and we were gifted with two of my favourite nocturnal raptors - Brown Hawk Owl or Boo-book & Oriental Scops Owl.

[turboNath]

Day 2 : First Half Safari

Manas has 3 primary ranges - Panbari(Western), Bansbari(Central) & Bhuyanapara(Eastern). While Panbari has dense forests with thick foliage, Bhuyanpara has extensive grasslands and Bansbari delights visitors with beautiful rivers, hills & grasslands all thrown in to the mix.
On the second day, our plan was to start early at 5:30am to explore the Bhuyanpara Range and cover some of the rare birds from the grasslands. Nature had other plans for us and soon it started raining heavily. The open top Gypsy was quickly converted into a steaming canvas tent on wheels by the rain covers and visibility for the rear seat passengers was immediately non existent. I quickly draped my camera with a waterproof cover and got mentally prepared to shoot in the rain. Shooting in the rains can be enjoyable since it gives some really nice surprises from the animal kingdom.
As we trudged along, our guide spotted a swamp deer and a water buffalo who preferred to stay hidden behind the vegetation.

The eerie silence of a rain-soaked jungle was broken by the calls of a barking deer.

The light condition was pathetic in the shadows and we struggled to capture some of the birds that had dared to venture out in spite of the rain.

Notable species sighted during the rain included -

Black-tailed Crake, Black-winged Cuckoo shrike, Minivets & Woodpeckers.

A lone barred cuckoo dove provided a great photo opportunity by sitting still for 30 seconds !

We crossed a small stream which seemed to host a rich birdlife including Rosy Pipit, Hodgson’s Redstart, Black Hooded Oriole,
Striated Grassbird and River Lapwing.

As the rains increased in intensity, the cloudy, humid weather along with the haze dampened our spirits. A Great Hornbill and a super rare Jerdon’s Baza resting on a distant tree were the highlights. We had to remain content with record-shots since they were simply too distant for the 500mm reach of our lens.

We reached an anti-poaching camp after two hours and decided to explore the grasslands on foot since the rain had reduced to a light drizzle. Manas allows you to explore the jungle on foot in certain areas (accompanied by forest guards & guides) and this was a completely new experience for us.

Along the path we heard distant calls of Swamp Francolins, Buntings although we couldn’t spot them.

The Black-breasted Parrotbill suddenly made a grand entry into our view finders and we went trigger happy. It is currently listed as a vulnerable species under the IUCN Red List and was one of the most sought after birds for this trip.

A couple of hundred shots later, it was breakfast time and our guide neatly laid out a sparse-yet-delicious breakfast spread on a makeshift table at one of the camps.

Post breakfast the weather improved drastically and the entire jungle seemed to come alive with the tune of ‘Here comes the Sun’ by the Beatles !

We got some great sightings of raptors like Crested Serpent Eagle, Shikra and Oriental Honey Buzzard.

Our great streak continued with two of my favourite babblers joining the party - the Chestnut Capped Babbler & the Striated Babbler. Although their sighting was short lived they gave us ample time to capture multiple poses of the hyperactive birdies!

As our morning session came to an end, we returned back to our resort for a quick lunch before flying out of our cozy nests in pursuit of the winged wonders.

[turboNath]

Day 2 : Second Half Safari

After a great first half, we were charged up for the post lunch session. It started with a bang with a Banded Krait in hibernation mode. Got to click it from extremely close quarters with my phone. It ranks amongst the ‘big fours’ in India along with the Cobra, Russell’s Viper, Saw scaled Viper and the likes.

We then proceeded to a small stream that flowed next to a village dotting the National Park. Here we captured the elusive brown crake, foraging for a quick lunch.

A Darter observed us peacefully from the comfort of a tree branch.

We also caught an interesting member of the Heron family - the Striated Heron.

A little bit further away, we were greeted with an Eurasian Kestrel, a small yet extremely deadly raptor. It was perched on a dead tree trunk bang in the middle of a nearly dried up riverbed.

Thankfully it decided to stay perched for a minute before taking flight and vanishing across the horizon.

Here’s the last image from the ‘Kestrel’ sequence !

The Gypsy expertly navigated through the boulder strewn path and suddenly crossed over into the forest. We then proceeded towards another anti poaching camp located just a kilometre away from the Bhutan border.

Perched at the top of a distant tree, we could make out three tiny collared falconets. They are one of the smallest and deadliest raptors around.

The sun was about to set and it gave us the perfect light to capture some nightjars. We could hear the call of Large tailed and Savannah Nightjars in the distance. But the moment we started following the sound on foot, they took flight instantly.

Finally after trying for half an hour, a beautiful Savanah Nightjar sat still on a rock as if rewarding us for our perseverance. Terribly excited with such a moment, I probably clicked a dozen shots of the bird sitting on his ‘throne’.

As the last rays of the setting sun seemed to bid us adieu, an Asian barred Owlet started calling out in anticipation of a long dark night.

With nightfall, the activity of the nightjars and owls increased ten fold and we found some of them sweeping down infront of our vehicle for a brief stop before flying off again. Here's a large tailed nightjar, waiting a for a hearty meal comprising insects and flying critters !

Nightjars are incredibly beautiful nocturnal birds best known for their cryptic plumage. We were fortunate enough to witness around 5-6 nightjars hovering just above our Gypsy as if nudging us to play along !

I can still vividly remember their distinct calls slicing through an otherwise quiet jungle as we resumed our journey back to base 'camp'. On our way back, we came across a herd of 20+ Indian Gaurs who looked like tall muscular giants against the flashlight. With an extremely low shutter speed , I could only manage to capture one adult from that herd but the entire experience will remain imprinted on my mind for a long long time.

The jungle transforms into a different living and breathing being at night. In every nook and cranny there seems to be a single or multiple pairs of glowing eyes observing us from a safe distance. The sense of adventure and thrill is simply unlike anything else!

[turboNath]

Day 3 : Full Day Safari

Manas had spoiled us crazy with the sheer number of bird species on offer and our expectations were sky high when we finally set off at 5am for exploring the Bansbari Range. For those of you who have been to Corbett, this region will bring back many fond memories. Think of lush green mountains, criss crossing rivers and an extensive grassland and you will start to realize that Manas and Corbett are very similar.

The drive from Bhuyanpara to Bansbari Gate took around 2 hours and as we approached the forest we saw some really amazing resorts and camps up lined up in sequence. Our guide informed us that on weekends sometimes 100+ safari vehicles ply inside the Bansbari Range (Bhuyanpara hosts hardly 3-4 safaris during a similar time window) and the trailing vehicles get caked with dust ! Luckily for us it was Monday and it had rained heavily on the previous day. The jungle was literally ‘clean and green’ and the smell of damp leaves and that fresh air was intoxicating! Our plan was to drive up to Mathanguri Tourist Lodge (situated deep inside the forest) for lunch and look for birds along the way.

As soon as we passed through the gates, the jungle transformed right infront of our eyes. There seemed to be hundreds of birds lurking in each and every branch !

We managed to spot several species in quick succession including Asian Fairy Bluebird, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Crimson Sunbird, Plain Flowerpecker and a Yellow-vented Flowerpecker.

As we drove along the forest path, the jungle started getting a bit more dense and we encountered several rare species like the Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Pale Chinned Flycatcher, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Maroon Oriole etc.

Some of the birds were hiding behind the dense undergrowth and our cameras had a hard time locking focus on them. But then again the joy of seeing a completely new species ('lifer') surpasses the urge to get a decent photograph !

The drive to Mathanguri Tourist Lodge took around 2 hours since we paused at multiple places to fill our memory cards with glee !

We had tried to book that lodge(both upper and lower bungalows) atleast for one night stay but failed miserably since it is always in high demand. This lodge allows you to stay within the jungle and gives you a completely mind blowing experience. Situated right beside the Manas river, the views offered are stunning.

We had our lunch at the canteen adjacent to the upper bungalow and then proceeded to explore the river side a bit. The afternoon sun was bearing down strongly upon us and we didn't expect to find any species. However a pair of Female mergansers and a Plumbeous Water Redstart ensured that we didn't go back empty handed !

Alongwith this, we also captured a White Collared Blackbird and a Blue Rock Thrush foraging near the car parking area.

When we finally climbed back up to the upper bungalow, we heard some disturbance in the branches above. There was a Malayan Giant Squirrel jumping across from one tree to another !

The commotion above seemed to irk a capped langur sitting beneath the tree.

As we proceeded on our afternoon safari, the jungle seemed to come alive after a lunch-time stupor. The peacocks were fiercely calling out and defending their own territories.

We got one of our most anticipated 'lifer' soon in the form of Finn's Weaver.

Many of you might have seen their relatives - Baya Weavers (known for their skill of making intricate nests that hang from the branches) but Finn's Weaver is a rare and endangered species with estimates of around 500 individuals in India.

Our winning streak continued with a distant tree that housed 7 Spot-billed Pelicans. Here's a collage of one individual flying out and back to its nest.

A Lesser adjutant Stork, a Black Stork and a Little pied Flycatcher joined the party soon after.

Meanwhile, a Kingfisher, perched on a nearby branch was busy finishing off a shrimp !

As we drove alongside a vast grassland, A Changeable Hawk Eagle was observing us from a distant tree while an Eurasian Roller decided to challenge our Gypsy to a drag race.

The highlight of the session was one of the main super stars in our target list - the Silver-breasted Broadbill. I had always dreamt about capturing this incredibly cute bird (sitting on a clean perch in broad daylight) but the light condition was anything but ideal when we finally got to spot a flock of 7-8 individuals. Still I pressed the shutter button down to my heart's content and took around hundred shots!

On our drive back to the main gate, we came across a Hoary bellied Squirrel and a Striped Squirrel.

As evening approached, it was time for the big mammals and we spotted a herds of rhinos, elephants and Indian Gaurs.

Bansbari Range had given us a lifetime of memories to cherish and we were going back with our cards full of RAW images to hold on to those memories forever ! But as our Gypsy started on its way back to Bhuyanpara, there was this sad reminder that we only had one more session left before returning back to the grind.

[turboNath]

Day 4: Half Day Safari

On the last day, we had planned a short visit to the Kokilabari Farmland at dawn. Our primary target for the day were Buntings. These rare birds are middle- to long-distance migrants to their wintering grounds in southeast Asia. We got both Chestnut-eared Bunting and Crested Bunting sitting on clean perches. As for Yellow breasted bunting, we had to remain content with a record shot while Little Bunting managed to escape our view finders completely.

The morning sun rays seemed to paint a beautiful warm tone which made the birds look even more beautiful.

The adult male Hen Harrier was an added bonus !

Apart from these birds, we also spotted Common Iora, Greenish Warbler and a Black-throated Thrush.

We had an early breakfast post this session and started to prepare for the long drive that lay ahead of us.

The next destination was the village of Kakoijana, whose transformative story had managed to put a small nondescript village right in the middle of Global Hotspot Map for Critically Endangered Species. Kakoijana remains one of the greatest tales of community conservation efforts in India which changed the fate of Golden Langurs. When the Kakoijana project started, there were around 50 individuals left in the wild. Today the number is 650+ which speaks volumes about the conservation effort that has gone in to ensure that these delicate creatures are not robbed of their last survival land.

The drive from Bhuyanapara to Kakoijana took around 2 hours in a sedately driven Bolero maintaining a steady 70kmph on a flawless tarmac.
It was noon by the time we entered the forest and soon came across this family of Golden Langurs.

I feel blessed to have witnessed their presence in person.

Unfortunately we could not spend much time with them since our flight was scheduled at 7:30pm and the airport was a long drive of around 4 hours from Kakoijana.

On our way back home, we kept on thinking about the incredible experiences that Manas had offered us and the life lessons that it had imparted. It is after all an extremely delicate ecosystem that is threatened by multiple human activities. But then again, some of these human beings have turned into guardians of the forest and are helping to restore the balance in the ecosystem.

I strongly feel that Manas is on a decent path to recovery and the least we can do is to stand by our promise to protect it like true companions of the forest. Only then we can be truly proud of a legacy left behind, a legacy that has managed to transform a bloodied past into something that is evergreen and full of life.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[C300]

Wow..Amazing sightings Turbonath. Thanks for sharing. Manas surely is Birding hotspot. Silver breasted broadbill is such a beautiful bird. Great shot. Which is the best month to visit Manas?

[ABHI_1512]

That’s an express and incredible travelogue of a place close to my heart. Manas often tends to lose out to more illustrious Kaziranga in terms of visitors. The rich biodiversity that Manas offers is almost comparable to the very best. The bloodied past, as you have rightly mentioned, is well behind now and I sincerely hope people return to see Manas.

Manas is the first national park that I visited in my childhood and the memories are well entrenched. Many log huts have come up as I hear and intend to be back to experience soon. The Paanbari gate is little offbeat but I now know that Bhuyanpara gate is the one to target if one wants to see the jewels of Manas.

Thank you for penning down this wonderful experience, the sheer number of birds is simply astounding. The raptors in full attention and the crimson sunbird pictures are my favourite. Your night safari resulted in some incredible pictures and I am yet to fathom that you pointed a mobile camera at a viper !!!

Wonderful read, thank you again and hoping to read your next adventure pretty soon.

Regards.

[robimahanta]

Awesome variety of birds. Great description and details too. Thanks a lot for sharing. Looking forward to visiting Manas sometime. I will ping you for further details.

[Gorkey]

I am from Assam and still havent visited there yet. Such a shame. Planning to visit after seeing your photos. Amazing photos.

[sukhbirST]

Thanks for the lovely photographs and adding Manas to must visit list. Can you please share approx cost and of course the camera details. Some of the animals/birds I saw for the first time.

[callvvijay]

Fantastic photographs and great details about each one of them. Thank you.

Further, personally for me, this post could not have come at a more appropriate time than this - as I'm planning a Assam-Manas-Shillong visit soon.

Can you tell the place you stayed at Manas? Thanks!

[Vik0728]

Originally Posted by turboNath

Attachment 2282232

The tale of Manas National Park in Assam is a spectacular story of recovery from its bloodied past.

Brilliant clicks there turboNath. You have got an amateur birder's dream collection with this one trip of yours

I honestly did not know that some of the birds (like the broadbill) even existed in India. This is one of the best birding/wildlife photo collection I have seen in the recent past.

Congratulations and wish you many more such clickys!!

[ashishsGT]

Hello turboNath,

Amazing clicks of these lovely feathered creatures and comprehensive write-up too!
It is indeed truly devastating to see the bird population dwindling at such a rapid pace in the last decade.

Originally Posted by turboNath

Post dinner, we went for night birding and we were gifted with two of my favourite nocturnal raptors - Brown Hawk Owl or Boo-book & Oriental Scops Owl.

For all the night shots, did you use a continuous light source or was it a speed light mounted atop your camera?

Looking forward to many more such posts!

Cheers,
Ashish

[haisaikat]

Awesome TL and rated 5 stars, amazed me with your patience as always in portraying the beauty of the shy inhabitants of nature. I never thought a wild fowl will look this beautiful. Majority of the Dooars region lie in Assam and I assume the more we go towards west the beautiful it becomes. After your venture, adding this place to my must visit list for future.

Curious, which hotel were you put up on Day 1? The cottages look awesome.

Eagerly waiting for the flying XUV TL.