[nandita_bayan21]

Some more pictures from Day 11:

Just before leaving Kaza Zostel




The famous Rangrik bridge




On our way to Losar




Mesmerising views at the Kunzum Pass top (Stupas, colorful prayer flags, and the Kunzum Mata Mandir)









Hulk right infront of our tent




Scenery before reaching Chandrataal lake









The surreal Chandrataal lake








A few of our pictures at the Chandrataal lake









Return to from the lake towards the tent




Some 'not-so-great' shots of the night sky

[nandita_bayan21]

Day 12 – 8 Sept 2019 – Chandrataal lake to Manali (Distance covered – approx. 115 kms, Route – Chandrataal > Batal > Chhatru > Gramphu > Rohtang Pass > Manali)

We woke up around 7:30 am to a chilly morning. The night had been quite uncomfortable, with temperatures likely dropping below zero, though we couldn’t confirm since there was no network to check. I was down with fever and a worsening sore throat, while Atul had a slight headache, a runny nose, and had barely slept through the night. By the time the sun came up, we decided to step outside for some fresh air and a bit of Vitamin D. After freshening up, we came outside the tent and found a layer of frost on Hulk, indicating how cold it had been. The hotel staff checked with us about breakfast, and Atul requested aloo paratha, two teas, and if possible, an omelet. While we waited for the food, we basked in the morning sun, hoping it would make us feel better as we had a long tiring ride ahead to Manali. We knew the roads would be in their usual poor condition, making the journey even more grueling. By 8:15 am, breakfast arrived, and we ate quickly before beginning the task of packing our luggage for the day’s ride.

After completing our packing and loading Hulk with all our gear, we geared up and checked everything thoroughly. Atul ran through the necessary checks on Hulk, and we finished the checkout formalities. By around 9:30 am, we were ready to hit the road towards Manali. Fortunately, Hulk's tank was nearly full, so we didn’t have to worry about refueling right away. The route to the Chandrataal entry gate was familiar, returning via the same road we had taken the previous day. We crossed two water streams again—one relatively easy and the other requiring a bit more effort. I decided to wade through the deeper section on foot while Atul carefully navigated the bike through. We were well-prepared for these water crossings from our experience the day before. Once we reached the entry gate, we joined the Kaza-Batal-Gramphu highway (NH505) and continued our ride. We arrived in Batal about 10 mins later, passing by the renowned Chacha Chachi dhaba. A few tourist vehicles were parked outside, and people were enjoying their breakfast, but we chose to skip it and move ahead.

During the water crossings, water had somehow gotten into Atul’s boots, soaking his socks. We decided to take a short break to dry his socks and empty any water that might have seeped into his boots. This took us about 10-15 mins. By 10:30 am, we were back on the road, ready for the journey ahead. Our journey was slowed considerably by the poor condition of the untarred roads. The route was a rough patchwork of gravely, bumpy terrain, with several water streams spilling onto the highway and stretches of river rock beds adding to the discomfort. Pebbles were scattered everywhere, and some appeared to be arranged haphazardly which resembled like a road, which only made riding more challenging. Water streams also flowed down from the side hills, further complicating our ride. The remote environment gave us a feeling of isolation; there were no villages or settlements in sight, likely due to the harsh conditions and barren landscape. To our left, the Chenab River flowed steadily, a constant companion as we struggled through the rugged path.

We navigated through numerous water streams and pebbly sections on our journey. To make it easier for Atul to handle Hulk, especially with all the luggage, I often got off the bike and walked through the water. The pebbles were slippery and varied in size, likely having been carried by the river's current when the water levels were higher. I have always been cautious when dealing with tough terrain, but today, it seemed our luck was running out. It was here that our almost properly executed Spiti ride plan started to go haywire. A single misstep – a moment of bad luck was about to set off a series of unfortunate events, reminding us how a wrong second can lead to rippling unsatisfactory events.

While crossing a relatively easier water stream filled with slippery round pebbles, I misjudged the surface of a rock, thinking it was flat. Instead, it was balanced on a smaller rock beneath it. The misstep resulted in a sharp twist of my left ankle, along with a distinct cracking sound that was vivid in my ears. The moment I heard the noise, I knew the injury was serious—I had likely fractured a bone near my ankle. Unable to move, I managed to push myself to the edge of the road to avoid obstructing any traffic, though there was none. I quickly used the Sena Bluetooth intercom to inform Atul that I might have broken a bone and needed him to come to check on me.

At that moment, Atul had already crossed the water stream and was waiting for me on the other side. A sharp pain flowing through my body, predominantly along the back of my leg, making me totally immobile. Atul quickly parked Hulk by the roadside and came over. He helped me sit next to a rock and asked if I could move my leg—my response was a definitive no. He carefully attempted to open my boots to assess the damage, a process that took a lot of time, effort, and pain. I somehow tried to gulp through the excruciating pain so as not to scream and invite unwanted attention. The area around my ankle was already red and severely swollen, and even the slightest movement sent waves of excruciating pain through me. It became evident that I had likely fractured a bone. Atul, recognizing the gravity of the situation, began to consider our next steps, trying to figure out how we could manage this unexpected and dire situation. By now he opened the first aid box and sprayed some Volini around the affected area.

Atul suggested that I could get into an incoming cab, if one was available and heading towards Manali or, at the very least, Gramphu. He would follow me on the bike. I was not sure about this plan, preferring to stay on the bike rather than come in a stranger’s vehicle. Ultimately, I felt that traveling by bike, even with my injury, was preferable to relying on uncertain help. We waited for a vehicle or truck to come by, but none appeared. By around 12 pm, we had spent about 30 mins waiting for help. A few bikers passed us, but their bikes were already fully loaded, so they couldn’t help. I suggested to Atul that I should at least try wearing my boots and see if I could sit on the bike. If I could manage to do so, we might be able to cover some distance before finding more help. Atul agreed, and with significant effort, I managed to put on my boots. I carefully mounted the bike from the right side to avoid putting pressure on my injured ankle. Atul decided to go slowly and carefully, however far as possible.

Despite the extreme pain, we managed to cover some distance, with me trying to keep the discomfort to myself to avoid adding stress to Atul. Around 12:30 pm we reached one of the most ferocious and the toughest water crossings on this highway, the Chota Dhara. Given the afternoon sun had melted snow from the surrounding hills, the water level was much higher than anything we had encountered so far. There was no way Atul could navigate this section with me and the luggage on the bike. I suggested that I would handle the water crossings on foot, but Atul was initially reluctant. With no help or vehicles in sight and the only alternatives being to wait indefinitely or attempt the crossing by ourselves, we had little choice. After about 15 mins of waiting and contemplating, Atul reluctantly agreed to let me get down. I took his support, and the pain intensified almost immediately. Despite the agony, I focused on calming myself and reassuring myself that I could manage and help Atul.

Throughout our journey, Atul had been maneuvering Hulk at low speeds and lower gears to navigate the water streams, which led to a slight overheating of the bike. Despite this, he managed to clear all sections except for the Chota Dhara. As I limped through the rocky terrain, carefully placing each step to avoid further injury, Hulk’s front tyre got stuck against a large rock. I tried to dislodge it by hand, but the rock was deeply embedded. Atul attempted to free the bike by letting go of the clutch and accelerating, but this only stalled the engine. He then tried using a half-clutch technique while revving the bike, which eventually worked and freed the tire. He had to repeat this maneuver several times, which took a toll on Hulk. After clearing the rock obstacle, we encountered another challenging section with no visible road at all. The only path was through a narrow strip of sand between large boulders. I removed as many rocks as I could by hand to make the passage easier for Atul. All this with that excruciating pain and Atul felt terrible. But I assured him that this is how we will manage to cross all hurdles – by helping one another and watching each other’s backs. After an immense struggle and exhausting every ounce of our energy, we finally managed to cross the notorious Chota Dhara.

The second set-back for the day happened right at this moment. Less than a km after crossing the Chota Dhara, Hulk broke down. With about 80 kms left to reach Manali and the time nearing 1 pm, we encountered a slope where Atul attempted to shift gears, but the bike wouldn’t move. The RPM was increasing, but the bike wasn’t moving. Atul suspected a mechanical issue, likely a burnt clutch plate due to the overheating and over revving. I managed to get off the bike despite the pain and helped Atul unload the luggage. He moved Hulk to a flat surface and parked it by the roadside to investigate further. I sat next to a rock with the luggage and by now, my ankle pain felt much smaller as compared to the scary thought of how we will reach Manali. After a thorough check, Atul confirmed that the clutch was indeed damaged. Attempts to shift gears were not helping, and it was clear that Hulk needed to be towed.

We were completely cut off from any network, making it impossible to call RSA, tow trucks, or friends for assistance. The few tourist vehicles that passed by were either unwilling or unable to help. A group of Royal Enfield riders stopped to offer advice—some suggested checking the battery, others recommended waiting and trying again later. Despite their good intentions, Atul had already tried these solutions without success. One rider mentioned that a friend had faced a similar issue and had to leave his bike overnight, returning the next day with spares and a mechanic. Atul was reluctant to leave Hulk behind, especially considering that Kawasaki parts were unlikely to be available locally, with the nearest service station being in Chandigarh. The group eventually left, promising to inform if they saw any empty trucks or vehicles that could assist.

As the sunlight grew harsher, we waited for nearly an hour now. Atul flagged down every passing vehicle, asking if they could help or pass on a message about our situation. A cab driver assured us he would try to arrange help and gave us his contact number just in case. I took off my boots and socks, and Atul applied more Volini to my ankle, asking me to rest. The pain and swelling had intensified, and with each passing minute, the prospect of spending a night stranded in such a remote and challenging location started to haunt us. Both tried to act strong and assured each other that something good will happen for sure. We both knew that if help didn’t arrive soon, we were going to face the scariest night of our traveling life.

Around 2 pm, we spotted an empty truck approaching from the Batal direction. As Atul prepared to flag down the driver, the truck stopped on its own. The driver informed us that he had heard about our situation from the cab driver who had given us his number. Overwhelmed with relief, we thanked the Gods and our luck, and narrated the entire saga to him. The driver, seeing my condition and our situation, agreed to help immediately. Along with him were two German backpackers, a local shepherd with one sheep, and another passenger who needed to get down near Chhatru. Everyone was willing to assist in any way they could. However, the truck was headed towards Leh to load vegetables and could only take us as far as Gramphu. The driver assured us that once we reached Gramphu, he would help us find another truck to continue our journey to Manali. Atul, recognizing the urgency, agreed to the plan. With renewed hope, Atul prepared to load Hulk onto the truck, grateful for the unexpected assistance.

The next challenge was lifting Hulk, which weighed approx. 230 kg, onto the truck’s rear body. The truck didn’t have any heavy-duty ropes or lifting equipment, so we had to come up with a creative solution. After some brainstorming, Atul and the guys decided to use a large rock that was nearly as high as the truck’s rear body and had a sloping edge. The plan was to position the truck’s rear against the top of the rock and then push Hulk up the slope. It sounded easy but not in reality. All 6 men worked together to maneuver Hulk onto the rock’s slope. With great effort, they managed to push the bike up the rock and bring it to the top edge. From there, it was carefully pushed onto the truck’s rear. Once Hulk was on the truck, it was secured with ropes attached to the truck’s hooks, ensuring it wouldn’t shift during transport. The knots were tightly made, and the setup was stable, preventing any movement. As I sat on a nearby rock, observing the entire process, I felt a profound sense of gratitude and thanked the Gods and our stars. 5 complete strangers, who had come into our lives by chance, had gone out of their way to help us in a time of need. Their willingness to assist, despite the inconvenience, reaffirmed the spirit of humanity. Although I couldn’t capture every moment of the event, I managed to take some clips and pictures. This experience would surely be a memorable chapter in our lives.

After all the effort to get Hulk onto the truck, the German travelers offered to move to the back of the truck to make space for me in the cabin. Their thoughtful gesture deeply touched both Atul and me, and we couldn’t express our gratitude enough. I recall one of their names being Gabriel, but don’t seem to remember the other name now. With the driver, Ramesh, at the wheel, Atul and I settled into the truck’s cabin. This allowed me to stretch out my injured leg and sit more comfortably. Our luggage was also loaded onto the truck’s rear, where the Germans, the shepherd, and the other passenger, who had all helped us, with Hulk (We asked names of these 5 men but except for the driver, Ramesh, and Gabriel we both don’t seem to remember their names).

By around 3 pm, our journey resumed towards Chhatru and beyond. The cab driver who had first informed Ramesh, and the other guys had become our unexpected saviors. Their kindness and willingness to help in such a challenging situation made them unforgettable figures in our lives. So, our Spiti adventure transitioned from traveling with Hulk to a truck/lorry.

This was my first experience traveling in a truck. The ride was a bit bumpy, and we could feel the bumps and rocks very distinctly and not to mention the slow pace of a truck. Not that I was in any manner in a state to complain but this was the exact experience. I kept my left leg stretched out to rest as much as possible. Atul struck up conversations with the driver, which helped pass the time. We arrived in Chhatru around 3:45 pm, the first proper village we had encountered that day. Nestled among towering mountain ranges, Chhatru is the starting point to several Himalayan treks. Ramesh stopped here for a quick lunch, and Atul and I were starving after a day filled with stress and disappointment. The local dhabas offered simple, homemade food, and since the options were limited, we had rice and chana masala. I chose to stay inside the truck to finish my lunch while Atul joined the driver and other passengers in the dhaba for their meal. I needed to use the restroom before we continued, and Atul helped me in getting down and climbing the truck. Moving with an injured leg was painful, but the break was necessary. After a 20-30 mins stop, we all returned to the truck and continued our journey towards Gramphu.

The scenery was breathtaking, with towering mountain ranges, shepherds watching after their flocks of sheep and dogs, wild horses grazing on lush green grass, and the Chenab river flowing alongside. I tried to click some photos to pass the time. However, the stunning landscape could not fully captivate us, as both Atul and I were preoccupied with troubling thoughts. We were anxious about whether we would find another vehicle to Manali, how we would transport Hulk to Chandigarh, when we could return to Delhi, and eventually to Bangalore. We were also grappling with why everything had gone so wrong. Despite our restless minds, we maintained a strong front to support each other. As time went by, our journey continued through winding trail roads, crossing numerous water streams, and enjoying the beautiful views.

By 6 pm, we arrived in Gramphu, the junction where the highway splits towards Leh and Manali. Here, Ramesh would drop us and Hulk, and we needed to transfer Hulk to another vehicle heading towards Manali. Numerous vehicles were lined up by the roadside. Ramesh and Atul went to find one willing to help. A young man, not very serious about the situation but our only option, agreed to transport Hulk for Rs 1000, to which Atul agreed. It took about 30 mins to transfer Hulk from one truck to another. Fortunately, both trucks had similar rear heights, making the move easier. However, the way Hulk was secured with the new truck’s hooks seemed a bit flimsy and loose. Despite this, the team did their best to secure Hulk as much as possible. With the transfer complete, it was time to say goodbye to Ramesh and the others. Atul and I expressed our immense gratitude for their selfless help. When Atul asked how much we owed Ramesh, he declined immediately. Atul forcefully gave him Rs 2000 of which he returned Rs 1000 and told to give it to the other truck driver upon reaching Manali. He advised us to save the money for Hulk’s repairs and transportation. Atul took his number for future reference, and we both waved him goodbye, feeling reassured that good people still exist.

By 6:30 pm, our second chapter to reach Manali began. The young man who agreed to help seemed uninterested, but given he was our only option, we chose not to make a fuss. If he had declined, we would have been in serious trouble. Manali was still 51 kms away (Atal Tunnel either didn’t exist yet or was under construction, crossing Rohtang Pass was our only route). It was one of Atul’s dreams to cross Rohtang Pass on our own bike and take a picture at the summit, but that dream would have to wait for another time.

The roads were in poor condition, with numerous twists and switchbacks causing Hulk to sway back and forth like a pendulum. In the main cabin, there was the driver, Atul, and me. There was another person who needed a lift and he was standing on the rear side of the truck’s body. Atul asked him to keep an eye on the bike and alert us immediately if anything seemed wrong. We could only see Hulk through a tiny rear window from the cabin. The 51 kms to Manali felt like eternity and the longest stretch till date. As the day turned to dusk, my ankle pain worsened, and I counted every passing meter and minute until we reached Manali. I continuously prayed to all my gods to help us reach Manali safe and sound. Meanwhile, the young driver played music at full volume, but I was too numb to hear it, lost in my own discomfort and anxiety.

We kept going ahead, navigating through roads in poor condition, with gravel, bumps, water puddles, and narrow stretches where it seemed impossible for two vehicles to pass. As it grew darker, we didn’t even notice when we crossed the Rohtang Pass summit. The driver then asked if we wanted tea or something to eat. We declined, but he decided to take a short 10-mins tea break, which we agreed to. Hulk was all ok till now. While we waited, Atul tried to find accommodation in Manali, but the poor network made it impossible to browse the internet. Eventually, the driver returned, and we resumed our journey. Atul requested him to stop near a good hotel once we were somewhere near Manali.

Around 9:30 pm, after crossing the whole of the mighty and treacherous Rohtang Pass, we reached the outskirts of Manali. We spotted a property called Hotel Him Shakti, which seemed decent and was conveniently located next to the highway. Atul quickly asked the driver to stop and checked the availability of rooms. Finding one open, we decided to stay there. Atul explained our situation to the hotel staff, who immediately offered us a room on the ground floor to accommodate my situation. Some of the hotel staff even helped Atul unload Hulk from the truck. We took our luggage, and Atul assisted me in settling into the room while he went to park Hulk safely.

The hotel staff and Atul pushed Hulk into a secure spot. Due to the constant movement on Rohtang Pass, the side stand of Hulk had become badly bent, making it unstable. Atul used stones to support the side stand and tied Hulk with ropes to hooks on a wall, ensuring it stood firmly. Once everything was secured, Atul paid the other driver Rs 1000 as promised and thanked him for his assistance before he took his leave.

The room at Hotel Him Shakti cost us Rs 1200 per night for a deluxe AC accommodation. It was spacious and had a clean bathroom. Upon entering the room, Atul placed an order for dinner—simple dal chawal and omelet. I decided to take a cautious shower and once finished, Atul helped me settle onto the bed. He applied Volini to my ankle again and wrapped it with a crepe bandage. Despite this, the swelling remained prominent, and movement was still very painful. It may be because of the tiring journey and limping whenever I needed to walk. After Atul took his shower and freshened up, our dinner arrived. We ate and decided to call it a day. It had been a long, exhausting, and stressful day for both of us. However, we were relieved that we had reached Manali with Hulk. Although we were upset, we understood that accepting the situation and focusing on the next steps was necessary. It was undoubtedly better to sleep on a bed than to be stranded in an unfamiliar place or leave Hulk behind in a desolate area. While Hulk might just be a machine to some, for us, he is a crucial part of our lives.

By around 11 pm, we attempted to sleep. Before that, Atul mentioned that he planned to stay an extra day in Manali. He would look for arrangements to transport Hulk to a service center in Chandigarh and to find a doctor to examine my ankle.

[nandita_bayan21]

Day 13 till our return to Bangalore (Manali > Chandigarh > Delhi > Bangalore)

Day 13 – 9 Sept 2019 – at Manali

Our day began around 7:30 am. Atul had barely slept through the night, busy reaching out to all possible contacts via WhatsApp and Facebook groups. Fortunately, our mobile network was restored, and we had full coverage. I called home to update them on our situation. My fever had spiked during the night, likely due to the cold-water crossings from the previous days, and the swelling around my ankle showed no signs of relief. The pain was still nagging and irritating me. As planned, we would stay here today—I would rest while Atul worked on arranging for Hulk's towing to Chandigarh. The hotel was ideally situated away from the main Manali city and its crowd, with the Beas river flowing nearby. The constant, soothing roar of the river added a refreshing background.

After freshening up, Atul ordered breakfast—bread toast, omelet, aloo paratha, and tea. While waiting for the food, he checked on Hulk, it was all fine and still properly parked. We ate our breakfast, after which I went to rest for the day while Atul continued his search for towing assistance. He posted on WhatsApp groups, Facebook, Instagram, and even his Versys India group. Although many people offered help, their quotes were too exorbitant. He also contacted the Kawasaki RSA in Chandigarh but they were asking for a whole lot of money and they would be able to send a tow truck only after 2 days which was not going to work with us. Nevertheless, between all this, we decided to skip lunch as I was not very hungry and Atul didn’t want to order food just for himself, also the breakfast was quite enough to satiate our hunger till evening.

By 5:30 pm, Atul received final confirmation from a person named Arun Sharma in Shimla. Arun had seen Atul’s post in the Facebook group ‘Ladakh Return’ and offered to tow Hulk from Manali to Chandigarh. We later learned that Arun had been assisting many stranded travelers/bikers in and around HP and Ladakh. He quoted Rs 12,000 for the service, which Atul found quite reasonable as compared to other folks. Atul and Arun discussed the plan over the phone. Arun’s brother, Tarun, would drive from Shimla overnight and, by around 6 am, would arrive in Manali to load Hulk onto his pick-up truck. We would then depart with our luggage. To ensure the safety of our saddle bags, helmets, riding gear, and camera equipment, we didn’t want to leave them in the pick-up unattended. Tarun offered to take us in the front seat of his Bolero pick-up truck, but there was a catch: Punjab police regulations required that we get off from the vehicle before entering Punjab, as three people couldn’t sit in the front seat of a pick-up truck. We decided to focus on getting Hulk to Chandigarh first and would address our own travel arrangements later. I spent most of the day sleeping, watching TV, and scrolling through my mobile. It was a much-needed break to recover from the previous day's setbacks and to start fresh.

With most arrangements in place, Atul decided to step out around 6:30 pm to withdraw cash for paying the tow vehicle and our expenses. To cheer me up, he brought back some mutton momo. We ordered tea from the hotel. Surprisingly, my swelling had reduced slightly, and the pain was somewhat lessened, though I was still limping, and the affected area remained red. Atul chose to handle all the packing for the trip the next morning while I rested. I insisted on not seeing a doctor in Manali, preferring to wait until I could get a proper examination done once we reached Delhi. With everything set, I could only watch as Atul took care of the packing and preparations all by himself. By 8 pm, Atul ordered dinner—aloo jeera, roti, chawal, and dal. After a 30-mins wait, the food arrived. We ate, freshened up, and went to bed around 10 pm. Another stressful and tiring day awaited us tomorrow.

Day 14 – 10 Sept 2019 – Manali to Chandigarh

We woke up early since Tarun, the tow truck driver, had arrived in Manali from Shimla around 4:30 am. Our sleep ended when Atul's phone rang at 4:45 am with Tarun calling to inform us of his arrival. We quickly freshened up, got ready, and headed outside with our luggage. Atul first completed the check-out formalities and asked a couple of hotel staff, who were now awake, to help lift Hulk onto the tow truck. They agreed, and I watched from a bench to observe the complete process. Not that I could help much with a twisted ankle. It took nearly 30 mins and considerable effort from four people to lift Hulk onto the truck. Once in place, the bike was secured with strong ropes to minimize movement during transport.

Once Atul was satisfied that Hulk was securely loaded and safe, he thanked everyone who had helped us and bid farewell to the hotel staff. By 6 am, Atul and I settled into the passenger seat of Tarun’s Bolero pick-up truck, and we began the next phase of our journey. This is how now our Spiti odyssey transitioned from Hulk to lorry to a pick-up vehicle.

It was a pleasant day with the sun peeking through a clear blue morning sky. Although the front seat was a bit cramped for three people and the ride wasn’t very comfortable, we managed. Tarun, who seemed kind and friendly, engaged in endless conversations with Atul. I sat by the window, stretching my leg as much as possible to avoid sudden movements. Despite the lingering pain and redness, I could walk a bit better, though I was careful not to put too much pressure on my leg. As Atul and Tarun chatted, I enjoyed the views of the Beas River on the left, the lush green mountains, and the highway snaking through twists and turns. We passed through Kullu, Bhuntar, and several smaller towns and villages.

Around 8:30 am, we made a quick breakfast stop just after Bhuntar—simple aloo paratha and tea. We continued our journey, crossing the famous Pandoh Dam on the Beas river before reaching Mandi. After that, we arrived at Sundernagar and its beautiful lake. Traffic was light, and we only encountered minor delays near the markets in Mandi and Sundernagar. Tarun drove carefully, given that Hulk was behind us and I had an injury. Around 12:30 pm, we reached Ghaghas after covering 155 kms, where Tarun would turn left to head to Chandigarh via a shorter route avoiding major traffic areas such as Bilaspur and Swarghat. We would get off here as we were nearing the Punjab state border. Once Tarun left, Atul and I hoped that our belongings and Hulk would reach Chandigarh safely.

Our next challenge was figuring out how to get to Chandigarh. Atul tried booking cabs and inquired with several drivers standing by the roadside, but the fares were exorbitant. One driver even quoted Rs 6,000 for the trip to Chandigarh. Given the uncertainty on the amount needed for Hulk’s service costs, we couldn’t afford such a high fare. A local suggested taking a Punjab State Transport bus, which frequently travels this route to Chandigarh. Although Atul was initially hesitant about having me travel by local bus, I reassured him that it would be a fine experience and a bit of an adventure. After waiting for about 10 mins, we boarded a Punjab State Transport bus heading to Chandigarh around 1 pm. It was another mode of transport added to our journey—starting with Hulk, then a lorry/truck, followed by a pick-up vehicle, and now a bus.

We got a seat as the bus was empty. Unfortunately, the wooden seats didn’t have much cushioning, and the ride was quite bumpy due to the poor road conditions. To make matters worse, the weather had suddenly turned warm, and we could feel the afternoon heat. Despite these discomforts, I started to feel sleepy. Atul couldn’t understand how I could sleep so peacefully given the heat, the rough ride, and the hard seats. I was exhausted and just wanted to relax. The bus made a stop at Bilaspur for lunch, and we got off to grab a bite. I managed to limp towards a roadside dhaba and ordered two veg thalis (roti, dal, chawal, and some sabzi). I was very hungry and quickly devoured the food. Atul also picked up some snacks and a water bottle for the rest of the journey. By the way, we kept a bag with us containing our laptops and camera gear. Also, the fare for the bus was Rs 120 per person.

After a challenging and adventurous journey of 130 kms, we finally arrived at the Chandigarh bus station around 4:45 pm. Without wasting any time, Atul quickly booked an Uber to take us to the Kawasaki service center, which was about 3 kms away. As soon as the cab arrived, we jumped in, and within 10 mins, we reached the service center. To our relief, Hulk had already arrived there, and Tarun had called Atul to confirm his arrival. After all the struggles, hardships, and stress, Hulk was now in good hands and would soon be ready to hit the road again. To our surprise, Tarun’s brother Arun, who had initially contacted Atul, was also present. He had traveled from Shimla to oversee everything.

This time, unloading Hulk went quickly with the help of the service center staff. They began an initial examination to assess the possible damages, though a thorough diagnosis would only be possible once Hulk was fully inspected. Meanwhile, Atul settled the bills with Arun and Tarun, expressing our gratitude for their immense help and prompt assistance. After exchanging our farewells and completing the formalities, both of us took our leave.

While I rested inside the service center, Atul spoke with the staff about Hulk's condition. They confirmed that the clutch plates were completely worn out and needed replacement, which also required changing the oil filter and engine oil. Unfortunately, they didn’t have the spare clutch plates in stock and would need to order them from Pune, which would take about 1 - 1.5 weeks. The estimated cost for the repairs would be around Rs 30,000+. The service center staff were friendly and provided detailed explanations, assuring us that Hulk would be in good condition once repaired. With no immediate tasks at hand, Atul decided we would stay in Chandigarh for the night and head to Delhi the following morning, where we’d spend some time before returning once Hulk was ready. Atul booked a room at a nearby hotel, Hotel Maurya, about 6 kms away. We took a cab to the hotel, which was an old OYO property. The cost was Rs 1,316 per night for a Deluxe AC room with breakfast included. The room was spacious and had a clean bathroom, but the property itself was quite dated. Atul asked if I wanted to switch rooms or hotels, but I suggested we stay there for the night and leave early the next morning. It was around 7 pm, so we first took showers and then ordered dinner. We kept it simple again—roti, chawal, and paneer masala.

Before we retired for the night, Atul booked an out-station Ola cab for our journey to Delhi. The fare was approximately Rs 2,500, and the cab was scheduled to arrive by 8:30 am the following morning. By 10 pm, both of us were in bed, looking forward to heading home to my brother’s place. It was a great relief to know that we would soon be with family.

Day 15 – 11 Sept 2019 – Chandigarh to Delhi

We woke up around 7 am, refreshed and packed up all our belongings—saddle bags, top case, helmets, and other essentials like cameras. We asked the hotel staff if breakfast was available, and they kindly provided us with tea, bread toast, and an omelet. By the time we finished breakfast and completed the check-out formalities, it was 8:15 am. Atul received a call from the cab driver, who said he was on his way and would arrive in about 15 mins. We gathered our things and waited downstairs for the cab. Atul also bandaged my ankle, applying Volini to help ease any discomfort during the journey. The cab, an Ertiga, arrived within 10 mins. We loaded our luggage into the vehicle, and Atul chose the front passenger seat so I could stretch my leg and relax. The driver, Sonu, was a friendly, talkative, and well-mannered person. By 8:45 am, we began the almost final leg of our journey to Delhi, marking the transition from our Spiti odyssey—from Hulk to lorry, pick-up vehicle, local bus, and now, a cab.

The journey of about 260 kms was quite comfortable, thanks to the spacious, air-conditioned cab. We enjoyed meaningful and sometimes joyous conversations with Sonu Paji. Although he spoke mostly in Punjabi and we responded in Hindi, language was never a barrier. We followed NH44, passing through Ambala, Kurukshetra, Karnal, Panipat, and other towns. Around 1 pm, we reached Murthal. Sonu Paji suggested we have lunch there and took a U-turn to stop at the famous Shiva Dhaba across the highway. We ordered the usual tandoori aloo pyaz paratha; Atul opted for lassi, and I chose a piping hot tea. Sonu Paji joined us for the meal. After we finished, we continued our journey towards Dwarka, Delhi.

As soon as we entered Delhi, we were met with massive traffic jams at multiple points. Despite the congestion, we finally arrived at my brother’s home in Dwarka around 3:30 pm. I was so relieved to see my mother that I gave her a tight hug. Atul settled the bill with Sonu Pajji and unloaded all our luggage. We bid goodbye to him; Atul saved his number for any future needs. Entering the house felt like a slice of heaven. My brother was at work, so we would catch up with him later in the evening. The first thing I did was take a refreshing shower to escape the extreme Delhi heat. Once I was relaxed, Atul also freshened up, and the three of us gathered to recount the saga of the past four days. My mother was eager to hear every detail, having been constantly worried about us. She was relieved to hear our story. Although she wanted to prepare lunch for us, we declined, still full of our meal at Shiva Dhaba. Time flew by during our conversation, and before we knew it, it was 5:30 pm. Mom made coffee for us, and while we enjoyed these cherished moments at home, my brother returned. We repeated our tale for him as well.

The tough phase was behind us, and being home was a blissful relief. All that remained was waiting for Hulk to be repaired and eventually return to Bangalore. After all the chit-chat, it was time for dinner around 9:30 pm. Mother had prepared a meal of dal, chawal, pork and chicken fry, and salad. After dinner, she applied an ice pack to my ankle to soothe and speed up the healing process. My brother had already scheduled an appointment at the nearby Manipal Hospital for an x-ray and check-up. Though the intense pain and swelling had diminished, some discomfort still lingered. By around 11 pm, we all decided to go to bed. I hoped that both Atul and I would sleep well, and indeed, we did. It felt wonderful to be home.

Day 16 – Day 29 (16 Sept to 25 Sept) – at Delhi

For the next two weeks, we stayed in Delhi to handle a few important matters. Key highlights from our time there included the following:

After reaching Delhi on 15 Sept, we went to the nearby Manipal hospital to have my ankle examined. My brother had already scheduled an appointment with an orthopedic specialist for the following day, and Atul assisted me in getting there. The doctor examined my ankle and provided some relief by suggesting it didn’t appear to be a fracture but rather a ligament tear. However, he could only confirm this after reviewing the x-ray results. He recommended 10-15 days of complete rest along with medication and regular application of ointments. The healing process would take about 4-6 weeks. He instructed us to get an x-ray and return the next day. The x-ray confirmed a ligament tear in my left ankle. The doctor applied a soft cast and brace to my ankle, which could be removed after 7-10 days if I felt better. He advised continued use of ice packs, application of ointments and sprays, and to rest as much as possible, avoiding any strain on the leg.

While waiting for Hulk to be fully repaired, Atul and I had several interview calls and meetings lined up in the Delhi-NCR region. While I requested rescheduling or conduct interviews via phone due to my leg, Atul began attending some of them. Since we planned to move to Delhi in a month, it was crucial to start preparing for interviews and secure some opportunities. Atul received confirmations from a couple of the interviews, while I scheduled mine for dates after September 20, once my leg was in better condition.

Around 1 week later, on 19 Sept, Atul received a call from the Kawasaki service center in Chandigarh, informing him that Hulk was ready for pickup. Atul decided to go alone that night to bring back Hulk. He booked a bus to Chandigarh and also a room at a budget hotel near the service center so he could go there directly when it opened in the morning, settle the bills, and then head home. Atul boarded the bus at Kashmere Gate around 11 pm and arrived in Chandigarh by 3:30 am, with a brief stop for snacks and restroom breaks along the way. He took an auto to the hotel, carrying a backpack and the topcase with his helmet, riding gear, boots and gloves. After getting some rest, he reached the service center by 10:30 am. Hulk seemed to be in excellent condition after all the work was done, and Atul did a delivery test to ensure everything was functioning properly. After settling the bills and thanking the service center staff, he geared up and rode straight back to Delhi. By 5 pm, he was back home.

Once Atul returned, we agreed that riding Hulk back to Bangalore wasn’t practical. With our upcoming plan to move to Delhi in a month and the need to transport three vehicles—Skiddy, the car, and Bumble, the Dio—it made more sense to leave Hulk parked at my brother’s place. Atul found a secure spot in my brother’s parking lot and parked Hulk there. He covered Hulk with a bike cover to protect it from dust and dirt. Both of us were greatly relieved that Hulk was in good condition and ready to hit the road again.

Over the next 15 days, my ankle situation improved, allowing me to walk but slowly. I decided it was time to schedule a few face-to-face interviews. Atul took me to Gurgaon once and to Noida another time for these meetings, using cabs for the travel. Both interviews went well, and I was nearly confirmed for the position in Gurgaon (this is the same company where I worked for 2 years and faced the worst professional experience ever. For more details, you can visit my Pithoragarh and Munsyari travelogue). Nonetheless, not that I knew what would have happened in the future but for now I was pleased to have secured a job in NCR, giving an affirmation and confidence to us on our shifting plans. We requested a one-month delay in the joining dates to allow us time for the relocation.

During these two weeks, our days were filled with attending interviews, enjoying delicious home-cooked meals, and focusing on my ankle recovery with exercises prescribed by the doctor and physio. We also watched TV, read books, scrolled through social media, and made sure to get plenty of rest. We knew that once we returned to Bangalore, we would be busy winding up so many things in just 3-4 weeks, leaving little time for relaxation. On 21 Sept, Atul and I celebrated our 3rd wedding anniversary. It was a simple but memorable one, a cake baked by Mom and dinner at Pind Balluchi with my mother and brother.

One of the final tasks before leaving Delhi was to find a rental place in Dwarka. This would allow us to move directly to our new home rather than making a detour to my brother’s place. Given the amount of household items we had, his home wouldn’t be able to accommodate everything. Therefore, securing a rental flat was the best option. For two days, Atul, my brother, and I searched for available properties nearby. We eventually settled on a 2BHK flat in Dwarka. The owners, a pleasant couple, agreed to the deal after a thorough negotiation involving Atul, my brother, and them. The flat was in a well-maintained gated community with markets and essential services nearby. We finalized the rent agreement at a local civil court, with both parties signing the documents. With this arrangement, we now had a new home ready for our move to Delhi.

Day 30 – 26 Sept – Delhi to Bangalore

After spending two weeks in Delhi with my mother and brother, it was time for us to return to Bangalore. A couple of days prior, with most of our tasks completed, Atul had booked our flight for 26 Sept at 11:30 am. My ankle had nearly recovered, Hulk was safely parked at my brother’s place, and we had wrapped up most of our responsibilities in Delhi. On the morning of our departure, we woke up around 7:30 am, refreshed, and packed only the essentials, leaving behind travel items such as saddlebags, tank bags, top case, and camera equipment at my brother’s home. Mom prepared a simple breakfast of bread toast, omelet, and coffee. Atul had arranged for a cab to pick us up at 9 am, which arrived a little early. After saying our goodbyes to my brother and mother with a promise to return within a month, we left for the airport.

We reached the airport by 10 am, completed the check-in and boarding procedures, and at exactly 11:30 am, our Air Asia flight took off from Delhi, heading to Bangalore. This marked the final leg of our Spiti Odyssey—starting with Hulk, then a lorry, pick-up truck, local bus, cab, and finally a flight. I hope this travelogue’s title now makes complete sense. We landed in Bangalore around 2:15 pm and were home by 4 pm. It felt wonderful to open the door and step into our home sweet home. Thus, ending our Spiti travel —HOME TO HOME!

With the joy of exploring new places, traveling to Spiti for the first time from Bangalore on Hulk, and making countless memories, we experienced a journey filled with highs and lows. From Hulk’s breakdown and my ankle injury to testing our endurance and maintaining faith that everything would be alright, these moments have been unforgettable. This trip has taught us to appreciate nature, be prepared for challenges, stay calm during difficulties, trust our instincts, and be grateful to those who support us in tough times.

Upon returning home, we spent the next 19-20 days organizing our belongings, preparing for the move, and booking packers and movers to transport everything, including the Dio. With Hulk already in Delhi, our plan was to drive Skiddy from Bangalore to Delhi. We also made time to catch up with friends, revisit favorite restaurants and places, and take care of numerous tasks. Ultimately, we completed our move from Bangalore to Delhi on October 14, 2019.

The last video from the Spiti series

https://youtu.be/YTnGFT-WPnU?si=tfdlQM4vEVrGhLrS

[nandita_bayan21]

Ending note:

Please consider these few things while reading this travelogue:

First, this is a travelogue of a road trip that we took 5 years ago. Since then, many aspects such as road conditions, weather, mobile network and internet connectivity, food and restaurants, and hotel rates may have changed significantly. Considering the time duration and the impact of events like COVID-19, please bear in mind that some details may differ from the current situation.

Second, you might wonder how I recall such intricate details from five years ago. As some of you in the TeamBHP community may know from my previous travelogues, I carry a notebook with me on all my trips (I’m old school and prefer writing things down rather than relying on an app). I jot down everything from wake-up times to our arrival at various places, along with rates, fees, and other important details. I still had my Spiti notes, which I tucked inside one of my favorite books, Ikigai. This has helped me recall and recount each detail almost accurately, for you to read and imagine the trip we embarked on.

On the final note, completing this travelogue has been an emotional journey for me. I’ve had it on my mind for five years, and Atul has persistently encouraged me to finish it. Despite his support, I struggled to find the motivation to write. I managed to document up to Day 7 but then set it aside, unable to bring myself to continue. The emotional weight of the setbacks during this trip made it difficult to revisit those moments. During our trip to Pithoragarh and Munsyari, Atul made me promise to resume logging my travelogues on TeamBHP. He encouraged me to revisit and complete the unfinished Spiti travelogue once I felt ready. And here I am, finally finishing it. This completion feels like a significant weight lifted off my chest, a partial closure. Perhaps I’ll find full closure when we complete the Spiti circuit again on Hulk. The plan is on and we need to execute it soon.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this blog and experiencing the journey through my words. Until my next travelogue, see you all soon. Thanks for reading!

[graaja]

Moving thread from Assembly Line to Travelogues.

Thank you for sharing this wonderful experience.

[catchjyoti]

Well well well! Look who is back - it is Nandita Bayan!
I used to read your travelogues fondly and loved the way you wrote.
But then you disappeared without a trace.
Now that you are back, keep them coming. Don't pull a Houdini act again!

[R-Six]

Absolutely wonderful write up! And amazing pictures as usual. Thanks again for sharing!

As you mentioned, we often hesitate to remember or revisit their setbacks in life. But I have noticed that often that might act up as a baggage too. I hope that jotting down the experience and sharing the about the anxious hours of waiting and dealing with the pain would have helped you feel a bit lighter.

Looking forward to the your next trip to the mountains!

Ride Safe,
R-Six

[shyamg28]

Now that was quite an experience! Wow!

My sincerest respect for your courage, patience and endurance. Physical struggles are real but those mental devils - they can take over easily and I must say, you both fought through it all!

Kudos! Keep 'em coming!

[mack.mehul]

That is really I would call a very gutsy kind of ride.. On a bike all the way from bangalore to spiti. It's too long a distance to cover on bike & I really admire the riding skills of you both that you managed such a long distance on a bike! However the spiti route is such there are bound to be mechanical problems in your car or bike based on what many people in my circle have told me. On seeing the travelogues of travel to spiti, I really want to visit spiti however I will wait till I buy a SUV to visit Spiti because in sedans, this route is better avoided.

[cule1899_bhp]

Thank you for penning and sharing this great travelogue. Appreciate all the details, captivating photos, and inspiring stories.

[Kottayamkaran]

Superb travelogue. I was a big fan of your travelogues before joining Team-Bhp. Your adventures with the Versys 650 have made it almost a dream adventure bike for me.

[Buzzard_storme]

I read this whole thing in one go!

I'm spellbound - sometimes the human endurance is just something we don't appreciate that much!

All that happens, happens for good! You would've done many more trips since this and you've made many memories since this but remember you have a great storyline of human persistence and endurance to tell to your kids, their kids and their kids!

Happy Travels

[Hayek]

Amazing travelogue - made me feel that I was there watching every move. Hats off to you for the guts to undertake such an expedition, your ability to cope with adversity and the crisp language with which you have detailed everything. Do hope to read a lot more from you on Team BHP. Best wishes.

[Jignesh]

Wow!

That is a well (remembered) and written Travelogue.

The details with you are able to narrate the things you both experienced 5 years back, is remarkable.
The best part I loved to read were the fact people were kind enough to help you at a remote location without taking any undue advantage and both of yours successful move to another city.

Myself, living in a European country the thoughts of ageing parents always remain on back of our minds and seeing both of you deciding move to Delhi (despite knowing the disadvantages, compared to Bangalore) surely makes me emotional.

Thank you for the wonderful narration and wish you all the very best.

[nandita_bayan21]

Originally Posted by catchjyoti

Well well well! Look who is back - it is Nandita Bayan!
I used to read your travelogues fondly and loved the way you wrote.
But then you disappeared without a trace.
Now that you are back, keep them coming. Don't pull a Houdini act again!

Thanks, it feels good to know that you guys did miss us and really loved our travel experiences. Life demanded a pause at that time so we went by it. Anyway, we will try to be as regular as possible from now on.

Originally Posted by R-Six

Absolutely wonderful write up! And amazing pictures as usual. Thanks again for sharing!

As you mentioned, we often hesitate to remember or revisit their setbacks in life. But I have noticed that often that might act up as a baggage too. I hope that jotting down the experience and sharing the about the anxious hours of waiting and dealing with the pain would have helped you feel a bit lighter.

Looking forward to the your next trip to the mountains!

Ride Safe,
R-Six

Thanks a ton Binoy. And yes, jotting down each and every details brought back memories but it lightened the weight too.

Originally Posted by shyamg28

Now that was quite an experience! Wow!

My sincerest respect for your courage, patience and endurance. Physical struggles are real but those mental devils - they can take over easily and I must say, you both fought through it all!

Kudos! Keep 'em coming!

Thanks a lot, Shyam.

Originally Posted by mack.mehul

That is really I would call a very gutsy kind of ride.. On a bike all the way from bangalore to spiti. It's too long a distance to cover on bike & I really admire the riding skills of you both that you managed such a long distance on a bike! However the spiti route is such there are bound to be mechanical problems in your car or bike based on what many people in my circle have told me. On seeing the travelogues of travel to spiti, I really want to visit spiti however I will wait till I buy a SUV to visit Spiti because in sedans, this route is better avoided.

We have done quite a few bike rides from Bangalore - Rajasthan and Gujarat, North-east for some 26 odd days, and then all the way up to Amritsar. So we are pretty used to these long distance travels on bikes (first on KTM D390 and now on Versys 650). Also, the road conditions now in Spiti is much better as compared to what we faced 5 years back - so the terrain can't be considered as dangerous as before. We are planning for a ride there again soon.

Originally Posted by cule1899_bhp

Thank you for penning and sharing this great travelogue. Appreciate all the details, captivating photos, and inspiring stories.

Thanks a lot for appreciating the travelogue.

Originally Posted by Kottayamkaran

Superb travelogue. I was a big fan of your travelogues before joining Team-Bhp. Your adventures with the Versys 650 have made it almost a dream adventure bike for me.

Thank you so much!

Originally Posted by Buzzard_storme

I read this whole thing in one go!

I'm spellbound - sometimes the human endurance is just something we don't appreciate that much!

All that happens, happens for good! You would've done many more trips since this and you've made many memories since this but remember you have a great storyline of human persistence and endurance to tell to your kids, their kids and their kids!

Happy Travels

Thanks for appreciating the travelogue.

Originally Posted by Hayek

Amazing travelogue - made me feel that I was there watching every move. Hats off to you for the guts to undertake such an expedition, your ability to cope with adversity and the crisp language with which you have detailed everything. Do hope to read a lot more from you on Team BHP. Best wishes.

Thank you so much for liking and appreciating the travelogue.

Originally Posted by Jignesh

Wow!

That is a well (remembered) and written Travelogue.

The details with you are able to narrate the things you both experienced 5 years back, is remarkable.
The best part I loved to read were the fact people were kind enough to help you at a remote location without taking any undue advantage and both of yours successful move to another city.

Myself, living in a European country the thoughts of ageing parents always remain on back of our minds and seeing both of you deciding move to Delhi (despite knowing the disadvantages, compared to Bangalore) surely makes me emotional.

Thank you for the wonderful narration and wish you all the very best.

Thanks for appreciating the travelogue, Jignesh. And yes, moving to Delhi was tough but we both are learning and enjoying our experiences here each day.