[Madmax_SP]

Flashback to 2016. Return Journey from Yuksom, Sikkim.

Even as I was heading back from Yuksom in Jul 2016 (it was a Pre-Birthday Gift for myself), my mind was on an overdrive planning the next trip fuelled by that incurable Wanderlust Bug.

Only this time, it had to be a Birthday Gift to Me from Myself.

The desire to travel and intense pleasure of going solo had grown to levels that made me decide I would embark on one atleast once every year, and so why not make it work in such a way that it would be a gift I would give to myself.

Seemed a darn good idea too!

I was already smitten by the Himalayas. There was no doubt about it. I knew we needed an encounter up closer. Though the idea did strike me as preposterous, there ought to be method even in madness too!

An up close encounter with the Mighty Himalayas meant a trek - and a High Altitude one at that. That also meant loads of preparation, considering I had no trekking experience, leave alone a mountain hike!

Another wild idea struck me, one of motivation. This would also be an amazing way of working on my fitness! So why not?

So it was decided, My Birthday Gift to Myself would be a Solo Trip in 2017 in the form of a High Altitude Trek.


Feb 2017 : The Trek Plan


Having pondered a long while about the importance of fitness and the discipline to remain committed to a regimen, the best way to ensure I stuck to it was to sign up for an activity that would compel me undertake a strict fitness schedule.

A High Altitude Trek with a high difficulty level would hence ensure that my fitness preparations would serve a two pronged purpose. Based on some feedback and online resources, I chose to go with IndiaHikes. Then ensued the search for an appropriate 7-day trek that would match with my schedule, ensure that fitness preparations required were tough enough to make a difference to my own levels, and also keep me away from the crazy networking we are all exposed to in the cities.

As the New Year began, I had to wait till end-Jan for finalising a suitable schedule upon announcement from IndiaHikes. The initial choice was Roopkund. But the dates were jinxed. I tried to check other treks, and finally zeroed in on the Buran Ghati Trek.

What added a twist to the tale was the 400 metre (1200 ft) rappeling section down the ice-wall from the Buran Pass at 15,000 ft! The subsequent 6 snow-slides down the mountain face were going to be exhilarating too! That was the high point of this trek and I was caught hook, line and sinker!

So went ahead and booked my slot for June-end batch after due deliberation with the IndiaHikes trek coordinator. I was amazed at the honest and candid nature of discussion. I began to realise as I started reading more resources, that trekkers are those with a love for nature and mountains, that draws & keeps them close to the ground. Hence the simple & calm demeanour.

I was impressed.

Preparations for the Trek & The Crazy Fitness Plan

Once locked and loaded, with first of the requisites fulfilled, compliance to the crazy fitness targets as prescribed for a High-Alti Trek by IndiaHikes commenced. No wonder there were times I was cursing my decision to opt for a trek with such a high difficulty level. But the fact it was helping me, despite being the bitter pill, and then the grand finale that would manifest upon completing the trek - a sense of achievement and satisfaction of doing what you have set out to execute in all earnest - goaded me on towards the targets.

I will not elucidate further, and one can have a look at the prep at the following link: https://indiahikes.com/buran-ghati/#preparation

Finally, and thankfully, I did manage to achieve the target. Considering I needed to provide them proof of same in the form of a screenshot of an app that recorded my activity, they were pretty professional in their work! Glad they were. One can imagine the complications and logistics issues in case someone were to fall sick at that altitude and needed an evac! So no chances were to be accepted.

June 2017
Day 1 : Arrival for Acclimatization at Shimla

As the day of departure to Shimla drew closer, my excitement grew exponentially! Once I arrived Shimla for acclimatization, managed to realise the moment had finally come.

Furthermore, the description need not be in words, as the picture would do the talking themselves!

Clear blue skies with clouds to play hide and seek with the sun


Selfie Time before the Trek


The empty road with greenery all around in stark contrast with the congestion in Delhi


On the Road to Somewhere


A Preparatory Brisk Hike


The Amazing Hues of Sunset


Colonial Remains?


The Orange




Christ Church, on Ridge Road in Shimla with its Neo Gothic inspired design by Col J T Boileu stands among the clouds.


My Country - My Pride - My Honor
The National Flag files high against the backdrop of a bright orange sun



Day 2 : Shimla to Diude/Janglik Base Camp (Alt 2804 m / 9200 ft, 9-10 hours drive from Shimla)

The rendezvous was the Old Shimla Bus Stand that would take all the trekkers in the batch to Diude in shared cabs.

The customary pre-departure click against the backdrop of the valley


Chatting away with the local ladies during the breakfast halt


It was an amazing experience talking and sharing ideas and local culture. The advantages of going solo I would say. Except that getting yourself into the frame either meant you get tripod, or hand over your camera to a passerby requesting for a click (which also means you cannot be sure of the image quality and aesthetics as per your choice). Of course one would be sensible enough not to start teaching them how to click, since as such they are doing you a favor, and you cannot just bombard them with your instructions.

Bridge over River Pabbar at Rohru


Walking into the Riverbed among the Rocks with my feet in the cold water was bliss








A Photoshoot Halt (included a rooftop ride)


The sheer rock face


A point where the bridge was washed away during floods. Had to disembark and hike till the Base Camp






All during the journey to base camp, my heart was thumping with excitement at the prospect of embarking on a High Alti Trek as planned. With every turn the heart rate grew louder along with the altitude, and so was the apprehension about my abilities whether I would complete the trek successfully.

But that was something I would know in due course. Upon arrival at the base camp, all trek members completed documentation & mandatory medical check before retiring for the day. But my mind was awake, with visions of the unknown!

[Madmax_SP]

Day 3 - Janglik (Alt 2804 m / 9200 ft) to Dayara (Alt 3376 m / 11075 ft, 5 hours)

The day started with the overnight drizzle continuing all through the morning, and that meant the raincoats were out! So were the backpack covers, but the DSLRs and Cameras were going to be at risk.

The Trekking Group

Our Trek Leader introduced us to rest of the members as well as the Trek Guides.

Start-Up Views




I was not going to miss the chance


The Cute Little Temple
Love the styling of Roofs


At one Water Halt


Group Pic


Hide n Seek with Clouds






Had to get on the rooftop to socialize with the ladies


...and try my hand at sorting their veggie produce


The Eureka Moment?
Shout out loud from the roof tops, call out to the mystic mountains... I am here!




Looks like a Rock Field. I was to get to a Snow Field later


The Jagged Edges looked as if one would drop off


The track was slippery post the overnight rains. Being my first trek, I was quite jittery.. One false step, and the slide would be a looooong one!


Sighting the 1st Campsite at Dayara


A closer view




...further up close


The Dayara meadow nestled at 11075 ft ASL is a sight to behold. Surely, words would not do justice. In fact, none of the pictures need a description at all!

[Madmax_SP]

Day 4 - Dayara (Alt 3376 m / 11075 ft) to Litham (Alt 3577 m / 11737 ft, 3 hours)

Given the overcast conditions and overnight drizzle, the tracks we all slippery and slushy. This was a day when we could spot patches of snow along the reaches.

Let me allow the pictures to do the talking.















One mistake and you would find yourself somewhere down there!


The Group Pointer!




Face the shutter now






The DDLJ pose on Pride Rock!




A view of Chandarnehan Lake and the waterfall. We were scheduled to head there the next day as part of the acclimatization mid way before the Pass Day!






There was a stream crossing enroute to the camp




A view from the tent. The best days of my life.

[Madmax_SP]

Day 5 - Excursion to Chandernahan Lake (Alt 4237 m / 13900 ft, 4-5 hours)

Chandranahan lake (Moon Lake) is considered the origin of Pabbar River is located on the south-eastern slopes of the main Himalayas which lies to the north west of Rohru in Shimla district of Himachal Pradesh. It is a highly revered lake for the inhabitants of the valley.

The stream crossing






Savouring the intense beauty of the mountains


Flora collected enroute are to be duly decorated on the brim!




The rain bearing clouds make a dramatic entry. Time to brace for the impending rainfall.


The origin of River Pabbar




Chandernahan Lake.
You are not allowed to step into the holy lake. Our trek guide does the puja rituals.






The health monitor card. Note the Oxymeter reading variations, also indicating the acclimatization.

[Madmax_SP]

Day 6 - Litham (Alt 3577 m / 11737 ft) to Dhunda (Alt 4074 m / 13,365 ft), 8 hours

The last couple of days had been pouring but the views were exhilarating despite overcast conditions. Tips to manage the clothing and keeping dry feet intact was a key. The importance of waterproofing and failsafe clothing was very much evident. The skills of navigation, if one were to go alpine, were only too evident. Survival under adverse conditions is surely an achievement which most people underrate.

The views from Litham Thatch Campsite




Another river crossing. All the offloaded backpacks and miscellaneous equipment were up on the mules. It did take us a while to figure out an appropriate place to cross the river.










Somewhere along the trail


A stream gurgling right across the Dhunda Campsite






And this is my tent!



Day 7 - Dhunda (Alt 4074 m / 13,365 ft) to River campsite (11,800 ft) via Buran Ghati (15,000 ft), 9-10 hours

Today was the Pass Crossing day! The highest altitude I would be attaining during the trek at 15000 ft ASL. Buran Pass would be snow clad. The weather though was overcast and drizzly. With the likelihood of inclement weather, all fingers were crossed. The Pass Crossing team which was stationed there for this purpose took no chances even while briefing. The key was to respect the mountains and the elements.

Before the pass.


Setting up anchors for rappelling down the snow wall.


The view from the pass. The highest point.
There was no way anyone was risking their DSLR in that weather. Even the phones seemed to give up. Note the haziness of pictures due to condensation within the lens.


The most eventful part of trek still would remain the least recorded, considering the excitement and safety precautions that are meant to be taken. No protruding equipment, need for free hands, etc.
The rappel down the 500 mtr snow wall was one hell of an experience to which I would never dare to put words for. One has to experience it to feel it.

Following this were the snow slides which brought out the child in me.

The Dingle Dongle!




Heading down to lower altitudes.














Wish I could walk into the clouds and take a ride.




As we began to make the arduous descent (yes, arduous since the descent is tougher than the ascent! and a few had some pretty bad falls), the cold was numbing considering everyone was drenched both due to rain, as well as snow. We were in for a pleasant surprise with a campfire ready upon arrival.

[Madmax_SP]

Day 8 - River campsite (3597 m / 11,800 ft) to Barua (2042 m / 6,700 ft), 5 hours

The trek back from River Campsite to Barua Village can be best described as a Time Lapse video! The descent was arduous, with no room for error.

Just the best reason why it should as pictorial as possible.

The view ahead


The view I was leaving behind


The customary pic with the last campsite in tents for the trek






The group picture


Jimmy! Our four legged escort all through the trek. He followed us as a guide, vanguard as well as a marshal. Many times doing his own recce whenever possible. Despite the incessant downpour, stuck to the trail at all times.























Some mountain architecture


Crossing a waterfall on a pair of logs


Jimmy again!


The flora of the area




The track back to Barua


Make way please. But no Honk please.


That sinewy line across the valley would take us back.


A closer view where the vehicles were waiting


Back in Shimla - Happy Birthday to Me

The souvenir Tee: Done Buran Ghati Trek - 15000 ft. The Birthday Gift I had promised to myself had finally come true. It had been more than a year since I had set out to achieve it - a High Altitude Trek and that too being my 1st Trek!



Time to celebrate with some gastronomics


A random sighting as I was waiting for the bus back to Delhi. And I was feeling morose already for having to go back.


The bus that ferried me back to chaos! Haha. Luckily the hangover of the trek was to last a looooong loooonnng time!



The takeaways were many:
1. The fitness regime for Trek Preparation was rigorous & specific. It did help me achieve my fitness objectives to a major extent!
2. The regularity required for the fitness schedule incorporated a similar discipline into my daily routine. Now, I am a regular (barring a few contingency exceptions).
3. Preparations of equipping & packing for a trek made me realise how less we can actually survive upon! The requirements are meagre & precise. The ability to get along from within a 65 litre backpack for over a week (and yet you realise you have not used some of the items you have packed) is a revelation.
4. At the onset, the very thought of being able to complete the trek with such difficulty levels, considering that it was my 1st trek, seemed pretty ambitious and impractical. But at the end, I realised that anything that you set out to achieve is truly possible when you prepare with discipline and persistence.
5. The mighty mountains and elements made me realise how puny we actually are! There was no way in future I would even dream of underestimating the elements.
6. Patience, perseverance and endurance are the key.
7. Many people might blame you for being selfish. But travel has taught me otherwise. You have to love yourself, and pursue what makes you happy, because it is worth it. You deserve every ounce of happiness you seek. The joy of being independent, and being one with nature is eternal bliss.
8. TRAVEL - is now my LIFE.

As I wrapped up my trek to Buran Ghati, even though I had just returned from the trek, my mind was making plans for another.

WHERE TO NEXT!!!

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[MaNishi]

Kudos to you!! I can only dream of doing such a trek!!

[mohansrides]

Really lovely pictures. Looks like a superb trek. Also, it is a wonderful idea for you to gift yourself such treks. Really, one could do a lot worse. People gift themselves God awful things that are no good for them. So, a trek that offers fresh air, gorgeous scenery and a chance to get fit is pretty tops. Enjoy!! I hope that you get an opportunity to trek other famous trails in the future.

I say that because there is zero chance that I will ever trek anywhere. You could put me in the middle of a fantastic trekking opportunity with all planning and preparations done, where all I had to do was just walk. Even then, I'd probably wish everyone a safe and enjoyable trek while I make for the closest sitting point, which would hopefully be a restaurant or coffee shop. While, I do enjoy the outdoors, I absolutely detest sleeping in tents, or having to deal with makeshift toilets. I am definitely not venturing anywhere where there are no good hotels with running water, working toilets, air conditioning, and hopefully an attached restaurant that provides breakfast (at the very least).

Best Wishes

[SJM1214]

I used to trek regularly during my early days. The best parts of those days were to talk with locals and understand their lifestyle. Great to see you are trying to mix with locals.

Thanks for sharing an amazing travelogue with excellent photographs.

[amit1agrawal]

Really lovely pictures and nicely written blog. Being a fan of nature, one day I wish I will also do a similar track like this. Reading your blog makes me feel to go somewhere in the lap of nature and there is no better time than the monsoon season in India IMO.

[NPV]

You definitely had a great time on your first such trek and what a way to celebrate the birthday!

Thanks for sharing a very well written travelogue with your experience and also accompanied by nice pictures (and breathtaking locales)

[rosh_aveo1.4]

Woah! That was probably the best gift birthday gift ever. Thank you for the lovely pics and detailed write up. Always wished that I do such a trek but wasn't sure if I can be up to the task (and not to mention that I need to get myself in shape for this in the first place). Hats off to you for the determination to go behind it!

[Madmax_SP]

Originally Posted by MaNishi

Kudos to you!! I can only dream of doing such a trek!!

@MaNishi, Thanks a ton. Dreams can be made True with persistence I am sure.

Originally Posted by mohansrides

Really lovely pictures. Looks like a superb trek. Also, it is a wonderful idea for you to gift yourself such treks. Really, one could do a lot worse. People gift themselves God awful things that are no good for them. .... hotels with running water, working toilets, air conditioning, and hopefully an attached restaurant that provides breakfast (at the very least).

Best Wishes

@mohansrides, thanks a lot for the good wishes. Surely, the idea was to initiate a healthy lifestyle and I was no different than any! Just that one day had to draw a line to how long I would continue to rot without fitness in my life!

Originally Posted by SJM1214

I used to trek regularly during my early days. The best parts of those days were to talk with locals and understand their lifestyle. Great to see you are trying to mix with locals.

Thanks for sharing an amazing travelogue with excellent photographs.

@SJM1214, thank you. Yes, totally agree the exclusive local flavor expands your practical horizons to amazing levels. Add to it the SOLO factor, and it is manifold.

Originally Posted by amit1agrawal

Really lovely pictures and nicely written blog. Being a fan of nature, one day I wish I will also do a similar track like this. Reading your blog makes me feel to go somewhere in the lap of nature and there is no better time than the monsoon season in India IMO.

@amit1agrawal, thank you. If this blog experience can motivate even a few to take up a healthy lifestyle while being with nature, yet caring for it, I would feel this would be a success for me. Hoping for the best!

Originally Posted by NPV

You definitely had a great time on your first such trek and what a way to celebrate the birthday!

Thanks for sharing a very well written travelogue with your experience and also accompanied by nice pictures (and breathtaking locales)

@NPV, thanks. Yes, I did have an amazing time. No doubt about it. And add to it the factor of Independence, which is why I had kept this to be posted on Independence Day 2018 despite the trek being more than a year old, and took me such a long while to compile.

Originally Posted by rosh_aveo1.4

Woah! That was probably the best gift birthday gift ever. Thank you for the lovely pics and detailed write up. Always wished that I do such a trek but wasn't sure if I can be up to the task (and not to mention that I need to get myself in shape for this in the first place). Hats off to you for the determination to go behind it!

@rosh_aveo1.4, thanks a lot. I guess everyone has the ability to step up and achieve the unfathomable. Discovered that the human body is more capable than anyone can even imagine. It is just the mental makeup and grit that is a requisite.

An yes, it is an amazing feeling being part of this community with genuine travelers and honest feedback, unlike other kinds of fora.

A big Thumbs-Up.

Warm regards
Madmax_SP

[sumeet007]

Amazing trek, beautifully documented with meticulous write up and great pics of the nature in full glory. Reminded me of the trek we did 2 years back to the Valley of flowers! The best ever experience of our life times, with friends of medical school from 25 years, it was fabulous getting into shape with months of physical fitness training, and getting prepared to face altitude sickness etc. Burhan Ghati is certainly a trek to be planned for in future!, for the sheer varied landscape, majesty of mountains, the beautiful lake and water falls etc. Am only scared of the 500 Ft. rapelling down the snow clad water fall. Is there no alternative to that?