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Thanks brother. Will make a visit when I am that side of town next. Also awaiting a response from Sam.

Hello All,

My 2019 CRDe is approaching 1 Lakh kms in sometime, have a long haul up the mountains planned in couple of months.

Wanted advice from fellow CRDe owners on the mandatory checks, repairs and preventive maintenance to be done for 1 Lakh kms. Mine is maintained regularly and is mechanically in top notch condition. However, since, 1 Lakh kms is a major milestone hence, the question.

Cheers and Happy Jeeping !!

Hello Abhik after a long time. Good to see your Thar700 clocking 1 lakh milestone. Mine had already crossed it in 2023 and sharing my list which is nothing but regular maintenance. These CRDe vehicles are built to "Toyota" quality and nothing happens to it :)

I would do below at 1 lakh:
1. Brake oil change (no topping up) - DOT3. Bleeding will be needed.
2. Clutch oil change (no topping up) - DOT3. Bleeding will be needed.
3. Engine oil change with Filter - Maximile FEO.
4. Transmission oil change - Maximile Syntec F2.
5. Rear Axle oil change - Maximile Elite.
6. Fuel Filter change.
7. Check Air Filter- Change only if necessary or done 30,000kms after last replacement.
8. Transfer case oil change - Maximile GO Synchro 80W-90.
9. Remove the front locking Hubs and fill Power steering oil in the hubs for 15 minutes. Drain the oil and refit with silicone sealant to seal out water. Do not apply grease anywhere.
10. Replace the V-belt and alternator belt.
11. Flush coolant if not done since last 2 years.

Happy Motoring

abhikb
being an owner two different kind of SUVs, already knows the major service works and tips like fluid change etc.

My suggestions:

(1) Visual Inspection
1. Get beneath the jeep and inspect yourself for any oil seepage near crank pully area & turbo oil inlet/ outlet.
2. Any oil seepage in head gasket area, oil cooler area etc.

(2) Minor but important things (Rubber tubes)
1. Condition of brake vacuum tube.
2. There are some rubber pipe tubes: 1. Vacuum pump to reservoir, 2. Reservoir to air filter, 3. Reservoir to modulator, 4. Reservoir to EGR. Check out the health of these tubes and if necessary, replace them. Any rupture in a single tube will cause weak brakes because of vacuum leak.



3. Fuel return pipes (between injectors) are also made of same type of rubber. Do same for that.


4. Power steering hose(s).
5. Silencer mountings rubbers.

(3) Repair Kits
1. I often watch youtube travelogue to mountains. In a recent video a there was a 2nd generation thar had rear wheel brake cylinder failure. If easy possible, procure a ‘rear wheel Brake cylinder repair kit’.
2. + Your list

(4) Important Checks
1. There are two Ball Joints (wheel joint in mechanic language). Since your jeep is 90k+ kms old, check out the condition some expert mechanic. In old generation Boleros these joins are prone to brake suddenly and vehicle get stuck at ’as it is where it is condition’.





2. Secondary belt condition.

(5) Spares to carry
1. Radiator outlet hose (lower one).
2. + Your list

(6) General Maintenance
1. Grease the Propeller shaft (if nipples are there).

Don’t dos
If vehicle is running fine do not flush anything (engine or cooling system), this may trouble to smoke from exhaust. If you are using FEO/ 5w 30 oil continue with it and do not upgrade to 15w 40.

Thanks KKVaidya and .(Alok) for your inputs,

Need pointers on whether go for a clutch overhaul, it hasn't been opened yet and is running without any issues (smooth as butter and no squeaking noise) yet,

Secondly, the what is the life of water pump?

Last question is whether get the EGR Cleaned once (Hasn't been done yet)?

Thanks

All these full & detailed service activities are good and to be perform before going a long trip but I always doubt on mechanic’s workmanship.
Just imagine you get the cooling system flushed and a hose on one get overtightened/ loose or experiencing a thermostat packing issue. If anything like this happened within city limits/ plane area then the things can be managed but in HIMALAYS this may bother anyone.

Replacing the aged fluid is good but I do not suggest any circuit overhaul before going a long trip. if you want to do so, run the car within city limits for 1 month/ 1000-1500 kms after any overhaul.

When there is no problem and it is functioning perfectly (butter smooth), why to open unnecessarily! At this age (90k+) slave cylinder may be a notorious part but again nobody can say when it will fail. It can fail today evening or may serve for next five years. There are several things like that like thermostat, oil cooler, clutch release bearing etc. which cannot be checked by eyes or by any procedure. If the jeep is performing good do not worry. Simply change the fluid, bleed and you are good to go. Do not open anything.

Check for any play (an experienced mechanic can do it).

If your will start these things, operations may be extended further. If there is no black some & no loss of pick up, do not open anything. Although 90k+ is sufficient life to clean EGR system but do it after return.

I am still running the original clutch and do not see any problems. More depends on your driving style and how much abuse the clutch has taken. If the bite is perfect and no drag, you are good to go.
I have not cleaned EGR yet. Did not see the need to.

Spot on :thumbs up

I have a question about the sound system. What have you guys done about this? The doors do no justice to any speaker in there. Damping? Does it work? Did you put an amp? A sub? Looking forward to inputs...

I have 6" round speakers installed on the B pillar Inside near the seat back rest. To be honest, I have stopped listening to the audio system in my Thar as I have still retained the Original Soft Top and you can barely hear the audio especially at speeds above 80kmph.

My friends gifted me an audio system, Pioneer HU and two 6.5Inch Ovals, they are placed behind the front seats. There is space for a pair of 4 Inch coaxials or components in the front door pads, I have not bothered with it yet.

CRDe is not stereo ready - unlike cars of its era where there will be wiring and radio antenna connection, power connector, signal wire for ACC mode etc. None of this is there in CRDe (according to the boy) so the 14 year old should be fairly competent to make sure the stereo turns off once the key is out. Fit a really powerful (cheap as well) amp to drive the components on front door as well as other speakers in the back, add a subwoofer as well, you will be able to crank up the volume once you reach highway speeds.

Our vehicle spends the winter topless \ bikini top, with the occasional rains and splashing of water the stereo as well as speakers have survived without any problems. It is a soft top so like KKVaidya has mentioned, there is just you and the wind once you reach highway speeds in my set up with only the HU powering the speakers.

About music quality, you can hear it in the city runs and slow country roads pretty well and usually used by my daughter who listens to really heavy metal type stuff, so it all blends in well.

For longer drives that are usually solo, I used to use a pair of earphones mostly as ear protection from the wind noise, its quite a bit with soft top once you are doing triple digit speeds.

CRDe is not meant for this stuff brother, no matter what you do it won’t give you the result as that of a regular car.

I have installed Sony XAV5000 HU and JBL 4 way coaxial speakers at the back.

Does anyone have a list of greasing and lubrication points for the Thar CRDE (propeller shaft etc)? Like an SOP?

Here's what we were upto this weekend

https://youtube.com/shorts/Gk8RNx72m...CZBBXUHd-Jq4B8

Will need some breather pipes installed before the monsoons!

Carrying a load of almost 600 kgs in passenger weight downhill on a pretty tough, rocky, gnarly track...

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZUUPtnfRC...Teh1G4z1zKtIPY

I do not think a new gen Thar 3D owner will attempt this by any stretch of imagination. The co driver is a new gen owner and he kept shaking his head all the way down...

The front and rear wheel bearings need greasing every 50,000 kms. And the front locking hubs need power steering lube oil every 40,000kms. Other then that I do not see any greasing nipples anywhere.

Only the guys upfront would have enjoyed this downhill drive. The crew at back would be swearing all the waylol:

You can extend the stock breather pipes if needed but otherwise for this sort of driving, the stock breathers are plenty enough.

I personally do not like to take my vehicles into water crossings unless there is absolutely no way around it, its something best left for dedicated offroad rigs.

For everyday slush & muddy water, just parking in the vehicle overnight in a dry cement floor is enough.