A pre-pandemic travelogue. Sometimes in life, one must resort to words found in fantasy books. How does then one describe Meghalaya. Rivendell or Imladris from the Lord of the Rings aptly sums it up.
So what makes a land a place? Deep Valleys, Lush Meadows, Meandering Rivers, Thundering Waterfalls, Dark Caves? A culture steeped in myth and folklore? A people to whom family and community are more important than money and success (as we would measure it)? Or humility in every face you see, kindness unasked for?
Meghalaya and by extension our North East States are unique in what they have in store for us. Go off the beaten path and there are worlds within worlds. I'm a slow traveller, I take my time in a place. I often miss many attractions/spots, but again the one's I see make up for them.
In fact the first words I learnt in Khasi were "no bun briew" which translates as "no large crowds". It drew chuckles from my guide 'Bah-sil" which translates to "brother-sil". Its amazing that the language itself adds the word brother before your first name, a far cry from the "eh tu" I hear where I live!
But no fear if you're the typical tourist request your guide to take you the 7-8 regular touristy spots, which are beautiful in their own right, they are also less strenuous and accessible to people. If you do go, please respect the local traditions, be polite and always offer a token of your gratitude, because every person you interact with (outside the cities and towns) will always offer you something. A cup of tea, a meal, a shawl, it could be anything.
If you have the constitution of a horse try the "kwai", its a fermented cut arecanut served with a generous helping of lime. Its very tasty and very addictive and also very very dizziness inducing. I learnt a new phrase after eating it, Its called "bwai Kwai-flying on kwai" or so it translates. in fact the whole village was laughing at me when I got "high" after my first encounter with it. It's also a traditional form of welcoming someone by offering them kwai. So when in Meghalaya Roll with it, swing with it, get into it, because it'll never get boring.
I took a flight to Gauhati and stepped out. Took a sharing taxi with three army jawans on their way to various border posts. You can take your own cab as well negotiate with the numerous drivers waiting right outside the airport. alternatively go to the city bus stand and take the bus. If you're with family please make advance arrangements with a driver/operator from Shillong as they are more likely to drop you to your destination, as opposed to Police Bazaar or the Hospital Area.
As soon as you are on the road, you'll realise you're in for a trip. (all puns intended) because you'll see this
So you can drink before and after, just not while OK?
Soon you'll hit the border post and start climbing hill roads. Where you'll see
a faithful companion in most town centres.
so much colour. skip the plastics and hit the pineapple, it is oh so yummy. PS get a bib it drips and it sticks and it turns you into a baby. PPS-those "Funky" bottles in the bottom row, yes I know you saw them, its honey, pure as snow.
Next comes "bara-pani", "Sach me yaar aapka mind, fully, one track hai", its the Umiam Lake, you can see it on the way to Shillong, but to visit you'll have to detour before climbing.
As is the case with all hill towns that have grown the traffic in Shillong is horrendous. 1 hour for 5 kms, you Bengaluru wallah's, yes you, reading this in traffic, you know what that feels like. You know you're near Shillong cause you're going nowhere.
It's bad, it's stinky, there is a garbage dump somewhere here, and also this jam. They have special diesel in the hills I think, extra smoky. You want a tan, stand next to an exhaust of a truck, you'll be extra crispy.
After a couple of hours, more maybe more, or then some you'll be in Shillong
And for those who love Captain Slow a.k.a James May
OH
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Given the favourable climactic conditions flowers are a plenty, from rare orchids to garden flowers. I'm no expert I don't know my Petunia (wasn't she someone's aunt) from my Daisies (those I remember from You've Got Mail) but they are so Happy!
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The next day I went to Mowphalng. Its a sacred forest maintained by its Khasi Keepers. It's revered and worshipped like a place of worship, not a forest. They say that ancient gods dwell within the grove. You'll find a series of huge stone tables. I was told they are or were used for sacrifices and offerings to the gods. Either way when you step inside you know there is someone watching. The trees talk to each other it feels. Metaphysics aside, if humans had never destroyed the planet, this is probably what unspoilt was
you can drink that water, its sweet and cold. Don't take anything out of the grove though, not even a fallen leaf.
On the other side of the grove is a road, its a big road, must go somewhere. take a left walk uphill and if you have vertigo go back, because I saw this, its steep and I'm told there is a village in the valley. The villages use a steep path to come out somewhere lower down. All I know is that its solitude at its best. mist, rain, silence. Did anyone say Chai?
Most places are owned by the Community, you'll be charged a small fee Rs. 10-50 to enter. The funds are used to keep the place clean and regulate the parking area etc. etc. In my view the fee is worth the paper its written on
I'll give this to everyone entering Nehru Park in Delhi, free of cost. Its like that ad "don't do yahan...do wahan..jhaadi ke peeche
If you are a trekker there are lots of options in Shillong itself. Walk the David Scott Trail, 16 Kms long, used to go to Bangladesh at one point in time apparently. If you are more interested in off beat treks head to Pynursla. From here you can to the living root bridges trek or the the charming Mawryngkhang Trek and hear the story of how U Mawryngkhang became the king of Stones. I told you Folklore.
this is the head of the trail.