[dhanushmenon]

Mr D’s Daughter and the Seeds to a Travelogue

It would have never seen the light of another day, had it not been for the inquisitiveness of Mr D’s daughter. The little one, on a fine morning, still learning the ropes of a laptop, blessed the screen saver with a splendid spread from Zuluk.



Peeping from the darkness of my garage, I could see Mr D insatiably devouring the snaps. The gleam in his eyes translated to an upward curve on my lips; in jubilant hope that he will finally shake out his lethargy and pen in a travelogue at least now. Only to be disappointed the very next minute as he gleefully plonked himself on the bed for his precious siesta.

Within minutes, his resonating snore made it amply clear as to who would eventually have to pen the travelogue. His motivation level and perseverance is pretty miniscule. Much like the grey matter within his crowning baldness, that barely borders in the region of ‘traces’.

Oops! I forgot to Introduce myself

Well, before we get any further, I guess I should introduce myself. I am Mr D's XUV. The ill-fated assembly of metal parts that has been cursed to wrench its oil slick faculties to churn out creativity on a travelogue (time and again).



This is not the first time I am writing a travelogue. I have been reluctantly dragged into this ordeal earlier too:-
1. Vizag to North East Road trip
2. My Autobiography
3. From Vizag to the Western Ghats
4. Kochi to Vizag through the hinterlands
5. Kochi to Coorg
6. Kochi to Bhutan

Note:- For those desiring to jump directly into the meat of the matter, links to the various sections of this thread are provided in post #3

Disclaimer: -

1. At the outset, may I humbly submit and apologise that this travelogue comes more than a year and a half late. Please spare me from your swords.
The reason for delay? Mr D of course (who else?).

2. This has been scraped out from my rusty memory- I raise my hands already if some important points are not adequately covered or if some rules have changed over passage of time. Please check latest inputs while you plan your trip.

This therefore, is both descriptive and deductive, with no claim to be the last word.

[dhanushmenon]

My Master, Mr D and his ‘Virtues’

It’s futile to motivate Mr D to salvage some pride and write his own stories. Mr D is lazy, lazier than the guy who created the Japanese flag; and a shameless one at that. I first tested my awful vocabulary skills back in 2014; when I had to write my own ownership report.

Later, out of desperation, as I started penning travelogues too, Mr D shamelessly converted himself into a permanent furniture in front of the TV. Since then, he has grown more face to wash than hair to comb and also contributed generously to his expanding waistline. Like they say:- “He loves his six pack so much that he protects it with a layer of fat”. The perfect example of “Waistline goes for a walk, hairline can’t catch up!!”.

The Journey and a Non-Existent Travelogue

In the summer of 2018, we almost drew a diagonal across the country and ventured to the pristine Bhutan and Sikkim from Kochi. Mr D’s laziness is only in dedicating his time on penning a travelogue. Not in planning the trip. You should see him during his research phase- like a man possessed, he plans everything to the T. Routes, alternate routes, departure time, where to eat, what to eat, which precise hotel to stay, what all to carry, contact numbers, fuelling halts, check off lists, spread sheets and everything in between. In addition to Plan A and plan B, he usually has Plan C, Plan D, Plan E and then some more.

Route followed : -

(Note:- Though the route above shows our complete route from Kochi- Bhutan- Sikkim and back to Kochi, in this report I shall venture into only the Sikkim part. The part of journey where we treaded Bhutan, was reported here earlier).

However, as much as one can keep preaching to him till the cows come home; he was not going to put his fingers to the keyboard. Therefore, I did my bit and chipped in a travelogue of Bhutan. By the time I wrapped that up, I realised that I had ran out of both- lexicon and the patience to type any further. I shamelessly looked aside when the Sikkim part of the journey glanced at me. Slowly, the plans of another travelogue and any remnant strands of motivation faded to oblivion.

Truth be said, the beauty that Sikkim is, it deserves its share on a travelogue. Therefore, gulping my pride, here I am, yet again to torment you with my deplorable language skills and equally distressful narration. Yet again, in an attempt that I know I will fail in- creating sense in a sentence.
After all, there's a limit to the imagination, vocabulary and clatter of a machine, held together by nuts and bolts. Alas, there’s no point in complaining, and the above have become my constant rant in all my previous travelogues as well.

[dhanushmenon]

It was a beautiful misty morning in Sikkim. Yet, it felt like any other drive Mr D has trudged me to. While I churned out horse powers to pull through the challenging terrain, he tortured us with a discordant melody; showcasing his vocal skills, rather the lack of it. His cacophony easily dinned out Michael Jackson from the song that played in background.

Whilst MJ turned in his grave cursing Mr D’s ancestry, the latter clipped on relentless, with his best (yet futile) attempts to match a chord or two. Believe me, Mr D’s vocal skills are nothing great to write home about. Amidst the din, I’d say that we barely managed to survive.
Boy! I should say, he was born with the gift of blissful ignorance; and the sense that the world was deaf!

To shut out the clatter, I gazed at the road that stretched ahead of us. I soon realised that the heart-warming natural beauty that spread around us was more welcoming and less scary than the ruction within the car.



Though the terrain of Bhutan was similar to Sikkim, the road conditions were definitely not. Thanks to GPS errors and abysmal navigation skills of Mr D, we treaded some uncharted roads, broken roads, no roads, network black out zones, slush fest and some more during our drive in this lovely state.



The natural beauty of the place greatly compensates for the stretches of broken tarmac (and non-existent slush pit roads) and sweeps you away in a blink. Quite naturally, we fell flat in love with the place and reaffirmed our abundant affection for North East India and Himalayas.



Route plan at Sikkim:-



Title Distribution

With whatever feeble strands of wisdom that I am blessed with, I have further divided the narrative into a few headings. You may click on respective link to go directly to your choice. Else you are at liberty to choose to read through the whole report. In case you chose the latter, you have been warned- there’s a limit to the capabilities of a machine; especially on a creative front.

1. Introduction and How to reach/ modes to reach.
2. Permit procedure (ILP/ PAP etc).
3. Things to do/ Places to visit- West Sikkim.
4. Things to do/ Places to visit- Gangtok and North Sikkim.
5. Things to do/ Places to visit- East Sikkim.
6. Recommended Itinerary and few things to keep in mind.
7. Then a few snaps.

[dhanushmenon]

What’s in a Name?, you may ask. Consider this:-

1. Drenjong - Tibetan name for Sikkim which means valley of rice.
2. Beyul Demazong - Bhutia name meaning hidden valley of rice.
3. Mye- mae- el - Name by Lepchas, the original inhabitants of Sikkim, meaning paradise.
4. Indrakil - Name in Hindu religious texts, meaning garden of Indra.

The origin theory of the name Sikkim is that it is a combination of two Limbu words: Su, which means "new", and Khyim, which means "palace" or "house".
According to folklore, after establishing Rabdentse as his new capital, the Bhutia King Tensung Namgyal built a palace and asked his Limbu Queen to name it.

Source:- Wikipedia

Sikkim- Some Facts

1. Kangchenjunga, the highest peak in India and third highest on Earth is located at Sikkim.
2. Capital and largest city- Gangtok.
3. Almost 35% of the state is covered by the Khangchendzonga National Park.
4. Sikkim is the least populous state in India and also has a high literacy rate.
5. The state has the only open land border between India and China.
6. Sikkim is one of the only two states in the country that has three international borders. Bhutan, China and Nepal enveloping this tiny state from all three sides. The other state being, the much bigger in size Arunachal Pradesh.
7. According to legend, the Buddhist saint Guru Rinpoche visited Sikkim in the 8th century AD and introduced Buddhism.
8. The Kingdom of Sikkim was founded by the Namgyal dynasty in 1642.
9. In 1890, it allied itself with British India as a princely state, eventually becoming a British protectorate. It was ruled by a Buddhist priest-king known as the Chogyal.
10. In 1975, a referendum abolished the Sikkimese monarchy, and the territory was merged with India.



How to Reach

One amongst the acclaimed seven sisters of North East India, Sikkim has been traditionally unexplored due to its secluded location and limited means of getting there. However, to its credit, despite its remoteness and hostile terrain, the state has a fair transportation network covering most of its regions. The best option is to reach there by road undoubtedly, due to the limitations of flights and rail network in the not so terrain friendly mountain ranges. Notwithstanding, all modes of travel are discussed below: -

1. Air

(a) Pakyong Airport situated around 30 Kms South of Gangtok is the only airport in the state of Sikkim. Inaugurated recently (on 24 Sep 18), at the 100th operational airport in the country, commercial flight operations started on 04 Oct 18. However, having been planned and designed a Visual Flight Rules (VFR) airport, sustained operations have been plagued by poor weather conditions, reduced visibility (mandatory criteria for VFR flights) and non-cooperation from local villagers. Due to the above, flight operations remain suspended since 01 Jun 19.

Although initially praised by worldwide media upon its opening as being "A breathtaking piece of engineering on the roof of the world" offering arriving passengers "one of the most dramatic airport approaches on the planet", the airports's commercial flight operations have since been disrupted by poor weather conditions affecting flight visibility. In December 2018, 21 of SpiceJet's 31 daily flights (nearly 70% of its schedule) were forced to divert to Bagdogra (up to a five-hour drive away) because Pakyong "lacked the requisite navigation equipment for low-visibility situations", being a Visual flight rule (VFR) Airport as originally planned. Currently, Pakyong requires at least 5km (5,000m) visibility. The Airports Authority of India (AAI) would like to bring this down to at least 2.5km (2,500m) with an instrument landing system (ILS), but says area residents were against it. An official in the Sikkim government cited issues that took place during the rainy season when landslides damaged small tracts of agricultural land affecting over 37 land owners of a nearby village in the uphill area.

As of June 1, 2019, SpiceJet, the airport's sole airline providing commercial passenger service, ceased its once daily Kolkata-Pakyong-Kolkata flight due to "unpredictable weather in Pakyong which results in very low visibility"

Source-Wikipedia

By the time this travelogue ages, I am certain that the operations will resume with facility and infrastructure upgradation. After all, necessity is the mother of invention!

(b) Bagdogra International Airport, located at a distance of 124 Kms from gangtok is the next closest airport and is well-connected to major cities in India. Air India, Spice Jet, Indigo, Go Air etc functions from here with frequent services.

(c) You can also reach Gangtok by availing helicopter services, which is subjected to weather conditions.

2. Train. New Jalpaiguri (188 km) and Siliguri (145 km) are the nearest railway stations to Gangtok. These railway stations are well connected with major cities and towns of India. You will have to further board a bus or hire a taxi to reach Sikkim.

3. Road. As evident from above, road is the most convenient way to reach Sikkim. Frequent public and private buses are available that connects the main cities/ towns of the state. You can also hire a taxi or jeep for your travels.

[dhanushmenon]

Good amount of valuable information about Sikkim is available on this Official website of Sikkim Tourism.

Permit procedure.

1. If your intention is just to roam around in and around Gangtok and some waterfalls nearby, you needn’t bother about permits (for Indian nationals). However, for travelling to certain regions, you will need permits (Protected Area Permit- PAP). These regions include most popular places- Nathula, Tsongmo lake, Lachen, Lachung, Gurudongmar, Yumthang, Zero Point, Kala Patthar, Zuluk etc. There are two types of permits: -

• Protected Area Permit (PAP); and
• For foreigners, Restricted Area Permit (RAP) in addition. (Previously known as Inner Line Permit).

2. For a person driving his own car, additional vehicle permit will also need to be taken on submission of copies of your car documents.

3. Important Note- Self-drive rental Cars - As far as I know, self-drive rental cars (Eg:- zoom cars, revv etc) are not allowed to be driven the Protected Areas. This also means that if you are driving in your friend’s car who is not travelling with you, you may be denied permit. The car documents submitted for permit should reflect the name of a person who is travelling in the car. This may have changed over passage of time and would be worthwhile to check before planning your trip in case you intend to self-drive a rental.

Restricted Area Permit (RAP) aka Inner Line Permit.

1. At the outset, RAP/ ILP is not required for Indian citizens to visit Sikkim.

2. Foreign nationals are not allowed to visit Nathula, Baba Mandir and Gurudongmar.

3. RAP is mandatory for foreigners which can be obtained from Sikkim Tourism Offices on the basis of a valid Indian Visa and a passport.

4. The RAP is issued free of cost by:-

(a) Ministry of Home affairs, Government of India, New Delhi.
(b) All Foreigners Registration Offices.
(c) All Indian Missions abroad.
(d) Immigration Offices at Airports at Mumbai, Kolkatta, Chennai and New Delhi.
(e) Assistant Director – Tourism Department, Sikkim House, Panchasheel Marg, New Delhi, Tourism Department, phone number : 011- 41680421/011-26115346.
(f) Assistant Director – Tourism Department , Sikkim Tourism Office, 4/1 Middleton Street, Kolkata, Phone Number : 033 22817905.
(g) Assistant Director– Tourism Department, Melli, Near Melli Police Check Post, South Sikkim, Mobile No: 9775453611, 03595-248536.
Note: RAP issuing time is from 8 am to 8 pm everyday.
(h) Assistant Director, Tourism Department, Sikkim Tourism Office, Rangpo, East Sikkim phone no: 03592-240818.
(j) Resident Commissioner, Government of Sikkim, Sikkim House, New Delhi.
(k) Deputy Commissioner, Darjeeling, West Bengal.
(l) Deputy Secretary/ Under Secretary, Home Department, Government of West Bengal, Kolkata.

5. Note:- The Nationals of Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Myanmar and Nigeria will not be issued Permit without prior approval of the Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt of India.

6. For foreigners desirous of trekking in the interior region of the state, the Tourism and Civil Aviation issues Protected Area Permit (PAP) at Gangtok. This is available for certain specified area for groups consisting of two or more foreigners subject to condition that the trekking is arranged through a registered travel agency.

Protected Area Permit (PAP)

1. All visitors including Indians require Protected Area Permit (PAP) for visiting few specific areas defined as protected areas (eg:- Tsomgo Lake, Nathula, Yumthang Valley, Gurudongmar Lake, Dzongri, Zuluk etc).

2. PAP is issued by the following: -

(a) Sikkim Tourist Department in Gangtok .
(b) The Police check posts at Gangtok and Mangan.

3. The protected areas in Sikkim and their respective permit issuing authorities are as below:-

4. Caution:- Taxi operators and local tour guides will try their bit to dissuade you from taking your own car to North Sikkim and Nathula. They will convince you that permits are issued only to authorised tour operators and personal vehicles cannot be taken to these places. Fret not. There is no rule like that and if you approach the counter, the official will not deny issuing permit to you.

5. Most people obtain permits at Gangtok; being the central location and likely to be the axis point of your stay at Sikkim. However, getting permit from Mangan is comparatively easier. The office opens at 10 AM.

6. Once you get the permit, take two copies (just in case) and keep it safely. Do get it stamped at all the check posts. Procedure for obtaining the permit is explained subsequently.

7. Checkposts at Lachung and Lachen is manned by the Indian Army.

8. In case of travelling with a child, carry birth certificate. If child is less than five years, permit may not be issued citing safety reasons at high altitudes.

9. Senior citizens are also not recommended at high altitude areas like Gurudongmar.

A Note on Zuluk permits.

1. In many documents (even in the official website of Sikkim), Zuluk is not mentioned in the list of places for PAP (probably since it doesn't fall in the popular category). However, PAP is required for travelling to Zuluk as it is in close proximity to International borders of China and Bhutan. Therefore, in case you intend to traverse through Zuluk, do get it mentioned in your permits. Else you won’t be allowed to pass.

2. Zuluk can be attempted through two axis:-

(a) Via Nathula- Kupup- Nathang valley- Zuluk (Recommended)- and further exit via Reshi. (Permit from Gangtok/ Mangan).

(b) Entry via Reshi- Rongli- Zuluk- Nathang- Nathula- Gangtok. (Permit from Rongli Bazaar SDPO Office). You can get permit for Nathula and Tsongmo from here. However, permits for North Sikkim is not issued from Rongli.

How to get Protected Area Permits

1. Carry two passport size photos and Photo ID proof (passport, voter's ID card, driving license etc).

Note:-
(a) PAN card is not accepted as it does not have address proof.
(b) Adhaar card is also not accepted recently due to some attempts of falsifying documents in the past.

2. For car permit, carry RC, driving license and insurance. As mentioned before, the car should be registered in your name or in the name of someone travelling in the car with you.

3. Submit the above mentioned documents and prescribed application form at the office of the permit issuing authority. They will take some time to process documents and permit will be issued close to afternoon. (Procedure at Mangan was much faster than what I had expected).

4. Budgeting for a day for permits is recommended so as not to rush through the drive.

5. Alternatively, you can contact any tour operator and mediate through him for your permits too.

6. In case you are already in touch with a tour operator, you can mail him relevant documents so that the permit would be ready by the time you reach. This will save you a precious day in case you are not keen to spend an additional day at Gangtok.

[dhanushmenon]

Sikkim is undoubtedly bestowed with stunning natural beauty and is an absolute delight for the travel bug in you. There are numerous places to visit and one can’t possibly list everything on a page.



We tried to visit as many places as we could; however, we couldn’t gather steam for everything. We were on our return leg from Bhutan, and the buffer days that Mr D catered for, had already been consumed at Bhutan. So, we had to forego Yumthang, since we stayed for an additional day at Lachen. We didn’t have another option but to return to Gangtok and go forth to Nathula – Zuluk, thereby catching up with our initial plan.



Thoroughly disappointed with himself, Mr D has promised himself that he will make a second visit to Sikkim to devour the beauty yet again, in a more relaxed pace. But first, his pockets should permit of course!
(Going by his financial discipline, I don’t see that coming soon )

I have listed below few places which I pulled out from the preparatory notes of Mr D. We haven’t visited all places in the list. Snaps and few details of the places we did venture into, will subsequently follow. The places are listed as per the sequence in the recommended itinerary and not as per their ranking or importance. Recommended itinerary is attached in post # 9

West Sikkim and enroute

1. Namchi.


(Above Pic courtesy- esikkimtourism.in)





More than tourism, Namchi (which means ‘top of the sky’), is more considered as a pilgrimage centre for the Buddhists. Located around 80 Kms from Gangtok, this is the South District headquarters and fast emerging as a tourist destination too. Amongst the important religious sites, the Namchi Monastery, Tendong Hill and Ralong Monasteries are the pre-dominant. The city also has a 108ft Lord Shiva statue and is visited a large number of Hindu devotees as well. There is also a rock garden, replete with a colourful spread of flowers and plants. There is a ropeway offering a stunning aerial view of the town and which connects Samdruptse car parking to the Rock garden. At Samdruptse is the 135 feet high imposing statue of Guru Padamasambhava, which is the highest statue of Guru Padmasambhava in the world.

2. Ravangla.



Nestled amidst hills, furrowed by dense forests and outstandingly balanced on a ridge, Ravangla assures one of the most beautiful mountain views. It is amongst the best places to visit in Southern Sikkim. A popular tourist place, this draws many nature lovers every year.

Sandwiched between Gangtok and Pelling, this hill-town also hosts some of the most popular treks in Sikkim. It is also home to some of the most rare and endangered birds in the world. One of Sikkim’s most beautiful sights is the Golden Budhdha statue.

3. Tashiding Monastery. Built in 17th century, The Tashiding monastery translates to “The devoted Central Glory”. Belonging to the Nyingmapa order, this monastery is highly revered among the people of Sikkim and is considered the purest of all monasteries. It is believed that even a slight glimpse of the monastery can cleanse mortals of all sins. Built on top of a hill and looming over the Rathong and Rangit river, the monastery can be seen from far and wide. The monastery is decorated with Buddhist mantras carved on stone plates by a renowned master craftsman Yancheng. A sacred and holy ceremony of Bhumchu festival celebrated to predict the future is held in Tashiding Monastery on the 14th and 15th of the first Tibetan month. There are a large number of oranges orchards and cardamoms plantations around Tashiding which can be visited from here.

4. Pelling.


(Image courtesy- thrillophilia.com)

Located at West Sikkim, Pelling is fast emerging as the second biggest tourist destination in the state after Gangtok. Pelling is reputed to offer the best view of Himalayas and the Khangchendzonga peak. The place also has some history attached to it, along with some beautiful places nearby like Yuksom and Khechuperi. Since it is a small town, you can easily discover it on foot.

Located at a height of 7,200ft above the sea, Pelling town is bestowed with several waterfalls, breath-taking views, natural beauty and adventure options like rafting, kayaking, trekking, mountain biking and several others. The monasteries of Pelling are some of the oldest monasteries of Sikkim.

To visit all places at Pelling, it is recommended that you keep two full days. Therefore depending on your tastes and the time you arrive, you can decide to stay two nights or three nights at this place. We stayed only one night (at a homestay near Khechuperi lake) and didn’t wander around much. Now looking back, I guess I should motivate Mr D to plan another trip to Sikkim soon.

Key attractions

• Pemayangste Monastery
• Sangachoeling Monastery, Chenrezig Statue and skywalk
• Sewaro Rock Garden
• Singshore Bridge
• Rimbi Waterfall
• Kanchenjunga Fall
• Khechuperi Lake
• Rabdentse Ruins.

Pemayangste monastery is less than a kilometre from Pelling, while a 40 minute walk on the hill opposite the monastery takes you to Sanga Choling monastery built in 1697, one of the first in the state. Pelling’s serene environment and picturesque setting is perfect for nice nature walks and small treks. A destination for all seasons, Pelling has hotels and resorts catering to all budgets.

Named after the guardian deity of Sikkim, Khangchendzonga Festival is held at Pelling every year. It offers a host of fun activities like white-water rafting on the Rangit, kayaking, promotional trekking, mountain biking, sightseeing, traditional sports and bird- watching. The festival also includes Flower exhibitions, traditional crafts and ethnic food and costume stalls. Cultural folk dances and music add colour and sound to the festivities. The festival is aimed at balancing all diverse aspects of the area to produce a holistic package showcasing its potential for tourism.

Credit: Official website of Sikkim Tourism department.

5. Yuksom.



Once the capital of Sikkim, this hamlet is more popular for its pristine beauty and rustic appeal. Yuksom is the gateway to the Khangchendzonga Biosphere Reserve, the base for some of the most fascinating treks through high mountain region with the route to Dzongri being the most frequented. Also known as the ‘Meeting place of Three Lamas’, this Sikkimese village has recently started gaining tourism attention. Home to the oldest monastery in Sikkim, this pictorial hamlet is one amongst the most peaceful and serene places to visit in Sikkim.

[dhanushmenon]

1. Gangtok and local visits. Located at a height of 5500 ft, Gangtok provides a spectacular view of Khangchendzonga. The capital city is an apt pivot point to travel to the different locations of the state. Some worthwhile attractions near Gangtok are: -

(a) MG Marg. The main street of Gangtok town- the country’s first litter and spit free zone. Also one of the main shopping locations in the town.

(b) Gangtok Ropeway.


(Above picture courtesy- Sikkimtourism.in)

This bi-cable ropeway provides a bird’s eye view of Gangtok. This is a one km ride, from Deorali to Tashiling Secretariat. On clear weather the ride offers a great view of the Khangchendzonga range apart from an overview of Gangtok town and the valley below.

(c) Ganesh Tok.



Situated 7 kms from Gangtok is Ganesh Tok which gives a view of Gangtok and its surrounding. Mt. Khangchendzonga can be seen from here over the horizon. The view here is truly breathtaking with snow peaks providing the perfect backdrop for the panorama of Gangtok town. Outside the temple, you can hire traditional Sikkimese dress to strike a pose or two.



(d) Hanuman Tok. A temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman, which provides good views of mountains around. The very clean and hygienic temple which is maintained by the Army is situated at a distance of about nine kilometres from Gangtok on the Nathula route. Adjacent to this area is Lukshyama, the royal cremation ground having stupas and chortens. Here the mortal remains of the erst-while royal family members of Sikkim are cremated.

(e) Rumtek Monastery. The lush green hilly terrain, a breathtaking topography and misty mountains makes Rumtek an ideal place for some quiet time. The largest monastery in Sikkim, Rumtek Monastery is also one of the oldest in the state and is also known as the ‘Dharma Chakra Centre’. The monastery houses some of the rarest Buddhist religious art objects found in the world and is also a world renowned centre for Kargyu teachings. The monastery remains open from 0900 – 1800 hrs. Located at a distance of close to 22 kms from Gangtok, this is seat of his Holiness, The Gyalwa Karmapa of the Kargyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

2. Kala Patthar.


(Image courtesy- original owners through flickr.com)

This snowfall zone at an elevation of 14,850 ft, falls between Thangu valley Gurudongmar Lake and requires a deviation from standard route. It is generally not part of standard package by tour operators. It is a 10 km detour through Chopta valley and can be attempted if you have surplus time with you. Therefore, it is recommended that you take the decision on your way back after visiting Gurudongmar. The tour operator may charge you a little extra for this detour and does not require additional permits.

This place derives its name from the terrain as the only thing that you see here is black cliffs and abundance of snow. The place is normally uninhabited except for some occasional settlements by Tibetan nomads for grazing their Yaks. With increasing footfall into the place these days, a few stalls selling tea, coffee, boiled eggs and brandy have sprung up.

3. Gurudongmar Lake.



Certainly one of the high points of your trip (quite literally and figuratively), at 17,800 ft, this is one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. The lake ranks among the top 15 highest lakes in the world and is the second highest lake in India. (The highest in India is Cholamu/ Tso Lamo lake, at a height of 18,000 ft (5,486 m), also situated in Sikkim. However, I don’t think it is possible to visit Cholamu lake for common place tourists). The lake covers an area of 290 acres making it the largest lake in the whole of Sikkim.



This gorgeous lake, considered as sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists, is said to be blessed by Guru Padmasambhava as per folklore. The legend says that though the lake freezes over during winters, one of its portion never freezes. Notwithstanding the extremity of weather, this particular portion, believed to have been blessed by Guru Padmasambhava never freezes and thus its water is considered holy by the devotees.





Points to note:-

(a) The lake is at an altitude of 17,800 ft. You will be alighting to this height on a single day without acclimatisation. Remember that Lachen, the place from where you started the journey for the day, is at a comparatively humble 10,000 ft.
(b) Due to the altitude, oxygen level is very low which can cause severe breathing and other health issues. Therefore, it is advisable to consult a doctor before you visit the place and carry sufficient medicines as prescribed by the doctor.
(c) It is extremely windy and chilly here. Be adequately decked up for warm clothing. Be sure to cover the neck and ears area.
(d) During the winter season (mid-December to February), the roads get frequently blocked due to heavy snowfall.
(e) Indians are allowed to visit Gurudongmar Lake while foreigners are restricted till Chopta Valley and Yumthang Valley. The India-China border is just a few kilometres away from the lake.

4. Yumthang valley.


(Image courtesy- Govt of Sikkim website)

Situated at a height of 11800 ft, this is reputed to be one of the most picturesque places in the whole of Sikkim. Yumthang, meaning ‘valley of flowers’, gives you the right mix of stunning views of mountains, blooms and quaint rivers. At a distance of around 25 kms from Lachung, it typically takes around 90 minutes to reach here from Lachung. Famous for the rhododendron blooms, they typically splash its colours across the valley between Mar to May. Being the peak flowering, these months also witnesses the Rhododendron festival.

Before entering the Yumthang Valley, a pedestrian pathway goes over a small bridge and reaches Yumthang Hot Spring. You will need to walk for few thousand yards to reach the hot spring. The water is rich with sulfur and said to have good healing and medicinal value. The spring water here is directed to a hut and couple of pools inside so that one can take a healing bath here.

5. Zero Point. Located 23 kms further away from Yumthang is Zero Point; the place where the civilian road ends. From Yumthang, it takes about 1.5 hours to reach here (about 3 to 3.5 hours from Lachung). Perched at a height of 15000 ft, the place and the roads to the place, is harsh and treacherous. However, despite the rough journey, the place is quite rewarding for the views it offers. Zero Point is the place where three rivers meet with snow-clad mountains offering marvellous views. You can often see yaks grazing in the snow. Also known as Yume Samdong, Zero Point boasts of one of the many points where the state shares a border with China. This place remains snow covered for most part of the year.

[dhanushmenon]

East Sikkim

1. Tsongmo Lake.



Changu Lake or Tsongmo lake is one of the most popular tourist locations near Gangtok. At a distance of 38 Kms from Gangtok, this falls on the way to Nathula. This can therefore be most conveniently clubbed along you’re your visit to Nathula (in case you are going that side. I’d say you should visit Nathula anyway!). Plonked atop an altitude of 12,400ft, this is one of the highest lakes in India. Tsongmo means ‘water’ in Bhutia language. The lake assumes different shades during various times of the year. While it remains frozen during winters with a white layer of ice coverings its top, summer brings in a splash of colours with flowers in full bloom.

Tsomgo (Changu) lake is associated with many myths and legends and is revered by the Sikkimese as sacred. It is believed that in olden times, Buddhist monks would study the colour of the water of the lake to forecast future.
The lake is also of special significance for the Jhakris [faith healers] of Sikkim who congregate here annually on Guru Purnima, which coincides with the festival of Raksha Bandhan, from all over the state to offer prayers.

Credit- Sikkim official Tourism website.

At the lake side, you can choose to ride (read- walk) atop a colourfully decorated Yak or sensibly just choose to click a snap and be content.



The lakeside also has a variety of eating stalls serving snacks and beverages. For the more enthusiastic variety choosing to trek along the lake, snowboots and gumboots can be hired here.

Note: - Tsomgo lake is open for both Indian and foreign nationals, however foreign visitors have to be in a group of two or more and have to apply for a visitors permit through a registered travel agency.

2. Nathula Pass.



One of the most popular locations in Sikkim, the Nathula Pass, at 4310 m (14450 ft) connects Sikkim with Tibet. A side shoot of the pre historic Silk route of trade, the pass was a major corridor of passage between India and Tibet before it was closed in 1962. The pass is open only for Indians; however, as mentioned earlier, you will require a permit to visit this pass. Tourists are allowed quite close to the border, from where you can directly see Chinese soldiers on the other side in close quarters. As per local info, the route to Nathula is one place where you can find ‘easy’ snow almost throughout the year. (Well, you can find snow in Zero Point too; however, that doesn’t come so easy)

Note: -
(a) Nathula pass remains closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
(b) The pass remains inaccessible during winters due to heavy snowfall and temperatures dipping below -10 degrees or more.
(c) Only Indians can visit the pass (from the Indian side).
(d) Photography is strictly prohibited.
(e) Nathula Permit issuing officer- 03592-209090

3. Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir. The original Baba Mandir (which is now called as Old Baba Mandir), is located close to Kupup. Since reaching this place was difficult for tourists, a new Mandir has been built near Nathula. The temple has been built in the memory of an Indian soldier who is worshipped as a diety. Being close to Nathula, you can make a small detour and visit this place. There are also few shops in the vicinity from where you can shop for souvenirs.

4. Thambi View point. Located enroute the way to Zuluk from Nathula, at 11,200 ft, this place offers a vantage point for a stunning sight of the zig zag road that snakes up a mountain (32 of them hairpin bends!!). The view point also offers view of Mt Khangchendzonga on a clear day. However, the view will depend on fog/ clouds. When we visited, all we could find on the first day was clouds and some bend peeking from between.



We waited for some time but couldn’t get a glimpse of the view we had travelled for. Retiring to his room with face drawn longer than a cow, Mr D was determined that “Come what may; I am not going back without catching a sight of this. Even if it meant spending an extra day or staying perched on a chilling stone throughout the day”. I wish he had this kind of determination to pen in a travelogue!
As though impressed with the grit and determination of Mr D, the next morning we were blessed with the view we has eagerly waited for. Boy! What a sight this is!





View of the peaks from Thambi point with changing hues on the snow clad mountains during sunrise is quite stunning. A better view of the entire range is also available from Lungthung (which is another 10kms away). This is considered the best sunrise viewpoint along the Silk Route (but you need to start earlier as it's further away from Zuluk).

5. Zuluk. If you have taken the efforts to reach till Sikkim, you should definitely visit Zuluk (also spelt as Dzuluk). If not for anything else, just to catch a glimpse of the wonderful view from Thambi View Point. At a height of 10,100 ft, Zuluk, though beautiful, is one of the lesser travelled destinations in Sikkim. Located on the ancient ‘Silk Route’ which once connected India and Tibet, this quaint village also has an empowering history associated with it. On the Indian side, the Silk route starts from Pedong in Kalimpong district and goes through Rhenock, Rongli, Zuluk; further northward to Nathang valley, Kupup, and finally Jelepla Pass, which was used to reach beautiful Chumbi valley of Tibet. The road further stretched from Chumbi valley onward to Lhasa. Till the first half of 20th century before the Chinese invaded Tibet, this old Silk Route was used heavily to trade silk, fur and wool between Tibet and India, and hence the name ‘Silk Route’.

The village also offers good vantage points for great panoramic views of Mt Khangchendzonga and surrounding snow-capped mountain ranges, especially in winter.

A Note on Zuluk permits. (In case you have missed earlier. This is also covered in post # 5,)

(a) Zuluk is not specifically mentioned in the list of places for PAP by Sikkim Tourism Dept official website. Probably because of the very low footfall that’s far and few in between. However, PAP is required for travelling to Zuluk as it is in close proximity to International borders of China and Bhutan. Therefore, in case you intend to traverse through Zuluk, do get it mentioned in your permits. Else you won’t be allowed to pass.

(b) Zuluk can be attempted through two axis:-

(i) Via Nathula- Kupup- Nathang valley- Zuluk (Recommended)- and further exit via Reshi. (Permit from Gangtok/ Mangan).

(ii) Entry via Reshi- Rongli- Zuluk- Nathang- Nathula- Gangtok. (Permit from Rongli Bazaar SDPO Office). You can get permit for Nathula and Tsongmo from here. However, permits for North Sikkim is not issued from Rongli.

[dhanushmenon]

Recommended circuit itinerary

The itineraries below have been made considering that the journey starts from Kalimpong or Siliguri.

Basic Leg Circuit

D 1- Kalimpong- Melli- Sadam- Namchi- Ravangla- Pelling
D 2- Pelling
D 3- Pelling (may cut down this day depending on your interests)
D 4- Pelling- Ravangla- Temi- Gangtok
D 5- Gangtok local visits/ permits etc
D 6- Gangtok- Lachen
D 7- Lachen- Gurudongmar- Lachung
D 8- Lachung- Yumthang- Zero point- Gangtok

After covering West, North and Central Sikkim, you may choose to exit SK through either of the two options as below: -

Option 1- With Zuluk and exit via Rongli

D 9- Gangtok- Tsongmo Lake- Nathula- Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir- Zuluk
D 10- Zuluk- Rongli- Reshi- Pedong- Lava (a small detour for a beautiful drive)- Kalimpong/ Darjeeling/ Siliguri

Option 2- Without Zuluk, return from Nathula back to Gangtok (for those travelling by hired taxies at SK)

D 9- Gangtok- Tsongmo Lake- Nathula- Baba Harbhajan Singh Mandir - Gangtok
D 10- Gangtok- Rangpo- Kalimpong/ Teesta Bazar- (Darjeeling- Kurseong) - Siliguri

Note:- In case you wish to cover Zuluk on the onward leg, you may choose to do so by reversing the above route. Permits for Zuluk, Nathula and Tsongmo will be issued at Rongli. However, for further permits for North Sikkim, you will need to get it issued from gangtok.

Things to keep in mind, some pointers

• Lachen- Lachung- G’dngmar- Zero Point

1. Lachen- means Big Pass. Lachung- means Small Pass.
2. Lachen- 10000 ft, Thangu- 14000 ft, G’dngmr- 17800ft,
3. Lachung- 8610ft, Yumthang – 11800 ft, Zero Point- 15000 ft.
4. Chungthang is the diversion point to Lachen/ Lachung when you come from Gangtok. Turn left for Lachen and turn right for Lachung.
5. Chungthang to Lachen takes around 75- 90 minutes.
6. Lachen to Gurudongmar takes around 5 hours.
7. Chungthang to Lachung takes around 90 to 120 minutes.
8. Lachung to Yumthang valley takes around 90 minutes.
9. Yumthang to Zero point takes around 90 minutes.
10. Mangan to Lachung- 5 hrs including breaks.

11. The earlier you leave from Lachen for G’dngmar, the better it is. More vehicles gather later in the day.
12. You should start your journey from Lachen atleast by 0500 hrs so as to finish the visit and reach Lachung during daylight and also catering for unforeseen eventualities.
13. Army doesn’t allow visitors after 1200hrs to cross the checkpost to Gurudongmar view safety reasons.
14. Gurudongmar lake is at an altitude of 17,800 ft. You will be alighting to this height on a single day without acclimatisation. Remember that Lachen, the place from where you started the journey for the day, is at a comparatively humble 10,000 ft.
15. Due to the altitude, oxygen level is very low which can cause severe breathing and other health issues. Therefore, it is advisable to consult a doctor before you visit the place and carry sufficient medicines as prescribed by the doctor. People have been known to complain of oxygen deficiency there, so tread carefully and do not exert unnecessarily. People with high BP should avoid this trip as there are no civil medical facilities enroute. Army is present and they always help.
16. It is extremely windy and chilly at Gurudongmar Lake. Be adequately decked up for warm clothing. Be sure to cover the neck and ears area.
17. During the winter season (mid-December to February), the roads get frequently blocked due to heavy snowfall.
18. Indians are allowed to visit Gurudongmar Lake while foreigners are restricted till Chopta Valley and Yumthang Valley. The India-China border is just a few kilometres away from the lake.
19. The roads are terrible, so if you are prone to motion sickness, do carry an Avomin.
20. There is no place to eat/ buy food there or anywhere along the way so make your own arrangements.

21. Chungthang monastery, Lachung Gompa and carpet weaving centre (8 AM to 4 PM) enroute to Yumthang valley.
22. Yumthang valley- March to May is the peak flowering season and also is the time for Rhododendron festival.
23. Warm clothes on hire. If you are heading for snow in Zero Point, then rent an overcoat, a pair of gloves and snow boots from Yumthang market. Also carry enough warm woolens in all seasons as it can be biting cold at the higher reaches.
24. Ofcourse there are no ATMs here, so carry enough cash.

• Nathula Pass

1. Nathula Pass remains closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Therefore, plan your trip accordingly.
2. The pass remains inaccessible during winters due to heavy snowfall and temperatures dipping below -10 degrees or more.
3. Only Indians can visit the pass (from the Indian side).
4. Photography is strictly prohibited.
5. Nathula Permit issuing Officer- 03592- 209090

• Tsongmo Lake

1. Tsomgo lake is open for both Indian and foreign nationals, however foreign visitors have to be in a group of two or more and have to apply for a visitors permit through a registered travel agency.

[dhanushmenon]

Places that Mr D took me to- Few snaps.

As mentioned earlier, being on a tight route chart, we did not have ample buffers to explore West Sikkim much. Also, being on the return leg after Bhutan, kids were already wary of monasteries. Junior D even laid down the diktat “If you want to go to monasteries, you may. But I am not budging from my place to step inside anymore monasteries. I have already seen more monasteries than I’ve seen temples back at home”.
After all, this was a 25 day long trip. It was already the 20th day on the road for them by the time we left Gangtok for Nathula- Zuluk. I wouldn’t blame Mr D much for his compassion towards the junior.

With a cursory (read- name sake) drive, we sketched around few popular locations near West Sikkim and shifted to Gangtok. Not that Mr D wasn’t prepared; but that he didn’t want to add any more days into this already 25 days and 10,000 km long journey. His main focus was North Sikkim and Zuluk. Therefore, he chose to leave West Sikkim for his next trip (whenever and if ever that day comes).

After ruffling through few locations at Gangtok, we then visited North Sikkim. However, Mr D had to drop Yumthang and Zero point due to some unplanned extra time spent at Gurudongmar. This forced them to stay at Lachen itself that day, instead of Lachung as initially planned. On return from North Sikkim, we then gunned to Tsongmo, Nathula and onward to Zuluk, further exiting at Rongli.

The route we took was covered in post # 3.

So, having now exhausted my vocabulary, It will be the snaps that will do most of the talking henceforth. I will only quip in a caption or two in between. The snaps attached below are in no particular order or sequence.


One of the many small scale water crossings enroute Lachen.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPhSFgro0pk

On the return leg, Mr D even got a video made of him crossing the small stream.




We found a (very) small French balcony. Well, not quite, yet a little consolation.


Mr D found this tree quite amusing. I really fail to find logic in his train of thoughts!


Waterfalls are in abundance in Sikkim. You find them all along your way.


Some marked and many unmarked.




In few of the harmless streams that emanate from these falls, you can try some safe adventures too.


During our drive to Lachen, Mr D along with the kids started counting the falls. Within an hour or two of the drive, they had crossed 100 waterfalls and Mr D stopped counting. I am still confused at whether it was because he got bored or that he is yet to graduate to counting beyond 100; Guessing by his IQ, may be the latter is true.


Way to Lachen




Approaching Gurudongmar


First excitement of snow- enroute Gurudongmar.
What they didn't know was the abundance of joy that awaited them on the way to Nathula, just two days away.

[dhanushmenon]

I also had my share of snow splash.
Much like the kids, I also wasn't aware of what awaited me two days later.


I just went ahead and posed with snow wherever I could.


Again and again...


And some more.


These majestic guys hijacked our track for a while on our way to Lachen.


Look at the elegant gait of the white headed guy. He indeed was a beauty to watch.


A glance of the picturesque Lachen


Another grab of Lachen


Enroute Namchi. I forgot the name of this place though. I would have easily missed visiting here but for the motivation from a localite whom we gave a 'lift' to the nearest town.


One view of the loops/ switch backs at Zuluk.


In the onboard map.


And on google offline maps.

[dhanushmenon]

Enroute Nathula, we found abundance of snow. More than what we had bargained for. And none could have been happier.


They enjoyed to the hilt as they went on a frolic. Throwing around snow flakes...


And even snow blocks at times.



Then they took turns to slide down the icy slope.




They then tried their bit of imagination and efforts to make a snowman.



However, by now, the sliding on the icy slope and all the snow slinging has started to pay back. Slowly, snow had started to seep inside the gloves and through the fabric of the pants. With body parts directly subjected to freezing, the kids soon squared up whatever version of snowman they were attempting and was soon back inside the car.


And this is the best snowman they could manage

Well anyway, I also had my share of fun.







And by the way, for Mr D, a trip is never complete without atleast one puncture.


At the end, a parting shot of Gurudongmar.


I guess its time for me to shut down the laptop and get back to my garage. Believe me, this is really tiring; especially for someone like me who is filling up for the shortcomings of another.

Anyways, while Mr D snores his worries away, let us at least do something more meaningful.
Cheers and drive safe.

[SmartCat]

Moving thread from Assembly Line to Travelogues. Thanks for sharing, Dhanush!

[blackwasp]

Originally Posted by dhanushmenon

Mr D’s Daughter and the Seeds to a Travelogue

It would have never seen the light of another day, had it not been for the inquisitiveness of Mr D’s daughter. The little one, on a fine morning, still learning the ropes of a laptop, blessed the screen saver with a splendid spread from Zuluk.e the grey matter within his crowning baldness, that barely borders in the region of ‘traces’.

Great pics there Dhanush. I'm glad you found the time to share this with the forum. Even though a bit late, it is none the less mesmerising!

The mountain-travelogues are always a treat to read. Sikkim has always been on my bucket list to travel, and your report might have just bumped up its place a bit higher than before.

Also, many thanks for sharing details about the permits.

Cheers.

[condor]

Dhanush Sir - Awesome TL ! Loved the narration, the pics, and the story. If Sikkim is so beautiful in pics, what a feeling it would be to experience it !

Just noticed that the pics in post #1 and #10 still have the registration number visible. You look to have blanked it in others.