[abhikb]

Well it’s been almost a year since we haven’t embarked on a trip hence, thought of putting up a travelogue of a trip we did last summer. It had been on the agenda to share the experience of this trip but somehow couldn’t find the time to do so.

Anyways, last summer we did a road trip to the only home of Asiatic Lions “Sasangir Forest” in the summers of 2018.

The trip summary is as follows:

Route: Ahmedabad-Limbdi-Rajkot-Junagadh-Sasan
Distance: Approximately 800 kms to and fro.
Start date and time: 13/04/2018 19:00 hours
End date and time: 15/04/2018 20:00 hours
Vehicle: Mahindra Xylo E4- MEagle
Travellers: 5 people. (Parents, brother, myself and wife).
Safaris completed: 3
Animals spotted: Approximately 10-12 Lions and 1 Leopard
Place of stay: Anil Farm (Contact: Mr. Akbar- 094269 95315)

So, there is always an itching every summer to visit the Sasangir forest or maybe the sight of big cats in its natural habitat is more inviting for us. As many of the people know, summers are best time to go for jungle safari because due to less vegetation the range of visibility increases and there are high chances of spotting the wild animals. Hence, in the summer of 2018 we decided to revisit Sasangir forest in mid of April. We did a similar trip in 2017 and this was our 4th time to the home of big cats.

Little information on Sasangir:

As I have mentioned earlier, Sasangir is the only place in the world which is inhabited by Asiatic lions. Their population is about 520 as per last census along with leopards and hyenas. The population of the lions dropped in this region to a mere 20 in early 1900s and they were extinct in other parts of the world.Since then continuous efforts have been made to conserve them and the population has been on the rise. Being the only place in the world where you can see Asiatic lions, this place attracts many wildlife enthusiasts from all over the world.


Safari and permit details:

Permits for safari is to be booked online through girlion.in website. There are no other ways of obtaining the permits other than through online booking. Each permit has the limit of minimum 1 person and maximum 6 persons for the safari. Please note to take care while entering the name of the Travellers and government ID details (same needs to be produced at the counter).

There are two types of permit available on the website:

1. Gir Jungle trail. (Jungle Safari).
2. Devalia park.

There are total of 3 safaris conducted per day (a) 6am to 9am, (b) 9am to 12pm and (c) 3pm to 6pm. We booked all the 3 slots in order to have a better chance of spotting the big cats. Cost of each permit is about Rs. 1000 which is only for the permit, the fees for Gypsy and guide is to be paid directly at the reporting counter. (Roughly Rs.2200). Hence, the total cost per safari is Rs. 3200 which includes cost of permit, guide and Gypsy. There are total 8 routes where the Gypsies take you into the jungle, the routes are allocated at the safari counter on random basis.

Devalia Park is a small facility build within the jungle which is about 14 kms radius. Few deers, sambhars, Lions and leapords have been kept as an inhabitants. They have mini buses which takes people around the park. Needless to say it is easy to spot the big cats here than in the Jungle safari but then the sight that you see in the jungle after lot of struggle is worth and satisfying.

Hotel booking:

Once, the permits were booked online I called up Mr. Akbar who manages Anil Farm property a very polite gentleman and confirmed our stay for 2 nights. He arranged a big room for 5 of us which had 2 bathrooms and a wash area.

Price: Rs. 5500 per night.
Inclusions: Stay, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Anil Farm is a neatly maintained property located in the Jungle and houses a huge mango garden (Sasan is famous for mango production), if you are lucky you can even spot the wildlife from their property. The staff led by Mr. Akbar is very polite and helpful. (You will get to know later in the post). Hence, it has been our preferred place of stay whenever we visit Sasangir.

With the permits placed and hotel booking confirmed we were all set to embark on this trip. However, a couple of days before the start of the trip while driving back home, I noticed that the brakes of the Xylo had become weak and almost gave away while parking at home. Took it to the workshop next day and noticed that the brake pads have gone kaput, anyhow the workshop owner ensured that the car was ready by evening and thus we were finally at peace that we can start the trip next day.

Day-1: Ahmedabad to Sasangir

The total distance from Ahmedabad to Sasangir is about 360 kms and takes about 7 hours to reach. It was 13th April which was a Friday, completed the day’s work, reached home and started driving at 7pm. We took the Bavla-Limbdi-Rajkot highway to reach Junagadh. We had our dinner after crossing Limdi at one of the highway hotels (dont remember the name) at around 9-9:30 pm. Post dinner we continued with our journey, crossed Rajkot by 11pm and at around 12:30am we reached Junagadh. The roads till Junagadh are 4 lane with many places to take halt and have food. From Junagadh it takes around couple of hours to reach Sasangir but the best part is the road goes through the forest. This was the only reason for starting our trip in the evening so that we can pass through the aforesaid route in the night time. Since, Lions move around in the jungle at night time and rest during the day time. Hence, we were hoping to spot one while driving on the highway but unfortunately couldn’t spot one and kept our fingers crossed for the Safari.

The road here in the mention is narrow but tarred and there is hardly any place to halt nor there are signs of habitation around. Fuel station, puncture stops or garages are not available on this route. Its best to keep driving on this stretch and have stock of water, food and fuel. While driving at night on the jungle route, I missed a mid sized boulder and drove over it with a loud thud. We Stopped immediately on listening the loud noise and got down to check for any damages underneath or any leakage. I couldn’t spot anything and decided to continue with our journey.

Reached Anil Farm by around 2:30 am and called Mr. Akbar who came to the reception and escorted us to our room. We informed him we have 2 safaris on Saturday (9 to 12 & 3 to 6). Arranged our luggage, changed and crashed on the bed immediately.

Day-2: Sasangir:


All geared up for the Safari

Safari-1: 9am to 12pm

We woke up around 7 am and got ready for the Safari by 8am. The team at the hotel had kept the breakfast ready for us and we left for the Safari. We reported at around 8:30 am at the counter with the hard copies of the permits and original ID proofs which were provided while booking the permits. After checking the documents by the officials, we were allotted route no. 6 and a young lad who was our guide. Then we went to the next counter where we were allotted our Gypsy for the Safari. Once, the gates were opened our Gypsy entered into the jungle on the allotted route. We knew we had less chances of spotting the Lions since, they go into the deep jungles for resting during the day time.

At about 10:30 am we saw a Gypsy standing a little ahead, enquired with them who said a Lioness was crossing the route when they were passing by. But by the time we reached there the Lioness had gone far into the jungle. We proceeded further with the hope of spotting something ahead. We spotted a lot of deers, sambhars, peacocks etc. enroute but none of the carnivorous were nowhere to be seen. Moving further as time passed we just sat and gazed the natural surrounding as we knew by this time it is very unlikely to spot anything.


Deer spotted enroute

We returned to Anil Farm after completing the Safari and sat for having lunch. The food served to us was delicious and while discussing amongst ourselves, one of the hotel staff came to our table and enquired on our Safari. I explained we didn’t spot any Lions or leopards enroute and are hoping to spot something in the next Safari.

Safari-2: 3pm to 6pm

My family members went to the room to take some rest while I went to Mr. Akbar’s office and sat with him chitchatting on which is the preferable route these days where the Lions are seen the most in the evening Safari. He showed me a photo of pride of 9 Lioness with cubs who were resting near the bank of the water body just outside their premises. This happened a week back before we came for our trip. Anyways, Mr. Akbar called up his guide friends to enquire and I got the recommendation for route no. 2. The problem was you are allotted routes on random basis at the counter and I have seen the officers turning down the requests of visitors for a preferred route.

Anyways, we reached the Safari point and went to the counter with the permits and other documents. I politely requested the officer sitting at the counter to allot us route no. 2 if possible and to my surprise he obliged. Then we were allotted the guide and Gypsy both young lads in their early 20s. At sharp 3pm the gates opened and we entered route no. 2 with crossed fingers with the hope of some sighting of the big cats.

After about half an hour our guide asked the driver to stop the Gypsy and asked us to look to the left, we saw a adult leopard going into the jungle and vanished in few seconds couldn’t click a photo but we were happy that finally the jungle gave us this little reward and we proceeded further with the Safari. As we moved further, we saw couple of Gypsies waiting on the route. The passengers signaled us to stop and keep silence our driver parked the Gypsy near to the water well which was nearby. I knew something was there nearby, and we started looking around. Couple of minutes later, we saw a mother Lioness and a pair of mid sized Lioness and Lion coming out of the bushes and crossing the road towards the water well to quench their thirst. We waited for 15-20 minutes and clicked many photos and videos of the trio. To our surprise the trio after having some water came near our Gypsy and sat few feets away from the road. What else can you desire.


The trio approaching from the other side











A while later, I asked the driver to move ahead slowly so that the trio can enjoy their time and we don’t end up bothering them much. We completed the Safari without any further sighting of the big cats. Gave some tip for the guide and driver and hopped into the Xylo to move towards our stay.

While we were happy with the sighting our car started making a big rattling noise and it increased with the speed. I thought maybe the bumping into the boulder on the previous night is showing it’s colors. We reached the farm, me and my father tried examining the underbody and asked my brother to slowly move the car ahead so that we determine the source of noise. After sometime we zeroed down on the probability that the knuckle joint in the shaft connecting the differential is causing the noise. I checked with Akbar if there is any mechanic nearby who can help us since, the noise was increasing with time it would be a risky affair to drive back home next day. Anyhow, Akbar and his team again came to the rescue. One more fellow named Hassan who was working under Akbar called a local mechanic to whom I explained the problem. He said to drive the car to his place in the morning, he will dismantle the shaft and check if the joint is required to be replaced. The issue was Sasangir is a small place and there are no spares shop available. Nearest one is at Talala which 60kms and the next day being a Sunday I was apprehensive whether we will get the required spare. However, Hassan also owned a Xylo and he said if we don’t get the joint tomorrow he will dismantle the same from his car and ask the mechanic to fit in our car so that we can drive back home. By this time the dinner was ready, we had our food and got to our room. We had an early morning Safari next day and also were supposed to drive back home after lunch after the Xylo is repaired.

Day-3: Sasangir and drive back to home

Safari-3: 6am to 9am

The sightings of Lion/Lioness trio and a Leopard had lifted our spirits and we were more hopeful of spotting few more in the early morning Safari. This time I reached the counter at 4:45 am, thanked the official for obliging last afternoon and completed the process. We were allotted route no. 6 which was preferred one that morning. I went back to get the family members and this time I asked our Gypsy driver to take us and wait at the time in advance. Early morning is the ideal time to spot the big cats since, they normally are on hunt or returning back to their resting spot.

The gates opened at sharp 6am and all the Gypsies rushed into their respective routes. We could see pug marks all along the routes which meant something was nearby.


A pug mark that we saw enroute

After few minutes, we saw a sambhar running out of the bush and giving calls. The guide asked the driver to stop as he suspected something might be chasing the Sambhar. We waited and then saw couple a male lion and lioness chasing the animal and what a sight it was to see. Though they vanished into the jungle and we couldn’t see them catch their prey but even it was not bad for a start. We moved ahead and after few metres we spotted a lioness going into the bushes, didn’t stop as she was already gone before we could click her. I thought I had seen enough for this trip, but then the biggest surprise awaited a few metres ahead.





Pardon me for the poor quality of photos this is the best I could manage at that moment

Our driver braked all of a sudden and what we saw left us in awe. A big brute alpha male lion was crossing the road and walking towards a water well located few feet away. Another 4-5 Gypsies stopped after us and all of us were gazing the beauty of the magnificent beast. I even whispered to my brother that he looks like Mufasa of the Lion king movie. The Lion drank water and starting walk back from where he came, he came and stood next to our Gypsy for a while before he spotted something in the bush and ran towards it maybe a prey or something to hunt.

Below is "Mufasa" what we named him. The pictures dont do justice to the humongous presence of this beast















Now our trip was worth full and we couldn’t have asked for anything more than this. We moved ahead and than saw another lioness at a distance and then eventually our Safari ended.


A Lioness sitting in the bushes

In all of these I totally forgot about the issue with our Xylo. We reached back to the Farm and I then took the Xylo to the mechanic’s place who dismantled the shaft and opened the cross joint which was damaged and needed to be replaced. He then took me to Talala on his bike and luckily we could get one at a spare parts shop. Returned back to Sasangir and the Xylo was fit and fine for the run back home.

After a delicious lunch, we bid adeau to Akbar and his team and started our drive back home. We reached home at around 8pm and were more than happy that we this trip has rewarded more than we could expect.

Few pointers when visiting Sasangir:

1. Sasangir is a secluded place and there isn’t a doctor or medical facility available. Keep medicines handy.
2. The route from Junagadh to Sasangir doesn’t have any shops or restaurants. Hence, better to have your meals or snacks at Junagadh itself. Same is the case while coming from Somnath or Talala.
3. Book permits in advance and they are only available online. Many crooks will try and lure you into believing that back door adjustment is possible, but the fact is there is no back door adjustment possible.
4. The road conditions are good throughout the journey from Ahmedabad.
5. Talala has many mango farms, if you are a mango lover you can get a good deal.
6. Book multiple Safari and preferably early morning or afternoon.
7. Make sure to reach the counter well in advance and coordinate with your guide and driver proactively.
8. Spotting wildlife is pure luck. Don’t get disheartened if you don’t see one. I have seen many people getting angry on the guides if they couldn’t see anything. Please understand it is a natural habitat and not a zoo. If you are so keen go and check Devalia Park.
9. Check with your hotel people or guides waiting at the counter as to which route has the possibility of spotting the lions. Try and request the official if he obliges.
10. When in jungle respect the natural habitat and don’t throw any form of trash.
11. The famous African tribe known as the Sidhis who have settled in India can be seen in big numbers inside the jungle area.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[aditya.86]

Great write up Abhikb.

Have been to Sasan multiple times- I live in Porbandar. Have been lucky to spot the big cats everytime i have been but never a leopard.

In my opinion Devalia park is just not worth the time and money. The thrill of spotting lions in their natural habitat is a different feeling.

[SJM1214]

I am from Gujarat(well you know it) . My home town is 350km far from Gir National Park. Still, I have never been to Sasan Gir. As far as I know, the best season to visit this place is during winter( November to March).

Hopefully, I will be able to visit Sasan Gir this winter. Thanks for this t" log and details. Your write-up gonna be an inspiration as well as a guide for my trip to GIR.

[Nempuguru]

Nicely compiled travelogue "abhikb" . Info, tips which you have shared is very useful for travelers.

[abhikb]

Originally Posted by aditya.86

Great write up Abhikb.

Have been to Sasan multiple times- I live in Porbandar. Have been lucky to spot the big cats everytime i have been but never a leopard.

In my opinion Devalia park is just not worth the time and money. The thrill of spotting lions in their natural habitat is a different feeling.

Hi Aditya,

We spotted the leopard only once and that too it vanished in few seconds. However, I wish I can spot a hyena in the next visit.

Totally agreed with what you said over Devalia. But then I have seen people going for Safari thinking that the wildlife will be waiting for them just like a zoo and then yell at the guide as if they are making a fool out of them. For such people I feel Devalia is the ideal place.

Originally Posted by SJM1214

I am from Gujarat(well you know it) . My home town is 350km far from Gir National Park. Still, I have never been to Sasan Gir. As far as I know, the best season to visit this place is during winter( November to March).

Hopefully, I will be able to visit Sasan Gir this winter. Thanks for this t" log and details. Your write-up gonna be an inspiration as well as a guide for my trip to GIR.

Hey Shreyasbhai,

The best season is the summers because the greenery is less in those days which increases the visibility. During winter or post monsoon season the visibility is less due to increased vegetation. I am happy that this Tlog inspired you to take up the trip. Do let me know in case you need any assistance.

Originally Posted by Nempuguru

Nicely compiled travelogue "abhikb" . Info, tips which you have shared is very useful for travelers.

Thanks Nempuguru. I am glad that this helped you.

[pd_scorpio]

Originally Posted by abhikb

Well it’s been almost a year since we haven’t embarked on a trip hence, thought of putting up a travelogue of a trip we did last summer. It had been on the agenda to share the experience of this trip but somehow couldn’t find the time to do so.

Your write-up going to be a good source for my next trip to Sasan Gir.

[abhikb]

Originally Posted by pd_scorpio

Your write-up going to be a good source for my next trip to Sasan Gir.

Hi pd_scorpio,

I am glad that this Tlog would be helpful for your next trip.

[aditya.86]

Would like to mention something which happened in Gir. During one of the safaris we met a guide, say X who was alloted to us.

He was very friendly and highly knowledgeable regarding wildlife and has also travelled to most sanctuaries in India. The safari went on smoothly and we were lucky enough to spot a pride closely.

After the safari we took down his number and he told us to call him during our next visit and guaranteed us better sighting.

Fast forward a few months, we had a few visitors from Bangalore and they wanted to visit Gir. Online Safari was booked and hotels were also done.

I called up Mr X and informed him about our plans. When we reached our hotel at Gir, he met us there and told us if we are willing to spend some extra bucks, he will ensure guaranteed sighting. Since we had booked only one safari and chosen the evening 3-6 slot, I wanted to make sure they get to see the lions and not return disappointed.

Our booking details were handed over to him and we were allotted the routes and drivers (2 jeeps) as there were 8 of us. Mr X was in our gypsy along with another gypsy which followed.

The safari started by around 3 15 pm and we started moving on the route alloted to us slowly keeping an eye on the surroundings. In about an hour we saw 2 lionesses along our alloted route with a bunch of other vehicles waiting and watching.

We moved on from the first sighting and suddenly i realised that we are not sticking to the routed allotted. Mr X was constantly on the phone with the trackers who are located inside the forest to get information of lion sighting. They took us to a place where there was a huge male lion and we waited. Soon we noticed a tracker on his bike and he went into the forest (leaving the tracked road with this bike) and suddenly we started hearing noises which is when Mr X told us that there is a huge male lion inside the jungle close by.

What we saw next was not what we expected. The tracker was literally chasing the lion out onto the roads where we were waiting and the lion actually did come out close to the jeeps we were waiting in. We observed closely and after a while moved on since it was almost 6.

On the way out Mr X received another call regarding a pride sighting and we just rushed through the forest tracks to the so called sighting place. There were around 15-20 jeeps waiting to catch a glimpse of the pride which had 2 female lionesses and 6 cubs which were resting at a far distance.

Since the safari timings were getting over, all other jeeps started moving slowly towards the exit point and only our jeeps were left along with a bunch of trackers and a forest guard.

Once the whole area was cleared of other vehicles, our jeeps were allowed to go close to the pride so that we can get a good view, take pictures and watch.

Pretty soon it was getting dark, the time being close to 7 pm and we started moving towards the exit gates. Once we reached back, as agreed we gave Mr X the agreed amount, thanked him and left.

Though we were able to see these magnificent creatures close enough, it was highly disappointing. Disturbing lions from the natural habitat just so that people can see them is sad. To be honest this is not what i expected.

The forest guards, trackers, everyone is paid off and gets a cut so no one objects. This is their way of making extra money. Plus it is surprising that the lions also do not attack the trackers when provoked. I have heard that lions are usually calm and do not attack unless provoked unlike tigers. But this incident was just too much.

Although, my guests enjoyed the safari, me and my wife were disappointed at what had just happened.

This makes me wonder if this is the case with all national parks and safaris which is just killing of the originality of the whole purpose.

[abhikb]

Originally Posted by aditya.86

Would like to mention something which happened in Gir. During one of the safaris we met a guide, say X who was alloted to us.

Whatever you have mentioned is pretty much happening in Sasangir. The guides are allotted serial number and they were allowed to jump their serial number and hop on to any of the safaris. However, during this 2018 visit I learnt that they are no longer allowed to do so and all the guides have to follow their serial number. But still it’s India so some jugaad might be happening.

[fhdowntheline]

I am a huge wildlife safari fan, and have experienced the beauty of Kabini, Mudumalai, Pench and Corbett so far. But every time I hear stories of "managed" sightings, my heart aches a bit at the circumstances that have been created for this to happen. Sometimes I feel its best to leave the forests alone. But then the counter argument of protecting the wildlife for the sake of human livelihood is also a compelling one. Perhaps what should have happened is that people should have been moved out of villages en masse, and large tracts of forests should have been allowed to grow. That would have made it a truly wild and forbidding landscape. I feel the right policy is to take the people out of the forest and into the towns, instead of building roads to reach out to the forest dwellers, which is what is currently happening.

[aditya.86]

Originally Posted by abhikb

Whatever you have mentioned is pretty much happening in Sasangir. The guides are allotted serial number and they were allowed to jump their serial number and hop on to any of the safaris. However, during this 2018 visit I learnt that they are no longer allowed to do so and all the guides have to follow their serial number. But still it’s India so some jugaad might be happening.

This happened in January this year. Like you said- it's India.