Intro rant
This travelogue is long overdue. Really long. Like worthy of inclusion in time dilation equations long. Equivalent to how it would seem to an observer in a non inertial frame of reference if someone in another inertial frame were to move. You get the drift. So enough Physics.
I can blame my work schedule for the delay. However, the more honest reason would be my own inertial state (dang…there it’s again). In my case some things get done in bits and pieces, and here it especially holds true. You see I started writing this nearly two years ago (that’s how long). But every time I tried penning down something, Daenerys would get closer to King’s Landing ever so slightly, or Eleven would slay another Demogorgan, or the black mirror would ruin another life. You again get the drift. So enough pop culture.
Long story short, I travelled to NZ in 2016 (hereafter referred to as NZ). The experience of sightseeing, driving, hiking, flying was memorable to say the least. Hence I thought it would be prudent to share it all with you. Those with eagle eyes may have noticed that this is my first ever post on this forum. So why not make it about the best trip I’ve ever undertaken (so far).
Why NZ?
My first criterion was that the destination has to be overseas. I travel enough in India to make me confident that I’ll visit every nook and corner of the country by the time I hang my boots. Hence it had to be phoren, where I’d never been before. It also had to be secluded & not crowded at all. Like any other middle class Indian, I first looked at the South east Asian states for a probable destination. However, the more I researched it, the more I realised it would be too “clichéd”. Judging by the number of Instagram, Facebook & Whatsapp posts I’d seen, it seemed everybody along with his wife was going to Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore etc. A number of acquaintances also narrated a few unpleasant experiences of overcrowding and cattle class behaviour by our dear countrymen. I decided that if I wanted to listen to kids wailing for a samosa, or tourists disembarking from an overcrowded bus & cursing each other in choicest Hindi, I could go to Goa, why to spend so much money and experience that in Indonesia. So that part of the world was ruled out. Don’t get me wrong, I would still love to go there, just not during the tourist season.
So I scrolled the Google map a bit more South-East. Australia? The Outback, wide open roads, beautiful vistas, Grand Ocean road, Twelve Apostles, Great Barrier Reef, the best amusement parks in the world, Australia did seem like the strongest candidate. I had a cousin living in Gold coast & working in hospitality industry. All our hotel bookings could’ve been managed. It all seemed perfect. So I made a mental note to finalise it, & out of curiosity just scrolled a bit more south. That’s when NZ came into picture.
The movie buffs amongst us would remember NZ from Lord of the Rings & Kaho na Pyaar he. I remember seeing both those movies (multiple times) & thinking how great it would be if I could visit that country. More curiosity led me to research a bit more about the country & the places to see. Suddenly I was hooked on to it, & Australia started to fade away. Consulted (to be) better half. Proposal was vetted! No other certificate of acquiescence needed! NZ it was!
Planning & Preparation
The first thing to do was, of course, get my passport updated & our visas done. NZ visa application requires you to have the complete itinerary confirmed & booked. All my bookings - flights, hotel, restaurants, rental car, adventure activity etc were done online. A friend of mine working in a chain of five star hotels there got me a booking in Auckland & Queenstown. The visa application, while being comprehensive is pretty straightforward. We did approach a couple of travel agencies for getting our visas done, however, they quoted some random documents required to be attached, which were not at all mentioned on the check list of the visa application. Hence we went ahead & got the visas done ourselves. Moral of the story - don’t be intimidated by the visa application procedure, just fill it out using your common sense, attach all the required documents & submit it to the Embassy. The only effort you have to make is physically going to the Visa office, standing in queue, verifying & submitting the documents (which for NZ barely took an hour). We got the Visas stamped in about three weeks. A sigh of relief. Morale shot up since the most important part was done successfully.
We made the following itinerary :-
Day 1 & 2 - Fly to Auckland via Singapore
Day 3 - Fly to Queenstown & sight see
Day 4 - Tour to Milford Sound
Day 5 - Rent a car, drive to Aoraki / Mt Cook National Park
Day 6 - 8 - Aoraki / Mt Cook National Park
Day 9 - Drive back to Queenstown
Day 10 - Fly to Auckland
Day 11 - Return to India
I made a day wise calculation of the costs including meals, shopping and any miscellaneous expense we might do, & added 20% extra as contingency. A dear friend referred me to his trusted forex dealer, from whom I bought the NZ dollar. I loaded 75% of it on a multi currency card & kept the rest as cash. I was advised to buy travel medical insurance, however somehow, it was neglected due to the ultra-busy preparations & other functions at home (it was my marriage). Luckily nothing untoward happened during my trip, however, anybody wishing to go overseas as a tourist is strongly advised to buy medical insurance due to the exorbitant cost of medical expense in case of a mishap (thanks in no small part due to our ever weakening Rupee).
Thus, all bags packed, mobiles & powerbanks charged, documents carried, goodbyes were said & we boarded Air Singapore SQ 421 from Mumbai. Excitement was at its peak.
Day 1 & 2 - Fly to Auckland via Singapore
This proved to be the toughest air journey I’ve ever undertaken so far in my life. While the flight till Singapore was pretty uneventful, the one further till Auckland was a nightmare. A girl of about five, extremely finicky, made things hell for the passengers. Of the 11 hours of flight time, she was in bawl-mode for eight. Imagine a child screaming bang across the aisle next to your seat for the better part of about half a day. Her mother was understandably tired, frustrated & upset trying to pacify her. Things were not made easier by the dude who was with her (partner but not the father of the child). He had earphones plugged deep into his ears (smart but apathetic) and was completely oblivious to the child’s wails. At one point, when the child finally slept, the mother got up, stood with her hands on her hips & admonished him. She even pulled his ear, Indian mother style. The whole Economy class watched stunned. I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. Tragicomedy at its best. Seems we Indians are not the only ones dramatic (She was from Singapore). We couldn’t have been more relieved upon landing in Auckland.
Immigration formalities completed, we hailed a cab & checked into the Copthorne. Being a bit jet lagged (the time difference between India & NZ is 7 hrs 30 min) & sleep deprived, we just threw our luggage haphazardly & crashed. That was one of the best afternoon sleep I’ve ever had. Evening saw us hit our first spot in the sight-see list - The Sky Tower.
NZ's tallest tower, at over 226 m. It has become an iconic part of the Auckland's skyline. Entertainment options include a casino & mall in the basement, two fine restaurants near the top along with a Sky deck for panoramic views of the city.
View from the the chic Orbit 360, a fine dining restaurant situated on the 52nd level. The unique thing about this place, besides its curated menu, is that it rotates 360 degrees every hour, thus assuring everyone of panoramic views of the Auckland skyline.
A bunch of stuff I couldn't pronounce yet it was all delicious.
Needless to say, it was an awesome experience (I’ll try not to repeat this adjective too much in subsequent paragraphs).
Day 3 - Fly to Queenstown
What? Another flight so quickly? Well, time was at a premium so we couldn’t spend more than half a day in Auckland. Anyway, we had one more stopover here during the return journey. So on day 3 of the trip, we caught a flight to Queenstown. Some glimpses of our day there :-
Enroute Queenstown aboard Air New Zealand, their Air India.
We were booked in Haka Lodge, a delightfully quaint establishment in one of the suburbs. It is basically a backpackers hostel with a couple of private rooms. Everybody, right from the bell boy, the reception, staff & other guests were extremely friendly, helpful & polite, a trait we found was common throughout the country. The people there are extremely tourist friendly.
Henry street, where our hotel was located.
Queenstown - any & every view is photogenic
One of the main junction in town, this is as busy as it gets. No traffic light or cops. Reason? Vehicles coming from the right have right of way & everybody adheres to this rule, so traffic is automatically streamlined.
We did the Nevis Swing from AJ Hackett Bungy Jumps, one of the world's foremost adventure sports company founded by its namesake, himself a pioneer of bungy jumping. Nevis swing is the world's longest swing which can be done solo or in tandem. Basically, you are attached to the end of a giant swing, the operator cuts off your tether & you swing in a giant 1000 ft arc into a gorge hundreds of feet deep.
AJ Hackett has an extremely sophisticated setup to include a main office complex in downtown Queenstown & a base in the countryside from where they carry out their jumps. Photo & video recording costs extra & is automatically being filmed during the time you are saying your prayers before the leap of faith. After the jump, you can immediately view & save the footage into your preferred medium. While booking this thing I wondered why the hell it was so expensive, after having seen all that, I knew why.
A youtube video of what this thing's like. One of the biggest adrenaline rushes you'll ever have. The inital few seconds when you are in free fall feel like the end of you.
The countryside from the AJ Hackett complex.
Having satiated the adrenaline junkie in us, it was time to appease the lord of gluttony. And what better place other than ...
Fergberger! The world famous outlet (which has been declared as the world's best burger by a travel magazine) was right across the street from where we disembarked from the bus after being back from the Nevis swing. This place is crowded throughout the day, no matter what the time is. We had to wait half an hour yet the double venison cheese burger made it every bit worthwhile.
Thus culminated a memorable first day in Queenstown.
Day 4 - Milford Sound tour
The second day was spent in a bus ride through gorgeous countryside & a cruise in Milford Sound. Apparently, in geography, “sound” means a body of water. NZ being a water locked country, it has several “sounds” jutting inwards. Milford sound is by far the most famous of them. We found out just why.
Good morning
The coach which took us to the cruise. The driver had probably did the trip a thousand times, his commentary was pitch perfect & perfectly synced to every turn, spot & curve.
Lake Wakatipu, astride which Queenstown is located, kept us company for a better part of the ride.
The multi coloured countryside. There were so many scenes like this, that I got sick of clicking them. Decided to concentrate less on the shutter, more on the better half.
A stop over enroute Milford.
Weather in NZ is very unpredictable, especially closer to the coast or any of the inland fjords. The sun & clouds spent the whole day peek-a-booing.
The base of the cruise start off point has a well appointed building, housing multiple cruise agencies. Cruise range from a private yacht housing a dozen to the bigger ones with 70+ capacity. Take your pick.
The docks where all the cruises are moored, also the starting point.
And we're off! Unfortunately, it was an overcast day with intermittent spells of rain (the only such day we'd encounter). As a result, clouds & fog obscured the iconic Mitre peak.
The whole region is dotted with waterfalls like this one, the biggest of which is ...
... Lady Elizabeth Bowen Falls, standing at an impressive 162 m tall, while simultaneously also hydro-powering the entire region.
Approaching closer to Mitre peak.
What Milford sound looks like on a clear day (what we missed). Image courtsey Google.