[ABHI_1512]

It’s been a while since we were on the highways. Covid has turned our lives topsy- turvy in many ways and the impact on our lives will remain forever. Having recovered from Covid during the deadly second wave, I have my outlook changed towards life. It was imperative that I took the wheels in order to release some of the pent up sorrows of a phase which I would want to forget in a jiffy. To shrug off the lethargy, we quickly decided for a relaxed rendezvous.

It’s in that direction that we decided to venture off to the hills of Kalimpong during the third weekend of August. The hills have a separate charm during the monsoons, only point of worry was the landslides. Since it was a quick fire decision to visit the hills, we decided not to book anything beforehand and leave it for later since the hills don’t get too much traffic of tourists during the monsoons anyways. Since restrictions regarding Covid are in place already, we also took self test rapid kits along with us as a precaution.

Some pictures to start with :

[ABHI_1512]

Started very late in the night and thanks to the route inputs from fellow BHPians Travelmania and gmhossain, I decided to take the Gurap- Boinchi- Kalna- Krishnagar route to connect to Moregram instead of taking the potholed SH 7. The drive turned out to be very good all throughout except the little stretch from Beldanga to Bahrampur. A little chai break at Nabagram after, started again. Farakka is a bliss these days and so is Sujapur after being four laned completely. Finally stopped for some lunch just before reaching Siliguri at Ghoshpukur BP Ghar Dhaba.

Wonderful State highway with scorching tarmac


Ghoshpukur Ghar Dhaba




After having a sumptuous lunch, we decided to visit Fagu Tea Bungalow since the usual route to Kalimpong through Sevoke was blocked due to landslides. So we had to take another route to reach Kalimpong and this route though longer, is one of the most beautiful roads to drive. This route passes through Damdim- Gorubathan- Phaparkheti- Lava- Algarah before reaching Kalimpong.

Meanwhile, while on the road, we made some calls to a place in Kalimpong aptly named Windsongs. We have stayed in many properties in Kalimpong over the years and somehow never stayed at Windsongs. This time, we thought of staying there and booked a cottage accordingly. The owner was kind enough to provide us a hefty discount on the package.

Since our route was decided, we thought of making a visit to Fagu Tea Bungalow. We have previously stayed at Fagu and since it was en route to Kalimpong, thought of sipping some tea before climbing up the hills. It was raining and there was darkness outside. I am sharing some pictures of the place which were previously taken, just for reference :











This place has a nice vibe and is a recommended stay. In the mean while, it was already past six in the evening when we realised that we still have to climb the hills to reach Kalimpong. We were stopped by police for routine checking near Gorubathan and even they were surprised that we would be climbing the hills in the evening. All they said is to drive carefully since landslides happened the previous day. I have travelled through this route innumerable times but still couldn’t anticipate what was to come later.

As soon as we crossed Gorubathan and started our ascent, traces of fog started appearing every now and then but manageable. Now there is a broken culvert before reaching Chel river and I have driven through it before many times. But then, due to fog and water flowing down, that broken culvert had turned into something else. I had to really dig in to see properly what lay ahead before attempting to cross the side. With no one on the road during that odd hour, it was a gamble I was about to take when a local biker appeared from nowhere and I followed him to cross that tricky area. Landslide had made the side of the culvert extremely slushy and it was the brute force of the machine that helped me cross the stretch.

Nevertheless, it was just the start of an eventful journey. As we crossed the Chel river and started our ascent towards Phaparkheti, the intensity of fog increased manyfold and it was the median line of the road that guided me. Visibility was greatly reduced and the fog became more and more dense. Now we always knew that Lava is an extremely foggy place even during the summers, but nothing could prepare us for something like that. Progress was very slow and add to the fact that we had to also contend with many landslides which were just about cleared to let one vehicle pass.

Broken trees which blocked the road after the landslides and cut into half, just as much to let a vehicle pass, big boulders and gurgling water falling from the hills and dense fog, the whole cocktail was an experience I wouldn’t forget. In the meanwhile, the owner of Windsongs also called and took the dinner order in the midst of our fight against the fog.

Sharing a video here :

https://youtu.be/OzqyODtI0m0

Reaching Lava was only the halfway through and the thought of staying at Lava itself did cross my mind at one point but I somehow carried on. It was after Lava that the fog was at its worst. Just following the median line in dense fog, I somehow missed the turn towards Algarah and reached Pedong instead. With no one to ask around, I stayed put near the BRO/ Army camp(not sure) until one fine bloke guided me towards Kalimpong. It was only near Delo that I finally had some respite from the fog and could reach Windsongs just before midnight. A usual two hour drive turned into a four hour drive just because of the fog.

More drama- the parking at the homestay had to be done in reverse since the car had to be parked on an incline. Somehow, the parking happened and the owner was also equally helpful in making the routine successful. Famished after a rigorous drive, we just had the dinner before going off to sleep.

[ABHI_1512]

The previous night was a roller coaster drive of some proportions. The morning view of the clouds and mist from the room was just the kind of morning that we were looking for. The cottage was strategically located and had the best views of the mountains and river Teesta. It was quite a sight and time just went by looking at the play of the clouds until the call for breakfast came. The table for breakfast itself was set exclusively for the cottage we were staying and what a setting it was

This was the first view we got from the cottage.


The main bungalow of the owners.


View of our cottage




Breakfast setting and what a view it was while gorging on food.


























The place is also one of the oldest nurseries of Kalimpong and has the most varied collection of orchids and cactuses. After our breakfast, we took a round of the entire property and it was wonderful to look at so many exquisite species up close. The property is located on a hill side and is huge. It was also for the first time that we decided to stay put cooped inside the property and enjoy the leisure time.

Have been to Kalimpong so many times over the years and yet, every time the place offers something new to us. Windsongs was a perfect place to spend your time after the horrible phase of the second wave of Covid. The day went by and again, it was time for lunch. A simple lunch of homegrown vegetables and country chicken followed and it never tasted better, what with the incredible setting to satiate our taste buds as well as our hearts.

[ABHI_1512]

In the evening we thought of going to Gompu's for some momos but then we decided to try the momos in the property itself. Windsongs is located in the 10th Mile area of Kalimong and is around 2 miles from the town central. Parking becomes an issue in the evening time and hence staying put in the property itself was a decision well made. The momos tasted wonderful and typical of the taste found in the hillsides. Food is one of the highpoints of any property in Kalimpong and Windsongs was no different. Each dish tasted distinct and sumptuous. Be it, Yuru or Holumba Haven or the even the wonderful Elgin silver oaks, food is one of the highlights of the stay.

Our appetite and digestive system somehow improves magically in the hills One can spend time just sitting in the open area and which has the provision of a fireplace as well. A soothing music plays out throughout the open area and the place also has sensor based lights along the pathways.


















Time flies by in the hills and since the folks sleep early, it was an early dinner for us as well. A simple dinner of mixed chowmein and chicken with vegetables arrived and we gorged on. A fantastic dessert of Cookie crumble custard was the highlight of the dinner. It's delightful to find such delicacies when you least expect such wonders.

[ABHI_1512]

It was time for departure the next morning after two nights of bliss. Such was our state of mind that we decided to stay somewhere in Dooars for one more day before returning back to base. But before that, a king's breakfast had to be devoured first. The english breakfast consisted of locally sourced chicken sausages and tasted yumm. Missus opted for the usual Indian breakfast consisting of Pooris and homegrown vegetable curry. Tea was served in typical tea pot which looked good. The owner also added some pancakes with maple syrup as compliments.

This was the morning view from the cottage


The breakfast setting will remain etched in our memories forever. Such was the joy of sitting under the open skies and hanging flowers.






Another round of walking around the property happened and thankfully, it didn't rain during our stay although it did rain continuously a day before our arrival. We bid our wonderful hosts good bye and promised to return again soon. The staff was extremely courteous and it showed in their behavior. They were following all the covid protocols and it was reassuring to us as well although the hills are not that much affected compared to our cities.











Wandering around one more time, clicked some more pictures and still couldn’t get enough of the place.



















This was how the parked car looked on the incline

[ABHI_1512]

After bidding adieu to our wonderful hosts at Windsongs, we started for Dooars along the same route of Gorubathan and Damdim. We didn't have any fixed plan as such and started leisurely around 11 in the morning. The route was enjoyable with foggy surroundings creating a mystical aura all around. The same route seemed so crushingly beautiful while it turned out to be one of the most enthralling drives ever going up few days back !! Adding a video link of the wonderful route :

https://youtu.be/05yOungOrB0

Stopped for some pictures en route, since many streams from the hills were full of rainwater.







Since it was raining on and off, we had to stop somewhere between Algarah and Lava because of landslide clearance. BRO guys were very proactive in keeping the route clear and after waiting for around 20 minutes, we got the go ahead. I was wondering if this happened during the drive in the night few days back, I would have been stranded in the dead of night.



After crossing Lava, visibility improved great deal and we could finally reach Malbazar around 2.30 in the afternoon. Had lunch at a small but lovely eatery which served us nice comfort Bengali staple of rice and fish. It was time to decide our stop for the night and we thought of trying for Sinclairs Chalsa. Unfortunately, they were sold out for the night and so called up Murti Tourist Lodge for availability. After getting a resounding yes from the manager, we moved towards Murti from Chalsa. This route from Chalsa to Gorumara is one of the most pristine road passing through the jungles. The trees were lush green and the surface was fantastic.













Reached Murti Tourist Lodge once again after 2016 and the place looked more pristine then before. After quick check in to the cottage, we decided to take a walk along the gurgling Murti river which is just beside the property. Missus posed happily while literally on the Murti river









Some hours spent at the Murti river bed and after that we walked through the sprawling area of the tourist lodge. Back in 2017, when it was newly opened, the beautification was in it's nascent stage and which has now turned up real good. The amenities here are top notch and the cottages have been maintained real well. The dining area has been revamped completely and it is indeed praiseworthy for a government property. Here is the main portion and the dining area pictures:





The area is huge and the beautification done is praiseworthy. Some pictures from the sprawling property :












If anyone is wondering why a picture of Kartoos has been clicked, well that’s the name of one of the cottages

[ABHI_1512]

The dinner was taken early around 9 since it was to be an early morning drive back to Calcutta. As soon as we finished our dinner, it started raining. Later on that night, we got to know that Orange alert has been sounded for heavy rainfall across North Bengal. Not worrying too much into the whole thing, we went off to sleep.

Early morning we woke up to lightening thunder and heavy rainfall. It was raining cats and dogs, so much so that we couldn’t even think of going to the car which was parked some 50 metres from the cottage. We didn’t have any option but to wait out time. We were to leave Murti by around 6 in the morning but by the time we started, it was 8 in the morning. We skipped the complementary breakfast so as to make up for time. Expected showers along the way too, so it was prudent to make up as much ground as possible.

One last rain drop picture of Murti


The rain soaked NH 31 was a delight to drive and I pushed within the acceptable limits. Forests just come alive during the monsoons. The lush green cover makes everything around so fresh and vivid.






And then as we approached Sevoke, magic happened. A little glimpse of Coronation Bridge made us curious and the nearer we went, we could see that most has engulfed the Teesta river below. Parked the car at a vantage point and got down to have the full view. What we saw of the Coronation bridge is unlike what we have ever seen it. The whole bridge was just visible amidst clouds and mist. Teesta was flowing with all its might too and it was a view which will remain with us forever. Have a look :




After spending some time looking at the marvel, we started again and were cruising through the magnificent Sevoke road towards Siliguri. Roads were empty at the early hours and we just passed Siliguri in a jiffy.



Took our breakfast break at Ghoshpukur BP Dhaba and it didn’t take more than 20 minutes. Took Islampur bypass and was soon passing the Domohona stretch.



Here is a dashcam footage of the chasing rains part

https://youtu.be/4OIb-lCg1zo

And then it started raining as soon as we left Raigunj. It was like, we were chasing the rains. We drove in continuos rain till Malda and that is where we took our lunch at IOC Jubilee Dhaba. Pardesi Dhaba is not what it used to be once and has gone down in quality. Jubilee Dhaba was a nice experience and hope they maintain the place. Took the same route to Calcutta while returning and I was back at home in time for the dinner. It was a near perfect drive back home despite some heavy rainfall along the way.





That it from us folks, this travel was special in many ways and I am glad that I could make the trip after recovering from the dreaded virus. I hope you all are doing okay and slowly getting up the allay. Till the next time, stay safe and stay well and yes, drive safe.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

What we saw of the Coronation bridge is unlike what we have ever seen it. The whole bridge was just visible amidst clouds and mist. Teesta was flowing with all its might too and it was a view which will remain with us forever

What a trip, and what stunning pics. Great that you could take this break, @ABHI_1512. It is said that any report, lecture, talk should have a great beginning and a great ending. Your thread conforms to this guideline to the T.

I loved pictures of the Coronation Bridge with the woods and mist providing the perfect backdrop. The 51 second video of you driving through the misty woods was another high point. Last, but not the least - the bathroom showcased in post #5 was actually "a room with a view" !

[haisaikat]

Another superb account of Bahon conquering North Bengal, once again, during the monsoon, surprised how soon you came up with this detailed TL.

Best part of your trips are are always adventure, discovering new places to go, some unplanned ventures which turn out to be good gambles (never happens for me) and of course beautiful captures along. This one is no different. However that night drive among the foggy curves was indeed scary. I did envy that breakfast table view in Windsong.

Enjoyed reading it thoroughly, I do see some parts are left out intentionally in the interest of forum rules .

Rated 5 star

[Sheel]

Thanks for sharing the awesome travelogue of hills. Loved it.

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Ghoshpukur Ghar Dhaba

If I am not mistaken, this picture appears to be of Dalkola [Kanki] BPCL outlet, a bit after the Surjapur Toll.

[PapaBravo]

Superb Travelogue Abhi Da. The trip looks a lot of fun. I had once faced conditions similar to yours when going up Pankhabari 5 years back (as you would know the condition wasn't too great then) at 8.30-9 at the night. Rain & fog all the way till Kurseong.

Will try the Boinchi Kalna route next time. Also, Windsongs has been getting our attention on AirBnB for sometime now. Will give it a try in our next trip.

Cheers,
Pawan

[tacho9000]

Another wonderful and beautifully written and strewn with pictures travelogue. Just the way we have come to expect from you dada. BTW you've turned 15years younger since our last OTR after getting shaved And the Fitz and The Tantrums running in the background on any drive will keep you awakened and cheered up all throughout the trip. Hope to see more dada.

Regards,
Subhra

[samee_arian]

Lovely travelogue. Felt as if I am living your experience in that place. I am sure it must have been surreal as your words only captured some of the moments. Lovely writing and nice and simple photography.

I have only heard about beauty of the east of India and North east. Though this was just a glimpse, I am sure it is going to be a great experience whenever by GODs mercy I get to visit that part of India.

Thank you for sharing your experience.

[Tuisha110HP]

Wonderful travelogue Abhi_1512. I visited Kalimpong for some hours (My inlaws stays in Bagdogra) during August itself and drive was phenomenal. Now after viewing your pics, I regret no staying there. Not hijacking your thread, here are a couple of pics from the drive.