[ABHI_1512]

2020 was a year which we all would, perhaps like to forget in a jiffy. Although, the traveler in me still managed to eke out some short travels around the hills of Darjeeling and Kalimpong, small mercies I say. The new year 2021 presented itself in a new light and we made a quick plan to visit Odisha during the Republic day weekend. This was to be the first trip in 2021 and that made us excited as well.

Now, Odisha is not only about Puri and I maintain that the state has enormous potential to be the next tourist hotspot. The bio-diversity that the state has to offer is stupendous. The state government is also actively promoting Odisha Tourism and I must say, they are doing good in that direction. The interior state roads are in a great shape as well and that goes a long way if you want tourists to come.

Earlier, the roads were not that good and one had to take a boat ride to reach Khola and Dangamal which are entry points of Bhitarkanika. In fact, there was a bridge collapse near Chandabali due to which one had to take a detour via Cuttack to reach Khola but it has since been repaired as well. In recent times, the roads have been all repaired and at some places, they are being re-laid completely. So now, one can drive upto Dangamal, right upto the entry gate of Bhitarkanika National Park.

So, armed with some preliminary knowledge and some friends joining as well, we set out for a trip to Bhitarkanika National Park and Sanctuary. The tentative plan was for two nights and three days. There is a new property of Odisha Tourism in Dangamal and which was inaugurated just a month back during December 2020. Accordingly, bookings were made in Aranya Nivas Dangamal- yes, that's the name of the property.

There were plans to visit Gahirmatha and Habilkanthi as well but that went up in smoke pretty quick. Gahirmatha is famous for Olive Ridley Turtles but owing to breeding season, entry to Gahirmatha was closed for tourists. For Habilkathi, entry for tourists was restricted because of some VIP movement and hence we lost the opportunity. One has to visit Habilkathi to enjoy an almost virgin beach. There are only three cottages on the entire beach and the experience is said to be wonderful. There is also a nice beach near Dangamal named Pentha Beach which can be visited if one wants to see and visit a beach.

Some pictures to start the log of the trip. The experiences over the next two days were wonderful and I would hope to jot down some of them here in the write up.

Baahon gleaming in the morning sun on the way to Dangamal


Forest trail inside one block of Bhitarkanika sanctuary


One of the many water creeks beside the river Baitarani


The famous inhabitants of the sanctuary


One of the many varieties of Kingfishers


Egrets enjoying their time

[ABHI_1512]

So, the plan was to leave Calcutta by the evening and subsequently we made all the necessary arrangements. Being a saturday, it was easier since it was a holiday as well. Now the route to Bhitarkanika is simple and straight forward- Calcutta-Kolaghat-Balasore-Bhadrak-Chandabali-Pattamundai-Rajnagar-Khola-Dangmal(Bhitarkanika). There is another route through Jayanagar but that was used earlier and one has to take a boat to reach Dangamal.

The estimated time to reach Bhitarkanika is around 8-9 hours and so we started leisurely at around 11 after a nice dinner at home, just before midnight. We got through empty city roads and crossed the second hoogly bridge in a jiffy. First slowdown happened near the Dhulagarh toll which was chock-a-block with the commercial truck traffic. Stuck still for around 15 minutes before taking a round about just before the toll and crossed without any hiccup.

This is the newly built Majherhat Bridge in Calcutta and which has recently been rebuilt to give respite to us people from Southwest Calcutta.


Second slowdown happened just after the Debra toll and we encountered some dense fog. Navigating slowly and carefully, we took the road towards Belda and Balasore. Dense fog accompanied us on and off before we reached Jaleshwar and took our first chai break. Road conditions were very good to good till then. Once you cross Balasore, the diversions start appearing every now and then. One needs to be little cautious while going through the diversions since some of them have some nasty broken patches.

We reached Bhadrak during early morning and this is where we left NH16 and took SH9 towards Chandabali and Dangamal. Stopped for a small chai break here as well even tested some piping hot puris and subzi. Little chitchat and off we were on the road again. The road was fantastic and the surface was equally good if not excellent. The two lane state highways are the real life lines of the country and it was heartening to see the excellent quality. Odisha state highways are brilliantly maintained and I say this from my experience of using them over the years.

Road signages are ample and are located strategically.


Stopped for breakfast at an obscure looking eatery in Pattamundai and the default morning breakfast in these parts is Upma along with some form of chickpea curry. Some of us opted for the usual puri-subzi while some of them gorged on the upma. Some sweets and chai after, we finally started for our final leg of the onward journey. The roads passed through small towns like Chandabali, Pattamundai and Rajnagar. The last leg after Rajnagar is a meandering drive through many little bridges over the rivers which ultimately merge into Bhitarkanika sanctuary.

Brilliant state highway through Chandabali- Butter smooth roads.


Tree lined interior roads are the hallmark of Odisha.


Baahon posing on an empty road towards Dangamal.


Signages mentioning the Eco retreat en route Dangamal.


Dangamal is around 10kms from Khola-the point where the boats start from the sanctuary to take the river route to reach Bhitarkanika Dangamal jetty. This boat ride is the most interesting part of Bhitarkanika sojourn. Finally we reached Dangamal and Aranya Niwas was omnipresent as soon as you reach. It was quite bizzare to look at the sprawling property when one has to pass through thatched roof houses as you approach the OTDC property.

Prominent signage of Aranya Nivas.


Baahon parked after the overnight drive soaking in the sun.


Baahon along with it’s counterpart from Calcutta.


The property, as I mentioned before was inaugurated just a month back and work was still going on. The rooms were spick and span along with a small balcony at every floor. The property being new has got some teething problems for now since staff were still getting a hang of the things. The staff though were very accommodating and eager to help, despite limitations.

We spent the afternoon roaming around the property after a nice lunch. The property is just around 500 metres from the entry point of Bhitarkanika National Park. We went inside the park after strolling through the village roads and spent some time inside. One needs to take the entry tickets along with camera charges. The park has got the Forest Rest House inside and one can book them for staying as well. The park also has a museum where the different carcasses of crocodiles are also kept. It has also got a breeding center for crocodiles.

Entry point of the park.


We took a stroll around the park and it was a nice walk through. In fact, there is a stretch which passes through mangroves and it was quite eerie to go through since light was fading. The guide with us though was confident of taking us through and was quite energetic in terms of finding us some wildlife. Spending some time there and it ended with us having chai and some snacks at the in house restaurant inside the park.

The pathway inside Bhitarkanika National Park.


Dungston checks in !!


Forest Rest House inside the park.


Cottage inside the park.


Dangamal jetty.


Our walkaway inside the park and in the dark.



The evening went off well and we retired for the night after having our adda session which went on late in the night. The next morning was to be the highlight and accordingly we got in touch with our guide and pre-booked our boat ride from Khola.

[ABHI_1512]

We woke up to a cold morning along with dense fog engulfing the whole area. We were supposed to start for the boat ride at around 7.30 but due to dense fog, we had to delay our start. With time in hand, we decided to take the breakfast and boy, the breakfast was a bummer !! Since we were previously not scheduled to take the breakfast in the hotel, the staff were ill-equipped to provide us a decent breakfast. They came up with some eggs and some half decent upma again. Only saving grace was the tea and it was very good, that good to make up for the disappointing breakfast even.

Started at around 9 from the hotel and it took us around 20 minutes to reach Khola gate. Much to our disappointment, the boat rides had still not commenced due to fog and it was only around 10 that they got started. Parked our vehicles in the empty grounds opposite to the Khola gate and we all hopped on to the boat. The boat charges were around ₹2500 and it was fixed by the forest department only. We paid little extra so that we can have a look at the other side of the river too. And thus started our boat ride from Khola to Dangamal. Our ride also consisted of a jungle trail to see the erstwhile hunting watchtower of King Kanika.

The next five hours were one of the most thrilling time of our lives. Bhitarkanika sanctuary is vast and is famous for salt water crocodiles. Some of the crocodiles were almost more than 100 years of age and are humongous that we got to see along the ride. The sanctuary is also home to varieties of kingfishers and I had the good fortune of clicking some of them too. The bio diversity on offer is incredible and the ride through the mangroves is an experience in itself to remember.

Some pictures from the incredible boat ride:

This boat was first in the queue.


Flying inhabitants of the sanctuary-Asian open bill.


Lovely sight on the other side of the river.


The guys were collecting hyacinth from the surface of the river.


This is how people cross the river along with their vehicles-daily life.


Greater Egret ?


The boat ride is truly incredible in every sense.


Another boat meandering in front.


This one was apparently above 100 years!!


These are some humongous creatures to say the least.


A lovely creek beside the river.


Asian Water Monitor Lizard


The hanging foliage of the trees makes some beautiful pictures.


This one was just behind the Great Egret.


Another humongous one, this one was even bigger!!


The sheer length and size is intimidating-this one was above 5M !!


Spotted deers and the monkeys were feeding on crabs.


The ferocious hunters that they are, makes them one great carnivore


Black capped Kingfisher-Apologies for the bad focus !!


Brown winged Kingfisher


Group of Parakeets.


Black winged Stilt ?


Rows of boat just before starting out.


Bunch of spotted deer, they are wonderful when they look at you


Another boat through the river.


One of the many creeks.


Dangamal Jetty and our stop was just opposite for the jungle trail.


The boat ride reminded me of another similar ride I took some years back in Poovar Island near Trivandrum. Poovar was a great experience over the back waters with equal sightings of various hues of kingfishers and herons. But the challenge of the mighty crocodiles made this boat ride little different and little more exciting for sure.

Just one thing to add here, I would expect the authorities to provide life jackets to the tourists in near future. The country boats are not that confidence inspiring and it would be better if they are little more defensively built and provisions are made that way.

[ABHI_1512]

The second part of the incredible boat ride was the jungle trail inside the Bhitarkanika forest block. This jungle trail leads to the erstwhile hunting grounds of the Kanika King and there is also a shiva temple which, believe it or not, is from the medieval era and is from the 5th century.

The trail is almost 6-7 kms both ways and it takes around three hours to complete the trial. The trail itself is wonderful and passes through mangroves as well. Let the pictures do the talking here :

This jungle trail is sheer beauty in terms of aesthetics.


Getting better.


And better and better


Mangroves jutting out and makes wonderful viewing.


One of the water holes for hunting.


This trail leads to the bird nesting spots.


Nesting birds congregation.


Another set of nesting birds.


The erstwhile watch tower of the king in a dilapidated condition.


This ancient Shiva temple dates back to the 5th century !!


Colors of life


The jungle trail was an exhilarating and tiring experience, both at the same time. Nevertheless, it was our way back to Khola and then we all come back to the hotel. It was a late lunch that day because of the late start to the boat ride and the subsequent events. Managed to click some more pictures while returning to the hotel and it was a satisfying day.

This cutie was sun bathing near Khola.


Adorable postures the kid was making.


Cormorant standing royally.


Egrets and Herons ?


Looks like Herons but not sure though !!

[ABHI_1512]

After the high of the previous day, it was the day of return for us and incidentally, it was the Republic day. The morning was again foggy and it was a late start for all of us. The hotel staff arranged a lovely Republic Day function at the hotel compound replete with flag hosting and some lovely rangoli. One of the senior guest who was staying the night was requested to hoist the flag and it was a wonderful little ceremony. The hotel staff also gave every guest a little sweet pack just like we used to get in school back in the days. It was wonderful little gesture from them and was greatly appreciated by everyone.


Misty morning rekindled some childhood games


Baahon ready for the return journey after getting a nice wash.


Rangoli made by the hotel staff on the occasion of Republic day.


Another one, must say that it was nice to see the flag unfurling in front of our eyes after long.


Such a beautiful moment to see the Flag swaying with the wind.



One thing which stood out from the hotel staff is their eagerness to serve the guests properly. It's another matter that they were short staffed since it was a newly built property and I hope these trivial things get sorted out soon. We all did the breakfast at the hotel itself and soon started our journey back. OTDC will do well to maintain this wonderful property and to see that food options are looked after too. I felt for the service guys since they were only two of them and who were trying every bit to come up with our expectations.

This little thing came to say hi to us in the morning one last time !!


We started at around 10.30 in the morning and plan was to reach Calcutta before midnight. Meanwhile, there was a plan to see the erstwhile palace of the Kanika King in Rajkanika as well. But little did we envisage that being a national holiday, it will closed for the day. We landed up at the gates only to find it closed. Asked around and got to know that the palace also has a functional museum inside. Spent some time photo graphing and then started for Bhadrak. Idea was to take the lunch at Hotel Orion.

Some pictures en route :

This picture was clicked previous evening and its just beside the hotel.The small road takes one to the Bhitarkanika National Park.


This huge Hanuman temple was around Dangamal.


Baahon's counterpart and the better version.


You can't keep Baahon in the shadows for long


Baahon posing in front of the Kanika Palace.


The Palace is being restored and should be magnificent once complete


Baahon posing proudly in front of the montage


Lunch was not upto the mark at Hotel Orion and it was a massive climbdown from their usual standards. There was a banquet going on and the restaurant felt the heat and which in turn affected our lunch. Forgetful lunch it was and rest of the journey was uneventful till Calcutta. We faced two massive jams near the two tolls of Debra and Dhulagarh, forcing us to take the opposite flank of the road and we were able to get out of the mess. A short and wonderful journey came to an end leaving some great memories.

Baahon bidding the final goodbye to Bhitarkanika.


Until my next sojourn, stay well and stay safe, thanks for reading.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[Thermodynamics]

Excellent travelogue, thanks for bringing another gem to the forum. Frames are snappy and sets the mood brilliantly.

Based on my limited knowledge of birds, I think

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Black winged Stilt ?

This is a Red-Wattled Lapwing

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Cormorant standing royally.

This could be a black stork

[haisaikat]

Its rare seeing you ABHI trying out anything less than 1000 KM or the Himalayas, but seeing the pictures I see its worth. You would not believe that I too had plans to do this trail at the same time, only that me being me, it ended up at Mandarmani

We were targeting to book one of those river bank stays. I saw tyre marks in the Jungle trail safari, did you guys walk on foot or are cars allowed?

Nevertheless very detailed guide and will surely help me for future trip planning.

[DriveTrain]

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

Now, Odisha is not only about Puri and I maintain that the state has enormous potential to be the next tourist hotspot. The bio-diversity that the state has to offer is stupendous.

Couldn't agree with you more ! Thanks for sharing this gem . The snaps of the forest trail is awesome ! The size and majesty of those Crocs are to be seen, to be believed ! With a functional Aranya Niwas at the location , some great amenities seem to have been added as well.

[Samba]

Lovely!

You rekindled my memories from 2012! This is a lovely place to visit & your travelogue did full justice to it. Rated 5*.

Sharing few old pics from 2012.















That time we visited Ekakula too. A virgin beach in a remote location, accessible by boat from Dangmal.

My travelogue-
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...ota-etios.html (Kolkata -> Kuldhia -> Bhitarkanika in a Toyota Etios)

[turboNath]

What an amazing travelogue ABHI_1512 ! This brought back so many fond memories from our Bhitarkanika trip back in January 2018. The forest trails look dreamy and mystical as if beckoning the reader towards exploring the hidden gems. The crocs look like mini Godzillas waiting to pounce on unsuspecting citizens !
I remember seeing a particular one with three limbs. Did you get a chance to spot it? Thanks for sharing your journey with us ! Rated it a well deserved 5 stars

Here's one from the archives -

[Mile_Breaker]

Great one Abhi complete with as usual stunning photos of the locality and Baahon ! My better half has been talking about visiting Bhitorkanika for quite some time but it is just not happening. One question I have. Can we book the boat and guide there itself and is there a minimum no of person requirement?

[ABHI_1512]

Originally Posted by Thermodynamics

Excellent travelogue, thanks for bringing another gem to the forum. Frames are snappy and sets the mood brilliantly.

Thanks Thermodynamics for the good words and thanks for the corrections as well. Yes, that is indeed Red Wattled Lapwing and not a Stilt. Also, the second one is a Greater Adjutant Stork as told to me by BHPian turboNath. I will report the post to make the necessary corrections. Glad that you liked the log,

Regards.

Originally Posted by haisaikat

Its rare seeing you ABHI trying out anything less than 1000 KM or the Himalayas, but seeing the pictures I see its worth. You would not believe that I too had plans to do this trail at the same time, only that me being me, it ended up at Mandarmani

We were targeting to book one of those river bank stays. I saw tyre marks in the Jungle trail safari, did you guys walk on foot or are cars allowed?

It was initially the Himalayas only but later on, the plan got altered. Thanks haisaikat for the good words. It would have been wonderful had I bumped into you again after Puri.

Regarding your query, the jungle trail will have to be covered on foot as because that’s an island. The tyre marks that you noticed are of a solitary country made vehicle which carried bricks and cement bags to the construction site at the end of the trail. Three watch towers are being constructed and hence the material.

I am sure you will land at this wonderful place sooner then later. Will be waiting to hear your experience,

Regards.

Originally Posted by DriveTrain

Couldn't agree with you more ! Thanks for sharing this gem . The snaps of the forest trail is awesome ! The size and majesty of those Crocs are to be seen, to be believed ! With a functional Aranya Niwas at the location , some great amenities seem to have been added as well.

Thanks DriveTrain, the forest trail in indeed wonderful and I am sure you will enjoy the place. Aranya Nivas is indeed a nice addition to Dangamal.

Regards.

Originally Posted by Samba

Lovely!

You rekindled my memories from 2012! This is a lovely place to visit & your travelogue did full justice to it. Rated 5*.

That time we visited Ekakula too. A virgin beach in a remote location, accessible by boat from Dangmal.

No log is complete without your addition of pictures Samba. Thanks for your pictures, superlative as they are, it’s indeed satisfying to watch the big crocs in action.

We tried for Ekakula too but the boat services were restricted due to Covid. Thanks for the good words again,

Regards.

Originally Posted by turboNath

What an amazing travelogue ABHI_1512 ! This brought back so many fond memories from our Bhitarkanika trip back in January 2018. The forest trails look dreamy and mystical as if beckoning the reader towards exploring the hidden gems. The crocs look like mini Godzillas waiting to pounce on unsuspecting citizens !
I remember seeing a particular one with three limbs. Did you get a chance to spot it? Thanks for sharing your journey with us ! Rated it a well deserved 5 stars

You have an amazing quality to describe some mundane things to extraordinary lengths. Thanks for the good words turboNath, appreciate you taking time to go through and correct me as well.

I didn’t get to see any three limbed croc though, may be it is waiting for you to visit again !

Originally Posted by Mile_Breaker

Great one Abhi complete with as usual stunning photos of the locality and Baahon ! My better half has been talking about visiting Bhitorkanika for quite some time but it is just not happening. One question I have. Can we book the boat and guide there itself and is there a minimum no of person requirement?

Appreciate the good words Mile_Breaker, I am sure you all will love Bhitarkanika. Regarding your query, yes, you can book the guide and boat there in Dangamal as well as Khola. You can book the entire boat for yourself and there is no minimum requirement as such. Rates are fixed and you can find the rates at both the places. Hope that helps,


Regards.

[Travelmania]

Checked the box as a future travel after going through your detailed and exciting travelogue. Jungle trail photos are very inspiring and you potrayed it in a neat way through your lens.

[arindambasu13]

Lovely pics and good to see the fantastic roads in Odisha, a state that is often neglected among its more celebrated peers. For me, Odisha holds a particularly special place because of the superb sweets that the state has to offer. I am a complete sweet- crazy person and love their chana-poda, pahal rasgulla, chana- goja and the plethora of other fantastic sweets that are made there

Also, great to see the Ecosport twins doing what they do best - cruising along lovely highways to faraway places.