[haisaikat]

Prologue
Last December we went on a brief weekend tour of Sundarbans. This had been on our radar since 2020 but due to shutdowns owing to pandemic or our personal situation during the pandemic the trip did not materialize. December 2021 brought us the perfect timing and winter is also the best time to visit this area.

Planning
We explored multiple options during planning of this trip, including the example of a group of friends who happened to stay at the West Bengal Government Tourism Resort and being a group of 3 families they rented a launch boat exclusively for the river and forest tour. This is by far the most desired option unless someone wishes to stay overnight in such launch boats but requires like minded companions to make up the group.

Otherwise most of the hotels in this area offer packaged plans for 3 nights and 2 days including pickup and drop to a common point within Kolkata city limit. Some of the better options to stay including the newly opened Sonar Bangla are all on islands that require one to park their car at some place and take a boat / ferry to reach their hotel / resort. This was a big no for us and eventually in search for a decent stay with car parking we found Royal Sundarban Wild Resort at Jhorkhali. They were offering a similar package, with sight seeing, stay, fooding combined plan and we were impressed by their reviews, hygiene and pandemic safety protocols and decided to go for it.

We usually do not prefer packaged tours as they do not offer flexibility and everything needs to follow a routine yet for this one instance we made an exception. This is because not every place that we need to visit here can be done in our car including the river cruise ride that involves planning which we did not wish to handle by ourselves, we wanted this to be a relaxed outing.

There are other options of course, like West Bengal Tourism offers package tours in launch boats having stay options or even some private cruise operators like Vivada Cruise has a Kolkata to Kolkata cruise based Sundarban touring option.

Day 1: 10 Dec 2021 - Kolkata to Jhorkhali

Route: Kolkata -> Ruby Hospital Crossing -> EM bypass -> Kamalgazi -> Baruipur bypass road -> Baruipur - Canning road-> Basanti -> Jhorkhali
Distance: 90 Km
Time Taken: 3.5 hours including breaks
Road Conditions: 50% of this route involves passing through congested areas including markets so drive with caution and majority is single lane road. Road tarmac is mostly good except the Basanti to Lashkarpur stretch which is under constructions, there is like no road in some places. The roads from Lashkarpur to Jhorkhali is good but not that wide and has lots of curly turns and passes through villages and hence need to be driven with caution. Good part was everyone gave way to the Innova including some of the temporary police patrol vans.

We ditched the package included Bus pickup from Science City (starting point Esplanade) and started around 9 am in our car. We were asked by the resort to reach before 1 pm and the estimated timings for reaching destination shown by Google Map aligned to that.

Around 9-40 am made a 30 minute halt at Kamdhenu Sweets of Baruipur (we could park the car in front) for breakfast over some mouth watering Radhaballavi / Alurdom and a few varieties of their signature sweets.

Another brief halt was made in Sonakhali for some cash withdrawal since the resort informed they wanted partial cash settlement of their package cost.

Thereafter the road started going through farmlands, huts, ponds on either sides amidst dense green which have signature of the village life around












By 12-40 pm we reached our resort. We settled down in our cottage Puimacha and had a tour around, weather was pleasant










Their bus with the rest of the guests also arrived after some time and they informed us to get to the restaurant early for lunch before it gets crowded.




Lunch was awesome where they gave individual attention to each table of guests. We liked the 4 course fully Bengali style meal including Koi-Bhola.

Post a heavy lunch, we rested for a while in our cottage as there was a planned tour of the Jhorkhali Ghat in the evening.

We left around 4 pm in Toto arranged by the resort and headed for the Jhorkhali Jetty Ghat.


Unfortunately the Jhorkhali Park (Tiger Rescue Center) was temporarily closed due to pandemic (check this before booking the package) where there are rescued tigers and alligators and also a beautiful butterfly garden for witnessing various stages in the life of butterflies. So we headed for the Jetty Ghat, a walk though a narrow market alley before arriving at the Jetty




The sunset hour lit up the horizon beautifully with several launch boats parked and some plying






We stood at the Jetty witnessing the beauty of the setting sun as it gradually descended and color around kept on changing changed












We returned back to the Toto and headed for our resort




Around 6 pm we were back. Weather was slowly becoming colder as we sat in the patio of our cottage enjoying the evening snacks. The entire resort was dimly lit up in artificial lights.




Tried a shot with a el cheapo monocular bought online for this trip. Pardon the out of focus image

Dinner was served by 9-30 pm after which we called it a day.

[haisaikat]

Day 2: 11 Dec 2021 - River Cruise
Route: Resort -> Jhorkhali Jetty -> Dobanki -> Tiger Reserve Forest -> Pirkhali 1 Island -> Pirkhali 2 Island -> Choragazi -> Panchamukhani (5 River Confluence) -> Jharkhali Jetty -> Back to Resort

Rising early morning during our vacation is strictly against our policies (self defined) but we told ourselves that this is a packaged tour and made the exception.

Morning was bright and tea was served in the patio in front of our cottage.


Breakfast was planned to be served on the launch boat so by 8-30 am we headed in the same way in Toto like yesterday towards the Jhorkhali Jetty Ghat. Boarding our designated launch boat was done by 9 am and soon we got started. The usual resort crew also boarded to aid in the hospitality, but they skipped taking a dedicated guide which made the tour a bit dull (check before booking)




We got ourselves a good seat at the upper deck while some preferred to sit at the table inside or on one of the soft couches


While the boat moved slowly moved through the mangrove forest on either sides, breakfast was served on the boat


While he was anxious to spot a tiger in the mangroves . .


. . . this alligator made its appearance, lying absolutely still in the sun


Breakfast was finished and we arrived at Dobanki, headed for the half kilometre long elevated canopy walk though forest


We arrived at the Dobanki Watch Tower, it offered a panoramic view of the jungle around


This lake was just behind the watch tower


A monoscope powered zoom photo of the birds flocking around the lake, pardon the chromatic artefacts introduced


After spending some time we descended from the watch tower and headed to finish the walk


There was a forest office inside (possibly Jungle Camp), we went around it






Finally we came to the exit gate and descended to our boat which was waiting. We did not see any other animals excel deer pug marks at Dobanki


We resumed cruising along the waters


He was more anxious than before, was holding it the wrong way most of the time though


At last spotted this deer as the boat went close by the land




Spotted him too, a big monitor lizard (last animal spotting of the day)


Eventually we halted at the 5 river confluence




We found many similar tourist launch boats were parked at a distance as they were preparing to start serving the lunch on the boat


It was a busy hour, as in batches we completed our lunch, food was again great


We resumed once again post lunch and the sun had started its slow descent towards the horizon


The boat continued moving at a steady pace through Bidyadhari River and we the curious set of passengers kept waiting in the hope of sighting a big cat


Finally we were back at the jetty by 4 pm


. . as he literally pushed us out to board the Totos since he needed to make up for the lost afternoon sleep


One thing was evident, due to proximity of border with Bangladesh, mobile networks performed poorly while out on the water, Jio was hardly having tower there yet better than vodafone or airtel.

Another group of guests arranged for a Barbeque in the lawn

Our evening snacks and lunch was completed on time and with the desired satisfaction and we logged off preparing for the return on the next day. Some decided to have the dinner wrapped in woolens from head to toe while sitting out in the garden under the starry night sky.

Day 3: 12 Dec 2021 - Jhorkhali to Kolkata (return)
The day had only one thing on the agenda, and it was to meet and introduce with the local villages to see their lifestyle, culture and other interesting things. We skipped this activity planned for early morning reinvesting it to our sleep and eventually post breakfast we checkout at around 11-30 am. The resort foil packed lunch for everyone.

During the return, we followed the same road as during the onward journey, in one congested area around Basanti the Innova grazed with a truck while trying to get past it, had to send the car for denting and painting work afterwards. After a lunch halt at Chowman Garia we reached home around 4-30 pm ending our 93 KM drive for the day and bringing an end to our short Sundarban trip.

Epilogue
We did understand that there has to be several more trips made to see the vast expanse of Sundarbans but this was still a good start. We were impressed by the hospitality offered by Royal Sundarban Wild Resort. Area of improvement are their cottage rooms which are small yet just enough for the night with the ambience making up for the shortcomings. Guided tour could have been better. If we are to visit Sundarban again we would look for a different route in the River Cruise itinerary to be able to cover other areas. Spotting the big cat may be a stroke of luck and not guaranteed except at the rescue center but there are many customized options available which allow one to visit areas otherwise uncharted for usual tourists.

With this our travelogue comes to an end. Until next time, stay safe.

[Aditya]

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[Samba]

So this was the reason you missed the Kolkata Team-Bhp picnic in December!

Day two must be memorable! This entire ride on the river is super scenic & thrilling with the excitement of getting a glimpse of the Royal Bengal Tiger!

With my several visits to Sundarban, I have never spotted a tiger, but still the sheer beauty of this place pulls me back.

My most memorable ride on Vidyadhari river was during a heavy downpour. The waves were big and our launch was rolling and pitching! It was damn scary. Managed to take a small video from my phone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBp8vm3txTQ