[hummer]

We had been to my hometown Shivamogga for a festival. Festival was on Wednesday, so after the festival, we had few days before returning to Bangalore. We wanted to visit some place from where we could directly return to Bangalore.

A must visit to "Panchathara Ice Creams" whenever we travel to Shivamogga


Dandeli, Banavasi and Yellapur in Karwar district always fascinated me, I used to read about the incomparable mix of scenic beauty this region offers – gorgeous Kali river, deciduous forests, wildlife habitat, deep valleys, breath taking waterfalls, ancient temples, and hilly terrain.

Adikavi Pampa, the first poet of Kannada, highly spoke of Banavasi in his writings, as indicated by his famous quotes in halegannada:
• Aaramkushamittodam nenevudenna manam banavasi deshamam (I shall cherish the sweet memories of Banavasi even when tortured)
• Maridumbiyagi mEN Kogileyagi puttuvudu nandanadol Banavasi deshadol (As a bee or as nightingale should one born here in this beautiful country of Banavasi).

So we all were excited to visit these amazing places.

Travelers details:
Passengers: Wify and two sons
Mode of travel: Nissan Terrano
Driver: I

We planned for 2 nights and 3 days trip:
Day-1: Night stay at Dandeli enroute scenic Banavasi, Sirsi, Yellapura and Ulavi
Day-2: Return to Yellapura and stay
Day-3: Return to Bangalore via Mundagodu (tibetian camp) and Davangere


Day - 1: Long day with many pit stops

Started from Shimoga at 6.00am. It was a dry morning when started from Shimoga town, but as we left the town, we could see misty zones near Lion Safari forest area and Ayanur.

Beautilful road en-route Sagar:




We reached Sagar for breakfast. We were not happy with Hotel Varadashree (on Bangalore-Honnavar main road) so we wanted to try a different one, we saw a new hotel Sadguru and had breakfast there. It was not great but better than Varadashree (may be because it was new).

Hotel Sadguru at Sagar:


We asked the direction to Banavasi and entered into the smaller road from the BH road. Not sure if it was the shortest, but the road condition was good even though single track. We just saw the arch of Sri Renukamba temple at Chandragutti on the way.

After about 1.5 hours we reached the ancient temple town of Banavasi. We visited the temple at leisure, a priest explained us the history and story of each idol in the temple. It was worth visiting.

About Banavasi:

The Banavasi town once was the capital of the Kadamba rulers, an ancient royal dynasty of Karnataka. They established themselves there in A.D. 345 and ruled for at least two centuries. Banavasi is located on the banks of river Varada. Banavasi is considered to be as old as Kashi Varanasi or Benares which is amongst the most sacred of Hindu towns. Buddhism and Jainism have also spread their roots here.

The major attraction of Banavasi is the Madhukeshwara Temple built in the 9th century by the Kadamba dynasty and dedicated to Lord Shiva the supreme God of Shaivism. Around the main temple are idols depicting Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu from all their main abodes including Varanasi, Tirupati, Rameshwaram, etc. There is a striking half idol of Ganesha and it is believed that the other half is in Varanasi. There is also an unusual idol of Lord Narasimha with a peaceful face. Amazingly carved 2 eyes of Nandi looking at different directions at Shiv & Parvathi, nritya mantapam with convex concave pillar and architectural marvel wooden bed made up 10 pieces are the best part of this temple.

Entrance of the Sri Madhukeshwara Temple


Sri Madhukeshwara Temple


Huge Nandi - it is said one eye looking at Shiva and another at Parvathy


Temple architecture


Temple Stambh


Temple Car


Brief History


Our next destination was Sirsi. It was about 30 kms away from Banavasi. It was very hot though location in the midst of thick deciduous forest.

Sri Renukamba Temple Arch at Chandragutti on the way to Sirsi


Coconut break on the way to Sirsi


About Sirsi Marikamba Temple:

The 16th century Marikamba temple is main attraction and it is one of the important seats of shakti worship in Karnataka. Sri Marikamba Temple houses a huge idol of Goddess, which is about seven feet tall.

As per the legend, the image of the deity was found in a pond on the outskirts of the town and with the consent of Sadashiva Rao II, the then king of Sonda, it was installed in 1611.

Sirsi Marikamba temple is temple famous for its Kavi art. The Sirsi Marikamba temple is decorated with Kavi art on both sides of its walls.

The 319-year-old temple fair is held once in two years. Markikamba fair is one of the biggest 'Car festivals' in Karnataka. People from all over Karnataka visit Sirsi to see this festival.

We saw the board “Sahasralinga” towards left after about 20 kms of drive. We didn’t know about this place, we just saw the board on road side and took a deviation.

Sri Marikamba Temple, Sirsi



Sahasralinga:

Sahasralinga is in the middle of the Shalmala river. There are numerous shivlingas and Basavas carved in stones. Sahasralinga means thousand lingas in Sanskrit. Pilgrims throng the place to offer their prayers during Shivrathri.

There is a small hanging bridge here to cross the river.

Sahasralinga at river Shalmala


Small hanging bridge on the river Shalmala


Yellapura was about an hour drive from Sahasralinga. Yellapura is a small sleepy town with forest and hilly regions. Fantastic lunch was arranged in a guest house for us. We took rest in the guest house for a while and continued our journey further towards Dandeli.

We wanted to visit Ulavi Channabasaveshwara Temple before retiring at Dandeli guest house. Road condition was pretty bad at some stretches, thanks to Terrano for making it a cake walk.

We entered inside a Wildlife Sanctuary forest gate towards Ulavi (entry restricted after 6pm I guess), though it was through the deep forest, we couldn’t spot any wild animals.

Wildlife Sanctuary forest gate


We took 2 kms deviation on the left towards Syntheri rocks.

Syntheri rocks:

300ft tall monolith limestone rock formed by the gushing waters of the river Kaneri. There are about 200 steps that lead you down from where you can see the river flow. The rock contains some hollow spaces on it due to erosion. We saw several beehives and caves also around these rocks. I was amazed by the sheer height of the rock, truly a natural wonder.

Caution: Only Jeeps/SUVs can go till the parking during rainy reason.

Syntheri Rocks Entrance


Car parking


Getting down the trail


Breathtaking views of rocks, caves and river





Panoramic view


Hiking up the trail


Terrano is waiting


We continued our journey towards Ulavi.

Ulavi Channabasaveshwara Temple:

This Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the saint, Channabasavanna. Channabasavanna was the nephew of Sri Basaveshwara, the most revered saints of the Lingayat faith.

Channabasavanna, along with his mother Akka Nagamma and many followers, reached Ulavi after trekking up the rugged mountainous terrain to escape from King Bijjala's army to safeguarded the Vachanas, their sacred scriptures.

Soon Channabasavanna’s teachings gained popularity and attracted devotees from far and wide. Many years after Channabasavanna’s time, a samadhi and a temple dedicated to him were built in Ulavi and it became one of the important pilgrimage centers of Karnataka.

Sri Channabasavanna temple


Ulavi to Dandeli was about 50 kms through the forest. On the way around 6pm, we spotted a Gaur, also called Indian bison. It gave a clean pose and vanished into forest.

[jayantvs]

Thanks for the travelogue, indeed looks like a lovely place. I have plans to visit Dandeli but never really materialized.

Originally Posted by hummer

Day-1: Night stay at Dandeli enroute scenic Banavasi, Sirsi, Yellapura and Ulavi
Day-2: Return to Yellapura and stay
Day-3: Return to Bangalore via Mundagodu (tibetian camp) and Davangere

Could you share more information on the distances covered, time taken and the places you stayed?
You started from Shimoga, is it doable from Bangalore directly?

Road condition was pretty bad at some stretches, thanks to Terrano for making it a cake walk.
Caution: Only Jeeps/SUVs can go till the parking during rainy reason.

Is it so bad throughout the year, fine to drive a hatchback to these places?

[hummer]

As we approached Dandeli, we saw a bridge at low level almost touching the Kali river. Water was gushing fast and many people were sitting near the bridge, it was a pretty sight during the sunset. We stopped there for a while, watched the beauty of river and entered into the town searching for our guest house.

Entering Kali Tiger Reserve Forest, Dandeli


Kali water level almost touching the bridge


Finally we got into the sprawling very old guest house on the bank of Kali river and settled down. Had dinner and slept soon as we were very tired. We could hear the sound of Kali river from guest house. We had to get up early in the morning as we had to drive to a place called Kulagi where Wildlife Safari starts at 5.30am.

Day – 2:

We reached the point on time and hired a safari jeep. It was still dark, only 4 of us and driver, we were standing at the back of the open jeep, jeep entered into the forest. It was a thrilling experience, cool fresh breeze, we could hear birds and greenery all around. It was 2-3 hours of drive through the forest. Kids were disappointed as we couldn’t spot any wild animals. Saw plenty of peacocks. For me, the safari ride through the wilderness itself was a great experience. We returned to Dandeli guest house by 10am.

Safari Entrance


Pricelist


With Safari Jeep and Driver


A view point at the end of Safari ride


Beautiful wilderness




At parking, Terrano accompanied by fellow TBHP XUV


At Kulgi Nature Camp




Dandeli:

Dandeli offers a lot for adventure lovers. White water rafting, night camps, nature walks, boating, bird watching, tiger and crocodile spotting and angling, along with picnics, eco-tourism, and trips to caves and temples. There are a lots of resorts available in and around Dandeli.

We didn’t venture into rafting etc as kids were not allowed in rafting. After breakfast, we packed up from the guest house and visited a place called Molangi (also called as Moulangi) Water Park.

Molangi Eco Park is located amidst large bamboo trees, the place is ideal camping. You can see river Kali flowing between huge rock formations and steep cliffs and slopes. Apart from being a popular picnic spot, the place has some kids play area, boating and some water games. We went for boating and tried some games as well.

Entrance of Molangi Eco Park


Boating at Kali River


Pictures of few migrants






Roller at the water sports area


We returned to Yallapura guest house for lunch. Took rest for a while and started drive towards Satoddi Falls.

Yallapura guest house


Satoddi Falls:

It is one of many of Karnataka’s gorgeous waterfalls, at a distance of 25 km from the town of Yellapur.

Sathoddi falls is formed by the convergence of a number of mountain streams. It is worth visiting thanks to its beauty and picturesque location. The water falls like a shimmering, silver curtain against a rocky backdrop amidst the misty mountains. The sight of water falls will leave you awe-struck.

Kali river is never low


Breathtaking view of Sathoddi water falls




Beautiful hanging bridge on Kali River:

People of many villages in Joida taluk no longer have to cross the Kodsalli Dam backwaters of Kali River on a wooden raft to reach Yellapur. The state government has constructed this hanging bridge across the backwaters, responding to the two-decade old demand of the villagers. 100 kms distance reduced to 25 kms with construction of this beautiful hanging bridge.

The total cost of the construction was Rs 3 crore it seems. The bridge is 234 meters long and 1.50 meters wide and stands 22 meters above the ground level. Imported GI (galvanized iron) wires that are 48mm thick have been used and according to the company, the material will last for over 100 years. Only bikes can go over this bridge.

The place is so picturesque, many movie songs have been shot here.

I have to mention one point about the Terrano here. This bridge is about 2 kms down the Yellapura and Sathodi road. There was absolutely no visible road, we just followed the trail, holding our breath, SUV was drifting down towards the river. Finally this marvelous bridge opened to our eye sight, it was an astonishing view. All jumped out of joy. Terrano handled this 4 kms up and down so well, we didn’t feel there was no road. I don’t know how it will be during heavy rains, but thanks to great ride and handling manners of Terrano.

Finally reached a spot where ground was level


Information of bridge work


Bridge is standing strong


Mesmerized with the view and beauty




We didn’t visit Magod falls as it was closed.

We returned to Yellapura and retired for the night.

Day – 3:

Got up a bit late, had breakfast and all set to drive home to Bangalore. Said goodbye to guest house staff and left Yellapura.
After crossing Yellapura forest region, there was a sudden change in surroundings and weather condition. We entered near border of Haveri district hot and humid dry land.

We saw some Chinese type architectural buildings and hoardings. It was Tibetian camp at Mundagodu. Out of curiosity, we entered inside a temple and school. Campus was awesome, kids maintained silence and discipline. We just drove inside the Tibetian township, it was entering a different world, clean roads, trees, no crowded bazars. It was a cool experience watching such a thing in that dry hot place. After few kms we crossed Mundagodu town, it was like any other towns. I was wondering why can’t our govt schools and towns be maintained like that of Tibetian camp.

Cultural society and school


Temple entrance


Main temple building


This Tibetian camp is much different from the one near Coorg. The Coorg Tibetian camp is more commercial with lot of shops, temples, hotels and people. Weather is another differentiator.

We reached Puna-Bangalore highway #48 near Bankapur and headed towards Davangere.

Surprisingly, I found my friend and his family in his Vento little after Harihar. They were also heading to Bangalore after a function at Ranibennur. We all had a nice lunch at my brother-in-law’s house at Davangere.

We continued our journey towards Bangalore together, took a coffee break at Kamath near Sira. Maintenance at Kamath is below average, forget about food even just the coffee is bad, but we don’t have much choice in that stretch.

Took NICE road, had dinner at a nearby restaurant and reached home by 9pm.

We enjoyed this trip thoroughly, untiring driving pleasure with Terrano, enchanting and picturesque Yellapura/Dandeli region kept us engaged fully.

Karnataka - One State Many Worlds

Due credit to the great companion


Wear seat belts and drive safe

[hummer]

Originally Posted by jayantvs

Could you share more information on the distances covered, time taken and the places you stayed? You started from Shimoga, is it doable from Bangalore directly?

Is it so bad throughout the year, fine to drive a hatchback to these places?

Bangalore to Shivamogga is about 300kms and takes around 5.5 hours with short breaks. Shivamogga to Yellapur is about 200kms (4 hours) and Yellapur to Dandeli is about 75kms (1.5 hours).

You can drive from Bangalore to Dandeli directly, it is about 450kms approx. driving time 8 hours with breaks.

We stayed at guest houses at Dandeli and Yellapur, but there are many good resorts and hotels in Dandeli.

Hatchbacks and sedans will drive through all places, but it may be difficult to visit Sathoddi water falls and Kali river hanging bridge during rainy season. Roads were pathetic in summer itself. Sathoddi is about 25 kms from Yellapura, better to hire jeeps from Yellapura for this.

[autospeaker]

Very nice travelogue. It brought back the memories of my trip with my friends, 8 years ago- in Oct 2009, where there were huge floods in Hubli-Dharwad and Raichur Mantralaya region. We were not allowed to venture into Kali river in Dandeli for rafting since the water level was over the danger limits. However we managed to visit Syntheri rocks and Magod in that heavy rains itself. And boy!! that Magod falls! It was an amazing view.The height of the water falls, already overflowing due to floods, and that roaring, deafening sound! It was indeed and unforgettable moment which gave goosebumps to all 5 of us.

I think you missed that here. Another place of interest to visit in this vicinity in Jenkallu gudda. One of the best places to see sunsets.

[srishiva]

Excellent travelogue and one more addition for future drive. When was the travel done ?

[aithalsandy]

@hummer,

Thanks a lot for the story.


Is White River rafting active now? JLR tells me that they run only between Oct to Jun.

[bsdbsd]

Great travelogue. Well done. Brought awareness about these relatively unknown places. I can imagine what Adikavi Pampa would have witnessed during those days! Very rich places indeed.

[hummer]

Originally Posted by autospeaker

I think you missed that here. Another place of interest to visit in this vicinity in Jenkallu gudda. One of the best places to see sunsets.

We are planning to visit again (without kids) for river rafting, may be we will cover the places missed.

Originally Posted by srishiva

When was the travel done ?

In March/April 2017

Originally Posted by aithalsandy

Is White River rafting active now? JLR tells me that they run only between Oct to Jun.

I am not sure as we didn't venture rafting. It may may be closed during rainy season due to increased water levels.

Originally Posted by bsdbsd

I can imagine what Adikavi Pampa would have witnessed during those days! Very rich places indeed.

We had this poem by Adikavi Pampa in our high school Kannada syllabus, so I was obsessed to see this place since then

[aithalsandy]

Hello All,

An update on rafting at Dandeli -

1. JLR runs rafting from Oct to Jun as the Dam releases water during that time.
2. You may get short rafting by private guys during monsoon but not recommend.