[lucifer1881]

Key takeaways from this trip:

1. Himachal drivers are fast - the way they handle those twisties is a sight to behold. Their small 800cc Altos glide over everything.
   
2. J&K drivers are slow. Super duper slow. They never cross 40 kmph, even on a dual carriageway, which is downright dangerous.
   
3. The Jawahar Tunnel is possibly the most heavily guarded tunnel in the world. A battalion of ITBP is permanently stationed there. It was a 40 minute wait before we had our turn to cross the tunnel since traffic is allowed in one direction at a time.
   
4. Every car before Jawahar Tunnel was checked, and then re-checked. We were waived through, possibly because of AP registration.
   
5. Sedans are hardy beasts. There is a reason why sedans still sell. When it comes to comfort and speed, no other body-type holds water. When driven with care, they can take on anything. Period.
   
6. It felt good to have the only outstation sedan in Spiti or Ladakh. We definitely caught everyone's attention. This group of Ladakhi Innova drivers in Hunder was extremely impressed with what the Elantra had managed to do. They asked me about the ground clearance. I told them there were a few underbody hits. They told me that their Innovas routinely get them too.
   
7. Remember that Innnova that got stuck just before Pagal Nullah? Just before they got stuck, the passenger and driver were discussing that I was either brave or foolish to bring an Elantra to this terrain. It was a great ego massage when I cleared that stretch without hiccup. Then again, the Elantra makes you look like a better driver than you are. Any other car and my fate may have been no different than the Innova's. That traction control is a beauty - doesn't matter how heavy a foot you have. No wheel spin.

Now that this trip is done and dusted, the excel sheet will be out soon to plan the next one. Where do I go next? I am not saying that there are no more places to visit. But after this epic journey, will any other place come close to providing the same levels of excitement? Perhaps a road trip across Africa. Or South America. Or may be what I have always wanted to do - across the Australian outback and return via the Three Ocean Road. Who knows? However, the fact remains, no other place any where on this planet comes close to matching the isolation, desolation, danger, thrill and fun of Spiti.

Am I an adrenaline junkie who keeps upping the bar to get his next fix? If you are a junkie, being the adrenaline one is the best kind. At the same time, I am getting old. I realised that on this trip. Need to keep daily driving to around 500-600 km instead of the 750-800. 12-14 hour drives are now difficult. 10-11 is the sweet spot. Can't slum it anymore. Need proper hotels to stay in. Is a road trip still a road trip if you apply all these restrictions?

Hell, yeah!

[Rudra Sen]

Mod note: Thread moved to Travelogues. Thanks for sharing this fascinating trip.

[agambhandari]

One word...AMAZING.

To make such a road trip on a car that is 15 year old , hats off to you. I just read the whole Tlog start to end and the level of detail and the quality of pictures is just impeccable. Makes me want to run out and drive to ladakh right now. This is an inspiration for all of us as to what awaits if you take good care of your ride and where all it can take you if you are willing.

[gajadonga]

Very nice travelogue. Doing in Elantra is one more icing in the cake. Nothing more satisfying than the sincere vehicle doing the utmost arduous terrain.
In fact when you have the attitude even if the vehicle breaks down to junk ready for the worst it all sums to our roadies attitude Live to drive.
Nice pictures and a nice summation of events.
I enjoyed reading.
Thanks for sharing.

[vnabhi]

Epic TL, @lucifer1881. Enjoyed the pictures, videos and the write-up to the hilt! Looks like you both really had a swell time! Hats off to you both for this adventurous trip!

Hope your car got back in one piece, after all the torture she's gone through!

As regards the Migs, I fully agree with you about the sound they emit--I witnessed a drill at Bagdogra airport long back, while waiting for my Calcutta flight.

[Lone Ranger]

This is one hell of an achievement man! Hats off to you and your wife. It is a tribute to both your driving skills as well as your car. I remember reading another Bhpian's thread a while ago who did somewhat similar terrain in an alto. Sometimes it's not about the engine under the hood but the man behind the wheel

Originally Posted by lucifer1881

I did not realise how much my guardian angel looked after me until I got back. The 16 days I spent on the road were perfectly sandwiched between the floods in Shimla in August and the super floods in almost all of Himachal in September.

Fortune does seem to favour the brave!

[Fordmanchau]

I am Murari'ed rightaway Mr. Murari!! The opening post was so good, felt I am attending the live narration in a 3D theatre. Great travelogue. !

Your Old lady has done what few young lasses can't do. Hats off to her !
Great write up spiced nicely with good clicks thrown in between.
Thanks for sharing!

[Rudra Sen]

Originally Posted by lucifer1881

To me, the trip was already a success. More than what you see, a trip is defined by the people you meet. The scenery and sightseeing helps, no doubt. But when you meet people like Shubhra or the Tuk-Tuk convoy, it makes you truly appreciate the many choices that life has to offer. There is never a dearth of something to do - find what works for you and keeps you happy, and then keep doing it.

Very profound statement and I wholeheartedly agree with you.
My road travel experience is much less than yours but I can totally relate to what you mean here.

Like to know what kind of additional preparation did you take before the trip for your 15 years old companion.
May be someday soon I'll also do the same with my 15 years old partner.

[Samba]

Commendable!
The route where new SUV's sometimes struggle to get through, you completed it with your 15 years old sedan. Kudos to your courage and the faith you have on your old car.

Excellent write up with some great pictures. You made my Sunday.
Rated 5*.

My 7 years old sedan on the same terrain-

[wanderernomad]

Excellent pics and narration. Yes, I was surprised to see an Elantra doing the Batal-Gramphu stretch, though during my recent trip in the opposite direction I did meet a couple of Etios and new Balenos doing the same stretch. My takeaway for those planning to do this stretch in sedans, is to come down Kunzom and not try from the Gramphu side. This will ensure that you and your trusted steed enjoy the drive even more.
Loved that picture of the Hunder Sanddunes, Diskit is the place if I remember correctly and that river Shyok is too damn cold, I tell you. Brings back a lot of memories but from the time when there were no roads and yet that flat stretch was always a blacktop even way back in the 2000. Keep it up, wish you many more road trips with your partner.

[BlackPearl]

Wow, it takes guts to travel to Spiti in a 15 year old sedan! Rated 5 stars.

Originally Posted by lucifer1881

To me, the trip was already a success. More than what you see, a trip is defined by the people you meet.

Well said. When one visits Spiti one realises what people from the plains have done to Ladakh. The people of Ladakh were equally innocent and welcoming like the Spitians, but now the place has become so commercialised. I hope Spiti does not have the same fate and hope a 3 Idiots sequel is not shot there.

A pic of me and my trusted steed in Spiti taken last year -

[SJM1214]

An amazing Travelogue with excellent photographs. Thanks for Sharing. Rated Five stars.

A 15-year-old car with a long wheelbase and low GC covering Ladakh and Spiti. That's an amazing feat. We are planning a trip to Spiti in Jan2019 by an MS Swift Dzire. My other travel mates are sceptical about a trip to Spiti by a Dzire. I forwarded your T" log to them. It seems your travelogue will be an inspirational force for them.

Thank you once again for this Paragraph.

The internet is a funny place. You hardly ever find two people agreeing on anything. But when it comes to road conditions in Spiti and Ladakh, everyone instantly agrees that they are bad. Forum upon forum, pages upon pages told me that these roads are not meant for a sedan, leave alone one as long as the Elantra. The front and rear overhangs will beach the car.

Then I was struck by an epiphany - "Road conditions are a state of mind", to paraphrase a certain politician. Should you throw caution to the wind, and gun for it? No. There is a fine line between bravery and stupidity. But if the "road" is good enough for an Innova, then it is good enough for sedans.

Does it depend on the skill of the driver? Sure. Everything does. However, I have never ever done off-road driving (and, no, going off the tarmac a little does not count as off-roading). I consider myself to be an average driver. With a bit of mental fortitude and oodles of common sense, I believe anyone can drive across the roads I did. Even if they look like this:

[lucifer1881]

Originally Posted by agambhandari

One word...AMAZING.

To make such a road trip on a car that is 15 year old , hats off to you...

Originally Posted by gajadonga

...Doing in Elantra is one more icing in the cake. Nothing more satisfying than the sincere vehicle doing the utmost arduous terrain...

Originally Posted by vnabhi

...Hope your car got back in one piece, after all the torture she's gone through!...

I was in awe of my car, more than I already was, at the end of the trip. She has taken me to Bhutan, and while those roads were bad they don't hold a candle to the Batal-Gramphu stretch or Killing Sarai. Those are car killers.

Originally Posted by Lone Ranger

...Fortune does seem to favour the brave!

May be. But there is always a fine line between bravery and stupidity. I have a feeling that I used up all my good fortune on this one trip.

Originally Posted by Fordmanchau

I am Murari'ed rightaway Mr. Murari!! The opening post was so good, felt I am attending the live narration in a 3D theatre. Great travelogue. !...

So next year the Ecosport goes to Spiti?

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

...Like to know what kind of additional preparation did you take before the trip for your 15 years old companion.
May be someday soon I'll also do the same with my 15 years old partner.

Nothing out of the ordinary. Just the throttle body controller replacement, as mentioned in the opening post, and a general service. The suspension, brake discs / pads, clutch, timing belt were all replaced last year as part of preventive maintenance. The tyres were also changed in August last year. It is a different story that the tyres now look almost bald - that terrain devours rubber.

Originally Posted by Samba

...My 7 years old sedan on the same terrain- ...

Very nice! It is quite a feeling, isn't it, to be the only sedan among a sea of SUVs?

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

...Yes, I was surprised to see an Elantra doing the Batal-Gramphu stretch...

Did you actually spot my very car? Wow, it is a small world indeed!

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

...My takeaway for those planning to do this stretch in sedans, is to come down Kunzom and not try from the Gramphu side. This will ensure that you and your trusted steed enjoy the drive even more...

I have a different take here. It may be easier to come down from Gramphu into Chhatru since most of it is downhill. I did not do Ladakh to Dalhousie via Sach Pass as originally planned because that would have meant doing Killing Sarai uphill - a task infinitely more difficult when gravity is against you. Gravity, a cruel mistress she is!

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

...Brings back a lot of memories but from the time when there were no roads and yet that flat stretch was always a blacktop even way back in the 2000...

That's a revelation. A black top in 2000 when Ladakh was some place that no one really cared about.

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

...A pic of me and my trusted steed in Spiti taken last year - ...

This picture perfectly captures the road. For the uninitiated, that is the actual road between Batal and Chhatru - a river bed.

Originally Posted by SJM1214

...We are planning a trip to Spiti in Jan2019 by an MS Swift Dzire...

Not sure roads would be open beyond Reckong Peo in January.

[coolmind]

Hi,
Iam also from Hyderabad but could dare to drive even to half the distance you have done towards the north to cover the beautiful scenic. No words for your courage and regards to your wife and the Elantra for the extreme support provided to you.

[abhikb]

Great job Lucifer and team. These terrains make life challenging even for people driving a suv. However really appreciate your courage to take on the mountains in a sedan. Congratulations and all the best for the future.