[redbaron91]

Travelogue – Hampta Pass – July '19

Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence or underestimation. I understood this right after my first encounter with Himalayan trek. Apart from sun burned earlobes and neck (because of lack of accessories), I must say I had one of the most splendid & memorable 6 days of my life.


Enroute Delhi


Pandoh Dam, over Beas river.

Disclaimer: I am not associated with any organization mentioned in the travelogue and not promoting any of them.

Trek facts:

Organizer: India Hikes (https://indiahikes.com)

Start/end locations:

The trek begins at Jobra, a short 1-hour drive from the town of Manali. Trekking ends at Chhatru. A tour to Chandra Tal, a picturesque moon-shaped lake, by car — if weather conditions permits.

Difficulty:

Moderate. Most of the walking is relatively easy, following established paths, but the climb up to the Hampta Pass itself is more challenging, since it is over a massive cover of glacier. Coupled with this is the fact that, most of the trek takes place at around 3,000 – 4,200m, high enough for altitude sickness to set in, potentially adding to the difficulty and discomfort levels. At certain points, it is necessary to cross 2-3 ft deep Mountain Rivers. (Exciting & adventurous as well!!).

Trek duration:

6 days. Total distance is around 30 km.

Remoteness:

Remote!! The route heads up into the mountains where there are no tourist facilities, tea houses or mobile signal. For the most part, the paths are well-established and easy to follow.

Accommodation type:

Accommodation is in tents along the way (Hillman tents)

Permits required:

None. But it is strongly recommended to attempt it only with an experienced guide. My personal opinion.


Day 1 – Jobra – 9,800 ft.

Reach the hotel designated by IndiaHikes team, meet fellow trekkers, collect and fill up the disclaimer forms, basic health check & collecting health cards, briefing by trek leader and his/her assistants (1 or 2 usually), collecting rentals, if any (Jackets/ trekking shoes/poles etc) & finally the lunch. The excitement was skyrocketing over the hotel roof and to our luck, the weather was picture perfect to start.







The base camp for the Hampta Pass trek is Jobra. It’s a short 1 hour drive from Prini (Manali), along 42 hair pins, bouncy ghat road, takes you to the hilltop.





From here a short trek of 30 mins took us to the campsite for the day. The weather today was sunny and the walk was relatively short. A simple trek through the pine forest, which is mainly green & moist. A constant stream of river could be seen and heard. This would be our source of drinking water for next few days.




Trek started off through this pine forest.


Enroute Jobra.





The Jobra campsite was setup in a picturesque location at an altitude of 9,800 ft. The views on both sides of the valley were mesmerizing. Most of the camping sites are near a stream (at safe distances). So one could hear the thunderous flow of Himalayan Mountain Rivers every night.




We had a separate dining tent set-up close to the camp site. India Hikes provides cooked food throughout the trek (even desserts!!!). Dining tent doubles up as health check-up center by the trek leader. He takes oximeter, BP & heart beat readings which are noted in the individual health card.


Milkyway Galaxy. Trial shot from my mobile.

Temperature was mildly cold, still one can sleep with just one layer of clothes and sleeping bag.

Day 2 – Jobra to Jwara (11,142 ft)

The next day schedule was like 5-6-7. (Depends on weather as well) Means, 5AM - tea time, 6AM – Breakfast & 7AM – Trek begins.


An early morning view.

From the valley of Jobra, crossing the river stream over a wooden plank, one can transverse on the meadows along the river banks. After some climb, mainly through stones and boulders, you’ll reach Chika, which is half-way through. We could see waterfalls in the high mountains right in front us.



Look back, you will see the snow-clad peaks and Himalayan eagles hovering over the misty mountain tops.

[redbaron91]

Right after Chika, comes the nerve chilling river crossing. The water was freezing cold, which makes the feet go numb in few seconds.


The river was not too big, but it had a very strong current. Needless to say, the water was freezing cold. I was knee deep in the water and I could feel the big boulders at the bottom and feet quickly went numb. The flow was not so worrying, but everyone made a human chain, holding each other, so as not to fall over.

On one side of the valley are the rock faces and on the other end is the river below. Once you cross the river, you are at Jwara where nature is at her dramatic best.



Around 5 hours trek will bring you to this paradise.


The landscape changes, so does the thrill level.


Jwara had everything, soothing for ones eyes – Streams, waterfall, meadows, snowclad mountains, mist, sunshine!!!


It was gently sunny when we reached there, with sunlight shimmering rocky side of the mountains. After taking the sumptuous lunch provided by the cooking staffs of India Hikes, I laid down on the meadow facing the mountains and I was fast asleep.

I woke up after almost an hour’s time and OMG it was such a beautiful view in front of me. The entire valley was engulfed in mist, with light cold breeze.


I spent a long time clicking pictures that evening!




And we also had our session of frizbee in late evening. Later, we had our dinner, health check-up, briefing for the next day, and went off to sleep!

Temperature remained cold and single layer with sleeping bag was cozy enough.

Day 3 – Jwara to Balu Ka Gera (12,411 ft)

Next morning, we started our routine by 6-7-8 schedule. We had cover an approximate distance of 6 Kms, it took us around 4-5 hrs. The trail was comparatively easier with moderate incline & plains. We trekked along the river and it looking nothing less than gorgeous.



After couple of kms, we entered the plains & we found ourselves walking in a beautiful valley with multiple water streams and grass in front of us.



We started getting closer to our campsite in Balu Ka Gera and the landscape started changing slightly.






We could see the towering mountain in front of us and the pass itself, covered in snow.


The ground was full of small yellow flowers and it add to the beauty of the place to a different level.

Soon after we reached out day’s campsite at Balu Ka Gera, and I must say this was the most beautiful campsite of the entire trek.


The camp is set at an altitude of 12,411 ft, and it is also the highest campsite of this trek.





There were numerous streams flowing next to the campsite which was feeding a small lake in front of the campsite. To the left side of the campsite, little higher from the ground, there was small waterfall and snow covering the stream below it.

This place elevates your mood (as well as slight headache because of altitude) and I won’t do justice to it, if I describe it in words.

That evening, we were supplied with spike to be used with our trekking shoes.



We had our own practice session on the thick snow near the waterfall, learning how to take steps while climbing up and down.This helped us in big way to walk confidently on the glacier which took us to the top of Hampta pass.

The day ended with usual briefing about the next day and the most important one was the early schedule for the next day.

Temperature was colder here, and I had 2 layers of clothing, liner and sleeping bag.

Day 4 – Balu Ka Gera to Shea Goru via Hampta pass (14, 065 ft)

The schedule was 5-5:45-6:30. I woke up early that morning to watch the sunrise. In Spite of being a misty morning, I could see the towering mountain top glimmering with sun rays.
It was a sight to behold.



For today’s trek it was informed to carry sufficient water (preferably upto 2L each), as we have to cross the pass then make our way through Spiti valley to find the next water source.

This was the longest & toughest part of the trek & so it demanded a decent level of fitness. We had to cover an approximate distance of 6 Kms by around 8-9 hours to reach Shea Goru. And for this day, we were given packed lunch by India Hikes.

Today’s trek can be broken into two stages – the climb to Hampta Pass which is moderately steep followed by a steep descent to Shea Goru over rocky, slippery boulders and mountain edges.


The initial part of the trek was easy, by climbing over the boulders right next to the small lake, which eventually took us to the foot of the glacier. Soon after that, the ascent began and we started gaining altitude and everyone could feel it.


Breathing becomes heavy and the matra was “slow & steady with short steps”. After gaining some altitude, during our regular break time, I looked back towards Balu Ka Gera and the entire valley looked stunning.



By around noon, we reached Hampta pass, I must say earlier than expected. Hampta was not even close to what I imagined it to be but nonetheless, I loved it!


It’s a narrow rocky trail on the edge of the highest mountain of that region and offers an amazing view of the Spiti Valley to one side to other side, one could see the towering Indrasan (20,000 ft).



Well, with this we were officially in Spiti Valley (Lahaul & Spiti District). I heard that the weather most of the times is pretty bad up here, but we were lucky! It was part cloudy and partly sunny and we had a great time clicking scores of pictures there!






After spending some time, we started our descent towards the Spiti valley. The descent was so steep at majority of place and the steps being so low that sometimes we had to sit to go to the one below. One thing you must be careful is not to hurry and really watch your step! You don’t want to twist your ankle here!




We could spot our campsite while our descent from the mountain!



A huge plain land of Shea Goru and tiny yellow and orange camps from above. Shea Goru is an almost level walk from here. You will find the river again, flowing to your right.

Enroute Shea Goru, we had to climb down a huge patch of snow. Most of us chose to take a controlled slide along it!!

[redbaron91]

Around 3pm we reached our campsite of the day –Shea Goru. This was the second most beautiful campsite of the trek.


I could not take my eyes off the plan land surrounded by green grass and the river flowing besides the tents. And, because we are at Spiti valley the place was so very cold and windy.




Day 5 – Shea Goru to Chhatru(10,898 ft) & drive to Chandratal lake (14,100 ft).

It was super cold next day morning, and I was wearing all my warm layers. The cold wind even made it worse. The last day of our trek and we had mixed feelings already!! Today we had to cover a distance of about 6kms and it took us around 4-5 hrs.


The trek was easy, with gradual inclines and gentle descent towards Chattru.








The final leg of the trek was in the plans, besides the speeding Chenab river.




That narrow strip of mud road is NH – 505 which leads to Gramphu.







We eventually reached a bridge, crossing it took us the campsite for the day. There were cabs waiting of us for the journey to the Chandararal. We quickly had our lunch and left for Chandrataal Lake.

It was super exciting to transverse the bouncy road to the Chandratal. Negotiating huge boulders, crossing streams, narrow roads, sometimes even driving over the stream, was so thrilling.



The journey to the lake was treacherous as I was seated in a Mahindra Bolero pick-up!



The shadows of clouds above create such a magical sight on those majestic mountains that it can’t be described! It took around 2-2.5 hours for us to reach the lake. The cars were parked and we had to walk a little to reach the lake.

I will let the pictures speak for the shear beauty of the place.




Chandrataal Lake is at the altitude of 14,074 ft. The sight of pristine water was beautiful with gorgeous backdrop.

The lake is fed by an underwater glacier and it’s shade can be enjoyed once you are over the near by hill.

After spending handful to time clicking photos, we head back to Chattru, to spend our evening at the tents. That night was the one with mixed feelings for everyone.


That tiny tents on the left are the dry toilets provided at IndiaHikes campsites.


Beautiful evening from Chhatru.

The food provided by Indiahikes cooks at each campsite was superb! I loved it in terms of variety, freshness and taste! We used to get sweets after dinner!!

Day 6 – Chattru to Manali drive

The last day at the foothills of mighty Himalayas and it is time to bid adieu to the scenic Spiti valley. We returned the rentals that we got at the start of our trek and left for Manali.
The drive back to Manali will take you through Rohtang Pass, which is well known for its beauty with all year around snow but also infamous for its long traffic jams thus start as early as possible.

Our cars were ready on time, and we placed our trekking bags in the Bolero. We started off our journey towards Rohtang Pass and eventually reaching Manali by noon.

Few pics enroute Manali.













I stayed back in Manali for next 2 more days, exploring the old town and trying out various local restaurants.


The balcony view of Manali from our resort.




One of the monastery, we visited at Manali.


Finally, the friendly squirrels of Jantar Mandir, Delhi.

[V.Narayan]

Those photos are some of the most scenic I have seen. Congratulations on your photography and thanks for sharing the narrative. Is the trek do-able by folks in late middle age who are moderately fit?

Thank you for letting the pictures tell the story. Some travelogues get so heavy with the narrative that they become a drag to read. Thank you for keeping it light and readable:-). Also thanks for not sharing umpteen photos of the food you ate. :-)

[laluks]

Nice log, and thanks for the pictures.
Which month was this trek done?

[Thermodynamics]

Very nice write up and pictures. You managed to get a shot of milky way using mobile phone

Could you share some tips the dos and don’ts, Eg. tips to avoid sun burn, should carry water disinfectant ?

[redbaron91]

Originally Posted by V.Narayan

Those photos are some of the most scenic I have seen. Congratulations on your photography and thanks for sharing the narrative. Is the trek do-able by folks in late middle age who are moderately fit?

Thank you for letting the pictures tell the story. Some travelogues get so heavy with the narrative that they become a drag to read. Thank you for keeping it light and readable:-). Also thanks for not sharing umpteen photos of the food you ate. :-)

Yes off course, it can be done. Work out and prepare yourself at least 4-6 weeks before your trek. There is an option to offload your luggage, which will be carried by mules. And, with an experienced trek leader, Hampta can be enjoyed & successfully completed.

Originally Posted by laluks

Nice log, and thanks for the pictures.
Which month was this trek done?

3rd week of July.

Originally Posted by Thermodynamics

Very nice write up and pictures. You managed to get a shot of milky way using mobile phone

Could you share some tips the dos and don’ts, Eg. tips to avoid sun burn, should carry water disinfectant ?

Most important is to carry what is absolutely necessary, so that your luggage weight is as less as possible. Carrying a 10 Kgs luggage on steep ascent and descent is not going to be easy. In mountains, I learned to live with minimal stuffs around me. My baggage was weighing around 5-6 Kgs for the 6 days trek.

Make sure you carry neck warmer, a balaclava, thermals, poncho & a pair of gloves to deal with weather conditions. I got my neck and ear lobes sun burnt badly, as I did not had anything to cover them.

Never compromise on the shoes what you use during Himalayan treks. Use proper trekking shoes, with good ankle support. In addition, trekking poles will come in handy during steep ascent.

Avoid carrying any plastic wraps & wet wipes. Regarding water, throughout the trek, I only had stream water, never had any issues. And remember, the stream water at those altitudes were freezing cold.

[hemanth.anand]

Thanks for sharing your experiences redbaron91. It's so refreshing just to see the pictures...I can imagine how refreshing it would've been to be there.

Wonderful pictures. For that milkyway shot, which mobile phone did you use?

[//M]

Great log redbaron91. I had almost decided to do the Hampta Pass Trek in 2015 after I did a winter trek in Zanskar. However, something urgent came up during my travel days and I had to postpone the trip. Sadly, I have not been able to find time yet. Meanwhile, I was able to do couple of treks in the Har Ki Dun Valley including the picturesque Kedarkantha Trek.

Thanks for this beautiful travelogue and great pictures. Hope to do the Hampta Pass Trek soon, even Rupin Pass has been in my bucket-list for quite some time now.

[NomadicLife]

Looking at those beautiful pictures were a treat to my eyes. Every time I was searching for the love or like button below the pics. I went to this trek in 2009 and it was I recall every bit seeing your travelogue.
Best of luck for your future endeavour.

[Maddy3008]

Very nicely written and captured ! I happened to do the same trek last year, that too with Indiahikes - Link (A Himalayan Odyssey: Trek to Hampta Pass). I agree, Hampta Pass is a great first timer's trek as it provides a lot of adventure and has a little risk (altitude and descent from Hampta Pass to Shea Goru).

Looking at your photos and the narration made me want to go back to the Himalayas and try another trek. I have not been making the same efforts to stay fit as last year, but no harm starting again

[ChiragM]

Nicely written travelogue with amazing pictures redbaron91. The Milkway shot is spectacular.

The trek looks tough and I hope to do it soon. How did you prepare for this? What other treks have you been on? Well done on the trek and thanks for sharing the really good pictures.

Hoping to read many more trekking logs from you.

[SUBRU]

Fantastic write up along with pictures which are pleasing to the eyes. Mountains and streams look pristine. Did trekking at high altitude cause any significant challenge ?

[redbaron91]

Originally Posted by ChiragM

Nicely written travelogue with amazing pictures redbaron91. The Milkway shot is spectacular.

The trek looks tough and I hope to do it soon. How did you prepare for this? What other treks have you been on? Well done on the trek and thanks for sharing the really good pictures.


Hoping to read many more trekking logs from you.

This was my first trek on Himalayas. Before this, I only had experiences in treks along the western Ghats.
I used to be fairly active & do basic workouts. For the trek, I prepared as mentioned by IndiaHikes. As per them, one should be able to run 5K under 30-40 mins. Plus, I did some core workouts and strengthening. This helped a lot as I could trek without any back, joint & muscle pain.
Wish you all the best for your treks too.

Originally Posted by SUBRU

Fantastic write up along with pictures which are pleasing to the eyes. Mountains and streams look pristine. Did trekking at high altitude cause any significant challenge ?

I was having fair bit of heavy breathing after crossing 12,000 ft and slight headache along the forehead during evenings. I used to take a short nap after each days trek and try to sleep as early as possible, so next day I was relieved off headache and ready for fresh start. Most important is to keep yourself well hydrated by drinking at least 5L/day.

I felt the last leg (around 30 mins) of reaching the top of Hampta pass was really challenging for me, because of steep ascent on glacier. Apart from that, everything went fine and I was able to trek and enjoy the scenic view as well.

[redbaron91]

Originally Posted by hemanth.anand

Thanks for sharing your experiences redbaron91. It's so refreshing just to see the pictures...I can imagine how refreshing it would've been to be there.

Wonderful pictures. For that milkyway shot, which mobile phone did you use?

Milky Way shots were surprising for me as well. I'm using Honor View 20. Since the surroundings were pitch dark, even with naked eye, one could make out the area of galaxy in the sky.