3rd January 2021, 21:24
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| BHPian  Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan    Three distinct flavors from the three destinations. Can you guess them all ? 2020 was an extremely difficult year to survive. The best thing would have been to bid it adieu in the quickest way possible. For us, the only feasible way meant the highway which would hopefully lead us to a new dawn. And thus the planning part began after combing through hundreds of rich informative team bhp threads and talking to friends and family regarding possible destinations, routes etc. With the cold grip of the pandemic still holding on to the nation like a chilly wintry gust, we were a bit skeptical when it came to crossing multiple state borders on land. But the light at the end of the tunnel was a bit too bright and it repeatedly beckoned us towards it. And happily we complied. My parents & I drew up a list of destinations which were yet to be explored by us and the two prominent names that showed up were 1)Jim Corbett National Park & 2)Sattal, Bhimtal & parts of Uttarakhand. Needless to say we were going on wild, wild drive! By then I had almost reread and memorised the two most helpful and brilliant threads on tbhp regarding these two destinations. C300’s beautiful travelogue on the Birds of Sattal and Samba’s stunning Dhikala adventure were bookmarked in my browser ! Thanks to their immense help, I could easily plan out the entire trip down to the last booking. It was early October and we were all set to embark on a drive that would bring us close to the magical yet elusive creatures of the Himalayas ( both four legged and winged ) ! The final plan looked something like this : Into the Wild Drive 2020 : 23rd December : Start from Kolkata at 7pm 24th December : Reach Lucknow/ Hardoi at 7pm [Night stay at Hardoi / Lucknow] 25th December : Depart from Hardoi at 6am. Reach Sattal by 1pm. [Lunch and afternoon birding. Night Stay at Sattal] 26th December : Full day birding and night stay at Sattal 27th December : Early morning birding, breakfast and depart for Ramnagar by 9:30am Jim Corbett Check in on 27th December 2N/3D at dhikala with 4 safaris Check out on 29th 29th December : Check in at Bharathpur Keoladeo National park in the evening 30th December: Birding at KNP and depart for Kolkata post lunch 31st - Reach Kolkata by evening The total driving distance came to be around 3.5k odd kms with the longest hauls being the Kolkata-Hardoi (1110kms) and Bharathpur KNP - Kolkata (1405kms). I will break down the entire travelogue into three major parts dedicated to Sattal, Corbett & KNP because I have fallen a bit too much in love with these three gems and didn’t hesitate to fire away my camera in high speed continuous mode at the slightest chance! Last edited by turboNath : 12th January 2021 at 23:58. |
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8th January 2021, 20:09
| #2 |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan Leg 1 : Birds of a feather flock together ! Although amateurs, we love bird watching and photographing birds in the wild with the help of our trusted field guide book (Birds of the Indian Subcontinent by Carol Inskipp, Richard Grimmett, and Tim Inskipp). We had taken up this beautiful hobby on our trip to Mangalajodi (Odisha) back in 2016 and have enjoyed every single moment spent in the company of our feathered pals ! Fuelled by the beautiful photographs of the rare species in C300’s post, we were harping on Sattal to present us with the opportunity of a lifetime to get a glimpse of the Himalayan avi fauna. And boy did it exceed all our wildest imaginations! The drive finally started at 6:45pm on 23rd December from Kolkata. The Silver Surfer had gone through all the customary checks and was ready for its next adventure! Traffic was sparse on the NH2 and we were constantly reaching our way points before scheduled time. We took a tea stop at Shaktigarh and then continued till Asansol for dinner.  During long drives I always prefer to park at a safe space inside the premises of a brightly lit fuel station. With 240kms behind us already, we sat back and happily munched on the fried rice and chilli chicken prepared by my mother. This would be our 97 grade octane for whatever lay in front of us !  Post Asansol we continued on our journey and stopped for fuel pitstop near Chouparan. I always follow a strict rule of tanking up at the half way point of my fuel gauge. Post refuelling were again looking at a healthy 900+kms range from the mHawk 140 power plant.  Road conditions were good to moderate till Aurangabad and it deteriorated just before Dehri on Sone. As we neared Varanasi at around 6am, we were greeted with small sections of fog which could be easily manoeuvred with the help of brilliantly lit truckers and cautiously maintaining social distance between the car and the trucks! The foggy sections lasted only for a short while and it wasn’t too long before we were at the traffic jam near the Daafi toll plaza.  That moment felt like a scene from the Shawshank Redemption for our XUV as her freedom from the long toll queue materialised in the form of the newly inaugurated Ganga Expressway (Varanasi-Prayagraj) coming up on the other side of the Toll Plaza. The Ganga expressway lasts for around 79kms out of the 121km section in between Varanasi & Prayagraj and is a 6 laned magical stretch. It was a delightful experience to cruise through the two most significant and ancient cities in India ! We stopped for a quick breakfast at Prayagraj.The Dhaba owner was extremely friendly and instantly asked us to take the Kanpur route to Lucknow since we were on the brink of taking a congested route through the busy city.  As the city of Nawabs & Kebabs came up in the horizon, we planned to take a lunch stop near Lucknow. However much to our non vegetarian dismay we found that most of the restaurants and dhabas located in the city outskirts were serving strictly vegetarian meals! Hardoi, our planned night stop was still 100+ kms away and we decided to go ahead with the journey and stop whenever we found the slightest trace of chicken. Our prayers were finally answered in the form of a quaint, desolate dhaba located right beside the highway overlooking a huge mango orchard.  The butter chicken tasted heavenly and we took extra helpings of butter rotis to satiate our hungry hearts (and stomachs) !  The road till Hardoi was a four lane highway and it took us around 1.5 hours to finally arrive at our hotel. We reached our final destination for the night in a little over 22 hours with the actual driving time hovering around 19.5 hours. We went to bed early after gorging on a healthy dose of Tandoori Chicken , Dal Makhani and Tandoori Roti, ready to take on the 290kms that led to our first destination of the trip - Sattal. We woke up at 6am and saw that the weather was completely clear. Hurray! The road from Hardoi to Bareilly is mostly good with a few stretches under construction. The state border is located around 30 kms away from Bareilly where we had stopped for a short breakfast with a Christmas spirit. We celebrated Merry Christmas in true tbhp style with a piece of pastry offering to our trusted steed and continued on our journey.   As the border came closer, we were constantly worrying about the Covid-19 related travel situation. Earlier we heard that a lot of DL registered were getting pulled over randomly for a rapid antigen test at the border. From our limited knowledge about the test procedure, we figured it would at-least take us 2-3 hours to get the report if they decided to conduct a rapid antigen test. That would mean we would lose crucial daylight during our afternoon birding session planned for the same day. At the Uttarakhand police check post, we saw that some cars were indeed parked along the left side. And then right in front of us, a DL registered i20 got stopped but the police personnel seemed to look right past our vehicle. We heaved a sigh of relief and drove past the busy Nainital highway. Our guide in Sattal had shared the hotel address earlier and GMaps showed the way through a narrow ‘Bhimtal Bypass’ road that took us up to the front gate of our hotel. Check in was super smooth with all the Covid-19 related sanitization protocols in place.   Say hi to Sheroo ! We had very little time to unpack since the afternoon birding session was about to start in an hour. The dreams about birding Sattal were about to come true ! For the very first guided birding session we went down to the Chaanfi Riverside. There was a small cut in the road where we parked our car and climbed down to the small river bed, quietly following upon the heels of our guide. This exercise brought us at an eye level with the very first bird on our checklist - the Slaty-backed Forktail, busy foraging along the damp river bed. These are magnificent birds belonging to the old world flycatcher family. Thankfully they are not too shy and even posed for us on a rock !  While we were engrossed in observing the foraging antiques of the forktail, our guide pointed out another bird whose name is way longer than it's actual size! It was a Yellow-bellied fairy fantail flycatcher which was continuously flying back and forth between two branches and showcasing extremely complex acrobatic moves that would surely qualify as 'Olympic Grade' !   Although we have captured Plumbeous water redstart on multiple occasions, we couldn't resist a click when we found a female one temporarily resting on a rock.  As our eyes started adjusting to the beautiful landscape, a distinct call of the Striated Laughingthrush (confirmed by our guide) could be heard from a nearby bush. A few moments later, it emerged onto an open perch and our shutters went off in full speed capturing interesting poses of the majestic bird.  Meanwhile, a Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher decided to stop by and say hello !  Time was ticking away slowly (and the ISO was creeping up) and we still had two main species that we had intended to cover - the Brown Dipper & the Crested Kingfisher. We decided to reach another birding hotspot along the Chaanfi river, 2 kilometres away which had a high probability of hosting these two birds during late afternoon. It didn't take too long to spot the rare Brown Dipper. True to its name, Brown Dippers are literally brown and they dip all day long (well, almost !)  . We were extremely lucky to get a pair of dippers displaying courtship rituals.   A good 10 minutes and 150 shots later, it was time to go in search of the Crested Kingfisher, one of the largest Kingfishers out in the wild. We had earlier seen one flying across the valley and we followed hot on his trail to cross a bridge. In the quest for the crested Kingfisher, we stopped briefly to capture a Grey Bushchat, Cinereous Tit, Blue Whistling Thrush, a pair of Stonechats and a Streaked Laughingthrush which were beautiful in their own distinctive ways.      We were also lucky to spot the Himalayan Rubythroat and a flock Himalayan Bulbuls nearby. [   After that our guide made us walk along an extremely narrow and slippery canal road till we could spot the 'king of good times' resting on a rock. A perfect habitat shot ! But we were observing him from the elevated bank. In order to come to his eye level, we had to crawl underneath a barbed wire fence and then get the perfect low angle shot of his highness. Needless to say, he looked majestic !   By the time we decided to put on the lens cap, it was almost 5:30pm and the setting sun reminded us that it was time to head back to our own nest.  The last capture of the day - Asian Barred Owlet Dinner was a quick affair with all the other guests engaged in animated discussions about the species list and the next day's plan which included a 4 hour hide session in one of the popular private hides in Sattal. This was going to be my first 'hide' experience and let's just say that my excitement was second to that of the Yellow-bellied Fairy Fantail ! Last edited by turboNath : 13th January 2021 at 00:10. |
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9th January 2021, 12:52
| #3 |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan It was 5:30 am when we woke up, almost shivering in the biting cold. I went out to check on our steed and found portions of the roof and the windshield to be frosted. The dashboard was indicating zero degrees outside and the inside of the car felt like an igloo ! The mHawk roared back to life with the very first crank and we were ready to take flight.   With the help of copious amounts of strong ginger tea and biscuits, our insides were brought to operating temperatures and we proceeded to the hide which was thankfully less than 900 meters away. Once inside, we immediately took our positions, rechecked the camera settings and started monitoring the scenery in front of us, sorely wishing for a dedicated 'night mode' to aid our vision (sunrise was still 45 minutes away). What followed in the next four hours should be expressed through pictures alone since words will fall short to describe such a riot of colorful activities ! The drama started with a face off between a male Khalij Pheasant & a Greater Yellow-naped Woodpecker.  As the battle waged on, a gang of excited Red-billed leiothrix joined the bandwagon!  As the morning sun slowly came to life, the active bird count steadily increased and it became very hard to focus on a particular species to the point where they were practically jostling for space on our memory cards ! 4 hours and 1200 images later, it seemed like a daunting task to go over all the pictures and select the 'keepers'. Since scientific names are tough to pronounce and even tougher to memorise, I will include the common names of a few species which will sum up the hide session in a jiffy!  Khalij Pheasant (Male)  White throated Laughingthrush  Rufous-throated partridge  Greater yellow-naped woodpecker  Rusty-cheeked scimitar babbler  Rufous sibia  Khalij Pheasant (Female)   Black-headed jay  Rufous-bellied niltava  Indian white-eye  Spotted laughingthrush  White-throated fantail  Blue-winged minla/siva  Bronzed Drongo The biggest challenge after the hide session was to ensure that the batteries were charged up alongwith multiple backups of the primary memory card. After a brief lunch stop, we were back on the road again, headed towards the Sattal studio. Unlike the private hides, the Sattal studio is open to the public and is situated inside a forest right opposite to the Sattal lake. The quiet forest trail gave us some 'lifers' in the form of Chestnut-headed Tesia,Himalayan black-lored tit, Treecreeper & the spotted Forktail, apart from a few other species which we have already covered in the past.      Day 2 had ticked off most of the species on our checklist (along with the addition of multiple bonuses) ! We only had one early morning birding session left in Sattal before heading towards Jim Corbett National Park. The next morning, we packed up everything and departed for Shyamkhet near Bhowali to try and look for Maroon Oriole and the Goldfinches. Mother Nature showed her mercy yet again and very soon we heard the call of the female Maroon Oriole. And then just as the sun was slowly painting the Eastern sky in a bright orange hue, the male Maroon Oriole decided to sit on an open perch basking under the first rays of the rising sun.   The whole atmosphere comprising mountain mist, an orange sky and that beautiful bird's call reaffirmed my belief in miracles once again.    Post this, the rest of the bird watchers continued their search for the Goldfinch while we bid goodbye to Sattal with a heavy heart and a promise to be back at the slightest chance with a bigger plan spanning Chopta, Mandal & Munsiyari. Ram Nagar was 75 odd kms away and GMaps showed that it would take us a little over 2 hours to reach considering the current traffic situation. As we drove past the mountains and back into the plains, we caught a last glimpse of the towering Himalayas, guarded diligently by a pair of Steppe Eagles near the Kathgodam Railway Station. If only we could stay a little while longer, sigh.  Last edited by turboNath : 13th January 2021 at 00:17. |
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10th January 2021, 22:27
| #4 |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan  Leg 2 : In search of the true 'king' of the jungle We took the Kathgodam-Haldwani-Ramnagar route and it was mostly a one way route with heavy traffic up to Haldwani. Road conditions ranged from average to good and it improved considerably as we neared the boundary of the Jim Corbett National Park. Our agent in Ramnagar had shared the location of a resort (for parking our vehicle) over Whatsapp and we followed it to reach the resort located near Kosi River barrage. Just before entering Ramnagar, a huge flock of Brahminy ducks caught my attention. We stopped for a bit and went out to have a better look ! We could spot hundreds of Brahminy ducks, each perched on top of rocks dotting the river bed. It was truly an incredible moment to behold and will stay with us for a lifetime!   We placed the order for lunch and started segregating our luggage for Corbett. We were going to stay at Sarpduli FRH in the Dhikala Zone for the next two days and we wanted to keep our luggage as light as possible.  Post lunch & the luggage transfer , we climbed onto one of my most favourite vehicles of all time, ready to explore the wilderness that Corbett had promised.  My 'A' and 'B' pillars standing tall The drive from Ramnagar to Dhangari Gate (entry point of the Dhikala Zone) took about half an hour. Our driver Nabiji has been driving around tourists in Jim Corbett for 40 years. Based on his experience he claimed that the probability of tiger sighting shot up astronomically high right past the main gate! I didn't want to miss a single moment and promptly readied all my gear, while my father completed the paperwork at the ticket counter.  10 minutes later as we drove through the rocky jungle terrain, we happily bid adieu to the modern civilization with the last remaining Airtel 4G signal bar vanishing from our mobile phones. The first sighting was a group of wild boars which came in varied shapes and sizes. As we carried on, the jungle started getting even more dense and beautiful. The beautiful red jungle path, occasionally highlighted by sunrays penetrating through the vast canopy above, presented a mystic landscape which seemed to cast a spell on us ! We stopped by Sarpduli FRH to check in and unload our luggage and also discussed recent tiger sightings with the FRH staff. News claimed that 'Paro' was giving regular sightings near the 'Sambhar Road' area. We picked up pace and went flying past the jungle road with our comfort levels precariously resting on the leaf springs of the Gypsy King ! As we neared Dhikala FRH, we got our first taste of the vast grasslands that have been synonymous with the oldest zone of one of the oldest National Parks in India.   Closeup shot of a domesticated elephant at Dhikala Right before taking the road that led to 'Thandi Sarak', we spotted a tusker crossing the path. By the time I asked Nabiji to slow down and come to a halt, the tusker had already crossed over to the other side. I missed a brilliant frame and took a half-hearted one for consolation.  'Thandi Sarak' is one of the most popular roads inside JNP. We caught a glimpse of a peacock mating display and a couple of Scaly bellied Woodpeckers.  As we neared Sambhar Road, we could spot a long line of Gypsies parked right beside the trail. Almost all the passengers were excitedly standing on the Gypsy seats and keenly looking towards the left. We followed their gaze and could spot a huge tiger sitting on a rock on the other side of the Ram Ganga river. I took a long distant habitat shot and waited patiently for some action to unfurl.  Within a couple of minutes, we observed movement along the opposite bank. Another tiger started walking stealthily through the tall grassland and eventually vanished from our peripheral vision.  The first tiger moved a bit and sat upright but still there wasn’t any movement for quite sometime. We then decided to proceed a bit and come back to the same spot later. We had hardly crossed 500 metres when we saw another cluster of 3-4 gypsies parked ahead. There were two tigers right beside the trail, hiding in the bushes !  We could easily distinguish between the male & the female one. At first, the female stood up and started walking past the gypsies looking for a gap to cross the road. By this time some of the gypsies from the previous spot had arrived and they kind of blocked the clear path of the tigress. The annoyance was evident on her face as she crossed over to the other side.    Our hands were shaking in excitement as we went ‘trigger happy’. I took a short glimpse at the picture and lamented since the shots lacked the crisp focus. The tigress was closer than the minimum focus distance for my camera. She was in fact so close that my mom could take a clear video using her mobile phone ! The male tiger followed suit and came out from behind the bushes. From his round ,innocent and curious eyes, we could easily make out that the sub adult was yet to experience life and its trials.    He was clearly annoyed at the fact that the Gypsies were blocking his path and let out a low pitched roar expressing his anger. Two Gypsies immediately backed away clearing his path. Fortunately he was outside of the minimum focusing distance while crossing the road and I felt extremely lucky!  It was almost 5:15pm by the time his tail vanished into the jungle and Nabiji almost flew our Gypsy back on to the main road, determined to reach Sarpduli by 5:30pm. First day at Dhikala had been extremely gratifying and we couldn’t wait to get back for more ! Before going to bed , we decided to start early next day (by 6:30 am) to maximize the chance of sighting. We woke up with a heavy heart since our surroundings were completely veiled by a thick curtain of fog. This didn’t bode well for a tiger sighting as they were unlikely to come out into the open until the sun was up. On top of that there was a slight drizzle as well which further reduced the chance. But on the plus side, the jungle looked eerily beautiful enshrouded by the early morning fog. We drove down Sambhar Road and waited for awhile observing the antics of a pied kingfisher & a black stork.    Then we proceeded to cross the river and eventually reach ‘Pool ka Paar’. We spotted a couple of jackals resting on the dry river bed along with two Sambhar deer and a one-horned spotted deer.    The rest of the morning safari was pretty uneventful but it gave us some time to sit back and enjoy the beautiful landscape of Dhikala.   Last edited by turboNath : 13th January 2021 at 00:26. |
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12th January 2021, 22:52
| #5 |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan  Sarpduli FRH Lunch was a quick affair and the afternoon sun had removed the last traces of fog from the horizon. Nabiji told us that we might get lucky once again. With a big grin and heart full of hope, we took a detour through High Bank,Champion Road, Kamarghatta road & Chuahapani before reaching Sambhar Road. Pool ka Paar was also empty except for a few spotted deer and a barking deer which somewhat implied that 'His Highness' was not around. We went down to Ram Singh Sarak as well, hoping to catch a glimpse of a tusker but returned back empty handed. However, we could spot a crocodile basking on the opposite bank and clicked a few record shots.   The jungle was mostly silent with some isolated bird and monkey calls. We came back to Sambhar road and decided to wait for a while. This decision turned out to be one of the best decisions that we have ever taken on this tour ! At first, we spotted just the head peeping out from behind a mound.   And then slowly the remaining part of the body emerged as the tiger sat in an upright position. We could see that he had just taken a dip in the river and took multiple shots of him against the backdrop of the Ram Ganga river. What a majestic sight it was ! He waited for a while and then disappeared along the bank.   Just then my father spotted the familiar white circular patch popping up from behind a large bush and we immediately asked Nabiji to wait him out. However he had other plans. Just like a big furry kitten, he spread his arms and proceeded to take a quick nap!  20 minutes later, he was still dozing away dreaming of his next meal out of a Sambhar deer ( probably) and Nabiji signaled that we should start to head back. Halfheartedly we took our leave from 'His Highness' and proceeded back to our den at Sarpduli. Day 2 at Dhikala had been extremely rewarding, once again ! The plan for the next day was to complete the morning safari and head back to Ramnagar post breakfast. From Ramnagar, we were supposed to depart for Keoladeo National Park at Bharathpur in Rajasthan which was around 350kms away. Since Google showed 8 hours ETA, we planned to keep our safari short and head back to Ramnagar latest by 10:30am. Since Dhikala had already spoiled us with so many sightings, we thought of hitting two spots only during the morning safari in the last day. We started at 6:45 am and drove down to Sambhar Road first. It was mostly empty apart from a Crested Serpent Eagle, river lapwing and a flock of river terns.   My father suggested that we go and check out Pool ka paar and then come back and wait out at Sambhar Road. On arriving at Pool ka paar our spirits were drenched in the humid fog that seemed to cast a spell over the surroundings. With extremely low visibility, we figured that there was simply no chance of a sighting. Just then the gypsy in front of us started to reverse with the passengers frantically signaling us to turn back.  What happened in the next 10 minutes is best expressed through photographs. And I will leave it on to the photographs to tell the magical tale of how we stood mesmerized in-front of one of the fiercest predators on the planet as he started walking towards us with the poise fit for a true king.            Yes it was a dream come true experience for all of us and will stay with us till we continue to fall for the miracles of Mother Nature, time and time again ! The whole scene lasted for a little over 10 minutes and we clicked to our heart’s content!  Post this we instructed Nabiji to take us back to Ramnagar as Dhikala had fulfilled all our wishes in the most amazing way possible. I don’t remember much of the ride back to the Corbett gate as the scene kept replaying on my mind over and over again. Before exiting, we took one last look at Jim Corbett National Park and resolved to come back as soon as we heard the distant call of the tiger, beckoning us back to his rightful kingdom. With this, we come to the end of the second leg of the road trip. Stay tuned for the third and the final part where we cross the border into Rajasthan and explore one of the most protected haven for migratory birds! Last edited by turboNath : 13th January 2021 at 00:32. |
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13th January 2021, 04:38
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13th January 2021, 09:28
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| Distinguished - BHPian   Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Calcutta
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13th January 2021, 12:00
| #8 | |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan Quote:
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13th January 2021, 15:11
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13th January 2021, 19:32
| #10 | |
| Distinguished - BHPian  | re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan Quote:
Your travelogue is a great read. Each and every photograph speaks a volume. May I know which lens do you use, specially for birding? Rated a well deserved 5*. | |
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13th January 2021, 19:58
| #11 | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan Quote:
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For birding I use Nikon 200-500mm f5.6 alongwith D7500. For landscape it's the good old D90 with a Nikon 50mm f1.8. | ||
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14th January 2021, 09:49
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14th January 2021, 10:16
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| BHPian Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Kanpur/Riyadh
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14th January 2021, 13:11
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| BHPian  Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Bengaluru
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14th January 2021, 13:28
| #15 | |||
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Kolkata
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| Re: Into the wild drive : Kolkata - Uttarakhand - Rajasthan Quote:
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