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Old 7th July 2018, 13:06   #1
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Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Sometime in late 2015 while on a work trip, my host had asked me in a gathering, “what do you do beyond your work life?”

I had no answer to the conundrum at that point of time.

Aghast, I only managed to croak a few words that WORK was my life.


A lack of answer to the query only hit me harder when I realized I was going to rot in hell without even attempting to fulfil my dreams & passions always simmering within.

Till that time, my travel was solely work related. Either I was spending time at events (busy with supervising details) or preparing for them in the meanwhile, but never had I spent it in the true sense of travel. I realized it was getting to me, and the restlessness was evident. The desire to wander was getting too strong to get over.

As time passed, the desire to do things beyond work, as a means of self-actualization, only grew stronger. Except there seemed to be no way of breaking free of the regular fare of life, that threatened to destroy all of it.

Seemed to be a stalemate!

Target in Sight
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End of June 2016, I boarded an aircraft from IGI Airport to Bagdogra, WB on what was going to be a trip of a lifetime, in defining my wanderlust bitten future. Little was I aware of the blissful metamorphosis that would reorganize my mental makeup for life. The realization that it is truly possible to achieve and live the dream.

Limboo's Homestay, Yuksom
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Travellers' Map
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My destination was Yuksom, a small village which was once the capital of Sikkim. From what I learnt off internet reviews and travel fora, Yuksom is base camp for treks like Tashiding/Dzongri peak/Goecha La and entry point to Kanchenjunga National Park. A google map recce revealed that it is end of the road at Yuksom. Suddenly, I was reminded of someone mentioning – the journey begins where the road ends. So Yuksom it was.

A search for accommodation ensued, and finally zeroed in on Limboo’s Homestay. The ambience and exposure to local customs which I am so keen to relate and gel with made me choose a homestay. Planning of dates, ticketing and coordination for my trip followed immediately after. Other preparations included some online reading about the local customs & culture, nearby places and contemplating how to make the best out of my stay, in addition to simply lurking away in solitude. Anh Oh the memories! Had to get something reliable to record my memories, so I managed to borrow a DSLR and an old fitness watch lying around with my sibling. Packing my luggage was always going to be easy, considering most of my professional life has been filled with frequent travel.

As the aircraft landed at the IAF owned Bagdogra Airport (Code: IXB) about 9 km west of Siliguri, I bundled myself into the cab waiting for me at the arrivals.

The 7 hours of 160 km drive from Bagdogra to Yuksom was my first experience of freedom. I was on my first intentional freedom travel, intending to spend nearly a week all by myself away from all the clattering around me.

Swing at Limboo's
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Sights to Soak In
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Flora
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Vantage Point Views
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The route via Siliguri, Sevoke (not to miss mentioning the Coronation Bridge), Kalijhora, Melli, Jorethang (where I could have some super sumptuous dumplings aka momos – by now most are aware of my weakness for momos!), Legship and Tashiding was a liberating experience with amazing sights everywhere.

The joy is all too evident

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I began to wonder if this was just the beginning, what would the road-end point of Sikkim be holding in store for me! And I was surely not going to be disappointed.

Darkness had set in and I was greeted with a gentle drizzle as I entered Yuksom. The homestay itself was at the end of the road, opposite a Health Centre. The rooms were pine-decored, with slanted roofs and windows facing the woods behind. There were vintage archery tools lying in the corner, which I tried to familiarize with.

As I retired to my room with some vegetarian dinner served by the Limboos, I began visualizing the day as it unfolded, realising that this was the first ever instance in my life when the desire to travel on my own could finally materialize. Here are the pics of my vision in sequence for the perspective of the reader.

Skies Enroute
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On the Road to Yuksom
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Teesta River
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At Jorethang - where I could have some super delicious Momos
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Views Enroute
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Waterfall as if on the Road itself
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Trying the Limboos' Archery Equipment
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Continued...

Last edited by Madmax_SP : 13th July 2018 at 22:28.
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Old 7th July 2018, 17:23   #2
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Tripping in Sikkim : Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

The next day, I got out on the streets of Yuksom wanting to explore the vicinity. First on list was The Coronation Throne of Norbugang.

About Yuksom and significance of Coronotion Throne of Norbugang
(*from various sources)


Yuksom, the first capital of Sikkim Kingdom is translated as ‘meeting place of the three learned monks’. The three lamas came all the way from Distt Kham, Tibet to propagate Buddhism to the original inhabitants especially the Lepchas.

The influence of Tibet is very evident in Sikkim. The conversion of locals to Buddhism dated back as far as the 9th century. Relation between Tibet and Sikkim was further strengthened by the ‘Brotherhood Treaty’ signed in the 13th century, so by the time the three lamas came to Yuksom in 1641, Tibet and Buddhist culture had already seeped into lives of Lepchas living there.The main reason the three lamas met at Yuksom was to further strengthen their hold on Sikkim and to spread Buddhism. They went looking for someone who could be crowned as the religious head of Sikkim. They consulted visions of revered saints Padmasambhava and Guru Rinpoche and finally arrived at present day Gangtok where they found a man churning milk. He offered them food and they knew then that he was the chosen one. He was Phunstsog Namgyal and they brought him back to Yuksom, where his coronation took place in 1642 at Norbugang Chorten. He was the first religious head and the king and was given the title Chogyal. The Chogyal reign continued for 333 years and was responsible for spreading Buddhism to all parts of Sikkim.

The Feature in the Village
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Interacting with kids heading to school
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Today a wall like structure known as Norbugang chorten remains to mark the original site. The Buddhist rever this location one of their most important pilgrimage sites. This structure was erected after the coronation ceremony. People who came to the coronation offered huge amount of treasures at the ceremony. They collected earth and stones from all parts of Sikkim to build the Chorten and many of those treasures received were buried beneath it.

An old and grand mystic pine tree with its trunk mostly covered with mosses and dark with age looms above the throne.

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Another place of interest related to the throne is the Kathok from where water for coronation was taken. The lake exists even today. The lake and the mystic tree are few time capsules that take you back into time.The coronation throne is now looked after by Archaeological Survey of India.

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A little fun never did any harm. That was a time when I was not a legally qualified driver. But that did not deter me from trying out these set of iron drim wheels. The desire to drive has always been intense, which I now realise as a life skill and a tool for independence!

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Is that a walking tree?
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Kangchendzonga Biosphere Reserve
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I had plans of entering the reserve, but the incharge informed me there were some elephants that had been misbehaving and it would not be a wise idea to get in at that point of time. So had to drop the plan. Nevertheless, the views from outside the Reserve were equally amazing. So I decided to soak it in to my heart's content while watching some local kids play their favorite game of football.
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At the same time, as I wandered towards the Yuksom Helipad close by, a waterfall in the surrounding mountains was a feast to the eyes.
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Socializing with the children
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...and the local animal life.
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Hike to Dubdi Monastery

Dubdi Monastery, also known as Yuksom Monastery is 3 km odd hike from Yuksom. At the final stretch, the cobblestoned inclines are narrow, slippery, curvy & steep with prayer wheels along the route. The occasional leech will also want to have a try at you. It would be prudent to carry some salt along with you whenever you are outdoors and while hiking.

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Established in 1701 during the time of Chakdor Namgyal the monastery is the professed to be the oldest in Sikkim and is part of Buddhist religious pilgrimage circuit involving the Norbugang Chorten, Pemayangtse Monastery, the Rabdentse ruins, the Sanga Choeling Monastery, the Khecheopalri Lake and the Tashiding Monastery.

At an altitude of 7000 ft ASL, Dubdi Monastery is also known as the Hermit's Cell and in local language means 'The Retreat'.

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Walkable Road to Yuksom Bazar

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The 3km stretch is covered in 900m.
The walkable road to Yuksom Bazar took my breath away. The declines were steeper by an additional 50% and the slippery stones made me brace for a slide every now and then. Except the slide would have been right till the Bazar!

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Last edited by Madmax_SP : 13th July 2018 at 07:18.
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Old 7th July 2018, 18:01   #3
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Tripping in Sikkim : Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Limboo's Homestay Vistas
The window of the room opens straight into the woods, and rains had begun by that time. The rhythm of rain drops on the leaves and roof make up for a symphony all night.

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A hike in the vicinity and socializing with the children
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The Sumptuous Breakfast served by Mrs Limboo
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Khecheopalri Lake (Khechepalri - mountain of blissful heaven)

Legend has it that this place was once a grazing ground full of stinging nettle. Native Lepchas use the bark of the nettle for a number of purposes. One day a Lepcha couple were peeling the bark of the nettle when they saw a pair of conch shells coming through the air and entering into the ground. Soon after the earth beneath shook violently and spring of water came out. The entire ground was soon engulfed and turned out to be a huge lake. As per Nesol text, the lake was recognised as the abode of Tshomen Gyalmo, the chief protecting nymph of dharma as blessed by goddess Tara. Native people believe that the shape of the lake resembles the footprint of goddess Tara.

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The local name for the lake is Sho Dzo Sho, which means "Oh Lady, Sit Here". The Khecheopalri Lake is also part of Buddhist religious pilgrimage circuit involving the Yuksom, the Dubdi Monastery in Yuksom, Pemayangtse Monastery, the Rabdentse ruins, the Sanga Choeling Monastery, and the Tashiding Monastery.An interesting feature of the lake is that leaves are not allowed to float on the lake, which is ensured by the birds which industriously pick them up as soon as they drop into the lake surface.

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As the sacred Khecheopalri Lake is known as a "wish fulfilling lake", folklore and legends associated with it are many. The folk lore has generated deep religious interest and as a result lake's waters are permitted to be used only for performing rites and rituals.

I did have my wishes too!
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Driving in the cloudy climes
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Kanchenjunga Waterfalls

A 45-min hike from Yuksom took me to the Kanchenjunga waterfalls (the desire to take a steeper inclined route to enable staying away from the tarred road also caused a slip and bump as a nearly ended up at the bottom of the slippery stairs!).

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Continued...

Last edited by Madmax_SP : 13th July 2018 at 07:21.
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Old 8th July 2018, 08:41   #4
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Tripping in Sikkim : Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Kanchenjunga Waterfalls

Tried the zip-lining at the waterfall, an amazing experience with part of the falls literally landing on the road. An apt car wash!
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Visit to Rabdentse - The Ancient Capital of Sikkim and the drive back to Bagdogra Airport

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By the time I reached the Bagdogra Airport to board my aircraft back to Delhi, one thing I realised for sure, that I was smitten by the ethereal beauty of Sikkim.

There was another thing for certain, I was bitten big time by the Wanderlust Bug, and there was no cure. I was not willing to be cured.

The first experience was so amazingly refreshing, learning and fulfilling, that travel was going to drive my life in future. All IN.


WHERE TO NEXT?

Last edited by Madmax_SP : 13th July 2018 at 22:50.
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Old 16th July 2018, 09:49   #5
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 16th July 2018, 11:07   #6
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Wonderful Travelogue about Sikkim.

Quote:
There was another thing for certain, I was bitten big time by the Wanderlust Bug, and there was no cure. I was not willing to be cured.

The first experience was so amazingly refreshing, learning and fulfilling, that travel was going to drive my life in future. All IN.
Good for the forum that your Wanderlust bug is not cured as you will visit more such places and keep on writing.

Really commendable that you have done a solo trip to such far flung place. Kudos.
Do share details like cost, type of accommodation and mode of transport as it would help us to plan.
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Old 16th July 2018, 12:31   #7
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prowler View Post
Wonderful Travelogue about Sikkim.


Good for the forum that your Wanderlust bug is not cured as you will visit more such places and keep on writing.

Really commendable that you have done a solo trip to such far flung place. Kudos.
Do share details like cost, type of accommodation and mode of transport as it would help us to plan.
@Prowler, thank you for the encouraging words about not being cured of the wanderlust bug! Yes, it is terminal now!
I kept the economics simple. When I wanted to book, I just booked the flight to Bagdogra. From Bagdogra, I hired a cab through the connections of Mr Limboo from Limboo's Homestay (Website: http://www.limboohomestay.com/) which I had googled and found the reviews encouraging. The type of accomodation was a Homestay, and the lady was an amazing cook. Hospitality was equally good, and needless to say, people in Sikkim are wonderful and friendly.
I did most of my local move by foottracks, or in cases by local arrangement of a vehicle through homestay owner.

The key to my trip was to keep it simple and uncomplicated. I didnt want the bargaining and budgeting to come in my way of wanderlust (considering it was my 1st).

Warm regards.
Madmax_SP
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Old 16th July 2018, 16:06   #8
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

What a wonderful journey! And kudos for traveling solo to these challenging places and more of them for keeping the passion alive of traveling, hopefully in future too.
Sikkim is a traveler's paradise. Never fails to amaze me.

By the way, when did your travel took place; probably you told but I missed? Asking because the Coronation bridge looks in the old paint scheme (pre-2017; now its white).

Regards,
Saket.
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Old 16th July 2018, 16:38   #9
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Quote:
Originally Posted by saket77 View Post
What a wonderful journey! And kudos for traveling solo to these challenging places and more of them for keeping the passion alive of traveling, hopefully in future too.
Sikkim is a traveler's paradise. Never fails to amaze me.

By the way, when did your travel took place; probably you told but I missed? Asking because the Coronation bridge looks in the old paint scheme (pre-2017; now its white).

Regards,
Saket.
@saket77
Thank you for the encouraging words. Yes, the intent is to keep travelling a la Fa-Hien!
True, Sikkim is everyone's paradise in fact, and one can make multiple trips there.
I travelled there in 2016.
Have a lot of catching up to do ever since I decided to document my travels on Team-BHP in the form of travelogues. Back from a Mizoram trip which is already posted on the forum. 2 more are due (a High-Alti Trek and a Uttarakhand trip). Hope they are liked.
Warm regards.
Madmax_SP

Last edited by Madmax_SP : 16th July 2018 at 16:39.
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Old 16th July 2018, 16:46   #10
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax_SP View Post
Sometime in late 2015 while on a work trip, my host had asked me in a gathering, “what do you do beyond your work life?”

I had no answer to the conundrum at that point of time.

Aghast, I only managed to croak a few words that WORK was my life.
I hadnt really thought about it way until I read this. I think its the same for me too and its good to see that you have actually started having a life outside of work.

I have seen many other threads on Sikkim from other BHPians and have always felt that Sikkim (and probably majority of the North East) is pretty much an explored area. Doing it solo is a major achievement in itself. I think, solo is the way to go because most often, travel plans get cancelled as other travel partners drop and the overall enthusiasm dies off. So keep going new places and keep sharing the experience with us !
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Old 16th July 2018, 16:58   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by centaur View Post
I hadnt really thought about it way until I read this. I think its the same for me too and its good to see that you have actually started having a life outside of work.

I have seen many other threads on Sikkim from other BHPians and have always felt that Sikkim (and probably majority of the North East) is pretty much an explored area. Doing it solo is a major achievement in itself. I think, solo is the way to go because most often, travel plans get cancelled as other travel partners drop and the overall enthusiasm dies off. So keep going new places and keep sharing the experience with us !
@centaur
Thank you.
Surely, even though solo, one is never alone!
A wonderful opportunity to learn and break away from all the trivial inhibitions of life.
Yes, the idea is to travel...always!
And will keep sharing them on this wonderful forum.
Thanks and warm regards.
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Old 16th July 2018, 22:49   #12
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

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Originally Posted by Madmax_SP View Post
@saket77
2 more are due (a High-Alti Trek and a Uttarakhand trip). Hope they are liked.
Warm regards.
Madmax_SP

We are waiting Madam. Your solo travels are amazingly well composed of useful information (in short crisp sentences) and at the same time detailing important facts. Keep up this style of writing. I should really appreciate the time and efforts you put in compiling the whole thing. Really useful and kindles the traveller within all of us.


Some questions:

-How long do you plan for your trips?
-How much do you plan?
-Do you plan to drive yourself in future or plan to use the public transport/flights/taxis?
-Any specific reasons for starting with the N-E?




Thanks for your answers and we are waiting for the next adventures.
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Old 17th July 2018, 00:49   #13
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Amazing travelogue

I had been to Yuksom in Oct 2016 for Goechala trek. But I couldn't explore it much at that time. Before the start of the trek, I was under immense pressure as it was a difficult trek. While coming back only thing in our mind was enjoying the success with Chang (local millet beverage). But I would definitely love to go back to Yuksom & Pelling with family.
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Old 17th July 2018, 07:26   #14
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaKilo View Post
We are waiting Madam. Your solo travels are amazingly well composed of useful information (in short crisp sentences) and at the same time detailing important facts. Keep up this style of writing. I should really appreciate the time and efforts you put in compiling the whole thing. Really useful and kindles the traveller within all of us.
Some questions:
-How long do you plan for your trips?
-How much do you plan?
-Do you plan to drive yourself in future or plan to use the public transport/flights/taxis?
-Any specific reasons for starting with the N-E?
Thanks for your answers and we are waiting for the next adventures.
@AlphaKilo
Thank you. Been a wonderful experience being part of this wonderful community of travellers.
To reply to your questions:
1. I just realise the need to travel to a location and make up my mind. Guess that doesnt take much of a time when the fancy seizes you!
2. Planning is as much as it takes about reaching the destination in whchever way it takes. Rules should not be attached, isn't that so? Because if it were, then the whole purpose of spontaneity would be lost!
3. As of now, driving solo would not be an option for me considering my not too perfect driving skills. May be in good time.
4. Never thought why it should be the NE first, but the hills have always been close to my heart. And people there are amazing. I have visited almost all the other states for work, but never heard anything about NE except from some friends and acquaintances about the beauty of NE. All reviews I heard were of amazing views and sights, and I needed to check that out first!

Quote:
Originally Posted by VaibhaoT View Post
Amazing travelogue
I had been to Yuksom in Oct 2016 for Goechala trek. But I couldn't explore it much at that time. Before the start of the trek, I was under immense pressure as it was a difficult trek. While coming back only thing in our mind was enjoying the success with Chang (local millet beverage). But I would definitely love to go back to Yuksom & Pelling with family.
@VaibhaoT
Thank you.
Since you already know, Yuksom and Pelling are amazing places. Hope you have a great time exploring.

Warm regards.
Madmax_SP

Last edited by Madmax_SP : 17th July 2018 at 07:52.
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Old 17th July 2018, 08:04   #15
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Re: Tripping in Sikkim : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveler

Great travelogue and on the back of that opening line I wonder too--- what do I do beyond work life ( + maybe family life ).

That water falls right in the middle of the road is epic.

Specifically, your trip, reminded me of a family trip we did in the Dec of 2014 to Sikkim, Assam, Meghalaya. On the Sikkim leg we mostly stayed in North Sikkim ( each region by itself needs a separate vacation or maybe atleast 15-20 days to cover - we clearly didnt have that much time only for Sikkim ). We did get to see the snow capped K2 peak and some great sights up north ( Lachung/Lachen + the frozen Gurdongmar lake ).

The trip ended on a adventurous note with flight cancellations and a few extra days of stay in Assam + a long winded path back to Chennai from Bagdogra via Calcutta and Delhi !
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