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Old 18th November 2018, 21:04   #1
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The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

When the mountains call

The heart yearns to follow

The road yonder croons its melody

The mind gives in

The horses in the machine roar with glee

The moment beckons surrender

To ecstatic family delight

Which leads to the jackpot questions – when and where ? The first part was a no brainer , with Durga Puja holidays around the corner, that was the time.

There are three categories of Bongs : the first totally abhor and baulk at the mere mention of leaving Kolkata during the pujas , the third actually make it a point to take a vacation during the pujas, and lastly the second, who do a bit of both on different occasions. We fall in this second category, though we seem to be in transit to category number three ! With hordes of touristy Bongs being unleashed during the Pujas , all modes of transport out of Kolkata are booked in advance and so are most types of accommodation.

How does transport bother us , when we have a set of four wheels and a hundred horses clamouring to be let loose ! That was part one dusted off. Part deux had to be mountains , and what is closest to home than enchanting Sikkim! This is where part deux branches off – “where in Sikkim ?”, we have been off and on there a gazillion times , with or without our own steed and have ticked off nearly every tourist destination.

Oh wait , there is a place in Sikkim in our bucket list ; but whenever we planned a visit , it did not take off – it was jinxed. This is a jewel tucked away in North Sikkim , “Dzongu” as it is called – the mystical abode of the Lepchas. We thought – lets tempt fate one more time – Dzongu it is going to be. The idea was simple – we will have a laid back holiday , park ourselves in Dzongu , laze for a few days and soak in its beauty – essentially do nothing. A bit of research later , our accommodation in Dzongu was selected and booked ; leave was applied for and we started the countdown. But fate and Lady Luck had a wry smile , they knew the “stay put” threshold of a wanderlust struck Bong family. Do read on if you are not bored sufficiently enough.

United Colours of Gurudongmar


The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-0001-united-colors-gurudongmar.jpg

Roads End

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We were eagerly waiting for the weeks to roll by, when the news came that Farakka road bridge would be “closed” for repairs for over 6 to 8 months , starting during the Pujas. Farakka is the only life line over the Ganga that connects North Bengal and beyond , this was serious news indeed. Those who have traversed the bridge know and dread its lunar surface, it direly needs maintenance. Possibly the best use of the long first gear of the Duster AWD is in this stretch – just put it into gear and “sleep” through the 2.25 kms of bridge. The alternate is through Bhagalpur , but Vikramshila Setu too was closed for repairs. Then news trickled in – the bridge was not fully closed , but traffic was being let through; with work simultaneously on during daylight hours. "Work" meant several tens of Kilometers of standstill truck traffic on both sides of the bridge. There was no way out , so we decided to brave it , armed with the information that police manned the route and was directing vehicles to take the opposite flank of the expressway and bypass the queued trucks. We chose to try our luck and cross early morning, and this meant a very early morning dash from home , read a 0245 hrs start. The time was chosen with an ulterior motive as well , where I stay , hosts a blockbuster Kolkata Puja. This is possibly the only time I can dream of navigating the lanes and scoot with my vehicle.

Then there was cyclone Titli. Mid Oct may not be “the best” time to have a clear view of the mighty Himalayas , but it generally behoves clear weather. The aftermath of the cyclone on North Sikkim weather did not augur well for clear skies , but what cannot be helped - cannot be helped.

Day 1 was Kolkata to Siliguri , with a night stay planned there. This passed off uneventfully and we made good time , navigating Farakka did not prove to be a problem , we actually crossed it much faster than usual. En-route, we took the under construction Malda Bypass. Hope that it is officially opened “soon” , it will be a boon to completely bypass traffic gridlocked Malda town and zoom away. The update is posted in the official thread. The bonus was traversing the Bengal to Bengal Botolbari to Dhantola route (bypassing the infamous Dalkhola logjam) in broad daylight , the greenery of agrarian Bengal was amazing to say the least!


Road surface being dismantled over Farakka barage (Dashcam grab)

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Bengal Greens - somewhere between Botolbari and Dhantola (Dashcam grabs)

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Day 2 was reserved for a leisurely drive from Siliguri to Dzongu .

The butter smooth highway through forests around Sevoke that transports you to the hills.
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-005sevoke-.jpg


There were quite a few BHPians headed to North Bengal and Sikkim during the holidays. This is what we saw as we ground to a halt behind an Eon at a railway crossing.

Dashcam Grab
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gearhead_mait
started the same day from Kolkata but at a later time , we had been in contact but did not meet on the road. He had another car with him that was behind me and noticed my Duster as he got down !

Dashcam Grab
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Time for a micro TBHP meet on the road


Dashcam Grab
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Soumyajit , please do post the outcome of operation selfie!

Soon it was time to enter Sikkim again (Dashcam Grab)

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We took the Singtam to Dikchu route to Mangan , this is a direct route that does not need a detour through Gangtok. The road all the way upto Rang Rang bridge (just before Mangan) is fairly good. The entry to Dzongu is via a single lane bridge over the Teesta through Sankalang / Sungklong check post. The homestay owner took care of our permits and it was ready for us and waiting at the Checkpost.

Entry to Dzongu (Dashcam Grab)

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A bit about Dzongu

Dzongu is an enclave preserved for the Lepchas in North Sikkim , it falls under the Kanchenjunga Biosphere Reserve and is flanked by the mighty Teesta and borders Kanchenjunga National park. Lepchas were the original inhabitants of Sikkim and this land was ordained for them by the Chogyals of Sikkim in the sixties. Lepchas believe that good deeds in life earn them eternal bliss in Mayal-Lang (Heaven) and this is their pristine Mayal country. It is a triangular area of roughly 78 Sq Km , ranging in height from 3000 to 20,000 ft , with a population of 4500+ heads spread over 38 villages. It is a land of pristine beauty and natural diversity , a place where time stands still , a place that instantly calms and soothes your soul. It is a protected area and entry permits are required for all outsiders to enter. Permits can be made in Mangan or Gangtok , or better still your Homestay owner will make it for you in advance , if you share necessary details before your travel. There are no hotels here , it is an ecotourism preserve and homestays are available. Most of these are basic , but if you keep your expectations low , you will be blown over by the hospitality , the breath taking views , the lip smacking local cuisine , and the amazing flora and fauna. Dzongu is divided into Upper and Lower Dzongu with Homestays available is few villages like Passigndong , Tingvong , Lingthem , Lingdong , Hee Gyathang etc. It is also a trekkers paradise where many villages can be covered on foot (some of these probably have home stays as well) . There are day long (Tholung Monastery) to week long treks available. The longer trek is to the Keushong valley with Keushong Lake. It is also called Keushong Tso Lake or Kishong Lake and lies at an altitude of of about 14,800 ft above the sea level.

The main entry to Dzongu is through the Sankalang / Sungklong check post , which is below Mangan. The other entry is through Pheedang check post near Dikchu Bazar. The settlements of Ship-Gyer needs entry via the third check post near Tung. Presently, only the Sankalang check post serves as the main entry point. A devastating landslide in August 2016 , saw an entire mountainside come down on the Teesta and create Mantam lake. This unfortunately completely cut off road connectivity between upper and lower Dzongu and severely damaged roads and bridges that connects the Pheedang entry point with Sankalang. Sadly, most of the destroyed infrastructure is yet to be rebuilt. The area is landslide prone and incessant monsoon rains do not help matters. There is no direct road connectivity left to the popular homestays in Tingvong. Post the landslide , you needed to switch transports on either side of the Teesta riverbank and cross the river on a bamboo structure. Thankfully instead of the makeshift structure there is a brand-new suspension foot bridge over the Teesta. But new landslides on the Tingvong side made the road impassable even upto the suspension bridge head, you need to climb up 30 mins from the bridge to reach the motorable road. In dry season , when the water level is low , high GC vehicles are able to wade and cross the Teesta. Now even these cannot make it upto Tingvong as the road is washed away till a point much further up. A new road bridge over the Teesta restoring connectivity between upper and lower Dzongu has been sanctioned , but it remains to be seen when the same is ready for traffic. There are only a few patches of properly surfaced roads in the entire region , the rains and the landslides ensure that mostly of the roads are either mud , gravel , stones or boulders.


The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-dzongu.jpg
Link to Map source

Articles published by DevilonWheels and timestravel provides a lot of insight on Dzongu , with details on places to stay. A great T-Log by 1100D (Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD) provided the missing links and helped us decide where to stay !

Welcome to Dzongu

We chose to stay in the homestay run by Mr Samdup Lepcha in the quaint hamlet of Lingthem - Lingthem Lyang. It is a relatively new place that has opened since a year and provides jaw dropping views of the Kachendzonga on a clear day. It is tucked amidst terraces covered with lush green paddy and cardamom plantations - you can spend hours gazing at the greenery with the clouds and mists wafting around. It is great for your health as well - there is a small matter of 134 steps that need to be negotiated to reach the house from the road below. A couple of sorties in the day and you are sorted as far as calories are concerned !


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The place is owned by Samdup and his lovely wife Dechen , while his nephew Pintsok is the chargé d'affaires. The combined hospitality will simply blow you away. Samdup is part of an NGO named Children of Sikkim Foundation and is deeply involved in the cause. When not taking care of the guests , Pintsok is part of a band named Sofyum and travels all over India for performances. He is an adept player of the Tung Buk (Lepcha stringed instrument) and Puntong Palit (Lepcha Flute). The proverbial soul of the place is Samdup's mom , the grand old lady is present everywhere and presides over everything , she is a dynamo of pure energy.

You would be served lip smacking local delicacies during your stay - almost everything grown and sourced locally to titillate your taste buds.

Dusty Loves to Pose

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The Mountain that slid off in 2016

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The handiwork of Pintsok





The artificial dam that created Mantam lake

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We choose to stay at Lingthem not only for the views and hospitality , but you can drive till the homestay as well. Cars cannot go upto Tingvong anymore as there is no road connectivity. There are quite a few places that can be explored around , you can drive , walk , trek - or simply read a book or two while soaking up the views. Many tourists just make it a night halt on their way up or down North Sikkim , that is a sin ! You need at least a few days to allow Dzongu to overpower your senses!

Perched

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Kheti Baari

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The Five Treasures of the High Snow aka Kanchendzonga

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How are the roads you say , mostly like this , have a look :





Duster and the Peak!

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Transfixed

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Quiet flows the Teesta

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Ispaar ya Uspaar (New suspension footbridge - connecting Tingvong and beyond)


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Mantam Lake


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Recent landslides (Sep'18) had destroyed roads around the road head at the end of the suspension footbridge on the Tingvong side. One has to trek close to a kilometer (upwards) to get to motorable roads on the Tingvong side.

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Oh what a crowded school ! Do read the total pupil strength at the Government Secondary school,Tingvong - circa 2018.

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Bravely hanging on and connecting lives..


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Bouncing up and down the bridge - a sliver of wisdom struck suddenly - here I am , just about a 100 Km from sublime Gurudongmar and exquisite Yumthang - was I sleeping when I prepared the itinerary . Why are these left out ? This would be sacrilege ! But hang on , we have been to North Sikkim in 2010 and "seen the views" - aha - that was the reason ! Naah, flawed reasoning I say - in 2010 the Romanian's were just setting up their factory and tooling to produce the Duster , and here eight years on, I am hobnobbing with an AWD from big daddy Renault - not going now will invite the wrath of the Dusty. End of decision making - we have to visit our old haunts indeed - now for the elusive permits!



Last edited by Aditya : 26th November 2018 at 07:40. Reason: Rule #11
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Old 24th November 2018, 22:55   #2
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

With this new zeal in life , I literally pounced on Samdup to help conjure up the permits. After all, his other nephew Norpa, works for the Government at Mangan DC office. Getting the permits should be short work indeed. But alas , the Puja holidays have been a hit at Sikkim as well. So much so that the local government had declared a week long holiday. With the DC office at Mangan closed , there was no hope for the permits except from Gangtok. Samdup helpfully said - "Sir apko pehle bolna chaihiye thah , eksath bane k rak deta tha aapke liye , aisa jhamela nehi hota". I was suitably chastised , "lekin kya kare - ab jana to parega" . A deal was struck - Norpa was leaving next day and he would check whether any signatories were around in Mangan , otherwise , he will take a try in Gangtok. Our prayers went in vain when we learnt the next day that there was no one around to sign the permits. We then waited with baited breath for some news from Gangtok. Our prayers were answered when the next day evening, a relative of Samdup arrived from Gantok carrying the prized piece of parchment. Little did we know then that the main act was yet to play out..

A couple of days planned stay at Dzongu actually helped to navigate "permit raj" , but then it was poor planning from my end to begin with - not to mention juggling around return journey dates and leaves. Herein lies the beauty of an unplanned driving holiday - you can change itineraries at will ! The casualties in our case were a few days planned rest back in Bongland and one extra day of leave - small price to pay compared to what was about to unfold.

Lingzya Falls

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Nature's Canvas

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Bye Bye Lingthem

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L to R : Samdup , Yours truly , My better half , Samdup's Mom , Janine , Dechen and Mika. Janine and Mika are part of COSF (Children of Sikkim Foundation) and are regulars to India and Sikkim. We were lucky to have their company during our stay at Lingthem Lyang.

Early next morning , chattering and puttering, we left for our return tryst with the remainder of North Sikkim. There was to be a short break at Mangan for various reasons. To tank up , Mangan has the last fuel pump in the area. Buy a pair of shades for my daughter , she donated (read broke) a pair at Tingvong. Buy some woolens for her as well , we were literally just carrying one jacket each as Dzongu did not warrant anything more at this time of the year. And last but not the least , kill a few more trees and make a few dozen photocopies of the permit, needless to say , each checkpost on the way would demand it's own pound of flesh.

I went to find a photocopy shop in Mangan Bazar while wifey quietly took charge of Shade and Jacket shopping with practiced elan! The lad at the photocopy place took one look at the permit and said "Sir iska doosra parchi kahan hein ?, yeh to pehla page hai , sirf isse nehi chalega" The euphoria vanished - I had already committed cardinal sin number one - not scrutinizing an official document on receipt. I mean, I did give it a glance when I received it , it was an almost illegibly written page with places of visit , names and dates written on it. But there were no photographs , address and the prized stamp on the mug shots. Alarm bells should have rung yesterday evening , but an overdose of Dzongu had dulled my senses. Transpires that there are two varieties of permits - the one issued at Gangtok is a two page affair , where the first page is the permit itself and the second page is the addendum with the actual photo and details of the travelers and the vehicle . We were missing page number two and thus stranded. On the other hand , the second variety of permit that is issued directly from Mangan is a single page affair with all necessary details , rubber stamp , photo et all. The shopkeeper helpfully added "Office to sab bandh hai , permit to issue nehi ho sakta , aap ekbar police station ja k puchiye agar woh log kuch kar sakte apke liye"

Hauled up wifey from her shopping soujourn and we trooped into a rather well built and very well maintained Mangan police station where we narrated our plight. We were given a very patient hearing , but were politely told that nothing could be done as police could not sign the permit , signatories are from the DC office in Mangam and all were on leave. Frantic calls to Samdup followed , and pretty interesting options were discussed but nothing that would result in an official signature and blue rubber stamp.

This is where S B Tamang stepped in. Mamaji as he is known locally, is a staff at the Mangan Police Station. He saw the despair on our faces and took it upon himself to help us. He called up a signatory on leave and informed the official that we had a missing part of permit so whether anything could be done. Turns out that "one " blank and signed permit was available at the police station for emergency use , approval was obtained to use the same. The permit was knighted with our details and mugshots, and we were all set after a delay of a couple of hours - whew! We were really touched by attitude and ethics in display at the police station , they genuinely wanted to help us. Sikkim has all sorts of surprises for you.


The ever helpful S B Tamang , without whose personal intervention, the rest of the travelogue would not have been possible.

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The photocopy walla and Mr Tamang were cosmic coincidence number one and two. Had the incomplete permits come photocopied from Gangtok , we would have been shooed away from Tung Checkpost. This was several kilometers ahead and would have robbed us from the opportunity to get it done at Mangan. Ditto, if Mr Tamang was not around when we visited the police station. As they say - all is well that ends well !

After a sumptuous early lunch consisting of a few dozen Momos at Mangan , and armed with the elusive permit, we drove on to the heights! Mangan to Chungthang is about 30kms with Tung coming almost midway. Tung is the entry point for Lachen and Lachung and the first check point. Thanks to the strategic nature of the road , we saw that it has been widened and nicely surfaced. Bear in mind that this is only true for the stretches where Nature had decided to lay back. When she is in a belligerent mood and calling the shots , you get these...

Dascam grabs..
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In Sep'18 , back to back landslides on the opposite sides of Mangan marooned the town for a few days. The washed away bridge on the photo above was at one end - just as you leave Mangan for Tung. The landslide prone stretches are really bad and need very careful negotiation.

Next in line was the brand new Theng Tunnel , the longest in Sikkim !

Dashcam grab.
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The 578m long tunnel was inaugurated in June and bypasses a treacherous stretch of landslide prone road around Theng town. This is now the longest tunnel in Sikkim!

In its endeavor to go green and for a pollution free North Sikkim , use of plastics and especially that of disposable water bottles are banned. Vehicles can be subjected to random searches enroute - and disposable plastic water bottles , if found , will attract hefty fines.

The gateway to Gurudongmar is Lachen village , perched at 8500 Ft and 26Km from Chungtang (5800 Ft). This is where travelers halt for the night before an early morning dash to the lake.

"Pass" operation at Lachen (Dashcam grab)

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An early morning departure is warranted from Lachen and we were on our way by 0415 hrs. The first halt is at Thangu , 34 Kms away and at 13000 Ft. The permits are checked here and the "gate" opens at 0730 hrs to traffic for Gurudongmar. It is pure mayhem at the checkpost with snaking queues and a sea of vehicles. This is why an early start is mostly recommended - to beat the queue. That and the weather at the lake , which gets very windy from noon onwards. Thangu also serves as a pitstop for breakfast. Most of the road as you approach Thangu is in bad condition. Thangu also has homestays available , compared to the hotels at Lachen , these are basic but your stay would be amidst raw nature.

Thangu
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Thangu to Gurudongmar is 32 Kms with Giagong (15000 Ft) in between. Permits are rechecked at Giagong and tokens are issued in lieu of the original. The original permit needs to be collected in return for the token , on the way back.

Giagong
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From Thangu to Giagong , the roads are being widened. You get perfectly paved tarmac 14kms out from Gurudongmar , it is a delight to drive on the flat valley , 17000 Ft up !

Yak Yak
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When the Chauffeur needs a break ..
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Lake Ahoy (the main road continues on to Kerang Military post and a part branches off to Tso Lhamo lake further ahead)
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First of a kind - TBHP Micro meet at 17,800 Ft !
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Samba informed me the day before that Sayata was also travelling to Gurudongmar on the same day. We decided to meet at the lake for a dizzying micro meet! And before you ask , no that is not his Scorp that you see , he was with a group and travelling in a hired vehicle.

What do I say to describe the handiwork of God , let the pictures do the speaking instead. The ethereal beauty mesmerizes every traveler !

Beauty and the Beast
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Holy Waters
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Merry Go round
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Panorama
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Basking
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Abode of the Guru
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Insignificance
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Dusted by the Duster
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Dusty and the Clouds
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United Colors of Gurudongmar
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Road to Heaven
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Unfortunately the place of worship on the shore has closed. You do not need a shrine to be close God , specially at such a place!

We spent close to two hours on the lake , going down and almost walking halfway around the pathway that encircles the lake. We did that back in 2010 as well. It is a myth that you get breathless and cannot stay for more than a few minutes around the lake. Probably some do get sick , but it is mostly not true.We saw people leaving within a few minutes without a chance to savor the beauty.

Eight years on , we were happy to note that the lake is still pristine

Time Travel - then and now
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-timelapse1.jpg

Last edited by DriveTrain : 25th November 2018 at 16:29.
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Old 25th November 2018, 10:53   #3
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Next up was Kalapathar and Chopta, on the return leg from Gurudongmar. Chopta at 14000 Ft is a pristine valley and a bifurcation at Thangu takes you there. The summer months turn it into a valley of flowers. Kalpathar lies at a a distance of about 13 kms from Thangu and about 15000 Ft up , it is wondrous snow land ! Snow is found here all year round , we experienced a mini snowfall while up there. Being very close to the border, the road here is very strategic and is being widened. The road continues after Kalapathar in the general direction of Lhonak but it is restricted for civilians.

Heavenly Chopta
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Cloud and Snow Kalapathar
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Ice Cool
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Contrast
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It was late afternoon by the time we returned to Thangu. Thangu to Lachung is about 81kms and we made it there by late evening. Lachung lies at a height of 8800 Ft and is about 21 kms from Chungthang. It is the gateway to Yumthang valley , Yumesamdong (Zero point) and the Singba Rhododendron sanctuary. In spring / early summer , with the Rhododendrons in full bloom , it is a treat for the optic and olfactory nerves!

Dashcam grab
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Quiet flows the Lachung Chu
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Yumthang Valley
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Yumthang is about 26km from Lachung and at a height of 12000 Ft. Roads are again generally ok in this region as well , except for the landslide prone parts. There is one particular stretch just as you approach Yumthang valley where the main route has been washed away. The track hugs close to the river bed and climbs up , it is full of stones and small boulders of different shapes , sizes and hues - a wrong move might mean bye bye sump or differential !

Fate Or Recklessness ? Dashcam grab
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Striking a Balance
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Road's end Zero point
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-063-roads-end.jpg

Zero point (Yumesamdong) is a further 25 Km from Yumthang and lies at a height of 15,300 Ft. Incidentally , Zero point does not have snow all year round , right now that place is Kalapathar. Tourist hordes used to flock Zero point to visit the snow line , they still do so , but it is a barren beauty that greets them.

There seems to be gem of a trek route between Cholamu (Tso Lhamo Lake) and Zadong (near Yumesamdong) via the Dongkha La pass. Tso Lhamo can be reached by road from Gurudongmar but is out of bound for civilians , unless you have contacts in the army. Incidentally the glacial waters of Tso Lhamo and Gurudongmar gives birth to the mighty Teesta river.

How to raise a fallen electric pole Dashcam grab
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-064-how-raise-pole.jpg

Beautiful Lachung
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-065-beautiful-lachung.jpg



The plan was to visit Katao on the same day after returning from Zero point. A fluffy blanket of clouds greeted us at Lachung on our return in the afternoon and we decided to give it a miss till next day morning. Our return to the City of Joy was to be on the next day , we decided to work out another early morning detour and combine the dash home with a round trip to Katao.

Katao is 24 kms from Lachung at a height of 15,000 ft. It is very close to the border and special permits are needed with consent from the army to visit the place , this we did not have. However one can go upto the military check post with the general permits and this is what we did , proper Katao is a further 10kms from this point. Katao provides panoramic views of the Lachung valley.

Call of the Mountains
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-066-call-mountains.jpg

Road to Life Lachung Valley
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-067-road-life.jpg

Blending In
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-068-blending-.jpg

Contemplating Life
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-069-contemplating-life.jpg

Adorning the Bridge Khanda Water Fall
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-070-adorning-bridge.jpg

Touching the Clouds
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-071-touching-clouds.jpg



Armoured Beast Dashcam grab
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-072-armoured-beast.jpg
If only I had one of these ! What a ride it would be.

A trip back to the hotel to freshen up and we were all set for the long drive back home.

Meandering Ways Chungthang town
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-073-meandering-ways.jpg



We ran into Mr Tamang again while having a lunch break at Mangan and profusely thanked him for making the journey possible.

A call to WBTDC- Raigunj Tourist Lodge meant that we had piping hot dinner waiting for us on the move. Farakka did not throw up a surprise during the return leg as well. For both the onward and return leg , we took the standard Kolkata - Bardhaman - Moregram - Farakka - Malda - Raigunj - Botolbari - Dhantola - Siliguri route.

The journey of about 750 Kms from Lachung to Home , from 8800 Ft to 17 Ft above MSL was completed in about 21 hours. It was mostly uneventful except for the "dhamaka" at the end! We had a Shyamoli Paribahan Volvo keeping us company from Moregram and it helped us navigate the fog enroute Bardhaman.

Kolkata was starved of heavy goods vehicles for five days on a trot , due to entry restrictions on the occasion of Durga Puja. The very morning we were returning back , the curbs were lifted and the marauding beasts were let loose. It was pure mayhem as the ravenous trucks hogged every inch of the road and led to serpentine queues. The queue for Dankuni toll started to form a few kilometers after Palsit toll plaza Shyamoli came to the rescue again. The bus took the wrong flank right after Palsit and we blindly followed it till Dankuni , where a bit of muscle flexing and close shaves later we nosed our way into the toll collection booth.

Mayhem at Dankuni Dashcam grab
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-074-mayhem-dankuni.jpg

Nivedita Toll was also gridlocked due to the madness and for the first time we took the Bally bridge on our way back home. Which, led us to experience and savour the hillocks - err - bumpers enroute. Some sadistic maniac must have designed these , these were more axle breakers and bone twisters rather than the speed breakers they were meant to be! A week and 1933 Kms later, we were back home on a Monday morning

Sunrise on Bally bridge with a long distance pranam to Maa Kali at Dakshineshwar temple (Dashcam grab)
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-075-welcome-home.jpg





It is time to bid adieu to the mountains

The road sings its lullaby as we cruise home

It’s time to ponder and time to plan

For the next destination is out there

Waiting to be found and explored with élan.




Cheers! , till we meet again.
The enchanting allure of North Sikkim-076-cheers-till-we-meet-again.jpg

Last edited by DriveTrain : 25th November 2018 at 16:30.
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Old 26th November 2018, 07:37   #4
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 26th November 2018, 08:19   #5
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Fantastic! I was there myself not so long ago. How come you've got lesser number of people in your pics? How did you manage that?

Few things I learned from people/drivers and other locals there -

1) Use and throw water bottles are apparently prohibited in some areas and one can be fined if found carrying. We had buy some different bottles on the way and transfer water to them and discard the bisleri/aquafina/etc.

2) The locals mentioned about some medicinal product of the place - half grass + half insect - is how they described. Apparently very potent and sold in many markets with hefty price tag.

3) We had doubts about taking Sr. citizens and infants to Natu La (Indo-Chinese border). Turned out to be quite alright. No issues faced with 1-1/2 yr olds. I could climb up all the way to the top there carrying one of them.

However, noticed quite a few youngsters struggling with their poor lung capacity - bad state of physical health!

Many carry camphor in handkerchief/cloth to aid in breathing and prevent sickness. I don't know if it actually works, but I carried some too and ended up distributing to people there that seemed to be struggling a bit.

4) Restroom stops could be a bit tricky. Most places they have these ad-hoc restrooms that are small, unclean, but just about functional. Be prepared to be a little inconvenienced on that front.

5) Overall, the drivers and people are are rather polite and courteous. Was a delight to interact with them.
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Old 26th November 2018, 08:27   #6
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Hey man, loved your narration style. The use of adjectives were fantastic. Really brought a smile to my face.

When is the best time to visit these places in sikkim?
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Old 26th November 2018, 13:38   #7
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Superb travelogue Angshuman Da. Duster looks fantastic in that topography. We would have met at North Sikkim if we had not changed the plan to Bhutan. Really like the dashcam grabs since it gives a nice perspective of the roads traveled.

You should pen down more logs for the trips that you make.

Cheers,

Pawan
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Old 26th November 2018, 13:46   #8
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Beautiful travelogue, Beautiful pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveTrain View Post
Road surface being dismantled over Farakka barage (Dashcam grab)
I have traveled through here since I was a kid. Don't remember when was the last time I saw this stretch NOT broken.
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Old 26th November 2018, 16:01   #9
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

What an amazing way to celebrate Durga Pujo! I still feel Sikkim is one place which is yet to be explored!!
Also,that armored beast (the army Tank) why was it there, surprised to see it on the road and not loaded on the movement vehicle (truck) .
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Old 26th November 2018, 21:53   #10
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miyata View Post
Fantastic! I was there myself not so long ago. How come you've got lesser number of people in your pics? How did you manage that?

4) Restroom stops could be a bit tricky. Most places they have these ad-hoc restrooms that are small, unclean, but just about functional.

5) Overall, the drivers and people are are rather polite and courteous. Was a delight to interact with them.
Thanks Miyata. I waited for the opportune moment , or walked around to a position that gave a better vantage and in some cases cropped the photographs.

As a general rule - state of Restrooms in India are pathetic , except for large establishments. This is a real hazard on road trips , particularly for ladies or the elderly.

How true , in those parts people in general are very friendly and down to earth - make no mistake , there are glaring exceptions as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Liner View Post
Hey man, loved your narration style. The use of adjectives were fantastic. Really brought a smile to my face.

When is the best time to visit these places in sikkim?
Thank you Red Liner. There are different moods to savour at different times. You should give the monsoon months a wide berth - from Mid May till late Sep , as there are risk of land slides. Do note that the hills experience rains even before monsoon formally sets in. Ideally the views are most clear during late Oct till Dec. Late Dec or Jan will mean snow and if you are lucky , both snow and clear skies. If you fancy Rhododendrons then April. Anytime should be good ,besides peak monsoon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaBravo View Post
Superb travelogue Angshuman Da. Duster looks fantastic in that topography. We would have met at North Sikkim if we had not changed the plan to Bhutan. Really like the dashcam grabs since it gives a nice perspective of the roads traveled.

You should pen down more logs for the trips that you make.
Thanks Pawan. How I wish there were two AWDs in the frame rather than one. On a lighter note , Dashcam recordings are gobbling up my external HDDs. But I can relive the experience any time!

Got around to pen this down after a long hiatus. I suppose , I have been plain lazy looking at the enormity of the task of inking down each trip!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaunthead View Post
Beautiful travelogue, Beautiful pics.

I have traveled through here since I was a kid. Don't remember when was the last time I saw this stretch NOT broken.
Thanks jaunthead. Your wish (of seeing a perfectly laid surface) is likely to come true by late next year, if this government project runs on time .

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBeast View Post
What an amazing way to celebrate Durga Pujo!


Also,that armored beast (the army Tank) why was it there, surprised to see it on the road and not loaded on the movement vehicle (truck) .
Thanks DBeast. I am not an expert on army vehicles , but that does not seem to be a full fledged Battle Tank. It is an amphibious Infantry Fighting Vehicle named BMP-2 (Boyevaya Mashina Pekhoty) . There is an army base some distance out of Lachung , towards Yumthang. They have a training track out there on a huge flat ground in the mountains. Several of these were being put to their paces in the track. There was a senior army officer stationed a few switch backs up , who was overseeing the performance looking straight down . They had huge maps laid out of the overall operation. I had inched closer for a look see in the car, hoping that the dashcam would record , but was shooed away with visibly angry glances.

Last edited by DriveTrain : 26th November 2018 at 21:58.
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Old 27th November 2018, 14:40   #11
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Fantastic travelogue @DriveTrain! Its very detailed and with such wonderful pictures you compliment the entire write up.
I am planning a short trip to Sikkim in the month of Feb 2019 (2nd to 9th Feb 2019)-
Pune to Bagdogra Via flight
Day 1 - Land in Bagdogra and travel to Darjeling same day.
Day 2 - Stay in Darjeeling and site seeing
Day 3 - move to Gangtok and stay, explore
day 4 - move to Lachung via road (Cab)
day 5 - stay at Lachung Yumthang valley if possible
Day 6 - stay at Lachung and nearby
Day 7 - start for Gangtok/Siliguri and stay in Siliguri
Day 8 - Bagdogra to Pune morning flight

now my question to you and all other people who have been to Sikkim during this time is ----- is this possible at all ?
How about the routes during the snow? Me and wifey are snow lovers however we have a tight schedule and cant get stuck and extend our journey.
it will be more of hired cab journey from Bagdogra so I would also like to understand if you know about reasonable hire cabs maybe

I am not considering road trip because of the tight schedule otherwise Monster would have loved the ice.
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Old 27th November 2018, 14:53   #12
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Lovely pics & awesome narration. Rated 5*. Waiting to take my Duster AWD to the same terrain!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveTrain View Post
Nivedita Toll was also gridlocked due to the madness and for the first time we took the Bally bridge on our way back home. Which, led us to experience and savour the hillocks - err - bumpers enroute. Some sadistic maniac must have designed these , these were more axle breakers and bone twisters rather than the speed breakers they were meant to be!
Sadly this road is my daily drive! Its still okay while driving but when on bike the underbelly scraps.
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Old 27th November 2018, 15:41   #13
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Beautifully compiled thread, epic pictures of the landscape and the AWD.
Some of the places are very close as Sikkim was my first trip with my AWD.
Always great to see a fellow Bhpian with Duster do justice to the car every time it's taken to Himalaya. Keep traveling and sharing such wonderful experiences.
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Old 28th November 2018, 05:58   #14
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Lovely narration and beautiful pictures Angshuman Da! Doses of nostalgia for me. Rated 5 stars. As others have mentioned, you should definitely write more on team bhp.
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Old 28th November 2018, 09:45   #15
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Re: The enchanting allure of North Sikkim

Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveTrain View Post

How are the roads you say , mostly like this , have a look :
Narrow and treacherous enough to remind of Sandakphu or something similar.

Thanks for sharing this and if you have more hidden in your archives, do share .
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