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7th March 2013, 15:47 | #1 |
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Blr/Stuttgart
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| Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure The plan was being made since past 3 years and it never materialized. Finally we decided that it was now or never. Finally the plan was decided. 17 days of pure thumping on our RE’s, 3000+ kilometers to ride, 5states and 2UT’s to cover, 7 passes to conquer, nevertheless countless memories to be made. When: June 2012 Pre-Trip preparations: I own (ancestral property u can say) a 1984 RE Bullet, and wanted to ride to Leh on it. My bike went for a complete overhaul and some painting, and I must say the bike looked stunning after the paint job. The paint job was admired by almost all the other riders who were riding to Leh there were many car travelers who wanted to sit on it and pose for a picture. So after 3 months of intense visits to the garage, finally my bike was ready for getting Leh’d. We shipped our bikes via Indian Railways until New Delhi station and from there our ride began. Route plan: leh_plan.xls The team: Anand, Kuldeep, Vinay, Prashant and Veeru. Day 0:Bangalore-Delhi : Our flight lands in Delhi at 11pm and the stewardess announces that the temperature outside would be 38 degrees and everyone was like we are going to get roasted in the sun here. Day1 :Delhi-Pipli(162kilometers): 1st day of our ride, me and my other 2 friends went to the station and picked up our bikes and the other went and got his rented bike, came back to the hotel and started tying our luggage to our bikes. People were curious to know what we are doing, some kids on the street asked us ‘bhaiya aap idhar race karoge?’ and some were like ‘aap itni dhoop mai jacket kyun pehane ho’. Vinay’s rented bike’s chain got cut just after a few meters of riding from the resnt shop. After he got that fixed and came back to the hotel his throttle cable got cut. After the initial setbacks, we finally hit the roads by 5pm deciding to get out of Delhi and ride until the sun sets. On the way many people were wishing us good luck and some others asking us where we were heading to and some even pulled us over and asked us the detailed plan of our trip. We pushed a little further after the sun set and managed to reach Pipli by 9pm. Found out a youth hostel to stay where they charged us INR 500 for 5 people. It was too hot and with just the fan blowing hot air it was difficult to get a good sleep. Before the start of ride outside Pipli Youth hostel. Day2: Pipli-Sundernagar(251kilometers): After eating stomach full of parathas at a dhaba right outside The youth hostel, we hit The roads again planning to drive until Manali. Temperatures of 40+ degrees was taking a heavy tool on our bodies, we took breaks to quench our thirst very frequently, due to which we were able to ride only until Sundernagar, and we were lucky enough to get an accommodation at NTPC guest house. My friend’s classmate works for NTPC. A night’s stay free of cost:D at NTPC guest house. At a pit stop due to unexpected rain Day3: Sundernagar-Manali(6400ft)(124kilometers): Since we hadn’t untied our baggage The previous night, we started pretty early in the morning and started riding towards Manali. After riding for a few kilometers we encountered some heavy rain fall, stopped for a while for a tea break until the rain subsided. Reached Manali by early afternoon. We needed to get our bikes checked so headed for the garage and got all our bikes a routine check and my friends Prashant and Veeru got their bikes fitted with a Ladakh carrier. Went out to shop some jerry cans as we needed to carry reserve fuel for our journey from Tandi to Leh. It was around 8pm when we checked into a hotel. We were told by the hotel staff that there is hot water spring close by to the hotel, some 10 minutes walk. Though none of us were keen to go there, but because of one of my friend wanted to see how a hot water spring would be, we went there and that was one of the best thing we did on that day. The water was too hot and the temperatures out side were pretty cold. There was kind of a small pool built where we could take bath, and initially we felt the water was too hot for us to get in, slowly dipping our body one part after the other we got entirely into the pool and ‘my god’ it was such a soothing dip, the entire day’s stress and tiredness was washed away in the pool. Got back to the hotel and quickly finished our dinner and we hit the bed. Day4: Manli – Keylong(120kilometers): This day would be one of the toughest days of our trip. The most rugged pass the Rothang pass had to be conquered. The biggest challenge we had to clear is to avoid the dirty traffic jams, and it had rained the previous night the entire road was filled with at least a foot deep of slush. To avoid the traffic jam we had decided the previous night to start as early as possible. Woke up at 3 30am and quickly got ready and we hit the roads, got our bike’s tanks topped up and as we were nearing Rothang pass we could still see some huge line up of taxis. Since we were on bikes the locals said we could beat the traffic jam pretty soon. As we started climbing the pass the slush became more and more and our bikes had to just one option of following the tire marks of the cars so that we could predict the dept of the slush. The drivers of the opposite traffic who had stopped and got out of their cars because of the traffic jams were encouraging us to get of the slush. ‘chala, chala’ ‘khench kheench’ were the words used to encourage us. While I was climbing the pass I sensed that something fell on my legs and I thought s**t no, not the battery, to my luck it was just the battery box and not the entire battery, got down and tore a thin strip from the waste cloth I had and tied the battery box and started riding again. I was slowly following a car until he braked and so did I, and there went my legs in the slush, my entire boots and pants got some taste of the slush. I managed to get out of the slush and the traffic jam with minimal damage to me and my bike. So here comes the funniest part, my friend Vinay’s bike’s engine shut down in the slush, irritated with this he got down from his bike and saw that he had forgot to turn on the fuel cock, after he had turned it off the last time :D. Quickly he turned on the fuel cock and started his bike and came out of the slush. Meanwhile Prashant had a double blow, his throttle cable had got struck and his decompressor cable was cut and he was stranded in the slush. Went to his bike and replaced just the throttle cable as we weren’t carrying a spare decompressor cable. But when I was sitting at the garage and getting my bike fixed before the trip, I had seen my mechanic starting the bike without using the decompressor lever, so I used the same trick and I could start the bike and get it out of the slush, joined everyone else and there were hi-fives, hugs every where. Rothang pass successfully conquered. There were clear instructions given to Prashant that he would not stall his engine until we find a garage and get the decompressor cable replaced. Riding ahead I could hear some rattling from the front side of my bike, got down seeing that the supporting plates to hold the front mudguard had broken and the mud guard was touching the wheel. Took off the entire mudguard and started riding with slush splashing all the way on to my helmet. Reached Tandi around late afternoon and got the fuel topped up and the jerry cans filled. This is the last fuel station until Leh which is 365 further ahead. We got our bikes fixed at Tandi and spent the night at Keylong which is 10 kilometers from Tandi. Slush at Rothang pass Traffic jam at Rothang pass After crossing Rothang People enjoying snow. Waiting patiently for army truck to pull out a struck truck after Rothang At Tandi Day5: Keylong-Pang (180kilometers): Initially the plan was to drive only until Sarchu which is 110kilometers from Keylong, so we started a little relaxed from Tandi. Route was keylong(10100ft)-Darcha(11020ft)-ZingZingbar(14010ft)-Baralacha la (16500ft)-Sarchu (14100ft)-Pang (15100ft). The ride until Zingzingbar bar was pretty smooth and the then began the steep accent towards Baralacha la and bad roads started, crossed baralacha la and reached Sarchu by 4pm. It was very windy and we had started discussing whether to spend the night at Sarchu or stretch until Pang. Had some tea and biscuits and meanwhile decided that we will hit Pang by the time sun sets. The milestone read Pang 88kilometers, and the locals there said that it would take us approx around 3.5 to 4 hours to reach Pang. We had to ride through ghata loops which has 22 hairpin bends and cross Lachulung la (alt 16616ft). We rode non-stop for almost 2 hours from Sarchu until we crossed Lachulung la. Everyone was happy as we had done almost 50+ kilometers in 2 hours. Then came some really horrible roads managed to cover only some 20+ kilometers in the next hour. Reached Pang at around 8pm and checked into a tent for the night. Tasted some home made ‘thuppa’ for dinner. In the middle of the night I woke up by loud noise of uneasy breathing by Kuldeep. He said he is not able to breathe properly, I was scared that he was hit by AMS (acute mountain sickness) but later realized that the uneasiness was only due to a blocked nose. Finally went to sleep around 1am. At Zingzing Bar After crossing Baralacha La At Sarchu Just before Pang Rest of the tripping will follow soon :). |
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7th March 2013, 21:18 | #2 |
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Guwahati
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| Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure. This will be one hell of a TL to read. You guys are really giving us the taste of adrenaline rush in the first post itself. The Day 4 (Manali-Keylong) trip is surely breathtaking. Smart handling and managing of issues like falling battery box, open fuel cock, throttle cable got struck, damaged decompressor cable etc. clearly shows that these issues can not dampen the spirit of your team. Do share the trip route and other tit-bits of the journey. |
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8th March 2013, 09:31 | #3 |
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Blr/Stuttgart
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| Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure. Day6: Pang-Leh (174kilometers): Woke up had a cup of tea and we started riding towards Leh, planning to reach there by late afternoon. Started riding along the moore palins which is one of the most scenic roads, a straight tarmac road in between barrens lands. After riding for a few kilometers Kuldeep’s bike had a flat tire, with all the josh we took out the tire and replaced the old tube with a new tube and put back the tire. We started riding again only to stop after 10 odd kilometers. Kuldeep’s bike again had a flat tire, with the experience we had in fixing a flat tire just an hour ago we managed to take out the tire, replace with a new tube and fix the tire back in under 30 mins. When we started to fill the air in the tire, the air was not at all holding inside the tube. Tried filling in air with another pump but that didn’t help the cause. Thought that there might be some problem in the tube and took out the tire and replaced it the last new tube we had. The result was the same. Guess we were not able to put the tube back in the right way and may be we had damaged the tubes in the process of putting it inside the tire. After spending almost 2 hours in the sun, we had the first casualty of the day and decided that Kuldeep would take his bike in a truck until Leh. In the process of repairing the tire, because of the sun and very thin air we were exhausted and finished almost half of the food and drink supplies we had brought along. Stopped a truck and with help of a few other passerbies we lifted the bike and put in the truck and wished Kuldeep ‘see you at Leh’. When I got back onto my bike I noticed that my bike’s handle was slightly bent, I turned it a little bit and made it straight and started riding. We had to take many deviations from the road as there were small bridges being built. This detour was filled with loose mud and we had great difficulty in pulling our bikes through it. As I continued riding I could notice that my bike’s handle was again getting bent, this time the angle getting worse and worse. When the bend was more than 45 degrees, I had great trouble in riding it, got down and noticed that the fork oil was leaking. Tried to make the handle straight but it would bend again, this confirmed to me that I had a broken front left shock absorber. I was totally disgusted so was the rest of the group. With barely any water left in the bottles, we were thirsty, hungry and what not. This happened at a place where there were hardly any people on the road. Veeru rode a little back where we had crossed a dhaba to check if there would be any trucks willing to carry my bike along with them until Leh. Most of the trucks were either fuel tankers and the rarely seen goods trucks were running on full load. After almost 2 hours of waiting and waiting, we managed to stop a truck carrying cement bags and pleaded him to take my bike along with the truck. Lifted the bike and put it inside and I got into the truck and sat beside the driver. First thing I asked him was do you have any water to drink. He gave me some water and he later started telling me that bikers should not take this route (Manali-Leh) as it is very dangerous. It was around 3pm when we started in the truck towards Leh which was around 120kilometers. Truck driver told me that we would reach Leh around 12pm. So it was 9 hours of journey for me in the truck. After crossing TangangLa we reached Rumptse at around 7 and finally reached Leh around 12 and got my bike down from the truck and managed to ride it with a completely bent handle until the hotel. It was such a relief that I just prayed to God and said Thank you. Kuldeep’s hadn’t reached Leh yet and he spent the entire night in the truck and came to the hotel next morning. Decided not to ride anywhere the next day and just stay at Leh and get our bikes repaired. 1st time in the trip went to sleep without having the thought that we have to wake up early Fixing the flat tire Freshly laid tarmac in the middle of barren land. Place where my bike's fork broke. This guy was a motivation for us, Day7: Leh: Had to wake up early in the morning to pick up Kuldeep and came back and slept again to wake up only at 12 noon. Went to the garage and left my bike for repair there and later we headed to the DC office to get our permits to visit Pangong Tso and Khardungla. Spent the rest of the evening roaming around Leh city. City of Leh Leh Palace Shanti Stupa These kids were more than happy to pose a pic for me Day8: Leh-Pangong Tso-Leh (312kilometers): Initial plans were to pitch up tents for overnight stay at Pangong, but as we had lost a day in getting our bikes repaired, we had plans to visit Pangong and come back to Leh the same night. Pangong is approx 170 from Leh, had just a cup of tea and started from Leh at 8 am. Since my bike was getting repaired, I rode with Vinay. There was a slight engine misfiring problem with Vinay's bike since we crossed Keylong. But today it was like continuously misfiring and the sound was like firing a rocket intermittently. We had to change the spark plug quite a lot of time. Stopped over at Karu as we had to submit our permit copies at the check post for our visit to Pangong. Officials told us that Pangong Tso is another 5 hours drive from here. One of the big challenges we would have today is to cross ChangLa (17590ft) which is the 3rd highest motorable road in the world. As we started climbing Changla, the roads were starting to get bad with plenty of water crossings. Once we got down from Changla the roads were too good and just plains. A board said from here you can get the first glance of the world famous Pangong Tso Lake. This was one of the roads I enjoyed riding. Reached Pangong at 2 30pm and we still hadn’t ate anything until now. But none cared for their hunger and there were big smiles, and ecstatic look on all our faces as everyone started posing for pictures, we also posed for the customary ‘thoofa kabool karo’ picture. We had got clear instructions from the Army people that we would have to cross Changla before 5 so as to avoid any untoward natural disasters. We decided to Leave from Pangong by 3 30pm so that we could cross Changla by 5. As it was getting late we decided that we would eat on the way and started riding back. It was a long ride back. Vinay's bike got struck in one of the water crossing and I got down and pushed the bike out. In the Process I had completed drenched my feet, my shoes and socks were completely wet. My feet went numb for a while, but regained sensation when I used the exhaust pipe to heat up my feet. Arrived at Karu at 8pm and that’s when we had the first meal of our day ‘aloo parathas’, it was such a relief. Reached Leh around 10pm had crashed. ChangLa PagongTso Taufa kabool karo Water crossing A video of water crossing captured by Aditya (one of the guys in other group). Day9: Leh-Hemis-leh: (90kilometers): There was a Lama festival going on at Hemis monastery, so we decided to and experience Lama’s festival. Hemis is approx 45 kilometers from Leh, so we finished Hemis and got back to Leh pretty early and went to do some shopping at Leh. Brought the trademark Leh tee’s which said ‘how I got Leh’d’ which had the complete map embroidered on it and ‘I was there, khardungla- 18380ft, World’s highest motorable road’. Hemis Monastery Day10: Leh-Khardungla-Leh (80kilometers): Woke up in the morning and everyone was super duper exited as today we would be conquering the world’s highest motorable road. Initial few kilometers of ride the roads were pretty okay and as we started to climb the roads got bad, but we had seen the worse of them and that didn’t stop us from getting ahead. Slowly one by one we all had conquered K-top (Khardungla top). Everyone of us posed with our machines beside the board that read Himak welcomes you to Khardung La, (18380ft/5602mt), World’s highest motorable road. After posing for the pictures we had a brief chat and some pictures with the army guys and later we headed back to Leh. On my way back, I was not able to slot the 3rd and the 4th gears. As I entered the city, I saw that all the shops were closed and so was the repair shop. Realized that it was a Sunday. After a lot of searching and asking the locals, I found a garage and got my bike repaired. K-Top Attachment 1059514 Rest of the tripping will continue in the next post. Last edited by Rehaan : 8th March 2013 at 15:02. Reason: Adding some paragraph breaks to ease readability! Thanks for sharing. |
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8th March 2013, 15:05 | #4 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Thane - Mumbai
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure I am sure you guy's had loads of fun riding on the highest motorable road. I just have a few questions to ask since I am planning for Leh-Ladakh around July 2013:
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9th March 2013, 11:22 | #5 |
BHPian Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Chennai
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure Most memorable 17 days in your life, i believe. Enjoying This thread AMG!! Am looking forward to be there soon with my buddies soon, but in a Swift |
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10th March 2013, 12:02 | #6 |
BHPian Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Bangalore
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure AMG_ang: Heard about this trip many times from Kuldeep. Nice to see the 'travelogued' version of it!! Great pictures and superb writing style. Thanks for sharing!!! |
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11th March 2013, 08:26 | #7 |
Distinguished - BHPian | Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure Some breath taking pictures there. The amount of fun the trip should have provided is really unimaginable. Thanks for sharing. |
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11th March 2013, 09:47 | #8 | ||
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Blr/Stuttgart
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure Quote:
Quote:
@sri2012 and @nkrishnap: Thank you. | ||
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11th March 2013, 10:52 | #9 |
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Blr/Stuttgart
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure The return journey continues below. Day11: Leh-Kargil (220kilometers): So the time had come that we start our return journey, and cover the rest half of the circle. Today we would be crossing Fotu La (13478ft) which is the highest point on Srinagar-Leh high way. On the way to Fotu La we were struck behind couple of trucks and our body weight had increased by at least 2 kilos because of the dust deposited on us by those trucks driving in front of us. Nevertheless the rest of the journey until Kargil was decent. At FotuLa On the way to FotuLa At one of the garage, spanners, burnt clutch plates and shoes with dried slush Day12: Kargil-Srinagar (200kilometers): Today we would be visiting one of the historic places in India, Drass-Kargil war memorial. An army jawan explained us how India was victorious at the war. A wall has all the names of the jawans etched on stone who sacrificed their lives for the nation. Heading towards Srinagar we had to stop midway for almost an hour to give way to some 150 odd army trucks convoy. By noon we reached Zozi La, it is supposed to be one of the most dangerous passes as the road is made up of loose soil and could cause a landslide. There was a small landslide and it was being cleared by army jawans and we had to wait for 4 hours until the roads were opened again. Riding down from Zozi La towards Sonamarg was like a picture perfect post card with snow capped mountains, green fields, river, small streams and roads lined with trees. We halted numerous times to take pictures. Kargil War memorial: Zozila: Day13: Srinagar-Udhampur (230kilometers): The route from Srinagar to Udhampur is very picturesque, nice curvy roads, greenery all along the road and snow clad mountains. Riding on this route was enjoyed to the core by everyone of us with neat bending along the curves. Dal Lake: Day14: Udhampur-Amritsar (228kilometers): This route was simple and not much of hassle. But as we started moving towards Amritsar we started to feel the scorching heat of the sun again. The road until Samba was decent, from Samba onwards it was 4 lane highways until Delhi. 60 kilometers before Amritsar, Vinay’s bike had a flat tire and to our luck it happened right in front of a puncture shop. Got the tire fixed quickly and we stopped at a dhaba, we enter Punjab and not stop for lunch at a Punjabi dhaba, no ways, we had a proper Punjabi istyle lunch at the dhaba, quenched our thirst with a glass full of lassi. Day15: Amritsar-Wagh border-Amritsar(80kilometers) Visited the Golden temple in the morning and had our lunch at the temple itself. The lunch is called as ‘langar’. The best part I liked about the temple is that every service offered at the temple is done by volunteers. None gets paid for their services; let it be preparing food or washing the vessels, cleaning the temple premises or handling the footwear of the devotees. Later visited the Jalianwala bagh, located close by to the temple. Looking into the well makes one feel sorry for the people who jumped into it and outraged against the autocracy of General Dyer who had ordered for the shootout of the people assembled for a peaceful protest. Later in the evening drove down till Wagh border, which is around 40 kilometers from Amritsar. When we reached there I didn't expect to see such a maddening rush of tourists, with barely any place to stand in the stands, we squeezed in and managing standing on one leg to watch the flag retreat parade. It was hot like an oven and so many people around you made the situation even worse with my shirt completely drenched in my sweat and also other peoples. Couldn't stand there until the parade was over, was eager to get back to the room and take shower and get all the dust and sweat off my body. Golden temple: Jallianwala Bagh: Wagh Border: Kuldeep's bike getting repaired in Amritsar:Took his bike to the garage in the evening at around 4pm. His bike had a problem with a worn out bush that connects the connecting rod to the crankshaft, the mechanic completely unbolted the engine got the parts to the lathe and refitted the engine by noon the next day. Hats off to that guy who did a fantastic job in such a short time. Day16: Amritsar-New Delhi (480kilometers): This day would be the longest day of our ride; we needed to ride 480 kilometers in a single day. Got late in Amritsar as Kuldeep’s bike had some engine problem and had to get it rectified before we could start. Could leave Amritsar only by 12 noon, just after Amritsar while waiting for Vinay, we met a Sardar who was very curious to know who we were and where all we were riding. He said to us that he was a Village Panchayat president and offered us some tea as well as to come to his village and stay at his place and leave to Delhi the next day. We were courteous only to accept his former offer and wished him good bye and started back after Vinay joined us. Just after Jalandar, Prashant’s bike had short circuited his bike electrical connections and we lost another 2 hours in getting it fixed. They had to completely redo the entire wiring for the bike. It was 8pm when we reached Ludhiana and we still had 325 kilometers to ride. The light was getting low but our spirits were high and were determined to ride safely to Delhi. Stopped for dinner around 11pm at a dhaba, and now refreshed after dinner we started riding again. With frequent stops for chai and some snacks we reached our hotel at Delhi by 5am in the morning. The moment we parked our bikes every one of us exchanged hi5’s and hugs and thanked everyone for making the trip a grand success. A modified Limo at one of the Dhaba near Ludhina: Food menu at one of the Dhaba: A special motor menu for the petrolheads Prashant's bike getting the electrical wiring fitted. Every day was a new beginning, with new milestones to be conquered with new challenges. Nevertheless, a memorable trip, a lifetimes experience had come to end only to begin with the thought of when we are doing this again |
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11th March 2013, 13:39 | #10 |
Senior - BHPian | Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure.
Mate, Out of curiosity was wondering why the tires were not fitted with Live Tire Protector. Probably that would have helped you save some time. Really pleased with your thread and narration, hats off to the mechanic who did the engine work in a span of just hours. Keep them rolling. |
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12th March 2013, 08:43 | #11 | |
BHPian Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Blr/Stuttgart
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| Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure. Quote:
First of all I was not aware of the existence of such a product for vehicles which run with tube inside the tire. Does it work in such cases also ? I had the same problem with my bike after I returned from the trip, and the mechanic here in Bangalore took good 3 months time to do the same job as the mechanic in Amritsar did it overnight . | |
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12th March 2013, 10:21 | #12 |
Senior - BHPian | Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure.
Yes Mate and they are available in X-Torque. Quite affordable if you were to ask me costing around 1200 INR for a set. Have added a video for your easy reference. <iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151353995495419" width="640" height="480" frameborder="0"></iframe> rk_Sans has used it on CBR and inspite of a puncture we were able to complete the road trip with filling in air only once. There was a minor loss of around 2-3 PSI. |
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The following BHPian Thanks ku69rd for this useful post: | AMG_ang |
13th March 2013, 14:32 | #13 |
BHPian Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Bangalore
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure This road trip is really Epic!!! hats off to all of you for undertaking a trip like this. Motivates me to get Leh'd very soon. |
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13th March 2013, 17:17 | #14 |
Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2009 Location: Atlanta, GA
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| Re: Epic road tripping! 3,000 kms of sheer riding pleasure Awesome ride and well narrated. Will check with you for some help as am planning to get Leh'd this year! |
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13th March 2013, 17:25 | #15 | |
Senior - BHPian | Re: Epic road tripping.! 3000 kms of sheer riding pleasure. Well narrated travelogue. Congrats on getting Leh'd. Its something you keep relishing it for years, specially when you do it on a bike. Quote:
Last edited by rk_sans : 13th March 2013 at 17:26. | |
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