The Destination Nagarhole National Park, part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, is nested beside the Brahamagiri Mountains, a 90 minute drive, south of Mysore. Nestled in the southern fringes of the National Park, breathtaking locale on the banks of river Kabini create an ideal setting for a great and refreshing vacation.
History has it that an erstwhile Maharaja of Mysore, who had a penchant for nature and hunting, built a sprawling lodge complex by the banks of river Kabini (a tributary of the majestic Kaveri), where his guests from the world over were offered to stay. Kabini rose to popularity and became home to the famous
kheddah - corralling of elephants for domestication in the Royal stables as well as for agriculture - a practice that was followed periodically by kings until the early 70s.
The royal property,
Jungle Lodges, is now under the management of the forest department. Proclaimed to be one of the best wildlife resorts in Asia, Jungle Lodges Kabini has seen phenomenal rise in popularity (and prices!!), as a outcome of which the riverbank is now dotted by a handful of eloquently curated private lodges.
Nagarhole National Park ,and the Kabini region in particular, continue to attract tourists, wildlife enthusiasts, naturalists, and is home to a variety of flora and fauna, including the striped cat and the black panther.
Sunset in the backdrop of the think jungles
The morning sun
Kabini had been on our to-do list of weekend drives for a really long time. Since it is hard to find accommodation during the holiday season, prior advanced planning is a must. We chose to stay at
Water Woods, a boutique lodge closest to river Kabini and bordering the government property, since they had an arrangement for safaris organised by the Jungle Lodges.
The main attraction in Nagarhole is this 3-hour jungle safari that operates twice daily – 6.00 am in the morning and 3.00 pm in the afternoon. We chose the morning run and it turned out to be a great decision. They also have a boat safari for the quiet-seeking, which also operates twice a day.
Please note that anyone visiting Nagarhole national park can opt to take a safari at the gates of the forest, without essentially having to stay at one of the lodges, albeit only for an hour's duration.
The boat safari ... a one of it's kind experience at Nagarhole
Acres and acres of fertile land
The Drive
Kabini is approx. 230 km from Bangalore and the shortest route is via Mysore and HD Kote. Nowadays, I prefer the slightly longer Nagamangala-Pandavapura or Kunigal-Maddur routes, since the drive through towns and city limits on the regular route has become an annoyance with multiple stoppages and traffic. However, for want of a familiar breakfast stop, we decided to take the usual route via Channapatna-Maddur, which necessitates an early start.
Our drive from Yeswantpur began at 7.00 am and we arrived at Right-O food court near Srirangapatna, which is at a distance of about 120 km, by 8.45 am. Idlis and Paddus at the Up South outlet are a favourite here. After the quick breakfast stopover, we continued our journey towards Nagarhole and upon reaching Mysore, drove through the city towards Manadavady road - it takes a Mysorean to understand why one would chose to drive through half a dozen signals and the chatter of busy traffic against the easier option of taking the Ring road. After a second pit stop at an election check post, we finally reached our destination, Water Woods, by 12.00 noon. The drive of 240 km took 5 hours with a breakfast halt between election checks.
The refreshing part of the drive starts with and gets better as you cross Mysore and hit the rural domain. Although the road to Nagarhole through HD Kote is a single carriageway, roads are in excellent condition and we encountered little to sparse traffic. The drive itself is enjoyed best sedate, as the leg is full of curves and bends, while odd village traffic always deserves the right of way. Lush greenery and quaint villages dot the entire stretch and bring in a calming effect as you arrive at your destination. Do remember that there are no cafes or restaurants beyond Mysore up until Kabini.
Water Woods Lodge Water Woods is closest to the river bank among all properties in the vicinity. The small number of rooms are well appointed with large french windows leading to the river side. There is a surprisingly well maintained activity room with a good collection of popular reads. Food at the Water Woods is a vegetarian's delight, with most of the produce from an organic farm adjoining the lodge catering to the kitchen's needs. The highlight of our stay was the thatched restaurant, not just for the delicious food, but for views of the river accompanied by enchanting sounds of the winds.
Three memorable days later, we started back for Bangalore, with a quick stop at the ISKCON temple in Mysore for a sumptuous lunch
prasadam.
In essence, Kabini has something for everyone's preference – you can head there for a peaceful holiday lazing by the river with your favourite book or embark on land safaris each day to try your luck spotting the striped cat, or still better, take the boat safari to awaken the ornithologist in you. Whatever you do, remember that patience is a great virtue and so is appreciating the creator as you soak in the astounding beauty of nature. When you do both, you carry home enough memories to last a really long time.