[ringoism]

Wow, quite an extensive write-up of a great place, thanks!

Brings me back to maybe Y2k when I did a shorter loop from Chiang Mai on a rented Honda Baja 250... a really great and distinctive, rugged dual-sport with an oval brush guard surrounding two big headlamps. In that case the proprietor was, if I remember, a middle-aged German man who'd settled down there and started his rental agency.

I ended up visiting Thailand a few more times over the years and was always impressed with the biking scene there; Medium-displacement imported multis were available on rent, but especially in the waning days of two strokes there were some extremely potent little "smokers" running around in daily use, and up along the Mekong in Issan province (basically Laotian culture/food/dialect) I had some thrilling rides. 150kmph (and still pulling hard) on a friend's bright red, freshly restored 150cc Yamaha crotch-rocket? Yes, it's possible - and if I'd been wearing a helmet I might've pushed it even further (ahhh, the follies of "youth"). Honda of Thailand seemed to have a degree of autonomy in their designs/operations, and I also spent some time out in the countryside on one of their featherweight step-throughs with a highly (factory) tuned 125cc, liquid-cooled two-stroke, with dual discs, six gears, expansion chamber and a nasty powerband... mind you it was already an old bike then, no later than a mid '90's model. Thailand was really advanced compared with India in terms of bike tech / market back then, and if life had been about nothing but bikes, I suppose I'd have ended up living there rather than here!

My little tour from Chiangmai was memorable for two incidents: First, after having wandered some distance down a little unmarked dirt side-track into the forest, I came to a clearing. And was stopped by a group of rather serious-looking men camped out there with guns, who seemed a bit uptight at my entry and started trying to convey something obviously of critical importance, with about two known words of English (always the trouble in Thailand). I was bewildered and figured minimally that I ought to turn around and leave, but just then one of them stepped forward from the back (must've been 15-20 of them) who spoke a bit of my language and in a friendlier manner explained that the hill overlooking us was where the Queen's residence was situated, that they were her guard, and that I was trespassing. Oops. That's where aimless, of-the-cuff exploration can sometimes get you. Apologies sincerely expressed, I turned to try and leave when they stopped me and asked me to sit down at the table, which I did. There before me was a huge glass jar filled with an evil-looking concoction of jungle roots, leaves, bark, etc, in a crystal clear fluid. I asked what it was, the reply being an offer for me to try some. Ehh...Not sure about that... but wasn't sure I was being given a choice, and it seemed a potentially happy way to diffuse the situation. It turned out to be predictably untasty - and about the strongest alcohol I'd ever partaken of, and needless to say, the conversation flowed very easilly and happily afer that. Awhile later, all good friends I suppose, I headed back up the trail in a rather fuzzy aura, praying I wasn't going to go blind or worse, and not sure at all I should be operating any machinery. Fortunately, no ill-effects till now (AFAIK - though some may be of a different opinion).

Secondly: I'd stopped along a beautifully-paved two-lane at a designated scenic overlook from where I could soak in views of endless hills stretching out in the distance. Took photos for awhile, rested, then climbed back on the Baja, and headed down the road. Not a minute later, having got up to some speed, pure terror... a Honda sedan coming straight towards me in my lane... "Idiot!"... I started pulling off to the side, just as I realized that I was traveling in the right (i.e., wrong) lane myself! A momentary but serious lapse. I was coming straight from North America, uninitiated re driving on the "wrong" side... But here again by God's grace I escaped unscathed.

All my photo prints (these were pre-digital days) from those yearswere all ruined in a flood in my brothers basement. I think I still have the negatives and someday hope to find time to scan them, but for now, I rely on the mental pictures.. which are vivid.

It is a wonderful land with some some great roads, quite good driving habits, and really wonderful foods... Though even after several visits I could never quite get myself immersed to the point of ingesting live (and kicking/wiggling/jumping) shrimp/minnows or raw beef preparations... In that sense mainland India, even with its vast variety of colorful and spicy cuisines, is comparatively conservative, "safe" and conventional.

-Eric

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Brilliant travelogue. Thanks for sharing - hoping to do this ride someday!

Honda CBX 500 would have been an excellent bike in the Indian context - I believe, if Honda had decided to launch it here. What were your impressions of the bike?

[coolmind]

Great travelogue! Can be a bible for the enthusiasts.
Eye lashes for the headlamp in one of the pics sounded very interesting and unique.
By the way, I could see no pics of beaches. Can you please post a few?

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

The rental agencies across Thailand offer helmets for both driver and pillion with the bikes, even if you take a scooter. I believe this this due to the regulations over there. Choice of helmets are generally dependent on the range of options that the rental agency keeps at their end.

Indian license is accepted. Can't recollect about insurance, but I believe for cheaper scooters within the Chiang Mai city, they give you a basic slip and trust the system won't trouble tourists for checks. Also one can choose to go for the full insurance at additional costs if s/he prefers to.

Of course, Santosh will give more details wrt their trip.

Santosh,
Beautiful travelogue. I keep telling folks about the wonderful northern interiors of Thailand than just the beaches; this is now a good reference. Also, the national park around Doi Inthanon has some of Thailand's most beautiful waterfalls too. I guess your timelines didn't really give you options to do that.

Long time back puttered around Chiand Mai (and somewhat beyond) on a Honda Cub. It was either that (or similar) or litre bikes.
No helmet available.
Kept my Indian license, and gave me a chit in its place.
Expected back with a full tank. Realised later that when I took it, the tank was not really full. Don't know whether that was a one-off or regular feature.

For me Chiang Mai anyday, but family prefers beaches!

Regards
Sutripta

[alphadog]

That was an amazing travelogue, and that too on a bike . Thanks for sharing. It is even better when your other half shows the same keen interest in the adventure on a bike as you.

The bike you have rented, I reckon, could get good numbers in India, if Honda decides to sell it here. Wonder why they don't. I am sure they have their reasons.

A few questions -How did you find the road manners and the awareness of other traffic to bikers, in Thailand?. Did you ever feel unsafe?. What was the approximate costs for your whole trip as a couple, including the flights and rentals?

Keep riding and keep traveling.

Cheerio!

[rk_sans]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

Yet another fantastic ride and travelogue! And how I regret not joining this!

I was just trying to understand how you did this loop and plotted the places on the maps. Zooming in on the maps shows why it is one of the most beautiful places in the world to ride, what with beautiful scenery and curvy roads - it is a biker's paradise! Someday hopefully!

Yes Suhas, you did miss big time on the fun we had. Thanks for the round route map, i forgot to add it. Small correction in it, google is showing Mae Chaem wrongly, i have posted the corrected one.

Originally Posted by hifisharu

@rksans: Excellent travelogue Saar, loved the attention to detail and the meticulous planning. Look forward to riding with you at one of such destinations some time in the near future. Or if you're planning a bike ride in Europe sometime, would love to join in with you.

Thanks Sharat, hopefully time will come to ride in Europe too.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

What sort of helmet did you get? Or did you carry your own?

@Sutripta,
We took from the Bike rental place itself. Mr.Lan of C&P Bikes had good collection of helmets.

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Santosh, very nice travelogue with some great pics. Am sure you guys had a great time. Yeah I also wanted to know about the helmets.

Also, I might have missed this - what about license? Insurance?

OT - nice to see that you still have the CBR 250R.

@naveenroy,
English written license are accepted but it's not on the rule book. Mr.Lan was mentioning that cops have become little strict on asking license inside Chiang Mai city but not anywhere else.
With regards to Insurance, if you specifically need one you can ask them and they will charge you extra for it. But when renting from good places like from Mr.Lan, you needn't worry at all. Thankfully we didn't encounter any such scenarios but what i read about Mr.Lan was that he is very professional and does not over-charge for any damages, etc. In fact, that was the main criteria while i was looking for rentals. In fact, when we returned the bikes, he didn't even check the conditions of the bike nor the petrol quantity in the bike(one of the bike he had given full tank when we took it).

oh Yes, CBR stays forever and you know it why it stays.

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Santosh,
Beautiful travelogue. I keep telling folks about the wonderful northern interiors of Thailand than just the beaches; this is now a good reference. Also, the national park around Doi Inthanon has some of Thailand's most beautiful waterfalls too. I guess your timelines didn't really give you options to do that.

@ninjatalli, thanks a lot.
Definitely, every biker should try this stretch once, it is mesmerizing.
We had limited time to cover plus we were in the middle of hot summer, so even Mae Pan Waterfall didn't had much water.

Originally Posted by kingofmyworld

That's the exact month, year, bike vendor and route that me and a friend did! The only difference was we did it in the first half of april when LAN dint move to the new store where you guys picked up the bike from. We did it around Sonkran. What a brilliant ride it was!

@kingofmyworld,
Good to know that. Then, Sonkran would have been very good timing to you.

Originally Posted by ringoism

Wow, quite an extensive write-up of a great place, thanks!

It is a wonderful land with some some great roads, quite good driving habits, and really wonderful foods... Though even after several visits I could never quite get myself immersed to the point of ingesting live (and kicking/wiggling/jumping) shrimp/minnows or raw beef preparations... In that sense mainland India, even with its vast variety of colorful and spicy cuisines, is comparatively conservative, "safe" and conventional.

-Eric

@Eric,
I bet nobody cannot forget the experience this Northern Thailand gives one. I am hitching to go back, pick one off-road bike and try some of the interior routes.
Thanks for sharing your experience too. Totally agree on this wonderful land, very good driving habits. Yes, food is one of the bizzare things on this wonderful land and we struggled finding good vegetarian food. But seven eleven stores and fruits were there for our rescue.

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Brilliant travelogue. Thanks for sharing - hoping to do this ride someday!

Honda CBX 500 would have been an excellent bike in the Indian context - I believe, if Honda had decided to launch it here. What were your impressions of the bike?

@Crazy_driver
Thanks a lot.
CBX500, if launched in India, i will be the first one to put the money on it. Absolutely all rounder and more then sufficient for our indian roads. Very linear power band and even with the tail box, pillion, handling was amazing.

Originally Posted by coolmind

Great travelogue! Can be a bible for the enthusiasts.
Eye lashes for the headlamp in one of the pics sounded very interesting and unique.
By the way, I could see no pics of beaches. Can you please post a few?

@coolmind,
Thanks a lot. I guess Krabi needs one more travelogue by itself, so didn't share any beaches photo. Will find some and add it.

Originally Posted by alphadog

That was an amazing travelogue, and that too on a bike . Thanks for sharing. It is even better when your other half shows the same keen interest in the adventure on a bike as you.

A few questions -How did you find the road manners and the awareness of other traffic to bikers, in Thailand?. Did you ever feel unsafe?. What was the approximate costs for your whole trip as a couple, including the flights and rentals?

Keep riding and keep traveling.

Cheerio!

@alphadog
Thanks a lot. Yes, thankfully better half also likes to travel, blessing in disguise
Road manners are one of the best in Thailand. Every one respects each other driving skills and in cities they give way to pedestrians.
With regards to costing, here is the appx breakup,

10k for couple, for food, accommodation, petrol, taxi, etc, etc.
12k for Bike rental
20k per head flight from Bangalore to Bangkok, Bangkok to Chiang Mai and Return.
So it was Appx 62k per couple for 5 days all inclusive home to home . Flight charges were little high as i booked just one month earlier.

[naveenroy]

Originally Posted by rk_sans

@naveenroy,
English written license are accepted but it's not on the rule book. Mr.Lan was mentioning that cops have become little strict on asking license inside Chiang Mai city but not anywhere else.
With regards to Insurance, if you specifically need one you can ask them and they will charge you extra for it. But when renting from good places like from Mr.Lan, you needn't worry at all. Thankfully we didn't encounter any such scenarios but what i read about Mr.Lan was that he is very professional and does not over-charge for any damages, etc. In fact, that was the main criteria while i was looking for rentals. In fact, when we returned the bikes, he didn't even check the conditions of the bike nor the petrol quantity in the bike(one of the bike he had given full tank when we took it).

oh Yes, CBR stays forever and you know it why it stays.

Ah thanks for that info. My question about insurance was also about personal/health insurance. Accidental coverage etc. Did you guys take any? What with the insurance scene in this country, I always worry about accidental/health coverage.

[rk_sans]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Ah thanks for that info. My question about insurance was also about personal/health insurance. Accidental coverage etc. Did you guys take any? What with the insurance scene in this country, I always worry about accidental/health coverage.

All my travel trips are always accompanied with travel insurance. I generally take the normal travel insurance by ICICI lombard or HDFC Ergo. These travel insurance is about 800 to 1500 INR for 7-8 days of travel.