[SJM1214]

What will you do once the Covid- 19 restriction lifted ( or relaxed)?
Well, the simple answer is go on a Road trip.

We all had our plan for 2020. Unfortunately, all of our plans got ruined. I had many things in mind from the beginning of 2020. We had an amazing trip to Udaipur, Chittorgarh, and Kumbhalgarh during the last week of December 2019. (Majestic Mewar : Udaipur - Chittorgarh - Kumbhalgarh).

2020 actually started with some nice small road trips. I also had a flying visit to Delhi which was clubbed with Auto Expo 2020. (Daulat ki Chaat, Paratha, Lal Qila and Auto Expo 2020) The news of Covid-19 was regularly popping up. In fact, the government didn't approve the officials of MG Motors and The great wall motors to travel to India for Auto Expo. We noticed many people wearing the mask at Auto Expo. We even made jokes about them.

And then came March 2020 with a big bang of Covid-19 and lockdown & restrictions related to it. Everything was stoped, including my regular official road trips. We started working from home. Scary news of covid-19 spreads, lockdown guidelines, and long zoom meetings became the highlight of life for more than 6 months. WFH has its own benefit but then I was missing my road trips for customer meets. And life went on, we got used to restrictions and WFH.

A road trip for pleasure was out of the question. Moreover, WFH was keeping us busy at home along with household duties. Believe me, these household duties never end. It kept me so much busy that I even stopped visiting Team-BHP. It felt like I was completely disconnected from the world of automobiles and travel. Everyone was interested in talking about Covid-19 (even at our hyperactive Team-BHP WhatsApp group). My wife loved this situation. I was just there at home all the time and she can ask me for any kind of help including house upkeeping & regular dusting. She got free of cost housekeeper, who didn't dare to say no for anything. The best thing for her that I was not busy reading something at Team-BHP or not discussing something at Team-BHP Guj WhatsApp group.

WFH was new normal for us. We made a small office setup at home, which we are using for my work and wife's online classes.

Our Home office setup


We were able to give maximum time to our kids and parents. We were able to keep Ziva busy in many activities.










We were ok. However, something was always missing. Specifically, I was missing my regular drives and outing. After some time, the lockdown guidelines got relaxed and, unlocking started. We were waiting for this. However, we waited a bit longer and went for a quick drive to a nearby lake. It was a welcome change from our daily boring routine.

A Small drive.

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

We had an amazing trip to Udaipur, Chittorgarh, and Kumbhalgarh during the last week of December 2019. (Majestic Mewar : Udaipur - Chittorgarh - Kumbhalgarh).

As mentioned, we had an amazing trip to Udaipur. December was approaching and, it was time for my Delhi based cousin to have a year-end vacation during Christmas week. He asked me, do I have anything in mind for the last week of December? Well, things were getting back to normal, tourism also started in some parts of India. The good news was, tourism already getting back to normal with Covid-19 guidelines and safety measures. Of course, I had many things in my mind but, nothing specific. He asked me to plan something during the last week of December.

I got into my travel planner mode and started thinking. Among many other options, I shortlisted Jaisalmer. We loved Udaipur and the forts of Chittorgarh and Kumbhalgarh. We loved Rajsthani food & hospitality and December is a perfect month for Rajsthan. Jaisalmer is one of the top tourist places in India, a favorite among foreign tourists. However, due to covid-19, there are no foreign tourists so it could be cheaper in terms of accommodation rates.

The only issue with Jaislamer is, its 650km far from our home town. The wife was skeptical about the comfort level of a 650km drive due to her motion sickness issues. However, apart from motion sickness medicines, I had one other thing in mind to make the drive more comfortable for the wife and kid. Moreover, out of four adults, three of us are proven, drivers. The best part of wife's driving is whenever she drives she forget about motion sickness and drive under 90kmph which gives amazing milage.


Jaisalmer was finalized as of our destination. There weren't many cases of covid-19. At least in Jaisalmer town, it was in control. I didn't design any specific itinerary.

We enjoyed our trip to Udaipur. However, we made a mistake in planning the trip. We tried to cover three major destinations (tourist places) in three days. Due to that, we weren't able to see Udaipur properly. Moreover, every morning during the trip, we had to wake up early and drive to the next destination. Moreover, We travel with our 5-years old daughter. So, we have to carry lots of stuff. We had to do lots of packing and unpacking during every check-in and checkouts. We wanted to avoid that.

I studied some travelogues and itineraries for Jaisalmer. Most of them were clubbed with Jodhpur and Bikaner. Of course, Jodhpur and Bikaner are amazing places, but we decided to avoid them completely. I researched more about Jaisalmer. I was convinced that Jaisalmer has more than many things to offer in terms of site seeing and activities. We decided to spend three nights in Jaisalmer and one night at Sam dunes camp.

The main attraction in Jailsmer is the fort named the Golden Fort, Sonar Quila, or Sone ka Quila. This fort is a living fort. People are actually living in this fort. There are plenty of hotels, homestays, hostels, and rooftop cafes inside the fort walls. Staying in a historical fort and that too in one of the curved room of the fort wall was an amazing offer for me, which I couldn't deny. I immediately got in touch with a boutique hotel owner and booked a suite for three nights. I asked the friendly hotel owner to book one night for us in one of the camps at Sam Village.

Another important question was, which vehicle to use. We have three options which include, MS Brezza, Honda WRV, and MS Ertiga. My primary vehicle is MS Brezza diesel and that was a perfect vehicle for a 2000km trip due to its amazing mileage. However, we shortlisted MS Ertiga. We were going to drive for more than 650km in one go. We needed more space and more comfort.

Our dates were finalized, accommodation was booked. We were ready to hit the road. We planned to leave early on 24th December morning. When I say early, it means 0300. However, there was a small issue in leaving early. My Delhi based cousin was flying to Ahmebdad on 23-Dec night. and, going to stay at one of our relative's place in A"bad. We had to pick him up from Ahmedabad. If we leave at 0300 from my home town Anand, we can reach A'bad at 0345. There is night curfew going on in A'bad during 2200 to 0600. so we can not entre A"bad without a proper reason before 0600. And "going to Jaisalmer for Christmas holidays", didn't sound a proper reason to me during this covid-19 era. We decided to leave at 0530 from my home town.

We were all set to rock and roll.

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

The only issue with Jaislamer is, its 650km far from our home town. The wife was skeptical about the comfort level of a 650km drive due to her motion sickness issues. However, apart from motion sickness medicines, I had one other thing in mind to make the drive more comfortable for the wife and kid.

...And that was the very reason that my kind of budget-conscious guy decided to take a petrol vehicle with lower mileage for a 2000+km road trip. I wanted to play with Ertiga's back seats and make a comfortable bed out of them. In Ertiga, both the row of seats are foldable and gives a nice flat surface and boot size of more than 850 ltrs. Let me quote some of the points from our official review.

Boot space stands at 209 liters (outgoing car = 135 liters) with all the rows in place. Medium-sized bag placed for scale:

550 liters of space with the 3rd row down. BHPian ParagSachania says that you can now slide the 2nd row all the way behind, and still fold the 3rd row fully down (wasn't possible in the outgoing Ertiga). Do note that the seats can individually fold too (50:50 split), in case there are 6 onboard and lots of luggage:

With the second and 3rd row folded down, the boot space increases to 803 liters. 60:40 split middle row offers added flexibility for passenger/cargo configurations:

This particular feature attracted me to Ertiga. I was highly impressed by this feature and, it was one of the major reasons behind buying Ertiga. It is said that necessity is the mother of inventions. When one of your travel companions do have a history of motion sickness. His/her comfort is a necessity. It's best that he/she sleep during the entire journey. In our case, if the wife sleeps in the car, motion sickness doesn't disturb her.

Well, folding the seats was not an invention. However, I was not sure where to put the luggage in this scenario. I also toyed the idea to add a luggage rack to the car, however, I was not sure about the rules so I dropped that idea. I wanted some new invention to accommodate the luggage in the car even after folding all the seats.

I took a measuring tape and got into a scientist mode. I thought of many combinations, but nothing was working out. I was getting frustrated and watching the back seats of cars. And Eureka, I noticed there was plenty of gap between first row seats (with maximum pulled back) and folded second raw. Earlier, I decided to cover that gap with extra cushions. I measured the gap and compared it with our trolley bags and it was perfect. We stuffed our three trolley bags inside the second seat row. And kept empty space for one bag. I immediately called my cousin and asked him that his bag should not be bigger than the given measurement. He was already at the airport. I said don't worry, we will bring an empty bag for him and then shift his luggage into the new bag.

He was shocked and laughing at me, but then everyone laughs at inventors when they don't understand the practicality of invention.

Let the pics do the talking.

There is plenty of space between the first row and second-row seats even after folding the second row. The best part is you can adjust this space/gap by sliding second-row seats. We fixed both the front row seat at a maximum comfort level and this is what we achieved...





This way, the major problem of accomodating our primary bags solved. Handbags and other stuff got easily accommodated on the bed. After all of this, there was plenty of gap between second-row doors and second-row seats. We stuffed our jackets and some extra cushions and blocked both the doors. We decided to do entry and exit from the back door only. The only issue was that the boot door can not be closed from inside. So, one of the people sitting in the front row seat had to do opening and closing for the bedroom. However, we were ok with it. We wanted to keep this setup for long drives of Anand to Jaisalmer and Jailsmer to Anand only. We put on some mattresses and some more extra cushions and made a flatbed.

We were ready with a flatbed where a 2 six feet persons with a kid can sleep easily. Wife and Cousin gave some artistic touch to it made a perfect bedroom.

Our Delux Suite.







We finished all this late in the night of 23-Dec and went to sleep (of course in our home in our regular bed).

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

My Delhi based cousin was flying to Ahmebdad on 23-Dec night. and, going to stay at one of our relative's place in A"bad. We had to pick him up from Ahmedabad. If we leave at 0300 from my home town Anand, we can reach A'bad at 0345. There is night curfew going on in A'bad during 2200 to 0600. so we can not entre A"bad without a proper reason before 0600. And "going to Jaisalmer for Christmas holidays", didn't sound a proper reason to me during this covid-19 situation. We decided to leave at 0530 from my home town.

This was the first time, I was not starting my drive early (0300 kind of early). We woke up at 0430. The wife made some dry snacks for the journey. We had a heavy breakfast and hit the road at 0515. Our first stop was one of our relative's place to pick our cousin. I wanted to make it quick, so we can reach Jaisalmer during daylight. However, quick never happens quickly when you are traveling with family. We reached Ahmedabad at 0615 and wasted one hour in some more breakfast and some early morning socializing.

When we start early for this kind of long drives, we normally don't wake Ziva ( my daughter's name is Ziva, BHPians who read my other T" log must know her) up. We just carry her in the car during her sleep and start driving. After a 70km of drive, when we stopped for her breakfast she was surprised to see a complete bed in the car. We wanted to avoid stopping at the hotel for food. So, we allowed her to have her breakfast in the car only. She loved that idea.

Good Morning Ziva.




We started driving after a quick stop. Our route was Anand-Ahmedabad-Palanpur-Deesa-Sanchor-Badmer-Jaisalmer. Anand to Palanpur is my familiar route. It's a good road. However, during pick hours it gets busy with lots of milk tankers and other commuters. I wanted to avoid those pick hours. After some chitchat and some games, the rest of the companion slept. I was enjoying my favorite music and empty roads. There is some flyover construction going on, so my average speed was 60 to 80kmph.

Another thing that was in my mind was the petrol rate in Rajsthan. Gujarat Petrol rates are 11/- cheaper than Rajsthan rates. I did some calculations and wanted to use petrol bought from Gujarat only as much as possible. We got a full tank at our source destination and decided to do a full tank or top-up at the last fuel bunk in Gujarat. We kept cruising. Ertiga's 1.5 ltr petrol engine was amazingly responsive. I was missing the diesel engine's higher torque. However, it was not necessary, as I am a very calm driver when with family. I was keeping my speed steady between 70 to 90 kmph and that gave me amazing milage of 17kmph. I did another top-up at the last fuel bunk of Gujarat and entered Rajasthan.

Welcome To Rajsthan.


Once we entered Rajsthan and approached Sanchor town the road was in bad shape with lots of surprising potholes. That decreased our speed. However, we kept driving. After the first session of sleep, other companions were also waking up. I drove more than 300 km and it was my time to take some rest in the back room of the car. The makeshift bedroom was amazingly comfortable. I slept for more than two hours. The road was bad, so our progress was slow.

All the other guys had a nice sleep of more than 4 hours, so all of them were in good mood. We stopped occasionally for bio breaks and food. Anand to Jaislamer is 650km, roughly an eight hours drive. However, we are tackling it at our own pace. We were enjoying the driver. After all, we got the chance to get on the road after 8 longs months. We were enjoying it.

Happy Cousins.


After Barmer, once again I took the wheel. We were welcomed by some small dunes. It was tough to convince other guys not to stop. Ziva wanted to play in Sands. We promised her that we are going to take her to better and bigger dunes. The road was excellent after Barmer. We spotted our first windmill.

Windmill


After the first windmill, there were plenty of windmills on both sides of the roads. The road was excellent, we were maintaining good speed. Ziva wanted to count all the windmills and notice which ones are working and which ones are not. We stopped for a while and let Ziva observe the windmills.

Excellent road.


And windmills


We kept moving.

Dusk was approaching. We were just 50km Far from Jaisalmer. We took our sweet time to reach Jaisalmer. However, all of us were in good mood. We were not tired or exhausted after a drive of 600km as all of us got enough rest and sleep during the drive. Thanks to our makeshift bed arrangement.

Dusk


After 50km of the drive, Jaisalmer welcomed us with big arms. We reached Jailsmer in a 10.30 hour's drive. It was an achievement in itself.

Welcome to Jaisalmer





I called up our homestay owner. He asked me to reach Fort parking. They have arranged a tuk-tuk for us to take us inside the fort. There was a big parking area just at the base of the fort (outside of fort walls). I was worried about the car's safety. The homestay owner assured me that there is nothing to worry about and, none will touch your car. The Parking fees for a day was 60/- which was already paid by our hotel owner.

We reached fort Parking and got out of the car. The fort was just next to us standing proudly and welcoming us. It was an amazing sight. We just stood there for a while and observed that majestic structure. Within five minutes, the manager approached us and welcomed us. I asked where is our room, he asked me to look at the fort and told me the curved wall which is visible is your stay for the next three days. Wow. We were excited to be there.

Our homestay.

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

There are plenty of hotels, homestays, hostels, and rooftop cafes inside the fort walls. Staying in a historical fort and that too in one of the curved room of the fort wall was an amazing offer for me, which I couldn't deny. I immediately got in touch with a boutique hotel owner and booked a suite for three nights.

The name of the hotel was Hotel RajMandir. This boutique hotel is situated inside the fort. It's not a big hotel. They have 4 tastefully designed rooms and one suite. Practically, this was the home of the owner, which converted into a hotel. We accepted a grand Rajsthani welcome with welcome juice, Tialk and, flowers. However, as per the manager, they dropped the tradition due to Covid 19. We were ok with it.

Hotel Raj Mandir.



The room was amazing. It was designed as per royal Rajputana style. The was representing all the elements of the royal era of Rajasthan. The traditional style of interior was looking classy and giving a royal feel. The carpet, cushions, bed, even the cupboard had a traditional touch. We immediately finalized the room without checking other options.

Our Room.







After checking in, We rushed to check the rooftop restaurant. Due to low footfall, the restaurant was closed. However, they had an amazing rooftop with a nice sitting arrangement for hotel residents. We got an amazing view of the entire west side of the city. It was an amazing place to spend the evening. The rooftop of the fort is an amazing place with too many restaurants and bars.

View from the top of the Fort.





We got back to our rooms, got freshen up, did unpacking, and got out in the streets of the fort for Christmas evening dinner. A local kid was roaming in the street in his Dinasour costume. Ziva started playing with him. The kid's family was surprisingly welcoming. They welcomed us into their home and offered us tea. However, we promised them that we would visit them the next day as we are starving.

Dinasour in the fort.



We left Dinasour's home started hunting for a good restaurant. We find a good restaurant named Free Tibet just next to our hotel. I wanted to get on their rooftop and wanted to have my dinner under the open sky and with an amazing view of Jaisalmer City. However, it was too cold and windy, so we choose to seat in one of their dining room. On the base of their name, we accepted a restaurant designed on a Tibetan theme but, to our surprise, it was also in Rajputana style.

Free Tibet Restaurant.






The food was excellent. Considering the quality, the price was reasonable. Ideal for those who want a romantic night out. Excellent view and polite staff. Food takes a little time to cook because they make everything from scratch, but it's worth it. We spent more than two hours enjoying the view and food. At 2330 we wished the staff happy Christmas and got back to our rooms.

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

I didn't design any specific itinerary.

This is the best part of the city trip. I mean, when you are visiting a city, you don't need to design an itinerary. Just book a hotel in your desired city and then take input from locals for what to do and how to do it. That's exactly what I did. Before retiring to my room, I spent half hour with the owner and took his input on how to spend my next day. He suggested me to visit all the attraction in the city and palace during the first day. He suggested not to take any guide to visit the palace and Havelis. As per him, they will take you to one of their shops to buy local stuff and get commissions. Well, that a universal practice. However, in my opinion, a guide is a must when you are visiting a historical place. Yes, we can read a hell lot of things about historical places. However, the inputs and local flavor which you get from a local guide are priceless.

He also suggested us to see the sunrise from the terrace. Our hotel was situated in one of the best places to see the sunrise. But that could wait. We didn't want to wake up early on the first day.

The next day we woke up at 0900 and rushed to the terrace for our breakfast. They serve breakfast at their rooftop area, which has a nice sitting arrangement.

Rooftop dining area.





The view of Jaisalmer city from the rooftop was breathtaking. It offers a spectacular view of the city. You are practically on the rooftop of not only the hotel but, also the fort. You can have an amazing view of the fort walls. Have a look.

View from Hotel rooftop.













We clicked in lots of photographs. We were waiting for our breakfast. The manager was short of staff. So he himself was preparing food for us. He was taking his own time. We were not in any hurry. We have been told that we can visit all the attractions in the city within one day. We took that opportunity and went on the terrace of the rooftop restaurant. That provides us a different view of the city and inside the fort.

View from rooftop restaurant's rooftop.











Of course, we spent some time doing our own photoshoot.





Finally, our breakfast was served. I never understand one thing about this complimentary breakfast. How come the basic items like Aloo Paratha and Poha taste that amazing? Or do they taste amazing because they are free? Whatever it is, we loved the food and ate like kings and queens.

Aloo Paratha and Poha complimentary and the expression on hungry faces Priceless.

[SJM1214]

Originally Posted by SJM1214

I spent a half-hour with the owner and took his input on how to spend my next day. He suggested me to visit all the attraction in the city and palace during the first day.

We just got out of the hotel started walking in the streets of Fort. I didn't have any plan. I was feeling too lazy to get out my cellphone and search for what to do. I decide to go with the flow. And the walking in the streets of the fort was spectacular. People were busy setting up their makeshift shop. All the houses were made in Rajputana style blended with modern style. kids were playing in the streets women were busy with their household chores. This is a more than 900-year-old fort, with old walls. However, you can feel the thumping of life in every corner of the fort.

Streets of the fort.

Originally Posted by SJM1214

A local kid was roaming in the street in his Dinasour costume. Ziva started playing with him. The kid's family was surprisingly welcoming. They welcomed us into their home and offered us tea. However, we promised them that we would visit them the next day.

We fulfilled our promise. Actually, we had to fulfill our promise. When we were passing in front of the Dinasour's house. He came out and hold our hand and, pulled us to his home. We were not able to refuse that Dinasour. His name was Kedar. We spend 10 minutes with Kedar and his family. Kedar came with us to help us to find a guide.

Ziva with Kedar & team



We went to the center part of the fort. Kedar helped us to find and good guide. He fixed the rate of 200/- for the palace and some haveli. We thanked Kedar and, he went back to his home. We started the sightseeing with a guide.

Center of the fort.


Guide asked us to follow him and started narrating the history of the fort. Which I already knew. However, he explained the basic format of the fort like the brahmin zone & Rajput zone. He also explained that nonveg wouldn't be available in the rooftop cafes of the brahmin zone. Now, this kind of information you can not get in any books.

We followed the guide through the streets of the fort. Streets were dotted with shops of artifacts, bedsheets, fridge magnets, and books. Many of them were with the board in the Hebrew language. Like many other places in India, this place is also a favorite among Jews. These jews have to go for three years of army duty in Israel and, after that, they come to India and spend their time in Ladakh, Goa, Kasol, Pushkar, Humpi, and Jaislamer kind of places, relax and go back to their country and start their civilian carrier.

Streets of the Fort.







We followed the guide to Jain Temples. The Jain Temples are one of the oldest temples in Jaisalmer, which are situated inside the Jaisalmer Fort complex. There are seven Jain temples in total, which are built during the 12th and 15th centuries AD. These Jain temples are dedicated to different Jain Tirthankaras. These temples are famous for their Dilwara style paintings and architecture that were predominant in the medieval era. The temples are built out of yellow sandstone and have intricate engravings on them. These temples have archaeological and religious significance attached to them.

Jain Temples.





Wife, cousin, and, Ziva went inside to see the temples.



I remain with this guy to enjoy Padahro Mahre Desh song.



After the temple visit, we were once again on the streets. Those streets were a bustling market. We loved walking on those streets. I am not able to understand ladies' obsession with different kind of bedsheets. Whenever they see a bedsheet shop they will go inside and see all the bedsheets. The local shop owners understand these very well and, they display all kinds of bedsheets to lure ladies.

Street Market.









We loved walking in that street. However, I wanted to go to the next attraction. We specifically planned an entire day to walk in the streets of the Jaisalmer to do the shopping and try local delicacies.

[SJM1214]

Our next attraction was the palace inside the fort. Fort Palace Museum and Heritage Centre was an erstwhile royal residence, which was later converted into a heritage center and museum. The museum houses a great collection of artifacts depicting the rich culture and heritage of Jaisalmer. Photography is not allowed inside of it. The best part of the museum is you can always have a look at them by googling it.

It's actually a small palace which can be viewed in half-hour. The worthwhile 1½-hour audio-guide tour (available in six languages) is included with the entry fee, but you must leave a ₹2000 deposit. Or your passport, driver’s license, or credit card. However, if you have a guide you don't need this audio guide (that's IMHO). We visited all the rooms and museum. And, rushed to the rooftop of the palace to have a 360degree view of the fort and the city.

The Palace.



The Palace.



The Palace.



The Palace.



View from the palace rooftop.



Birdeye view of the Fort



The wall



Of course when you are at this kind of spectacular place. A Photoshoot is a must. Our guide was an amazing photographer and he helped us click some amazing photographs.

A Photoshoot.

[SJM1214]

Our Guide was a jolly fellow. He told us many interesting facts about the place as well as the fort. He was a good photographer too. I offered him my SLR to click some photos. He refused and said that his expertise is limited to phone cameras only. So, once we were done, he told us that our next destination named Patwa Haveli is in the city and half km walking distance from the fort. He suggested us to walk that distance to experience the streets of Jaisalmer why not. On his command, we started walking.

We started walking out of the fort. Lots of tourists were entering the fort. The side lane of both sides of the road was full of locals selling a different kind of local stuff. The walls and the gate of the fort were looking stunning.

The Main gate



Local jewelry



Puppets



Padaharo Mahre Desh once again.



The Walls.



Outer Gate.



Outer Gates and Birds



Inner Parking of fort.



The streets of Jaisalmer with their charming architecture, narrow lanes, and friendly bystanders was a treat to explore on foot. The lanes are narrow and the buildings tall. They share walls in a way that each building is open only and the front and the back. Maybe this layout is designed to keep the sun out and provide shade for residents. Strolling cows & goats have as much of a right to be there as the cycles and scooters. In fact, these animals have a special place in the lives of the residents.

Streets of Jaisalmer City.











We reached Patwa Haveli. It was magnificent. As per our guide the owner of this Haveli Ghuman Chand Patwa, used to finance the king of Jaisalmer. In return, King provided security to the Patwas for their trade. Its a well a know fact that Jaislamer used to be an important junction on the ancient silk route. Ghuman Chand Patwa, decided to gift each of his five sons a separate and elaborate mansion and, he built this exotic haveli. The exterior of this haveli impressed us all. The guide said wait till you get inside, it's better than any king's palace.

Patwa Haveli Exterior.











We entered the Haveli. Our Guide was right. The Patwas knew how to live a lavish life. IMO, the only issue with this haveli was, it's situated in narrow lanes of Jaisalmer, and maybe that's the reason called Haveli. It was no less than a royal palace. Patwa Haveli is one of the finest, oldest and, largest Havelis in Jaisalmer, which is full of artistic work in each corner, be it gracefully carved pillars, façade, or the balconies (Jharokhas). Kothari’s Patwa Haveli bears expensive decorated items that were imported from various countries. The murals and interiors have derived inspiration from the Rajputi, Mughal as well as Victorian architecture.
Let's have a look.

Interior of Patwa Haveli.













Hyundai TV









Our guide told us that we would get a nice view of the fort wall from the haveli terrace. However, we were disappointed by the view. We clocked some photographs and got out of the haveli highly impressed by Patwa'slifre style and taste.

View from the rooftop.

[SJM1214]

We got back to the streets and asked our guide whats next. He told me that we are done. Oops, we got fond of him and his photography. We requested him to show us some more Havelis. There were two more Havelis. As per him, there was some construction going on so getting inside the haveli was not possible. However, he got ready to take us to see them from outside.

Back to the streets.



As per our guide, Salim Singh was the prime minister of Jaisalmer. Salim Singh Ki Haveli is famous for its distinctive architecture as it constitutes 38 gracefully carved balconies. The architecture of this mansion is inspired by a dancing peacock. One of the most ambitious constructions of its times, the Haveli is so magnificent, that it even invited the ruler's envy during its era. The story goes something like this, When he became the prime minister, he was vicious and cruel in his dealings with the people of the city, making him notorious for not being a nice person. In his quest for vengeance, he set out to build himself a structure, the haveli, which looked even grander than the King’s residence. He also ordered two extra stories to be built so that his haveli was taller than that of the king’s - which did not go down well at all with the king.

Unfortunately, we were not able to get inside the Haveli. However, the exterior of Haveli was impressive.

Salim Singh Ki Haveli







We had hot "gulab jamun" and "gajar ka halwa" with our guide. He was enjoying our company. He offered to show us one more Haveli. Why not, we once again started following him in the streets of Jaisalmer.





The name of the next Haveli was Nathmal. Nathmal Ki Haveli was built by two Muslim jeweler brothers and not stone carvers on the order of the then prime minister Nathmalji. Apart from its extraordinary outer carvings, this haveli is known for its beautiful interiors filled with paintings and equipped with modern facilities. An amalgamation of Islamic and Rajputana architecture, Nathmal Ki Haveli is well justified as being one of the most beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

We had all the time in the world. That's how we planed the city tour still we were not able to go inside this Haveli and have a look at it.

Nathmal ki Haveli.

[SJM1214]

We bid farewell to the guide and started walking back to the gate. I have been to Jasilamer back in 2006. It was a group trip with my colleagues. However, I was not able to find a single landmark or shop familiar except the fort. Maybe my memory was faded or Jaisalmer was changed. As per locals, nothing was drastically changed at the main markets and streets. We were walking back to the fort parking and, I was wondering and trying to find something familiar from my 15 years old trip.

And finally, I found something familiar. It was a small shop at the main crossing and a bright smiling face. It was a Bhang shop. A Lassi shop with added Bhang. I recalled my 15-year-old trip when I and some of my friends spend more than 3 hours with this smiling guy. I rushed to meet him.

I told him that, I came to Jaisalmer after 15 years and, remember only two things from Jaisalmer. Frist is the fort, and the second was his smiling face. He was happy to meet me. He offered me his best Lassi and denied to take the payment.

Meeting 15 years old friend



It was his birthday. We all wished him.



His birthday reminded me of one thing. It was on the 25th of December. It was strange that my wife or cousin didn't ask me to take them to church on a Christmas day. I decided to score some points with my wife by taking them to church.

We put a hold on our site seeing activity and went to a nearby church. Surprisingly the church was also made with local influence. The church, the school, and all other related structures were built in Rajasthani style.

Church in Jaisalmer









After church, we went for a quick lunch. during lunch, we realized that we are done with almost all the essential tourist attractions. Ghadisar lake was pending, which was kept for the evening during sunset. We decided to get out of the Jaisalmer and cover some places on the road of Sam village. We headed towards Barabagh. It was just 6km far from Jaisalmer.

The road to Bara Bagh was dotted with many windmills.

To Bara Bagh.





Bara Bagh







Bada Bagh means big garden. It is a garden of cenotaphs or chhatris of the royal family of Jaisalmer. The garden stands at the foot of a hill and, several chhatris or cenotaphs stand in memory of the late rulers of Jaisalmer. Cenotaphs are also known as chhatris and, one cenotaph is erected for each ruler. The cenotaph of Maharawal Jait Singh is the oldest of all. Many cenotaphs were built by subsequent rulers for the Bhatti royal family of Jaisalmer. This continued till the 20th century when the last one for Maharawal Jawahar Singh was left incomplete as his son, who ascended the throne after him, died within one year of his ascension. This was considered to be bad luck and from then on, the tradition of cenotaphs at Bada Bagh was discontinued.


Bada Bagh is enveloped in serene calm and tranquility. Evenings are best to visit this beautiful site

Bada Bagh.























Bada Bagh might surprise you with its greenery in the arid desert landscape of Jaisalmer. This was in fact the very idea when it was built back in the 16th century – to build a beautiful green oasis in the desert region.
Originally, there were only a dam and a water reservoir, but successive rulers started to build memorials and chhatris in the memory of erstwhile rulers of this region.

The Dam and Greenery.





We had a very active day of site seeing and exploring Jaisalmer. Dusk was approaching and, we rushed to Ghadisar Lake to witness the sunset.

A man-made water reservoir, the Gadisar Lake was once the only source of water in Jaisalmer. Constructed by the first ruler of Jaisalmer, Raja Rawal Jaisal, it is surrounded by temples and ghats (banks). Boating is one of the most carried out activities in the Gadisar Lake, there are numerous chhatris in the middle of the lake, where you can take short trips and enjoy the serene calmness around the lake. If you are there around sunset this is the chhatris is the best place to witness it as the lake turns golden in color and makes a wonderful sight to witness.

The Tillon ki Pol or Tillon Gate is the first thing that you can see when visiting the Gadisar Lake. The Tillon ki Pol is the archway, that is built out of sandstone, approaching the entrance of the Gadisar Lake

Tillon Gate.






The water was dirty and stinking. Ghadir lake is one of the most visited places in Jaisalmer. However, it didn't impress us. We avoided boating and spend some time at the lake watching the sunset.

GhadiSar Lake.

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We bid farewell to Ghadisar lake after sunset. We had our dinner at the top of the fort. Now we wanted to have our dinner away from the fort. We wanted to have the fort's view during over diner.

We inquired around. we were told that there is a rooftop restaurant named Cafe the Kaku, which gives an amazing view of The fort and excellent food. We reached Cafe the Kaku. It was overflowing with guests. We waited for more than half-hour for our turn. However, they arranged a nice sitting arrangement for us at the terrace with a bonfire. The view of the fort from the restaurant was amazing. We enjoyed the view with excellent food.

Cafe the Kaku







After an amazing dinner, we drove back to fort parking, walked back to our hotel and, called it a day.

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He also suggested us to see the sunrise from the terrace. Our hotel was situated in one of the best places to see the sunrise.

We woke up early and rushed to the terrace. We wanted to witness the sunrise from the fort. Many tourists were there at the other rooftop restaurant to witness the sunrise. The view of the rising sun over the city is amazing. There are several vantage points within the fort from which you could enjoy the sunrise. We were at one of the best ones.

Good Morning Jaisalmer.



Other Tourists



Thanks for tea



Empty Fort gate.



Sunrise



Sunrise

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For the second day, we planned to visit Longewala, Tanot Temple, and if possible Indo- Pak Border. After visiting this location, we wanted to do a desert Safari and then spend a night at Tents at Sam Village. This was an over all 350km round trip. I wanted to start early, so we can spend maximum time and utilize the day properly.

However, that didn't happen. We left our hotel at 0915. We checked out from the hotel and kept luggage in the hotel's locker room. We kept some essentials only for Sam Village.

We started at 0915.



Good Morning Ziva.



To Longewala





This road was leading to the International Border of India and Pakistan, through a desert, The Great Desert of Thar. Except for the series of windmills, nothing was there till the journey to Ramgarh, which is about 65 km away from Jaisalmer. Ramgarh is the last major town on this route, spotted from miles away because of its 300-meters ultra-high TV Tower. The road was good. Before going to Longewala, we wanted to visit Tanot Temple.


The road.




The Great Desert of Thar was started and we spotted many dunes. We stopped at one of the big dunes, which was closer to the road. So this was our first encounter with sand dune. We made the most out of it. we clicked many photographs, ran on it, played with it, and spend a half-hour with the dune.

Frist dune.
















We took a turn and approached the road to Tanot Temple.
The road to Tanot Temple was a pure delight. We were actually cruising through the Great Desert of Thar. But, it was not like what we thought about the deserts. We always thought that there would be vast barren stretches covered with sand and sand dunes, but in reality, that road was passing through the landscape filled with thorny shrubs and occasionally with tiny isolated hamlets.

The road was excellent. Of course, we were in the territory of BRO ( Roder road Organisation), and under BRO Roads are always in their best conditions.

To Tanot.









We reached Tanot. The legend says that in both wars more than 3,000 bombs were dropped either in the vicinity or while of the temple, but none exploded. And one can see some of those bombs in the Museum built by BSF inside the temple premises. After India defeated Pakistan in 1965, BSF established a post inside the temple premises and took charge of proceedings of Pooja of the deity, Tanot Mata. The temple to date is handled by BSF. Post-1971 war, the fame of Tanot Mata and her temple reached heights, and BSF constructed a big temple on that site along with a Museum where the unexploded bomb shot at the Indian Army was kept. Indian Army built a Vijay Stambha to mark the victory of Longewala inside the temple compound and each year a celebration takes place on December 16 as the commemoration of the great victory over Pakistan in 1971.

The Tanot Temple.













You don't come to Jaisalmer kind of far away tourist place frequently. It was true for us and that's the reason, we wanted to make the most out of our trip. We wanted to visit the Indo-Pak border. We were told that we need to take persimmon from the BSF office in Jsailamer. We tried to do it in Jaisalmer, but we were denied. After the temple visit, we tried once again at BSF counter at Tanot Temple. Once again they said no. However, we noticed that BSF was permitting tourists who had some kind of connection in BSF. Unforteunelty, we didn't have any connection in BSF.

We convinced our selves that, we'll come again to see the Indo- Pak border. We had some light snacks at Tanot temple and headed for Longewala.

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Once again, we got on the amazingly maintained road by BRO. Tanot to Lonegwala was 50km. The road was surrounded by amazing and untouched dunes. Once again, we wanted to get out and play in dunes. However, a war museum was waiting for us.

To Longewala.





The war museum of Longewala was closed due to covid 19. Longewala war memorial is not just a destination. It is an emotion that every proud Indian holds within. India not only emerged victorious in the 1971 battle with Pakistan but also birthed incredible stories of courage and sacrifice that have been inscribed in gold. The museum exhibits the war zone, ammunition used, uniforms of soldiers. The walls have names and pictures of the martyrs as well as those who fearlessly fought to protect the country. One among them is Late Brigadier (then Major) Kuldeep Singh Chandpuri. He gave a tough fight to the 2000 strong Pakistani troop with a company of only 120 Indian soldiers, defending the Longewala post for the whole night.

We wanted to see all of these. However, we couldn't. I asked others to try to think and recall the Border movie. I never liked that movie. We Indians are very poor in making war movies. However, it was a good reference for us when we were not able to see the War Museum.

The war museum of Longewala











This is a place where you will find yourself standing right on the surface where the war of Longewala was fought. There was a war trail, where we could visit actual bunkers used by the Army. Some captured Pakistani vehicles and tanks were also there. We visited the entire area and felt proud of the achievement of the Indian Army.

The War Trail.















We left from Longewala. Our Next destination was Sam Village. Longewala to Sam village was 130km. Roughly a 2.30 hours drive. I wanted to make it fast and reach our campsite. The road was excellent and we could make it in 2 hours

To Sam Village.



We were cruising on this road. The road was dotted with many untouched dunes. Ziva wanted to play in the sand and, keeping the time in mind. I kept denying her.

I am an MTS (Master in Tourism Studies) student from IGNOU. Along with many other things, there is an entire chapter on the behavior of tour guides. The Chapter says that the tour guide should keep time in mind but should not compromise with tourist enjoyment. After all, tourists are touring to have good times. Somehow, during my driving, I recall that lesson. Ok, I am not a tourist guide but, the entire planning and decision-making happen to be mine. Ziva and others wanted to have some fun and, I was saying no due to time. The dunes were inviting us. I thought Sam village could wait, let's have some fun. We turned towards the nearby sand dunes.

To Sand dunes.





Some local kids joined us. It reminded me Dhanak movie. we played with them. All of us had an amazing time with those kids and dunes. Ziva made some new friends. For Ziva, it was the highlight of the entire Jaisalmer trip.

We had some fun.













We shared our homemade snacks. Ziva was more than happy to share her precious Oreos and Kitkats with her new friends.



Those kids invited us to their home. I am always curious to see inside the Bhungas. We followed them to their home. However, our car got stuck in the sand. After some reverse and forward maneuvers, we got out of the sand. But the dirt rack to their home was looking dangerous to me. We bid farewell to those kids and got back on our road to Sam village.

Goodbye kids