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Originally Posted by MiKeMo Oh! My,my.I’m speechless. Simple, engaging narrative along with drool worthy photographs. I could identify few of the places I visited : Khardung la, Turtuk , places around Leh, just by looking at your lovely snaps. I wish I would be able to do such trip. Ladakh trip is always a step forward to one more such trip in that part! Hat’s off to you, and all the very best for many more such trips to you @satan! ![Clapping](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/images/smilies/Clapping.gif) |
Thank you!
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Originally Posted by Rocketscience I always want to know how the car performs in such extreme conditions and most travelogues don't talk about the car much but just show off their pictures and their stories, which is fine but those pointers that you added are much appreciated. |
Thank you
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Originally Posted by Rocketscience Also as per my knowledge cars loose around 3% of power every 1000 ft of elevation and at the elevation you took your car to this must have piled up to be a significant amount, how much of a power loss did you notice? |
I am not a technical person but i will answer your question based on my personal past experiences. As per me, the perception of power loss at altitudes is a function of the following variables
1. Road condition (smooth tarmac vs broken stones) that dictates your speed and therefore the gear you drive in and eventually comes down to power delivery of the specific motor
2. Road gradient which dictates whether you can zoom or crawl up an ascent
3. Torque characteristics of your specific motor ie rpm at which max torque is delivered to your wheels
4. Physical condition of your vehicle ie gross weight/overloaded, state of your motor, air filter, tyre pressure, etc
5. Power to weight ratio of your vehicle
6. Finally your own physical state at that point in time
![Big Grin](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
ie how strong or heavy headed you feel at higher altitudes will indeed have a direct bearing on your assessment of how the vehicle is performing
These are just some of my personal experiences. i remember my mpfi gypsy struggling to take off from a parked state on the last few bends at Wari La back in 2011, just because I had idiotically managed to stop at the head of a very steep incline. So this was pure driver error coupled with a lack of low down torque and a short stroke motor of the MPFI gypsy.
Another time i experienced a significant power loss was on More plains whilst returning from Leh in 2016 when my 4.2ltr turbo charged AT LC would not rev to above 2300 rpm nor kickdown. Again a classic case of driver error wherein I had not bothered to clean the completely choked up air filter after driving the vehicle through a 3 hour sand storm between Diskit and Shyok 2 days earlier.
Coming back to your question and the Thar's performance. The highest points we drove up to were Umling La, Foti La and Khardung La in that order. As i have mentioned earlier the approach to both Umling and Foti La is super gradual and very well surfaced. Moreover there was no snow on the road which made the ascent a piece of cake and even before we knew it we were up there. Ascending Khardung was another story as there was packed snow/ice on the road which meant more power would only cause the vehicle to go sideways quicker. So in any case we had to drive with a lot of restraint although the motor was revving to go.. So this was an overview of the road conditions at the highest points.
Coming to the Thar's performance its really hard to fault the fault the auto box as it does a great job of making you look good. We experienced no power loss at any point during the drive as the gearbox was doing its job of ensuring adequate power was going to the wheels. Also to be honest we were just 2 of us with minimal luggage in a relatively light and powerful vehicle. So this physical characteristic of the Petrol Thar read bhp/tonne would definitely play a role here.
One word of caution though from my personal experience driving the Auto Thar on snow. The Auto box allows you to drive in the manual mode(manually shifting gears up n down) by flicking the gear lever towards the driver side. So manually downshifting gears while descending on regular paved and dry roads helps take the pressure off constant braking and importantly prevents overheating of brakes through prolonged usage. However what you do not want to do is downshift or for that matter drive in manual mode when you are in 2wd (ie Rear wheel drive)
on snow/ice as that will likely cause the rear to slide out ever so slightly on a straight but quite sharply if that happens to be around a bend. So simply put, when on snow and descending engage 4wd hi or low, keep your feet off the brake pedal and leave the vehicle in auto
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Originally Posted by Rocketscience It should be somewhat lesser for turbo engines but then again those are electronically actuated turbos which compensate for that to an extent and I don't think many cars come with that. |
Not sure I am qualified enough to respond to your Q so will leave that to some of the experts on the forum