[PointZero]

Note: The trip was done almost 2 and 1/2 years back and I was still not getting time to complete the blog. Finally my wife (Shikha) manage some time to complete it. Thanks to her for the support which allow the trip to get a page in Team-Bhp.


From the 1st day of traveling Himalayan, there is hardly a single day I don’t remember Kanchenjunga. It is not only because of the beauty of the range, it is the nearest range from Kolkata and it's untouchable too. Probably the best view of Kanchenjunga is from Sandakphu and Phalut. As we do not have any 4WD vehicle and the road is strictly 4WD terrain, the plan was little different from a regular trip. We planned to reach Tonglu or Tumling in our Bolero. And from there we will be doing a trek to Sandakphu and Phalut. And that way we will get a little chance to drive on the terrific road and at the same time the perfect view of sleeping Budhha.

Glimpse

To be continued ...

[PointZero]

Day 01: Kolkata to Siliguri

With the least planning and packing, I was ready. Suffered from fever and acute dehydration last night but my husband denied leaving me at home and hung me along with him.

Laid back in the back seat of Lazy Turtle and in the front seat Tutai had a photographer friend, Santanu Desai. Santanu Da is a bird lover and always tries to capture different bird’s moments in his camera.

Santanu da had a rough stretch of the itinerary but no targets or time settings. I needed a good sleep to recover so I started late at 6 am on 12th April. The roads were good and there were no major jams to mention. As a surprise, even Farakka Bridge had no wait time. Intoxicated with the dose of paracetamol and fatigue, I slept for most of the part of the journey till Siliguri.

Sojourn of the day was a familiar hotel in Siliguri with a treat to my pale taste buds at Khana Khazana.

Day 1: Siliguri to Tumling:

Next morning it was expected to leave by 5 am. Santanu Da was ready but we were dead asleep and woke up at 5 am after he knocked at our door. By the time I got down it was already 6 am. Meanwhile the formalities of payments were completed and bags were dumped in the car. The city was still asleep and the wind was cold. The route to Manebhanjan was via Mirik- Sukhia Pohkri. Mirik road is a smooth tar road. We halted for breakfast a few kms away from the Mirik tourist agonies to absorb the humming of birds. Santanu Da’s desire to find some rare birds kept on ballooning and he stood patiently at the terrace of a restaurant-cum home waiting to see one. His camera was ready with the shatter and F settings to capture the flying celebrity.

We reached Manebhanjan by 11 am. Manebhanjan (or Mane Bhanjyang) is a small mountain township located about 26kms from Darjeeling, 92kms from Siliguri, and on the border of India and Nepal at an altitude of 7,054 ft (2,150 m). Bhanjayang in Nepali means Junction, and Mane stands for Buddhist Stupas. So the name Manebhanjan means the junction of Stupas. This is the place from where the popular Sandakphu Trek begins. The office of the forest department that issues permits to Singalila National Park is located towards the end of Manebhanjan Township and shortly before the uphill road starts. Permits are required by all going towards Sandakphu.

Random Snaps on Mirik Road


Simana ( India-Nepal border )

The car was stalled beside the uphill road and Tutai (PointZero) went in to talk to the officers. The Singalila Land Rover Association allows only their vehicles to ply along the Sandakphu route, although one can take his personal 4-wheel-drive vehicle too (with permission from the association). Ours was a two wheel drive vehicle and thus we had no endeavor to tread to Sandakphu.

Tutai and Santanu Da were advised by the officers to contact the Land Rover Association to provide a permit till Tumling. After an hour-long conversation, the association people were unable to get their point so we just had the permit from the forest department and went ahead on our own risk. Mark my words it was risky but then Tutai’s faith in his machine did all the magic. At sharp turns the creaking sound of the tyre made us go numb.

https://youtu.be/bqFCfoj3E3A

Road to Tumling #1

https://youtu.be/CImk-48_Nfs

Road to Tumling #2

https://youtu.be/3wIbn6AH9F4

Road to Tumling #3

https://youtu.be/1Wt1hKLMN2U

Road to Tumling #4

Tumling is at a distance of about 13 kms from Manebhanjan. The road from Manebhanjan all the way up to Gairibas has been converted to concrete roads. The picturesque trail of the valleys covered with vibrant colored rhododendrons continued as we elapsed through Chitre to Meghma via Lamay Dhura. We left the Chitre monastery for the returning day. Above Meghma, the clouds seemed to yield way to Tonglu. Tonglu is actually one of the peaks of Singalila range and located at an altitude of 10,130ft. Earlier in the 1800s this place was part of Sikkim and known as Mount Tonglo. The GTA (Gorkha Territorial Administration) lodge was fully booked, so we had to descend to Tumling. The weather was inimical to our interest resulting in hindrance to any clear view of Kanchenjunga from Tonglu view point. Right at the center of Tumling, there is a lovely view point which is more like an open field. From the edge of this area you get magnificent views of the Kanchenjunga snow peaks.

Random Snaps on the way to Tumling

On the far left is the Sandakphu peak. There is a signboard here pointing towards the Singalila National Park ahead. Entry to the park is about 1 km from Tumling. Our home-stay was in an apt location away from the normal halting place of the private vehicles. As we reached it started pouring heavily, decreasing the temperature. No one had the spirit to touch the cold water kept in the bathrooms to wash hands. Somehow we had to because it was time to have noodles for lunch at around 2 pm. Tutai and Shantanu Da went in and out several times to capture a glimpse of the peaks but the weather fooled them every time they went out. The prank continued till evening but Kanchenjunga refused to show up. It started raining cats and dogs at night. We wished to have a clear sky the next day hearing the sound of the rain pelting on the tin roof top tucked up in our bed.

Our Stay at Tumling














Whatever view we got from our stay at Tumling for the day

https://youtu.be/KlwBXYnNyH4

Tumling 360 degree pan

[PointZero]

Day 2: Tumling to Chatakpur:

Right before the crack of dawn, we had been peeping out of the window but to our dismay there was no twilight to glitter the crown of Kanchenjunga. Post sunrise Kanchenjunga appeared for a while in pale white color masked by the fluffy clouds getting condensed against its snow. All peaks drenched with white snow proofing the heavy snowfall there last night. Everest denied showing its face standing as a guardian to the city below. The chill cold gusty winds made the morning romantic but we missed the glowing sky and the bright color of Rhododendron in the vicinity of the home-stay. It was not enough last night and the rain continued from morning again. We completed our breakfast and packed up as staying or moving forward would give no more picturesque views.

Next Day Morning at Tumling






Tonglu Lake


Same Location Next Year








Some random picture while returning






Chitrey monastery while returning

The weather did not allow us for the trek to Paradise and we step back from the halfway.

https://youtu.be/ioB6WveBiYM

Returning from Tonglu

Next we went towards our utmost favorite place Darjeeling. Driving downhill on such a steep stretch was not an easy task and required precise calculation of the turning radius and the angle to maintain track on such hairpin bends. From Manebhanjan it was a hurdle free drive of 2 hours to reach the city of Darjeeling. The hotel cost at Darjeeling was pinching our pockets and there were less choices also. It seems many tourists have put up at this hill station for the day.

To be continued ...

[PointZero]

Day 2 continued ...

By 11 am with certain phone calls and google search, Shantanu Da came up with the name of a the place “Chatakpur”. First time for all of us, all agreed to get into the exploration mode. Google map showed it just 2 hrs drive but there was a twist to it. The owner of the Hamro House informed us that the road via Dilaram (a small village on Hill Cart Road) was under construction and hence we had to go via Sonada. We were already somewhere near Kurseong and had to drive back towards Darjeeling again. Lost an hour there and then drove to Sonada via Rambi, then Mongpu and Jorebunglow. From Sonada, I had to go upwards to Chatakpur. The drive was long now and there was nothing shortcut to alleviate the pain.

The last several kilometers was a boulder road and only vehicles like Sumo, jeep, Bolero etc with good ground clearance can negotiate that. Also the last stretch of the road passed through jungles. If you are not sure to take your vehicle up on the boulder roads, you can also park it down at the forest office parking lot. If you want a place close to nature, Chatakpur is the destination to give a try. It had been drizzling the whole day and we had no idea what to do. After lunch just when the rain took a break, we broke out to walk up to the view point.

Random Picture at Chatakpur

https://youtu.be/sqlcNUZNUaw

The Rain Continued at Chatakpur

It is the most familiar picture you will see when you google Chatakpur. Chatakpur is one such small eco-friendly village within the Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary in Darjeeling District, West Bengal. This pristine village is bounded by the Kanchenjunga Mountain Range in the North and the river gorge Relly Khola in the south. If you walk to the view tower, you can match each and every word I have said. This village used to be a timber den and people used to rampantly smuggle out the timbers. To save the forest, the forest department remodelled it to an eco tourism place where the villagers are involved to promote tourism as caretaker of the eco huts and develop an alternate source of living. If the sky would have been clear, we would have experienced a spectacular view of the imposing mountain range of Kanchenjunga standing high and blessing the overwhelming lush green forest in a quiet thinly populated village. We also walked down the forest for a few meters maybe Shantanu Da was in search of Blue Magpie, Bulbul, Verditer, Flycatcher, Pipit, Long tail Shrike, Warbler, Prinia and a lot more which are residents of this forest. The gusty moist winds promised more pouring by night and this happened. With nothing much to do, we enjoyed pakoras and tea in this cold weather and went off to sleep early after dinner.

Day 3: Chatakpur to Kolkata:



Early in the morning, same as in Tumling, the fluffy clouds refused to move away from Kanchenjunga as she cuddled them close. Tutai and Shantanu Da walked to the view tower to capture some splendid view of the valley along the river. I crept in the bed remorsing that my holidays were over now. Returning home is always heartbreaking. Bidding goodbye, we turned on for the return journey.

Next Day Morning at Chatakpur

On the way back, we had the lady owner with us who would guide us to the shortest route to Sonada there after connecting to Darjeeling. It was a complete off road practice testing the limitations of the lazy turtle. My only concern was of any vehicle coming from the opposite side. Fortunately we were able to pass through the narrow canal-like road shredded below the hanging balcony of a house. Now the highway looks much wider than it actually is, maybe the after effect to the tunnel we just passed through.

https://youtu.be/7_8um-Qfn2k

Chatakpur to Sonada ( Really narrow for a Bolero)




Random Picture from Rohini Road

https://youtu.be/xMWilQbeg60

And the favorite Toy Train

By midnight we were back to Kolkata and the trip came to an end with making new friends and challenging your own strengths.

Thanks for Reading.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by PointZero

To save the forest, the forest department remodelled it to an eco tourism place where the villagers are involved to promote tourism as caretaker of the eco huts and develop an alternate source of living.

Are there any efforts towards reforestation that the Forest Department is doing?

Beautiful place. Its a part of India I have not ventured and don't know when I will.

Thanks for sharing.

[RahulNagaraj]

Amazing read and some equally amazing photos as well. Must have been quite an experience.

Although I haven't been to that part of the country yet, it has always been a place I wanted to visit and explore. Now, looking at the pictures it has motivated me even more.

Thanks for sharing.

[PointZero]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Are there any efforts towards reforestation that the Forest Department is doing?

Beautiful place. Its a part of India I have not ventured and don't know when I will.

Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by RahulNagaraj

Amazing read and some equally amazing photos as well. Must have been quite an experience.

Although I haven't been to that part of the country yet, it has always been a place I wanted to visit and explore. Now, looking at the pictures it has motivated me even more.

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you very much sandeepmohan & RahulNagaraj,

North bengal and Sikkim has many such dynamic places and thankfully they are just 1 night drive away from Kolkata. Try these areas, I am very much sure you will love it.

Are there any efforts towards reforestation that the Forest Department is doing? - Not really, but even we could save whatever we have in North Bengal that itself is a great achievement.

[fawad0222]

Wow!! Beautiful and exciting journey to equally beautiful destination. Photographs were captivating and brought me closest possible to the real place. These are the rides where the real fun and satisfaction of owning a blue blooded suv comes forth. Wish you many more such enthralling adventures.

[PointZero]

In the previous picture there are so many colors. Now let me add some whitewash picture with the travelogue. It can be very much inspiring for you but at the same time the story is frustrating for me .

We ( with some friend ) tried to complete the journey to the Paradise exactly 11 month after the last journey ( March 2020, just before first lock-down ) .

And this time the plan was to reach Sandakphu by trek. Again the journey was incomplete and we returned from halfway (Tumling) because of sudden heavy snowfall and sickness of one of my friend. Looks like the lazy turtle is not allowing me to go beyond Tumling other than a drive option and mark the place as a hard threshold.

Whatever the story is, let's enjoy the snaps from the next trip on the same place.

Our first night stay at Tonglu














Some Random Snaps of Tonglu and Tumbling


My Cousin


Me



Early Morning, Exploring the area and waiting for the next journey




you know


Legend in it's style


Soumil and Me


The team ( me taking picture )


Way to Tumbling


Walking with lots of hope

To be continued.. some video is coming soon

[PointZero]

Many people says there is nothing called "Missed Opportunities", and its probably true everywhere. When we think we missed the opportunity or we could not complete some journey, actually it open another door to explore some unseen.

Same thing happened with us. We missed the beauty of Sandakphu, but if the weather allow us to reach there we could miss the beauty of Tonglu and tumbling. Probably none just plan to explore tonglu so much. The above snaps are just telling the story of our failure journey. And the below video is just another token of happiness offered by the nature.

https://youtu.be/tOBdPkx46Xg

Tonglu Timelapse

Thanks for reading
Point Zero

[PointZero]

Originally Posted by fawad0222

Wow!! Beautiful and exciting journey to equally beautiful destination. Photographs were captivating and brought me closest possible to the real place. These are the rides where the real fun and satisfaction of owning a blue blooded suv comes forth. Wish you many more such enthralling adventures.

Thank youf awad0222,

Originally Posted by RahulNagaraj

Amazing read and some equally amazing photos as well. Must have been quite an experience.

Although I haven't been to that part of the country yet, it has always been a place I wanted to visit and explore. Now, looking at the pictures it has motivated me even more.

Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Are there any efforts towards reforestation that the Forest Department is doing?

Beautiful place. Its a part of India I have not ventured and don't know when I will.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks in advance again for reading the 2nd part of the travelogue ..

[ruzbehxyz]

Dear PointZero,

Excellent travelogue and equally exiting photos. I loved the winter photos as well.
I haven't explored this part of the country much, but will surely plan a trip and include these places. Thanks for sharing.

[ABHI_1512]

Brilliant pictures and an equally enthralling log of events. That Sandakphu route is mesmerising and Tonglu and Tumling are no less beautiful on a clear sunny day. The winter pictures brought out the fun you guys had, thanks for sharing. Wishing you many more interesting travels PointZero,

Regards.

[SVK Rider]

Awesome Travelogue.
Really this is left in the bucket list for long time for me.
Not sure when will be able to visit.
Too good pictures.

[PointZero]

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Brilliant pictures and an equally enthralling log of events. That Sandakphu route is mesmerising and Tonglu and Tumling are no less beautiful on a clear sunny day. The winter pictures brought out the fun you guys had, thanks for sharing. Wishing you many more interesting travels PointZero,

Regards.

Thanks ABHI_1512.

Originally Posted by SVK Rider

Awesome Travelogue.
Really this is left in the bucket list for long time for me.
Not sure when will be able to visit.
Too good pictures.

Thanks SVK Rider.