[Fauji]

We were awestruck.

Words fail to describe the magnificence of Halebid. It should be seen and savoured.

Going to Halebid was a decision taken in a whiff on the last weekend. The plan was to drive very early in the morning on Sunday and capture the beauties of Halebid in camera in morning light. We wanted to spend three hours to get into minute details of the sculptures. We were doing this detailed exercise for the first time. Not rushing through this time.

We were going there after ten years.

We came back dumbfounded at the outstanding beauty of the sculptures not seen anywhere in the world. We had seen beautiful sculptures in Khajuraho. But, the details of Halebid in the state of Karnataka in South India is way beyond imagination. You wonder whether it is stone or wax. How can anyone reach such perfection?

As the famed historian and architect George Michell writes in the "Blue guide" on South India.

" The magnificence of these sculptures is "Unsurpassed" anywhere in the world"

How true. It is to be seen to be believed

The wonder of sculptures in Halebid was aptly summarised by KUVEMPU, the late poet laureate of Karnataka. A great poet of India, KUVEMPU as he was known, Dr K V Puttappa wrote thus in Kannada amazed at the wonders of Halebid.

ಬಾಗಿಲೊಳು ಕೈ ಮುಗಿದು
ಒಳಗೆ ಬಾ ಯಾತ್ರಿಕನೆ
ಶಿಲೆಯಲ್ಲವೀ ಗುಡಿಯು
ಕಲೆಯ ಬಲೆಯು!

Translating this in English - pardon my translation - will read like thus......

Oh thy traveller
step in with prayers on your lips
hands folded in reverence
for
this is just not a temple of stone
but a wonder of art!

Now, without wasting time, please have a feast for your eyes.........I could not resist to post these many pictures. They are just lovely.

Still there are many in the memory stick!

Let us start the pictorial journey with External images.....

The Temple complex as seen from the Museum



Nandi Mantapas on the eastern or main entrance. Nandi, the vehicle of Shiva is opposite each of Shiva shrines and are elaborately carved



The lovely exteriors of the temple. Notice the wide basement plinth on which the the temple stands. The basement is carved beautifully.







The main entrance with beautifully carved Dwarapalakas on either side of the door



A panoramic view of the eastern side of the temple with carved pillars and stone carvings



Wow! A beautiful capture of the wall



The Array of Shilabalikas captured.....aren't they lovely!



The Nandi Mantapa - Notice the beautiful pillars and symmetry of this pavilion



An array of Gods and Shilabalikas....



The sculptures on the outer walls.....just oustanding. No place is left unattended. Look closely at Ravana lifting Kailasa, Shiva - Parvti on Nandi and in the right hand corner the most beautiful of Shilabalikas and ultimate in stone sculpture. You will understand this when you see this sculpture later.





At the same time you have a detailed array of smaller but detailed sculptures on the plinth. The details on these arrays on the outer walls are just mind boggling .....it celebrates epics like Ramayana, Mahabharata, victories of Kings, weddings, festivals..........list is endless



Myriad figures on the pedestal of the temple











Scenes from Ramayana so nicely carved. Look at the array of arrows!!!







Beautiful carving on the lintel at the entrance of the temple



Another panel of great sculptures on the outer wall....Varaha, Narasimha, Trimurti.......





Beautifully carved Dwrapalakas at the main entrance



The sculptures are so delicately carved that only a piece of stone attaches them to the wall. look at the gap between the sculptures and the wall

[Fauji]

Now let us take a close look at the individual sculptures. Notice the minute details that has gone into carving these magnificent sculptures......

Let us start with our beloved Ganesha, Vignahara




Now it is his dad's turn.....Lord Shiva. Notice the beads in his hand!!



Shiva takes dancing pose.....Notice Brahma and Vishnu on the either side



Even the pillar posts are decorated with dancing maidens or Madanikas



Dwarapalakas





Lord Krishna......Muralidhara!!



Sun god or Lord Surya......driven by seven horses at the bottom!!



Shilabalikas under foliage. Notice beautifully sculpted robes of theirs!!



Lord Krishna again......Govardhana Giridhari!! Notice the details of Govardhana Mountain!!



Lord Vishnu as Varaha....rescuing Bhodevi...



Lord Shiva in dancing pose



Garuda.....notice the wings!!



Lord Vishnu as Narasimha killing Hiranya Kashapu



Shilabalika looking at the mirror



A drummer - notice the strings of the drum.....so delicately carved!



Lord Shiva with Parvati



Lord Shiva again



Trimurti - Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara



Lord Vishnu as Trivikrama in Vamana Avatar



Madanika or Dancing girl under Foliage.......can anything be more beautiful and complete than this!!!!!



Garuda again....eloping with Naga Kanya??



Lord Vishnu with Adishesha in the backdrop.



A voluptuous Shilabalika in Nude form with thunder thighs!! I am not clear why she is chained at legs by a serpent? And the serpent goes all the way to the top on to her right shoulder!!



Lord Brahma with his trademark Beard!!



Is this Shiva again?



Is this Saraswathi?



This is another sculpture at its best. Notice the robe of shilabalika above her knees. So delicately carved that it is separated from the main sculpture which gives a feeling as if she is actually wearing a dress. A masterpiece!!



Dwrapalakas or ashta Dikpalakas in front of Hoysaleswra shrine. A delicate sculpture in black granite.



Close up of the intricate carving. Notice the small skulls carved into the sculpture.....

[Fauji]

Ravana Lifting Kailasa mountain......so much of details....Notice Shiva - Parvati sitting on Nandi on top of the mountain



A rare sculpture of a Jain monk



The interior corridor of the temple with chiseled pillars. The precision of the carvings of pillars is just outstanding







This was the biggest surprise for us. We never expected to see erotic sculptures in Halebid. These are subtle and hidden. the historians and archeologists note that " Erotica was a subject the Hoysala artist handled with discretion. There is no exhibitionism in this, and erotic themes were carved into recesses and niches, generally miniature in form, making them inconspicuous. These erotic representations are often associated with the Shakta practice."

Take a look at these....





After three hours of exploration, it was time to have breakfast and we did not mind driving to the famous "Town Canteen" in Chikamagalur for Benne Masale Dose - Butter Masala Dosa!!

It was morning well spent indeed.

Travel Tips

Getting there

Halebid is at a distance of 220 KMs from Bangalore and 185 KMs from Mangalore.

By Air - Though nearest airport is Mangalore, Bangalore is a convenient hub with better connectivity.

By Bus - There are numerous buses plying between Bangalore and Hassan. Halebid is 40 KMs from Hassan and there are frequent buses from Hassan. There are few direct buses to Halebid from Bangalore as well.

By Road - Best option. The road between Bangalore - Hassan has improved and you have a four lane highway for 60% of the distance. The remaining part is being done but the road condition is very good till Hassan and beyond till Halebid. Suggest take the Belur road to reach Halebid rather than the direct one from Hassan.

By Train - Not recommended unless you are a die hard fan of train. You can take Bangalore - Mangalore trains from Bangalore and then take bus from Hassan.

Stay Options

The nearest stay option is Hoysala Village resort. But there are good options in Haasan and Chikmagalur. Halebid can be comfortably explored making either Hassan or Chikmagalur as base.

Other Information

a) Invest at least three hours to explore Halebid.

b) There are few guides available at the entrance to temple who can be helpful. They charge Rs 300. But please go beyond what the guides tell and show and explore Halebid on your own. You will not regret it.

c) If you are keen on Photography, go there early. The early morning sunlight lights up the eastern part of the temple beautifully which helps take nice pictures.

d) There are few eating places in Halebid. If you are hungry, these are the only option.

e) The small shops in Halebid sell excellent bananas. Try it.

f) The museum has some excellent exhibits and entrance fee is Rs 10. Go for it.

g) There is a small lake next to the heritage site which has boating facilities. If you want to have a boat ride, you have a chance here.

h) Don't forget to visit the Jain temple and Kedareshwara temple which is close to main site.

i) Halebid can be comfortably combined with a visit to other excellent Hoysala temples Belur and Belavadi.

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[roamingrao]

Fauji Sir,

Artistically taken photographs, detailing intricate aspects of the carvings. Thank you for sharing.

Enjoyed noticing a squirrel on the jagati in one of the photographs.



Source : Gazette Of Mysore

Halebid. — A village in the Belur taluq, The village of halebidu old capital, marks the site of the ancient city of Dorasamudra, Dvdrasamudra or Dvdrivatipura, the wealthy capital of the Hoysala kings, founded early in the nth century. The city was taken by the Muhammadan general Kafur in 13 10, and plundered of immense wealth. In 1326 another Muhammadan army carried off what remained, and totally destroyed the city. The fallen king, after this event, took up his residence first at Tondanur (Tonnur, Mysore District), and then at other places far to the east of his dominions in the Tamil country.

The splendour of the city is attested not only by the account of the fabulous riches obtained from its conquest, as related by Muhammadan historians, but by its architectural monuments, which still rank among the masterpieces of Hindu art. The most remarkable of these are the Hoysa]esvara and Keddresvara temples.^ The latter was the smaller, and a gem of art But a banyan-tree, which had rooted itself in the vimdna or tower over the sanctum, dislodged the stones, and many of the figures thrust out of the walls have been removed to the Museum in Bangalore. The large Hoysalesvara temple, though never completed, is in better preservation. The marvellous elaboration of ornamental sculpture round the walls, and the general architectural effect, have elicited from the highest authority

By Road - Best option. The road between Bangalore - Hassan has improved and you have a four lane highway for 60% of the distance.

The other equidistant option is Bangalore - Arsikere - Banavara - Javagal - Halebid. Yes, the Banavara - Javagal - Halebid stretch is good and scenic

Halebid can be comfortably combined with a visit to other excellent Hoysala temples Belur and Belavadi.

One such little known temple with Hoysala style architecture worth visiting is at Javagal. ( 17 kms from Halebidu ). Sri Laksminarasimha temple. Javagal is also famous for Talc and Slate deposits and of course, the native village of 'Mysore express'

[Fauji]

Originally Posted by roamingrao

Fauji Sir,

Artistically taken photographs, detailing intricate aspects of the carvings. Thank you for sharing.

The other equidistant option is Bangalore - Arsikere - Banavara - Javagal - Halebid. Yes, the Banavara - Javagal - Halebid stretch is good and scenic

One such little known temple with Hoysala style architecture worth visiting is at Javagal. ( 17 kms from Halebidu ). Sri Laksminarasimha temple. Javagal is also famous for Talc and Slate deposits and of course, the native village of 'Mysore express'

Thanks Ashok. Credit for Photographs should go to my wife who is the official photographer on all our trips!!

Yes, i also heard that the road via Banavara is supposed to be very picturesque and condition is very good too. There are so many Hoysala temples in Hassan district and all of them are beautiful. Javagal is the next stop for us to explore.

[parsh]

Fauji sir, what stupendous captures of the history bygone. As you say your better half is mostly responsible for many captures, hats off to her on capturing intricate details.

Originally Posted by Fauji

This was the biggest surprise for us. We never expected to see erotic sculptures in Halebid. These are subtle and hidden.

Its time now for you to visit Khajuraho and other such temple sites and see for self how has been unabashedly laid out in open in the carvings and that too on the outer walls of the temples and not inner. But one does need eyes to capture all those bare carvings. They do seem to have a very free learned culture that times without any hiding. What a civilization it has been.

[mazda4life]

"'A voluptuous Shilabalika in Nude form with thunder thighs!! I am not clear why she is chained at legs by a serpent? And the serpent goes all the way to the top on to her right shoulder!!''

It might be the rendering of a 'vishya kanya' , luring enemies by her charm and thunder thighs towards an inevitable death or destruction.

thanks for the wonderful pictures and an my son is still poring each one of the pictures and is remembering the time when we had gone there.

[Chillout]

Yet another brilliant travelogue from Fauji I have never been to Halebid, but have always been awestruck with the brilliant architecture and carvings. Your earlier travelogue helped me convince my family to make a trip to Red Hills and boy we had an excellent trip. Now this travelogue should make it easy for me to take a trip to Halebid and Belur

[SKavuri]

Hello Fauji,

You seem to have had a fantastic trip and taken fabulous pictures!

Temple sculpture is my favourite subject too (my visits include Ramappa and thousand pillar Temples at Warangal, Khajuraho, Brihadeeswara Temple at Tanjore and recently Angkor-Wat in Cambodia).
A Sample of my pictures can be seen at : http://www.flickr.com/photos/kasi67/

I am eager to see Hoysala architecture for a long time.

I would be happy if you could help me with some information:
- Is Belur equally good and worth visiting?
- Can we cover the popular circuit of Belur-Halebid-Sravanabelagola, starting from Bengaluru early in the morning and return by dinner, including breaks for breakfast, lunch, etc? If really tight, I would skip Srvanabelagola.
- Where do the buses to Hassan start from? Are there buses from near Airport or Railway station?
- Any suggestions for stay at Hassan or Chikmagalur?

Thank you very much.

[raghunandanj]

Originally Posted by SKavuri

Hello Fauji,

You seem to have had a fantastic trip and taken fabulous pictures!

Temple sculpture is my favourite subject too (my visits include Ramappa and thousand pillar Temples at Warangal, Khajuraho, Brihadeeswara Temple at Tanjore and recently Angkor-Wat in Cambodia).
A Sample of my pictures can be seen at : http://www.flickr.com/photos/kasi67/

I am eager to see Hoysala architecture for a long time.

I would be happy if you could help me with some information:
- Is Belur equally good and worth visiting?
- Can we cover the popular circuit of Belur-Halebid-Sravanabelagola, starting from Bengaluru early in the morning and return by dinner, including breaks for breakfast, lunch, etc? If really tight, I would skip Srvanabelagola.
- Where do the buses to Hassan start from? Are there buses from near Airport or Railway station?
- Any suggestions for stay at Hassan or Chikmagalur?

Thank you very much.

Here are the answers to your questions :

- Is Belur equally good and worth visiting?
Without second thought. Belur and Halebid are the crown jewels of Hoysala architecture and the adjective "amazing" would be an understatement.

Can we cover the popular circuit of Belur-Halebid-Sravanabelagola, starting from Bengaluru early in the morning and return by dinner, including breaks for breakfast, lunch, etc?
Yes you can, provided you start early and clear the Bangalore periphery soon before the traffic builds up. The roads are all fantastic and you can make it to all three places in a day. However, these places have so much in them that you cannot do justice by seeing all in a day ! You need your own vehicle for this, or just take the conducted tour offered by KSTDC.

- Where do the buses to Hassan start from? Are there buses from near Airport or Railway station?
Buses to Hassan start from the city center bus station, which is opposite to the main railway station.

- Any suggestions for stay at Hassan or Chikmagalur?
Many hotels line the BH Road in Hassan., but it is next to impossible to get a lodging on Saturday evenings, so plan in advance.

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by Fauji

There are so many Hoysala temples in Hassan district and all of them are beautiful. Javagal is the next stop for us to explore.

Poorna Sir,
Have been to Belur/Halebid many a times but your travelogues project them in an entirely different manner. Your writing skills are simply too good.

Am eagerly watching for your next trips to Banavara & Javagal. Have heard that they are worth a visit but with a lot of motorcycling trips being lined up these would have to wait till the monsoon season.
Rating this as a well deserved 5 Star thread.

[Fauji]

Originally Posted by parsh

Fauji sir, what stupendous captures of the history bygone. As you say your better half is mostly responsible for many captures, hats off to her on capturing intricate details.




Its time now for you to visit Khajuraho and other such temple sites and see for self how has been unabashedly laid out in open in the carvings and that too on the outer walls of the temples and not inner. But one does need eyes to capture all those bare carvings. They do seem to have a very free learned culture that times without any hiding. What a civilization it has been.

Thanks Parsh. We went Khajuraho and it was an amazing experience. It was captured in this long TL in this link. Please take a look

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...r-pradesh.html

The sculptors in Khajuraho again were from South India especially from later Chalukyan kingdoms known as Kalyani Chalukyas.

Originally Posted by mazda4life

"'A voluptuous Shilabalika in Nude form with thunder thighs!! I am not clear why she is chained at legs by a serpent? And the serpent goes all the way to the top on to her right shoulder!!''

It might be the rendering of a 'vishya kanya' , luring enemies by her charm and thunder thighs towards an inevitable death or destruction.

thanks for the wonderful pictures and an my son is still poring each one of the pictures and is remembering the time when we had gone there.

Thanks Mazda4life. May be you are right. But it was a surprise element in this array of lovely sculptures.

Originally Posted by Chillout

Yet another brilliant travelogue from Fauji I have never been to Halebid, but have always been awestruck with the brilliant architecture and carvings. Your earlier travelogue helped me convince my family to make a trip to Red Hills and boy we had an excellent trip. Now this travelogue should make it easy for me to take a trip to Halebid and Belur

Most welcome sir. You should visit these places. They are marvelous.

Originally Posted by SKavuri

Hello Fauji,

You seem to have had a fantastic trip and taken fabulous pictures!

Temple sculpture is my favourite subject too (my visits include Ramappa and thousand pillar Temples at Warangal, Khajuraho, Brihadeeswara Temple at Tanjore and recently Angkor-Wat in Cambodia).
A Sample of my pictures can be seen at : http://www.flickr.com/photos/kasi67/

I am eager to see Hoysala architecture for a long time.

I would be happy if you could help me with some information:
- Is Belur equally good and worth visiting?
- Can we cover the popular circuit of Belur-Halebid-Sravanabelagola, starting from Bengaluru early in the morning and return by dinner, including breaks for breakfast, lunch, etc? If really tight, I would skip Srvanabelagola.
- Where do the buses to Hassan start from? Are there buses from near Airport or Railway station?
- Any suggestions for stay at Hassan or Chikmagalur?

Thank you very much.

Thank you sir. Raghunandan has already made my life easy with detailed answer. If you need any further information you can PM me or call me on 98450 44486.

Originally Posted by raghunandanj

Here are the answers to your questions :

- Is Belur equally good and worth visiting?
Without second thought. Belur and Halebid are the crown jewels of Hoysala architecture and the adjective "amazing" would be an understatement.

Can we cover the popular circuit of Belur-Halebid-Sravanabelagola, starting from Bengaluru early in the morning and return by dinner, including breaks for breakfast, lunch, etc?
Yes you can, provided you start early and clear the Bangalore periphery soon before the traffic builds up. The roads are all fantastic and you can make it to all three places in a day. However, these places have so much in them that you cannot do justice by seeing all in a day ! You need your own vehicle for this, or just take the conducted tour offered by KSTDC.

- Where do the buses to Hassan start from? Are there buses from near Airport or Railway station?
Buses to Hassan start from the city center bus station, which is opposite to the main railway station.

- Any suggestions for stay at Hassan or Chikmagalur?
Many hotels line the BH Road in Hassan., but it is next to impossible to get a lodging on Saturday evenings, so plan in advance.

Thanks Raghu. You made my life easy

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Poorna Sir,
Have been to Belur/Halebid many a times but your travelogues project them in an entirely different manner. Your writing skills are simply too good.

Am eagerly watching for your next trips to Banavara & Javagal. Have heard that they are worth a visit but with a lot of motorcycling trips being lined up these would have to wait till the monsoon season.
Rating this as a well deserved 5 Star thread.

Thanks Mahesh. Yes, there are at least 30 temples in Hassan district. Need to cover them.

[DieselDestiny]

Beautiful pictures Poorna. Takes me back to the 4 years that I spent with the shilabalikas in Halebeedu and Belur.
Not sure if you took a guide around in the tour, it is worthwhile listening to the details on the sculptures and why they are located where there are. For instance, the rows of elephants that you see around the temple outer structure signify strong foundation, the horses of speed, the lions of strength and so on.
If I remember correctly, the jain monk you have showns is a foreigner wearing a gown.

[anand_hc]

Nice photographs. I had been to Belur & Halebedu 2 months back. Your photos make me feel the one I had been to was a different place.

There is so much history & architecture at both these places.

Struggle & wonder at same time, why state government can not provide better roads to these architectural wonders. It's a shame.